gorasinski

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<p>Surprisingly enough f/2.8 is not as fast as people might think.<br>

I would keep what you have and get some really fast primes, like 30/1.4 from Sigma, and 85/1.8 from Canon.</p>

<p>I second what Rainer T said.<br>

For bird photography it might be better to go for 50D, as you will be cropping images alot.</p>

<p>1. Canon will maintain its price better, should you wish to sell it.<br /> 2. Tamron may be hunting for focus, Canon much faster and more reliable when it comes to focus.<br /> 3. IS.<br /> 4. Image quality, probably slightly better on Canon.</p>

<p>I am gobsmacked that everyone seems to mention Canon 35mm/2, but forgets about Sigma 30mm/1.4 which is much better.</p>

<p>Very nice, it is a shame you did not have the Sigma to compare to the others.<br>

I would be very interested in a good Sigma test.</p>

<p>You will not go wrong with either of those cameras. What you need to know is the lens you are going to use, whether you need wider aspect or you do not really need it.</p>

<p>I would go for 5D if I were you, as it is slightly better in low light conditions and has less noise in high ISO.</p>

<p>Mind you I am using 40D.</p>

<p>Always AWB, but I shoot RAW, so no need to worry here.</p>

<p>As above, you need to be up to date, as your software is outdated and does not support newer cameras. Software developers can not predict what cameras will be released and the User needs to follow the market to be up-to-date.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Is there any way to tell which pins do what? I bent a pin in the middle, and while it was touching another pin, the camera wouldn't work. Once I removed it (an attempt to straighten it failed, and I snapped it off instead) the camera seems to work fine.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Here is a pinout for a CF card, so the pins are the other way round if you look at pins rather then holes. <a href="http://pinouts.ru/Memory/CompactFlash_pinout.shtml#VCC">A link...</a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos5Dmarkii/">Finally, long awaited test of that camera on DPreview.</a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/tamron_10-24_3p5-5p6_n15/">Just posted on DPreview, a test of the above Tamron lens.</a></p>

<p>What do you think, a good competition for Canon?</p>

<p>Because "Cash is King"?</p>

<p>Everyone is doing the updates, all instructions are<a href="http://web.canon.jp/imaging/eosd/firm-e/eos5dmk2/firmware.html"> here</a> .<br>

It is very easy.</p>

<p>Nikon 14-24 f/2.8<br /> and<br /> Leica Noctilux 50mm f/0.95</p>

<p>:)<br>

EDIT: Sorry did not read the topic to the end :)</p>

<p>zoom: 70-200 2.8 IS<br>

macro: 100 macro</p>

<p>To Al:<br>

I think it is beacuse they ove Canon so much and can not get it right, so it looks good compared to D700 ;)</p>

<p>Have you ever had eye drops applied? Well, if you did then you probably remember that they open your pupil wide open and you could not see sharply in daylight, only at night.<br>

However, if you create a little tiny hole with your fingers and put it aginst your eye, the sharpness drastically improves, but the image becomes darker.<br>

This is the best example when trying to explain what do those f numbers do :)<br>

This is exactly how cameras work.</p>

<p>Finally, to those who did not believe :)</p>

<p>If you are planning to move to FF in near future, the best choice would be either 17-40, or 16-35 from Canon.<br>

The lenses you mentioned are not designed to work with Full Frame.</p>

<p>Stick to 17-55, that is an incredible lens! Make sure you are using hood and UV protective filter when in sandy conditions, and you will not go wrong...<br>

To be honest you will not gain anything, or at least not much by going to L from what you have got, apart from 70-200 - go for that!</p>

<p>Guys and Galls,<br>

Thank you very much for all your comments and great tips. All I need to do now is to wait for the weather again (UK I am afraid) and shoot.</p>

<p>Take care...</p>

<p>Did you actually ask your wife, how does she feel about you running around her with either still's camera or video camera? I do not think my girfriend would feel comfortable at all.</p>

<p>What I meant was that Canon cameras when set to AWB will not get good results under incandescent lighting. As proven in every single test of Canon Gear on Dpreview.<br>

Sorry, if I was not clear enough.</p>

<p>Canon is notorious with its incandescent lighting WB. The only solution here is to shoot RAW and adjust it in post processing. It always works (well, almost ;)).</p>

<p>Hi All,</p>

<p>Please excuse my ignorancem, but I am just loosing it slowly.<br>

After reading articles on-line about the difficulties of such situations I am getting no further. I was getting very different results with my 40D +17-55 on a bright day with the person in shade and bright background. I was trying to get a good photo with built in flash and without with different results, never fully satisfactory. I tried Evaluative" metering mode, as well as "Spot" with no success.</p>

<p>Can someone explain to me how to get the best of my camera? I tried locking exposure with "*" button, but I think I might have been doing something wrong. Tell me please how to get a good exposure in such tricky conditions, do I aim with my centre point in VF onto shady object (burned skies), or onto bright object (nice blue sky) and fill with underexposed flash? How technically do I lock the exposure please.</p>

<p>How to get good results. And yes, I do know that there is no "golden rule".</p>

<p>Thank you.</p>