dana_bartholomew

<p>I have good results for Tri-X at E.I. 320 and processfor 5.5 mins. at 68* in HC-110 B, mixed straight from the syrup.</p>

<p>You might consider a new Fujifilm GF670 folder. I'm very happy with mine.</p>

<p>I've had very good results using the Epson software. I have Vuescan but don't like it because it doesn't have a Tri-X mode (and the other choices don't work very well). I don't even mind the cheap plastic holder. </p>

<p>Some more info on the GF670 accessories, including the smaller filter-and-hood attachment, here: <a href="http://www.fujifilmusa.com/products/professional_photography/film/gf670/index.html#accessories">http://www.fujifilmusa.com/products/professional_photography/film/gf670/index.html#accessories</a><br>

It takes a standard 58 mm filter, but you must remove it to shut the bellows.</p>

<p>Don, many thanks for the compliment. Roman, I agree: the GF670-wide may be over-the-top pricewise. I also can't imagine lugging around two larger cameras. For me, it's about light: camera over the shoulder, filter, cloth, and Tri-X in the pocket. No bag. No extra lenses. Compose with your feet. Work with what you've got. The Rolliecord is also light, too, but a TLR may be a whole other discussion.<br>

I have a Pentax 6X7 with three lenses I once lugged across Devil's Racetrack in Death Valley. You can't imagine the weight of that medium format tank.</p>

<p>I have a GF670. Much different from my Rolleicord. Like any camera, but especially MF, focus is critical. As much as I've used it, I sometimes blow shots wide open. I've found there's a knack to rangefinders, which may take more than a few walks around the block to master. That said, I think the Fuji is well worth it -- it's compact, light, has ap priority, and can switch from 6X6 to 6X7 between rolls. A very cool tool.<br>

Buy it. Then if you don't care for it, I think the resale is high enough you'd get much of your investment back.<br>

I took my GF670 to Italy and ran around 50 rolls through it. Great travel camera. Here are a few, shot there and at home:<br>

GF670, Tri-X, HC-110<br>

<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7168/6511354045_5aa29f33a9_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="519" /></p>

<p><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7027/6511354053_2a32846d0e_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="553" /></p>

<p><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7026/6511273341_bd9434474a_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="520" /></p>

<p>Shot last week:<br>

<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7111/7590472826_1c872ea810_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="499" /></p>

<p>Shot last week:<br>

<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7275/7590501586_305a89c93f_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="518" /></p>

<p>One more:<br>

<img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8022/7533207784_5266b2bae3_c.jpg" alt="" width="638" height="800" /></p>

<p>I must respectfully disagree with some of the comments here. Though it's been a couple of years since I shot my Holga S (the original cheapee light sieve), I found that Tri-X souped in D76 gave a sufficiently contrasty image. I'll include a few frames, which have been *very* mildly tweaked for contrast in Picasa (in the spirit of Holga, a free download from Google):<br>

<img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8004/7533032076_0de9d6ebd9_c.jpg" alt="" width="599" height="800" /></p>

<p><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8145/7533032356_0437bed051_c.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="631" /></p>

<p><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8152/7533035858_bea9093d21_c.jpg" alt="" width="628" height="800" /></p>

<p><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8008/7533036122_423cfc1468_c.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="627" /></p>

<p>Get both> the Fuji Gf670, the new folder which allows you to switch back and forth. The camera, with ap priority if needed, takes excellent shots. It's f3.5 lens may be a half-stop slower, but you can shoot at a steady 1/15. I've got one. It has served me well. </p>

<p>I have a Fuji GF670, which I took on a trip to Europe. A very handy, versatile, and portable rangefinder, with one of the best viewfinders ever. I also have a Rolleicord Vb, and a Pentax 6X7, with three lenses, of which the favorite is the Rollei. The downside, actually, is choice. It's best, I think, to know one camera system REALLY REALLY well, to become one with the machine. <br>

But the glass always looks greener in someone else's camera bag. Keep the Hasselblad. </p>

<p>I've been developing HC-110 at 5 mins., and getting thin negs. I'm going to up the development time to 6 mins. As for the stock B solution, I've had a half-filled container for a couple of months. I understand it only lasts a month. I may have to toss it out, then proceed to the syringe syrup direct-mix method.</p>

<p>OM2n 100/2.8 Tri-X<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7127/7145795093_edff46cae0_c.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="531" /></p>

<p>Rolleicord Vb Xenar 75mm f/3.5 Tri-X<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6773347726_90f4b8a326_z.jpg" alt="" width="638" height="640" /></p>

<p>Snobbish, if you ask me. It's like the Porsche people not wanting to park next to VWs. </p>

<p><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6773347726_90f4b8a326_z.jpg" alt="" width="638" height="640" /><br>

Columns, Woodland Hills, CA Rolleicord Vb, Tri-X, HC-110</p>

<p>You want beef? Go for a Pentax 6X7. Good glass in a variety of lenses. Built like a tank. And now very reasonable. You want lightweight beauty? Go for a Rolleiflex or 'cord. Fantastic lenses, with a variety of diopter and other accessories. You can even shoot at eye-level in "sport" mode. The Fuji rangefinders also make for great street shots. There are a great many affordable MF cameras.</p>

<p>I needed F4 grunt, because my Nikkormat Ft-3 lacked firepower.</p><div></div>

<p>Not sure I had enough firepower for this one, with my Nikkormat FT-3.</p>

<p>Keep it simple. And same, same, same. Same film. Same chemicals. Same format. That way, you lessen all the variables, for easier trouble shooting (E.g. Tri-X, D-76 1:1, rapid fix, water for stop bath, etc.). While in the dark, keep the tank, covers, spools, scissors, and can opener in the same spot. In the light, keep the developer and fixer jugs in the same spot, with a tea towel set out for your tools. Oh ... and buy a GraLab timer -- ain't nothin' like watching that second hand go 'round. Good luck.</p>

<p>Michael, Interesting. You've cut 1 1/4 minutes from the normal dev time for Tri-X and D-76 1:1 (9 3/4). Photo looks great (though I agree with some: a yellow filter would make for more pop. I never take mine off outside).</p>

<p>I use a yellow filter full-time, no compensation with Tri-X, on my Rolleicord Vb. Be sure to get the Bay 1 Rollei hood, which is very easy to take on and off over the filter. Also, many recommend not using a tripod with the Rollei, as it attaches to the L-shaped door, which can be weak. If that becomes tweaked, major fix. As someone else said, color. I would toss a couple rolls of Fujichrome Velvia (remember, meter for highlights, not the shadows), in the bag.</p>

<p>Wow. I see someone's knickers seriously twisted over Nikkormats. Too bad, 'cause my FT2 and FT3 are built like tanks and work well as daily shooters, especially the latter. They load more easily than my Nikon F. Meter +/- from the top of the body for easy street shooting. Accept modern batteries and the best Nikon lenses. And never -- ever -- miss a beat. In short, they're great not for gearheads, but for people who actually go out and take pictures.</p>

<p>Tim,<br>

My Rollei and 6X7 are meterless, so I use either an old Gossen or a newer Sekonic. My only advice would be to stick with ONE film, say Tri-X (400). That way you'll get a feel for a range of light, from Sunny 16 on down. Learn to hyperfocus. Limit the variables as much as possible, even in developing (I use D-76). I would even limit the camera until its controls become second nature. Again, limit all variables. No reason to get confused with various shutter buttons and formats. My .02. In short: Keep it simple. And FUN :-).</p>

<p>I have a Rolleicord and a Pentax 6X7, with a wide, medium and long lens. Love each of them. but it's the Rollei that gets weekly use, because it's light, portable and silent -- and surprisingly great on the street. The Pentax, on the other hand, is the muthah of all SLRs, and listening to its mirror slap is like the thump of a Krupps gun -- utterly fantastic. But hefting the 6X7 on the street or up a hill is a labor of love. There is a huge difference in visual perspective between a TLR and eye-level camera. And of the two, the Rollei is more difficult to focus, and requires special attachments (Rolleinar) for close-ups.</p>

<p>Here's another approach, taught to me by a Brooks grad and news photog colleague in the biz 30 years. Instead of inversions, gently roll your canister the length of your counter (three or four feet) and back for 10 seconds at the top of each minute. Then give the canister a couple of vertical taps on the counter to shake loose the bubbles. I use stainless steel and D-76 1:1. Works for me.</p>