tele_tele

<p>It must be my sample then.<br>

If I leave exposure compensation at 0 and add a teleconverter I get totaly overexposed photos. Putting same amount of exposure compensation as TC reduces light (1.4 = -1.0, 1.7 = -1.5) I get same exposure as without TC at 0.</p>

<p>Well, I don't mind it at all, that way I at least know what focal length I used by looking in EXIT at exposure compensation. :-D</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I had a look at pocket wizard Multimax, seems really profesional with tons of features, many of them i won't be using.</p>

<p>Is there a product similar to Multimax? I like the trigger confirmation feature though, I wonder if any other remote triggers out there have it?</p>

<p>Well, I did some search, but market is great and quality ranges very much. I wanted to hear some 1st hand experiences with some really good specific products. I will this only once.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I am photographing birds and some are especially shy and hide would be impractical. BUT I do know places (rocks, branches) they visit frequently if a human (with a tripod and long lens) is 40meters+ away. I already own MC-30 for quality tripod shots, but distance is sometimes still a bit too great and hide would be impractical or not allowed.</p>

<p>So I need some sort of wireless trigger in order to put tripod and lens lets say 20-30m away from bird place, set up camera/exposure, sit some 20-30m away with binoculars and wait to trigger the remote.</p>

<p>Can you recomend some products that work good and are reliable?</p>

<p>Thank you for your answers.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thank you all for your answers and experiences.<br>

It seems that I don't gain much (if at all) if I would use the older TC0s instead of current TC-17. ( My wallet is also happy :-D. )<br>

I do use cable release with mirror release, so I know I am getting good results.<br /> <br /> Strange thing though, when I put any TC I own (Kenko 1.4 or Nikon TC-17) on 500/4P I always have to set exposure compensation at -1.0 or -1.5 (depending ot TC) to set proper exposure, since the aperture reported is f4. It is the same on D90 and D300. Without TC's I set it at 0 and get same exposure as before with -1.0/-1.5. Just my sample of 500/4P?<br /> <br /> Do you have similar experiences?</p>

 

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I own a Nikkor 500mm f4 P manual lens and a modified tc17-e to fit the lens.<br>

I am wondering if using tc-201 or tc-301 2x teleconverters would yield better optical results with this specific lens?<br>

Also which 1.4x would be better Kenko or Nikon tc-14b?</p>

<p>Thank you for your answers!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Elliot:<br /> You suggest "Focus tracking with lock-on" is better at off for moving subject?<br /> Currently I have it on "short", which in my understanding means that if a subject is moving towards me that is will wait just a short time to refocus. But this is just my opinion, I dont know techical background.<br>

With this setting "off" does it mean that it tries so refocus constantly and more frequently?</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

how do I setup D300 AF to do more of a closest subject priority type of thing when autofocusing. I know D300 doesnt have this explicit option, but how I can simulate it?<br>

I particular, how does the "Focus tracking with lock-on" option influence tracking subject in front of busy background. Should it be long/short, off?<br>

I am asking specificaly for birds in flight photography, when birds are moving in front of busy background like distant forest or ground. AF seems to loose focus now and then and prefers to focus on background.<br>

Thank you in advance.</p>

<p>Thanks Alan! Nice charts, that is what I was looking for.</p>

<p>Thanks Jose!<br>

It seems magnification decreases fairly quickly on 105mm macro lenses.<br /> <br /> These are minimal focus distances right? Not from the end of lens (working distance) but from sensor/film (focus distance)?</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

can someone be kind enough to post working distances for Nikkor 105mm and Nikkor 200mm macro lenses for various enlargment ratios?<br>

I am very interested in working distances for 1:1, 1:2, 1:3 and 1:4 ratios since I intend not to take photographs only of small bugs but also of snakes and shy reptiles.<br>

Can be also MFD's for those ratios instead of working distance, I can do the calculations later.<br>

Thank you in advance.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I will be using primarily Nikkor 300mm f4 AF-s with TC14e (tc17e) for taking photos of birds in flight.<br>

Also 70-200/2.8 with TC's sometimes.</p>

<p>Thanks.<br>

I read somewhere that some better sensors are f2.8 which enhance AF speed with fast lenses.<br>

What I would like to know if there is also difference with f5.6 lenses, which in my case is very important.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I would like to know what are the differences in speed and sensors between CAM1000 found in D200, D80, D90 and CAM3500 found in D300.<br>

a) Is center sensor better at f5.6 or f4 on CAM3500 or is the same? For BIF I use only ~420mm at f5.6 or 300mm at f4 so this is good to know. Is it cross type at 5.6 in CAM3500? What about in CAM1000?<br>

b) What f are other sensors in CAM3500 (cross type) ? I know only central is cross type on CAM1000.<br>

c) Those of you who upgraded from those cameras to D300. Is difference in AF speed and accuracy very noticable and worth the price?<br>

d) Was CAM1000 slowing down lenses before on the camera side? Do they feel faster od CAM3500?<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I have a Nikon 500/f4 manual lens, manfrotto 393 gimbal head (tightened) and a Velbon Sherpa PRO CF-645 tripod.<br>

<br /> The problem is that I still get vibrations in viewfinder which make manual focus harder and I still need to keep shutter speed quite high for a tripod setup (1/250 an up). I suspect leverage is the problem, or just the physical size (long lens)<br>

If I put Nikon 300/4 (with Burzynski collar) and tc17 making it a 500mm lens, I can shoot at 1/30 with no problem since (I suspect) the lens+body combination is shorter and lighter thus very rigid with less leverage.<br>

Can you help me with suggestions? Is it the head, tripod collar, tripod? Do I need some special multi point support, etc?<br>

I would really like to have a very stable setup for this lens.<br>

Thank you in advance</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I am looking for a low light wildlife lens for working from a hide on a tripod. I am looking at older manual lenses simply because of cost. I alread own manual 500/4 but need a faster shorter lens.<br>

1) Nikkor 200mm f/2.0 AI (s)<br>

2) Nikkor 300mm f/2.8 AI (s)<br>

Those of you who have experience with low light work from a hide, which one suits best?<br>

Which has better image quality and handles better, and possibly takes 1.4X tc when needed? I know these are older lenses and possibly have some "faults" on digital.<br>

Will be used on D300.</p>

<p>Thank you for your answers.</p>

 

<p>Are there any prisms without central split section? Just with microprism?</p>

<p>Thanks for suggestions.<br>

I will look into and study the new split-prism option, since it is a big topic in itself, but is there any "soft" way to turn off AF highlight point, so only the etchings remain?</p>

 

<p>Hi,<br /> <br /> I have a manual telephoto lens and use D90.<br /> <br /> What bothers me and distracts me from focusing more accurately are the AF points which are highlighted (black squares).<br /> <br /> Is there any way (by configuration) to clean up viewfinder to help me with manual focus?<br /> <br /> Thanks</p>

<p>How about birds in overhead flight photos when the bird is usually in its own shadow and overexposing for the bottom part usually renders the sky too light and still doesnt provide nice detail of the bottom feathers (even with postprocessing)?<br>

Could flash with an extender be practical in such conditions? Normal flash sync at 1/250 or FP sync?<br>

I am too thinking about this option, since I do a lot of BIF and all the time overexpose a bit and do the postprocessing to get at least some detail. Of course in no way it can compare to a situation when the sun (even in indirect way) lightens the feathers, like happens when the bird is at a better angle with the sun.<br>

Good lens doesn't help if there is no good lightning in this case.<br>

What is your experience with flash/extender and such overhead BIF "shooting".</p>

Hi,

 

what is in your opinion a better option to get sharper images at 500mm+ at moderate to slow shutter speeds

(1/30-1/250) (mainly for slow moving wildlife and mammals)?

 

- shutter release with a cord or wireless remote (no holding of equipment whatsoever)

- long lens technique (bracing lens, eyecup, ...)

- combination?

 

I do not have a wired remote yet, so I wonder if it will improve my images.

 

Thank you in advance.

Just to let you know. I did take the plunge, sold 135/2, bought 70-200VR and changed to D90, so now I can take photos in darkest of woods and overcast conditions + have 340mm with 1.7TC when light is better.

 

I just wish I've bought correctly the first time.

I forgot to add, BIF shots are 300/4 with TC or Bigma before, animals mostly 70-300 VR sometimes 135/2 (like the

bear ;-) and some deer )

For the birds in flight - which I do a lot - D80 with 300/4 plus 1.4 is all I need. I could benefit from better

quality at ISO400-800 when used with TC in not so good light but for now it is more than fine. For this I don't

need tripod, so usually I don't bring it.<br><br>

 

Other type of photography I do is "walking" type in forests (10-15km hikes), often also to a birding location,

and it is usually very shadowy, "tight" spaces/short distances and sometimes even monopod gets in a way since

things happen quickly or I need a very low position etc.<br><br>

 

Bringing another body with me for low light (although less range) or pack another lens is more of a question to

me. Now I bring 135/2 with me, which is short and no VR, question is should I pack 70-200 or bring another

body?<br><br>

 

I use photos mostly for web, good ones get published sometimes.<br>

Well, have a look, maybe it will be easier to see what I need.<br>

 

<br><br><a href="http://www.ajo.si/bestof/">Short collection of photos</a>

Thanks Elliot,

nice idea to use RAW and DXO, as seen in testing. I almost forgot this option since I am shooting JPEG all the time. For those critical shooting situations I could easily switch to RAW.

 

And VR on 70-200 is important, I am now leaning more to this option.

 

300/4 is definitely behind time, not having VR makes it much less usable handheld in lower light, but what can we do except wait ;-)