tele_tele

<p>Puppy Face:</p>

<p><br /> I did some research and it seems like Nikon DK-21M, Olympus ME-1 and Canon EP-EX15 are all SAME size BUT fit only Canon entry bodies like 450D up to 40D, 50D. They don't fit 7D.</p>

<p><br /> Canon EP-EX15 doesn't fit 7D as mentioned <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/278247-REG/Canon_2444A001_EP_EX15_Eyepiece_Extender.html">here</a>, nor does Nikon DK-21M (tried it myself). Mount point on 7D is too wide now so adapter cannot slide over.</p>

<p>I would say that no pin connector for cable release (D90 style connector is no good, gets unplugged together with cable too easy), no AF-ON button and (maybe) lack of more AF points are the only things I miss in D7000(at least from specs). Others specs are very nice.<br /> And new batteries. :-( I hope D400 will not require new batteries (format) as well as new grip. I don't understand why they can't make them compatible at least (size, connectors) and just add capacity. In this way one could use older batteries or newer ones (just with better capacity).</p>

<p>Is there a 1.2 or similar magnifier compatible with 7D?</p>

<p>So it is matte display then not transmissive LED?<br>

Funny thing is, no matter how hard I try indoors on blank walls, effect is not show. :-) Only outdoors, clear blue sky especially. Today's shooting of birds in flight revealed this. <br>

Unfortunately I don't have any other (faster) lenses with me to try this.</p>

<p>I suspect transmissive LED. Camera and lens are new, pictures are great, no vignettes on pictures. Effect is actually very pronouned with blue color (clear blue sky).<br /><br />Will try tommorow, when the sky is blue. I tried it now with blank wall and it is ok. Strange.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

is dark grainy/spotty vignetting in the viewfinder on 7d with 400/5.6 normal?<br>

Center is bright, but in corners many small dark spots appear forming kind of vignette. Effect is visible on light subjects especially on sky it is very visible.<br>

It is somewhat similar to the effect 7d produces in viewfinder (dark grainy spots) when there is no battery inside (because of transmisive LCD), but is a bit lighter and not in center.</p>

<p>I found some references in internet, other people notice that too.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/canondslr/discuss/72157623323153581/">Discussion on Flickr (scroll down to user's petefeats comment</a></p>

<p>I will try and photograph the effect.</p>

<p>Dan: Yes, DOF issue is the last choice (2.8 prime vs 4.0IS zoom). All other lenses are too heavy as secondary lens (I've used 70-200/2.8 before).<br /><br />I've actually been staring at the two deer photos and couldn't make my mind what is better - to exclude or include the deer's butt at 2.8 and 4.0 respectively. :-)<br /><br />Red deer is probably the biggest subject I will encounter and shallow 2.8 DOF vs 4.0 DOF really shows on such big subjects. <br />All other subjects would be either either a closeup (f/5.6+) or smaller size (inside DOF at f/2.8 and smaller aperture anyway, so there would be no visual difference on focused subject just background).</p>

<p>I guess I will go with the 70-200/4.0 IS. <br>

Funny, I did some statistics on pictures I made in a few years time and about 75% of them were in f/5.6-f/8.0 range, 10% around f/4.0, 10% around f/11 and only 5% around f/2.8.</p>

 

<p>What would be your opinion for better image/DOF at 200mm? 2.8 or 4.0?<br /><br /> <br>

<a href="../photo/11650031&size=lg">Red deer at 180mm f/2.8</a><br>

<a href="../photo/11650032&size=lg">Red deer at 180mm f/4.0</a></p>

<p>Actually the more I look reviews and the field practice, the better 70-200/4 IS seems to be than 200/2.8II.<br>

IQ-wise both seem spectacular.<br>

For closeups 70-200/4 seems better as you need smaller apertures (IS), even more with added TC's, and there is extra bonus in framing/magnification rate with extension tubes and zoom feature (especially on tripod). <br>

Only the f/2.8 looks cannot be replicated for wildlife shots. That and shorter size of 200/2.8. I guess I will have to decide on this one.<br>

Thanks. Your comments have been much valuable.</p>

<p>Juergen: I need something small and light to complement 400/5.6 or when going really light. I owned 70-200 and 180 lenses in the past and made many nice pics at 200mm length. Looking for Canon solution now.</p>

<p>Dan: 200mm would be mostly used, of course with a zoom I could take some landscape shots as well, but for this I have other lenses.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

which one of these two light telephoto lenses would you recomend for nature photography (especially big mammals, environmental shots and reptiles/flowers closeup photography) on 7D to complement 400/5.6.</p>

<p>Since there is no light 200/2.8 with IS this dilemma exists in the first place. :-)</p>

<p>Important criteria at 200mm:<br>

1) Wide open static wildlife shots in forest (f/2.8 vs f/4+IS). Mostly handheld or monopod.<br>

2) Close up work with 1.4TC and extension tubes (at f/8-f/11). Especially important are max. magnification and more working distance. Handheld or tripod.<br>

3) Resolution. Is 200/2.8 still good enough for 7D 18mp?</p>

<p>Obviously zoom is more practical for landscapes, but I would need this lens primarily for fauna and flora.<br>

I've used Nikon 70-200/2.8, 180/2.8 in past, but they all lacked something for my purpose or size/weight was too much.</p>

<p>Tell me your opinions and experiences.</p>

<p>Brian: Yes, I was just too used to Nikon display of EC, which shows both pointer and icon, and mistaken flash EC icon for ambience EC.</p>

<p>Omar:<br />Does it work better if you change Custom Function 1-1 from 1/3 to 1/2 stop?<br>

Full name of the Custom Function is C.Fn I Exposure - Exposure level increments in case the numbering is different on MarkIV.<br>

For me this constant changing from 5.6 to 6.3 (on the same subject and same low light) disappeared when I set this and now it keeps to the lowest aperture of 5.6.</p>

<p>Nicely said. AutoISO saves lives in light challenging conditions. :-)</p>

<p>Using Nikon I see Nikon gets AutoISO better in Tv, M modes and allows more configuration also for A mode and has it available with EC in manual mode (setting both DOF and stopping action while changing ISO) which 7D lacks.<br>

<br />Actually it is the only feature I really miss on 7d and now that I at least know workaround to my original posted problem I can get similar AutoISO behavior on 7D and D300 in tv mode.</p>

<p>Thanks all</p>

<p>Thx John again. That was tough for me, as I am too used to Nikon viewfinder and fingering apparently. :-) <br>

<br />Now, who will delete my original post is the real question. :-) </p>

<p>Ken: AutoISO and EC go nicely hand in hand.<br /> Meter (eval, poin, center) just sees subject and tries to put it as 18% gray and correspondingly set some ISO. But if subject is all white or all dark, you must do compensation to tell meter to underexpose (set lower AutoISO as it would) or overexpose (set higher ISO at it normaly would in AutoISO).<br>

Can you try it on 7D? Not showing sign for EC, when EC is in efect is by itself strange, while issue that standard EC shows sign but doesn't take efect is even more strange.</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>with Canon 7d (1.2.2) i found the following strange behaviour when setting exposure compensation. It seems to me as an error, but correct me if I am wrong.</p>

<p><br /> How to test it:<br /> Preliminary: Set AutoISO, tripod, focus on some subject<br /> 1: In Tv mode do direct exposure compensation with back wheel (for example 1 stop), half-push shutter button to start metering, ISO should also change 1 stop and no EC sign in viewfinder.<br /> Apparently EC does work, but shows no sign in viefinder.<br /><br /><br /> <br /> 2: In Tv mode do exposure compensation, but now with pushing ISO button and setting EC with back wheel (like 1 stop), half-push shutter button and look at ISO value. For me ISO stays the same but EC sign is visible in viewfinder.<br /> Apparently EC doesnt work, but shows sign in viefinder.</p>

<p><br /> This is with 1.2.2. firmware.</p>

<p><br /> Is this a defect or "by design"?<br>

Can anyone try this with his 7D (1.2.2 fw)<br>

<br /> thx</p>

<p>Wow, another bug.</p>

<p>In Tv mode and Auto ISO, setting exposure compensation directly with back dial works (iso decreases), while pushing ISO button and setting exposure compensation with back dial doesn't work (it say so in finder, but metering stays the same).<br /> It seems AutoISO has lots of tweaking to do.<br /> Now seriously, what is the best way to contact Canon international on this issues (in my country there is no service)?</p>

<p>Thanks everyone for quick help, especially John. <br /><br />As this is now understood and cleared, where it is best to contact Canon so they check this option and possibly tweak it?<br /><br />They actually had a similar bug resolved in 1.2.1, which states:<br />"When Auto ISO is used and Program Shift is applied, the ISO setting will be more stable and not change as frequently when the Main Dial is rotated. "<br /><br />This could well be some sort of AutoISO unstable behaviour as it is changing aperture way to quicky. For example I focus on some plant, just moving a centimeter to the right it changes aperture to 6.3 then again few cm away to 5.6 and then it repeats as I move lens a bit. Way too quickly.</p>

<p>John: <br /> >Check Custom Function 1-2 maybe you set it to 1 stop<br /> Didn't help. BUT changing Custom Function 1-1 to 1/2 stop (exposure) did the trick! Thanks for helping!<br /><br />It seems as if all this 1/3 exposure up/down twidling causes this effect. <br />Because it always just changed from 5.6 to 6.3 (1/3 stop) no more. Now that this is setup to 1/2 it doesn't have any problems.<br /> I tried it many times, and the "error" is repeatable. BTW I am a SW/HW tester. :-)</p>

<p>Brett: I know. Sometimes if background is even and light also I usually shoot in AutoISO off. But if background is very different (dark wood, light grass and bright sky all in same place) and constantly changing light, AV mode with ISO400 for example can be fooled by meter and choose too slow of a shutter speed to freeze action, thus I prefer shutter priority (and on Nikon also Manual mode, since in Nikon Manual mode+AutoISO you can do exposure compensation which you cannot on 7D). But hey, this is another long story... :-)</p>

<p>Marting: I guess you're right. Maybe I wouldn't achieve anything contacting them as they believe that this is right by design (similar to Nikon's preference for wide open aperture in tv). :-( <br />BTW Noise difference isn't any. Picture wise 7D is great. It is the aperture changing that bothered me, good thing is that I changes it always just by 1/3 of stop.</p>

<p>Ron:<br />I think this test wouldn't prove much. Exposure wise 1/500,6.3, ISO800 or 1/500, 5.6, ISO640 is the same. It is camera's choice to close the aperture when light is bad and keep higher ISO, instead of trying to shoot wide open, that is what bothers me and I am also used with Nikon.</p>

<p>John:<br />Yes, that was my typing mistake. Thx for correcting.<br>

<br />I really suspect it was programmers choice - keeping round ISO number and prefer to close aperture instead. :-/ <br />From exposure side of things it really doesn't matter (maybe little more noise), but from DOF side (shooting wide open) it does.<br>

BTW Where can one online submit such "errors/request" to Canon?</p>

 

<p>Ron:<br />This is how it is on Nikon (which I shoot for years and still do) - in shutter priority mode it always increases just the ISO and leaves aperture at lowest setting (if there is not enough light for base ISO).<br />Only if there too much light for chosen shutter speed it stops the aperture.<br>

I presumed it is the same on Canon or at least documented somewhere if different and how it behaves.<br>

So in situation above Nikon would choose (1/500) f/5.6 ISO 640 (decreasing ISO), Canon choosed 1/500 f/6.3 ISO800 (kept higher ISO, but stopped down 1/3 aperture).<br>

Why would camera close the aperture if there is not enough light in the first place and<br />iso is already high? Instead of ISO800 camera could take picture at<br />ISO640, and picture would be of better quality. <br>

Seems like there is some inside logic that is not documented like ISO-focal length relationship, round ISO number preference or it is just a fault.<br>

Juergen: There is no mention of this in manual - how Tv mode works with AutoISO or AutoISO with focal length. See page 63 and 98-99.</p>

<p>Sometimes slight shift to the right or left puts aperture to f/5.6. Maybe meter gets confused - but then logically it would increase ISO rather than close down aperture.</p>