warren_x
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Posts posted by warren_x
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There's two black metal protusions on the top of the bee. With your index finger and thumb, squeeze them towards each other (requires a fair bit of force). That will cause the pins to converge so that you can put the reflector in place. Then, release the tabs and the pins will lock the reflector in place.
How did you get the protective cover off without doing this? (!)
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I just bought a very similar thing from <a
href="http://www.vistek.ca/">Vistek</a> made by a Korean company called <a
href="http://www.matin.co.kr/english_ver/main.asp">Matin</a>. There are two
versions <a
and <a
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You could also just decrease the light ratio between the main and the fill flash. You didn't say if you were using the on-camera flash as fill, but if not, then give that a try first, with main:fill ratios in the 4:1 to 1:1 range.
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Upon closer inspection of the flash tube, I notice there's a wire running around the outside, connected to one of the pins. I suppose this is just a ground to suck away static charge, but nevertheless I'm inclined to agree that the foil isn't such a good idea. Maybe some sort of non-conducting fabric that can withstand temperatures, but not aluminum.
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Wow, that sounds like a great idea that I never thought of. Thanks, I'll give that a try.
What I like about that too, is that it doesn't matter whether you're using a softbox or an umbrella or a grid, etc.
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I was wondering the same thing too, recently. I wish there was a way of applying the neutral density to only the flash bulb, and not the modelling light, but I don't think so.
FYI, LEE Filters does have polyester neutral density 24"x21" sheets or rolls in 3-stop and 4-stop versions (codes 211 and 299, respectively).
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There's lots of information out there on lighting setups, but very
little on how to meter them. I am unable to find a summary of the
process for metering hair and (in particular) background lights.
For hair lights, I understand that the meter should be at the
subject's position, pointed toward the hair light.
In a typical three mono-light setup with a key, hair and background
light, where would the meter be for the background lighting - at the
subject's position, at the background, or at the camera - and to
where would it be pointed - at the light, at the camera, or at the
background?
And if my key was f/8 and my hair light was f/5.6 (for say, a dark
haired subject), what would be an appropriate setting for the
background light (using the appropriate metering method) for say, a
100% white background on white seamless, or a medium gray background
on white seamless? (I realize you wouldn't necessarily use a hair
light for a dark haired person on a white background, but I'm asking
more for the principle than for that exact scenario.)
Thanks
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All the advice you've gotten so far is good. There is little of interest in and around Santiago. I went to the Concha y Toro tour too, but felt it was a waste of time, being herded around like sheep and not really seeing too much.
In the north, you've got Lauca NP and the neat areas around San Pedro de Atacama.
I think the safety/security advice is good for anywhere you go, but I don't think there's anything in particular to worry about in Chile (EXCEPT maybe in and around Santiago, and in particular Valparaiso). I felt quite safe in the north and south, even carrying my Lowepro Topload Zoom AW on my chest quite often because my backpack was too full.
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"BE1" for EOS 3 + PB-E2<p>
"EOS" for EOS 3 alone<p>
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Ditto to the above post.<p>
<i>Why not spend the cash that I wouldve spent on film and processing onto a kick-arse digital SLR</i><p>
The 10D is only a <i>kick-arse</i> SLR <i>for a digital</i>, right now.<p>
If you're as concerned as you seem to be about metal/plastic/durability, this decision is an easy one.<p>
The more difficult thing to do, IMO, is to reevaluate the crack on the A2E. It might cost a couple hundred bucks, but that really isn't a lot if you're otherwise satisfied, in comparison to a new body.
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I've done it.<p>
Buy one of these:<p>
<img height="100" src="http://www.protak.com/A-SRB.jpg">
to fit the width of the webbing of the straps. Put one side on the end of the neck strap, the other on the end of the hand-strap. Properly adjusted, you should be able to just hook the two together. A bonus feature is that the neck strap is quick-releasable if you rig something up for the other side too.
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By the way, you might also want to consider the Orion AW. I kind of wish I had bought that one instead, because it's about the same as the Rover Light, except that the top and bottom parts are detachable. You can even swing the bottom part around to the front to get at your gear more easily. The drawback, as far as I understand, is that it's quite expensive.
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Yes, all four of those items should fit. You'll probably have to rearrange the velcro pads in there to suit, but this is not a big deal.
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I have a Rover Light. It would work for your purpose, except that I find the upper portion to be a bit small. If you need to put any three-ring binders in there, you would have a hard time. That said, I don't think there are any similar style bags out there that could do any better.
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It seems as though the announcement of this lens has been totally
overshadowed by that of the 10D body. Even in Canon USA's own press
release, it's almost a footnote.
Anyway, I notice that the filter size of the 17-40 f/4L is 77mm, the
same as for the 16-35 f/2.8L. Do you think this was really necessary?
Could they not have gotten away with a smaller filter size (and
therefore a less expensive filter) due to the smaller maximum
aperture? Or are they trying to maintain consistency among the L
series?
A 72mmm diameter would have made this lens a great companion to the
28-135.
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Always ensure that the pressure plate is clean and free of dust and dirt before closing the cover.
If that doesn't work -- I believe this is a known and not-uncommon problem, so you should try to get them to replace it 'under warranty'. A few days ago there was someone else complaining about the same problem, and I've had my 3's pressure plate replaced (under warranty) twice.
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I use another free program, "RName-It". It has a lot of features, including replacing certain strings within a filename, incrementing numbers or letters, a preview, etc. etc.
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In wireless mode, both master and slaves are automatically set to the widest zoom setting (24mm). You can override either or both of them as you please, but having too narrow a master flash zoom could block the wireless communication between the master and slaves. There is no automatic 'link' between the zoom amount of the master and slaves.
See pages 52 and 53 of your 550EX manual.
Place the 420 at a distance from the subject that, if you were photographing the subject from that distance with a 24mm lens, would not crop the 'frame' at all.
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I think it makes the same noise as without the PB-E2, except that the noise is "completed" much more quickly and hence it is less annoying.
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Compressed air is usually considered to be overkill as it risks doing more harm than good. Use a bulb-style blower brush. FWIW, I had my EOS 3's pressure plate replaced twice under warranty because of the exact problems you describe. Seems to be OK now, but I am careful to wipe the pressure plate with the (clean and dry) back of my hand during every reload.
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First, unless you live in Alberta, you <i>will</i> have to pay provincial tax. In Ontario, for example, add another 15% to the price.
<p>
Second, never pay the sticker price at places like Henry's or Downtown. They are not 'absolute', like at B&H. Of course, if you can not go to one of these stores in person, then you may have no choice.
<p>
So by the time you compare apples to apples, the price difference is usually $50 to $100 or maybe even $200. To me, that's more than worth the money to be able to 1) have hassle-free warranty support and 2) buy Canadian. Don't nickle and dime things like those on an item for which you have to shell out $2K (IMHO).
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Funny, I'm planning to go there too, at the beginning of November. I don't know about Los Glaciers, but it sounds like five days in TdP would be appropriate depending on what 'route' you took. The most popular one known as El Circuito is a 6-7 day hike. Looking at a map of the park, there are plenty more locations than are covered by the El Circuito route, so I don't think you would 'exhaust the scenic locations'.
Lonely Planet's 'Trekking in Patagonia' guidebook has a few pages on specific routes through TdP that may be worth checking out, I presume it would plenty on Los Glaciers as well.
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Newfoundland is a little more out of the way than the rest of the maritime provinces, but is stunningly beautiful in many places (it's the next province on my list). The recent movie "The Shipping News" was filmed there and is supposed to have showcased the land quite nicely. It might be worth a rent.
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There will be no shortage of dramatic scenic locations anywhere you go in that area, especially at that time of year (though the leaves are just barely *starting* to turn).
Obvious locations are Bay of Fundy National Park, the Cabot Trail in NS, all of PEI (lighthouses, potato fields, Charlottetown and red dirt) and most of the coast of southern NS (especially Lunenberg and Peggy's Cove, just south of Halifax). I suspect the provincial and national parks in NB would be best for wildlife, and of course there's also whale watching off the coasts of NB and NS as well.
Pressed for time, you could probably do PEI in two days and Cape Breton in two or three days, but that doesn't leave a lot of time for NS and NB which are not as small as they look on the map.
Lobster, yes, plus oysters, mussels, the whole lot ...
Italy in September/October - how are the crowds?
in Travel
Posted
I was there the first two weeks of October this year. We visited Cinque-Terre, Venice, the major places in Tuscany and Umbria, and of course Rome.
There weren't really any 'crowds' to speak of, but there were plenty of tourists, especially in Venice and San Gimignano, but there was no elbowing required.
We had a hard time getting a place to stay in Rome, book at least two WEEKS in advance. Note that there was no autumn foliage in Tuscany/Umbria, I guess it was too early.