joaquin_bueno1

<p>To second a previous response: I too am using a HAODA adapter. I have a feeling it is a more costly version of the Chinese adapters that sell for anywhere from $35 to $50, but I did not mind paying $80 considering I got it in two days (I've ordered Chinese stuff on ebay that's taken over a month to arrive) and the peace of mind of Haoda's 100% feedback and apparent dedication to standing behind his products. The adapter seems sturdy enough and works very nicely.<br>

I am using it to mount a 50mm Zeiss planar f/1.4 in C/Y Contax mount on a Canon 5D Mark II. At first, with the standard screen, I had the annoying problem that metering (using evaluative) would be spot-on at f/1.4 to about 2.8, then would tend to overexpose at any smaller apertures UNLESS I used live view mode (weird, but I think it has something to do with the focusing screen). As per the previous post, I switched the screen to a Canon Ee-s screen (cost about $35) and worked miracles. Firstly, it makes focusing easier due to its more precise magnification. Secondly, it makes the metering work perfectly shooting in Av mode at all apertures. Quite a bargain considering the camera price!<br>

I have not had any problems with the adapter/lens set up since I started with the screen. The only quirks are that it can be tricky to learn to focus with it, in tandem with the AF confirm light, but if you are used to manual focus it is really a delight to have on such a nice camera. I took some pics of the UNC celebrations last night with this lens setup (I'll post them to www.flickr.com/photos/blahgspot later) and I got images I would not have gotten in a million years with any other camera/lens!</p>

<p>For what it's worth, my comment is on the physical attributes o fth elenses. I have bot the M-Rokkor for the CLE and the 40mm Summicron-C and the M-Rokkor is significantly lighter (but still feels every bit as well-built) than the Summicron. The Summicron seems the slightest bit more compact than this later Rokkor lens as well (maybe a couple mm shorter).</p>

<p>Don't know what all the cynicism to the question is about. Down here in Cackalacky everybody knows that if you don't cover the red dot (on the camera or the Leica case) you will be quickly solicited by horny male black widow spiders. Gee-whiz.</p>

<p>I think he meant "import" as in "grey market import," such as that seller on breebay that is Japan-based, versus the same lens's USA version.</p>

Just to clarify / confirm what is being said here on the M6 ttl battery:

 

1. The meter is not "on" until the lever is cocked. Yes?

 

2. Even when the meter it is not "on," the battery will drain if and when the shutter release button is depressed?

 

I am trying to figure this out, as it seems that nothing comes up in the indicator upon pressing the shutter release when the shutter advance lever has not been cocked after an exposure. My initial logical response would be to assume that the meter is not on and draining the battery in this situation, but some of you say it is, and thus the reason for the "OFF" setting on the dial. Is this correct?

 

The reason it baffles me is because it seems counter intuitive. That is to say, one would think that the OFF button would exist just for situations where the lever has been cocked. The Leica manual states that "The exposure meter is switched on by light pressure on the shutter release button, PROVIDING [my emphasis] THAT THE SHUTTER IS COCKED and shutter speed dial is not set to B or OFF."

 

This would seem to contradict what some people have said on here.

 

I am not sure why this has me so confused. I continue to assume that my meter is off!

 

Thanks for all your responses!

I have done similarly with both vuescan and epson scan, finding that I could have the most to work with scanning as a color positive and

manually inverting, then doing level adjustments and curves in PS CS3. Lots of work, but then why not, if we are working with film! One

question, does anyone doing a similar process work from greyscale early in the process, or do you wait until later to grayscale?

Thank you all for your great responses!

 

Craig--you were right on the dot--it had precisely to do with the pin on the left side that was not tripping the mechanisms in the back. The back itself appears to be fine. As it turns out, the left pin was jammed (probably due to a long time in storage) with some trace amounts of gunk. Fortunately, everything else seems fine, the camera is virtually unused (the previous owner says he put only 20something rolls through it, and I believe it!), except the seals might need to be replaced (typical degeneration into junk).

 

I am now confident to put a new roll in and shoot away (I might end up selling it as I want something portable for landscape shooting, and with a little non-walking baby that I am lugging around, this is a quite a chore!).

 

Thanks again, and I hope to learn more from this forum.

Hello all!

 

Regarding the RB67 Pro-S:

 

From having read the manual, I understand that after taking a picture, a red mark is supposed to show up in the

exposure counter on the film back. In my case, after exposing, there is no red mark. The only way I can get a red

mark to appear is by sliding the tiny metal hook underneath the exposure indicator the left.

 

This is really weird, since it seems that even though the multiple exposure lever is in the correct place

(down/off), I can take many exposures on just one frame.

 

Sound familiar to anyone? Am I doing something horribly wrong?