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analox

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Posts posted by analox

  1. <p>Hi all,<br /> <br />My question is about film rangefinder but not a Leica. Not sure where to ask but this forum. My apologies if I post it in a wrong place.</p>

    <p>I want to ask you guys if this is correctly how a normal QL17 should work:<br /> 1. First, the shutter release button is at the "up" position (meaning that you can press it down)<br /> 2. When I want to take picture, I press the button to the "down" position and hear the shutters "click".<br /> 3. The shutter release button is now at the "down" position.<br /> 4. Advance the film level to next frame. During the advancing, the shutter button is "up" again.<br /> <br /> The shutter on my QL17 seems to work fine for some tests but the shutter release button gets stuck quite often. The problem I encounter happens at Step 4: the shutter button is stuck at the down position. When it happens, I can not advance the film level, OR I can advance the film level but the shutter button does not come to the "up" position again.<br /> <br /> I have tried:<br /> 1. to rotate the shutter ring couple of times until magically the shutter button is released to the "up" position again.<br /> 2. open the film back so that I can advance the film level. When the film level is advanced, sometimes, the shutter button is released to "up" position again.<br /> <br /> Have you experienced this when using your camera? Any advice on how to fix it?<br /> <br /> Thanks a lot & Cheers <img title="Smilie" src="http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/images/cs/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" /><br /> N</p>

  2. <p>Some other thoughts:<br>

    1. When I hear about the improvement over the image quality, i.e., a lighter AA filter (my major concern is here) and a new, professionally-tuned TruPic V+ processor, I guess that is all the basic I want from the new E5. When I see the image samples from Olympus website, kinda "feel" the improvement there. Still, more systematic comparison to E3, D300s and 60D would be very useful. Anyway, like your PC, same case, but new CPU processor, why so disappointed? Features-wise, I agree that "Seems to me the E-5 brings their flagship line up to the expectations of users who wish to continue use of the 4/3rd's format." :)<br>

    2. The statement on the future of mirrorless camera does mean no "professional" camera, doesn't it? Why not a mirrorless camera, with phase-detection fast focus, weather-proof, etc..., like the new move of Sony STL-A55? Actually, I was hoping that Olympus would be the first to introduce this...<br>

    3. Amazon is selling E5 (pre-order) at 1699$. Canon 60D is sold at 1100$. I think the price should be reduce in the future, especially with the release of Nikon D7000 at 1200$. Let's hope...</p>

     

  3. <p>http://dpreview.com/previews/OlympusE5/page3.asp<br>

    More news<br>

    http://www.43rumors.com/continually-updated-here-it-is-the-new-e-5/<br>

    My thoughts: </p>

     

     

    <p>There is not much revolutionary features from Olympus in E5 then. However, if you love the Zuiko lens (like me), I still think E5 sounds appealing to Olympus users, except for the high price. E5 has pretty much what basic improvements I could ask Olympus for. At least we should wait for some sample images taken by E5 to compare with older TruPic sensor and others. Is it that image quality was why most of us choose Olympus at the beginning?</p>

    <p>How's about yours?</p>

     

     

  4. <p>Fully agree with Greg's answer! I have nothing to add if you "would like to get CLEAR shots with NO flash if possible" :)<br /> Personally, I think using flash on a "low light" wedding is not a bad option :). You can find many examples out there... <a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2672/4197771924_8fb49cebfa_o.jpg">This</a> is one of my attempt in using flash to freeze action during a game in my friend wedding :)<br /> Alternatively, for fast lens, you may want to look into Sigma 30mm f1.4 for FourThird. I heard their 50mm f1.4 is coming soon (<a href="http://www.four-thirds.org/en/fourthirds/single.html#sigma50">link</a>) :)<br /> Regards</p>
  5. <p>Hi Gerry,<br>

    Thank you for replying!<br>

    Yes, by saying "in focus", i mean a solid unwavering green dot in the viewfinder so that I can take a picture after that (in S-AF mode).<br>

    I'm not sure what EV value is but the exposure of the room where I test the focusing is 1/10sec, f/4, ISO 800. The performance is still somewhat unpredictable to me. But I can describe something like this: If I got the focus right at some subject, I can quickly focus at other subjects nearby. But if I was focusing on a subject at 4 meters away from me and then try to focus on another subject 1 meter from me, the camera starts struggling. The situation sometime occurs in daylight as well, if the subject has a strong backlight (e.g. the sun) <br>

    I'm glad to hear that E3 + 12-60mm serves you well. Waiting for the next flagship E-x...<br>

    Cheers</p>

  6. <p>Hi,<br>

    Previously, I have been using the 12-60mm SWD lens on E520. The focusing speed and accuracy is great in overall but I sometimes found it difficult to focus in indoor/lowlight situations. The focusing seems "stuck" to lock the focus.</p>

    <p>I recently upgrade to E620 body in hope for better focusing speed since the camera uses the AF mechanism of E3. Well, it clearly improve over E520 performance, in both speed & accuracy :). But again, in lowlight condition, I either have to wait around 1 second to see the focus locked ("green light") or the AF just moves back & forth. I notice it happens when the current image (in the viewfinder), before AF, is very "not in focus".</p>

    <p>So I used these techniques to overcome this problem for the time being (it may be better in the future E-5?).<br>

    1. Use S-AF+M mode<br>

    2. Rotate focus ring to achieve "nearly in focus" image. Then find & focus on the contrast area. Plus try to use the cross-type AF points (which is the center point in E520, or 5/7 points in E620). It generally helps.<br>

    3. Last solution -> switch to MF mode...</p>

    <p>Just want to share & hope to get feedback from you guys too :)<br>

    Regards</p>

     

  7. <p>I'm from Vietnam and currently doing my graduate study in Singapore.<br>

    <br /> To me, photography is a way to express myself and how I see the world. Besides, I found it fun and challenging to made a pleasing photo when math and art are combined through lighting and composition. I still like to try out different genres of photography, but mainly focus on street & portraits.<br>

    <br /> One of my "photography resolution" this year is to be more active on Photo.net. Guess it starts by this :D<br>

    <br /> My portfolio: http://www.photo.net/photos/analox<br /> My Flickr: Minh Nghia & Mai Phuong (many shots in this photostream are taken by my wife. She's also into photography. It's kinda corporation & competition in some senses :D)<br>

    Cheers<br /> Nghia</p>

     

  8. <p>Thank you all for your explanations!<br /> <br /> Guess I'm a bit confused when posting this question :D. In summary,<br /> <br /> a. Yup, sensor size does not play a role in light exposure, so the it is not required to adjust light power in my question (assuming same equivalent flash zooms are used)<br /> <br /> b. In other situation when FF camera needs to preserve angle of view + depth of field (maybe in group shot in wedding), the flash power may need to be adjust according to the change in aperture. For example:<br /> <br /> - Camera 1: full frame Canon 5D, at f=24mm, f8, ISO100 (shutter speed is not an important factor here)<br /> <br /> - Camera 2: 4/3 camera, at f=12mm, f4, ISO100<br /> <br /> In this case, if the flash power is 1/16 to well expose the group in 4/3 camera, we need to set flash power to 1/4 in case of using full frame camera.<br /> <br /> It it correct now?</p>
  9. <p>I wonder if a full frame camera (e.g., Canon 5D) will require more flash power to light a subject than crop-frame (e.g., 4/3 camera)?<br /> <br /> Let assume I use 2 cameras to shoot a subject (e.g., person)<br /> <br /> - Camera 1: full frame Canon 5D, at f=24mm, f4, ISO100 (shutter speed is not an important factor here)<br /> <br /> - Camera 2: 4/3 camera, at f=24mm, f4, ISO100<br /> <br /> Well, since I think<br /> <br /> - the aperture radius of the lens is the same for both settings (~ 24mm/4)<br /> <br /> - the sensor size of FF is 4 times larger than 4/3 sensor<br /> <br /> Then if the flash power is 1/16 to well expose the subject in 4/3 camera, we need to set flash power to 1/4 in case of using full frame camera.<br /> <br /> Hmm... is the math correct here? Please advice :D<br /> <br /> Thank you all in advance :)</p>
  10. <p>I guess you may want to try this basic test<br>

    - Attach fl-36 flash to your camera<br>

    - Set Flash setting on your camera to Flash mode (not the Auto mode) to force the flash firing<br>

    - Set the flash to TTL-auto<br>

    Test some shots to see if the flash fires as expected.<br>

    The manual book would be helpful to learn available setting of your flash<br>

    Other than that, I think this site is great for some basic learning about external flash<br>

    <a href="http://www.planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/">http://www.planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/</a><br>

    Cheers</p>

  11. <p>Here some output of mine. Thanks all for your interest & advices :)<br /> <br /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8518714-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="453" /> <br /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8518702-lg.jpg" alt="" width="533" height="800" /> <br /> <br /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8518709-lg.jpg" alt="" width="533" height="800" /> <br /> <br /> The complete set is <a href="../photodb/folder?folder_id=889329">here</a> . Most of the photos were taken using ambient light only. I tried on-camera flash too but guess it didn't work well...</p>
  12. <p>Hi,<br /> <br /> I was asked by my friends to photograph their performance in their university concert. It is just a school event so using flash is allowed. I know that the stage is quite big (main lecture theater). Ambient light is one main spot/hard light & it will be pretty dark around.<br /> <br /> I'm thinking of using flash in this case since natural light would likely result in hard and ugly shadow on their faces & I don't have a very fast lens (f2.8 is the best that I can get). I have 2 flashes, both can be triggered wirelessly. But I'm not sure if off-camera flash in this case is useful & convenient or I just use on-camera setting...<br /> <br /> I would like to have your opinions or experience on this situation, especially on the light setting aspect. Example photos to illustrate would be greatly appreciated...<br /> <br /> Looking forward to hear from you guys. Thanks in advance!<br /> <br /> Nghia<br /> <br /> Regards<br /> <br /></p>
  13. <p>I haven't contacted Olympus yet. Still wait to gather inputs from you guys...<br>

    I hear about using some IR filter and there is some available for Nikon but no news for Olympus. Some says we should wait for firmware update, but I can't find any announcement from Olympus...<br>

    Another solution is to use some flash trigger (e.g. Pocket Wizard), but it's rather expensive & a waste of camere's wireless functionality :|</p>

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