ejchem101

<p>Robin, Shooting sports in a gymnasium is a definite challenge for a beginner and non-beginner alike. The most important thing you will learn is that you will need a camera with a large aperture (small number). This aperture number is listed after the focal length of the camera (70-200 f4 ... the f4 is the maximum aperture). You will want a lens that has a maximum aperture of at least 2.8 for most gyms. Larger aperture if you can get it (smaller number).</p>

<p>I would highly recommend primes for basketball. Primarily an 85mm focal length prime lens would be perfect!</p>

<p>Good luck, and have fun!</p>

<p>Gerry, thanks for your words of wisdom. I happen to agree with you, I am not sure when a lens becomes "obtrusive". I have to agree that chimping is absolutely something that sooo many photographers need to get away from. My method of getting away from that happens to be to think that I'm shooting film. Does it help to look at the lcd once in a while to make sure something crazy isn't going on? Sure... but so many people will look after every single shot!</p>

<p>As for the way I dress, I suppose that could also be part of it. When a 6'3" guy pulls up a camera, it often gets noticed. Not that it is always a horrible thing, just something I have to get past.</p>

<p>I would highly recommend the 50 1.8, as it is very affordable and an ok portrait lens on an aps-c sensor. </p>

<p>In the "wide-normal" zoom range (what your kit lens is) if you are only looking at canon "L" zoom lenses you've got a few options. I would head over to canon's website and browse through the lenses, and then go find reviews on ones you think would be a good focal range for you. If you are wanting a portrait lens, you'll probably be looking at the lenses in the range from 50 to 135 or maybe even longer.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Great feedback guys. This weekend I went to my father's 50th birthday party. Took my camera everywhere, took lots of photos and had a lot of fun. I have to agree though, tossing on my 50mm works perfectly for making the dslr less noticeable. </p>

<p>I find myself wanting to take more photos. More photos of people... but then, when I go to someplace like a restaurant with family, I start to feel uncomfortable about carrying my dslr along. Is it a matter of "just do it" and I will start to feel more comfortable?</p>

<p>Maybe I will just toss on a small lens and it will help to make it more inconspicuous? or should I just get over it, these are newbie feelings and who cares if I take my camera? </p>

<p>I feel this way even at weddings sometimes... too self-conscious of me and my camera. I'm not saying I want to take photos of everything but then again.... why not?</p>

<p>I went to a "cage match" type of fight, and decided to leave my camera and lens in the car... why?... I guess I felt like I would stand out too much... but there would have been great photo ops.</p>

<p>Are these just places where I need to have a good p&s, or maybe a new 4/3rds system with a pancake lens instead of a canon 20D and L lenses?</p>

<p>Anyone else have this happen?</p>

<p>I would probably either send it to cannon, or start taking it apart myself. Will your insurance cover it? </p>

<p>Heartbreaking, must have been an awful sight.</p>

<p>I love being able to compare using charts... now remember at the 200mm point, in the comparison you have you are comparing the 70-200/4 at f4 and the 70-300 at f5... if you set them at the same speed, the differences speak for themselves in my opinion. </p>

<p>PS you can pick up a 70-200 F4 non-is for around $500 used.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>For the risk involved in buying from unknown marketplace sellers, you might as well buy 3 OEM licenses from NewEgg for the same amount of money.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>One thing to note about OEM Licenses that I have been burned on before. If your motherboard need to be replaced (even if everything else stays the same) you have to buy a new windows install. The OEM versions are linked to the motherboards. The nice thing about the retail versions, is that you can transfer them to any new computer whenever you upgrade and/or trash your old one.</p>

<p>Kira, I find myself in the exact place as you. </p>

<p>You expressed it much better than I could have myself. A couple of things to think about. #1, think about getting a desktop, even if it is just for editing. They are cheap ($300 ish) and if you get a good one will drastically increase your editing speed. Not to mention they are much easier to fix and/or upgrade for the long run.</p>

<p>#2. Who is your client? In my opinion I will never charge my family / friends... even if I was a pro, that is just the way my family is. I recently took photos for our local high school, I was there to learn and practice covering an event (prom). I then offered to make CD's that could be used as a school fundraiser. If I felt that I was ready to go pro... maybe I would have charged the school, but as this was my first event, I dont see myself charging now, or even the 2nd or 3rd time. I like to help out where I can.</p>

<p>#3. What is your motive? Is it so that you can make money? If you're planning on making a lot of money don't forget that you would be a buisness. Any money under the table is technically illegal since you aren't paying income tax on it.</p>

<p>All of these things put together made it clear to myself that I will have a lot more fun if I take pictures for the heck of it. If someone feels obliged to pay me, then I would say thank you and move on from there, but if you're at the same place as me, remember that right now photography is your hobby... are you sure you want to make it your profession?</p>

<p>Mark, I think for us amateurs there comes a point where we know what we need, for what we shoot, and we are content with us. </p>

<p>Mainly, our photos are for our own enjoyment, the enjoyment of making them, and sharing them with friends.</p>

<p>Professionals have to worry about what can they do to get the edge over the competition. Some amateurs see competition in places as well, with other amateurs. Personally, I just want the best photos I can get.</p>

<p>I would have to say that I am content with my gear for the time being, and love to just get out and make photos, and mine isn't even as impressive as yours. My kit: 20D, 17-40L, nifty fifty, 70-200 f4 L.</p>

<p>To elaborate on my earlier post, I own the 70-200 f4 non-IS. From your post it sounds like you are primarily shooting outdoors. There has not yet been a time outdoors (during the day) when I have felt like I need the IS, and I have had this lens for about 3 years. Even at the long end, as long as you are keeping speeds around 1/200th of a second you should not be able to notice much camera shake. 1/200th should be very doable outdoors, and if not then I would be using a tripod.</p>

<p>ISO 100, f4, 1/800th<img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_y7ImBA34qBI/S-bUb0EZf_I/AAAAAAAABuA/Qgz7P099bJU/s800/Spring%20Sports%20087.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="534" /></p>

<p>Paul, I have the F4 version and completely beleive that it is the best L lens for the money. I also believe that it is the best lens that I have bought.</p>

<p>Thank you Harry, That was exactly what I was looking for. I've read the strobist blog, but it is completely about the off-camera flash. I'm not quite to that point yet, but looking forward to whenever I do get a chance. For now I think I might look around for a diffuser for portraits, and other than that I think you are completely right about just using the flash as a tool.</p>

<p>Thanks for your help!</p>

 

<p>I actually love buying used cameras. I feel that the savings you can have over a new one is absolutely amazing. </p>

<p>That being said, I have not bought any of the rebel series used cameras. I figure the cost savings aren't as great. (they're under $1k to start with anyway). </p>

<p>My biggest recommendation is to get a camera that is a little more "sturdy" such as the Canon xxD series. You can find cameras such as the 20D for as little as $250 - $350. When this camera went for.... $1200 in 2004-2005ish. This is actually my recommendation to any of my friends that are wanting to get started in photography (and what I personally have done). This allows you to spend money on lenses, and if your camera breaks down... well it was only $250 anyway.</p>

<p>I would also say whatever body you're using now (as long as it's is the 20D or newer) is probably perfectly capable. If you're wanting to get a new body for IQ, upgrade your lenses instead, they will give you much more bang for your buck.</p>

<p>Basically what you want to do, is make sure you have a good exposure for the background (by metering like you normally do without a flash). This will allow you to have good background exposure, you would then use the flash to fill, and if the subject was slightly under exposed, now they will be correctly exposed with the flash, and the background will still be exposed.<br>

ETTL should manage that fairly well, if you're not quite sure about settings, expose for your setting without flash (in manual) and then turn the flash on.<br>

I believe there is also a way to do this with Tv mode... I think by setting to your fastest flash sync speed, and then the camera picks the aperture.</p>

<p>Hey guys, I picked up a 430 EX II about a week ago. I used it for photographing a dance for the high school that I teach at, they turned out great. I need to decide whether to keep it, or return it.</p>

<p>In terms of lighting, I've always been a fan of natural-light photography, however, I'm starting to realize the benefits of having a powerful on-camera flash. Probably the biggest advantage I've started to see is that you can essentially lessen the dynamic range, allowing the background to be not as washed out (fill flash).</p>

<p>I bought it because I wanted more than just the direct on-camera flash, I loved the ability to bounce the flash, adding so much more to the photos than I would have guessed. So... I'm very happy with the results, but... where do I go from here with this flash?</p>

<p>Since it does add considerable size to the camera, do you take speed lights with you everywhere? When do you leave them at home?</p>

<p>What are the main locations that you use your speedlights? Are they always on your cameras (I have a Canon 20D, and dont particularly like the on-camera flash), what places are they an absolute MUST for you? I'm not looking at adding additional strobes for the moment being.</p>

<p>Are portraits the only place you use a strobe? What about uses for nature photography?</p>

<p>I'm just wanting to get the most out of my purchase.</p>

<p>Greg, in my opinion it should be based on what you take photos of.</p>

<p>I have the Canon 70-200 F4, and feel that it takes great portraits, as well as a great all around outdoor lens. However, if I were trying to do indoor sports, it would be lacking as it is not as fast. Since most of my photos with this lens is outdoors, I love it and feel that it's IQ as well as build is amazing.</p>

<p>Yes as long as they are EF mount then they will fit. It is only the Digital EF-S lenses that will not fit on the older film cameras, or the full frame digitals.</p>

 

<p>I will say that I really like the 17-40 L. I have this on a 20D and while it is nothing amazing on a crop body, it is sharp, it is a decent all-around lens with great build. </p>

<p>I also toss it on my old film bodies when I want to exploit the ultra-wide end of things until I save up for a FF.</p>

<p>I would think the 55-250 and 70-300 IS would be too close to each other in terms of IQ that I wouldn't bother with having both of them.</p>

<p>I know you said you dont think you'll ever have an "L" lens due to budget... but there are some very affordable L Lenses. Look into a 70-200 F4 non-IS... They go for about $500 used. (not very much more than your 70-300 IS I believe)</p>

<p>Thank you William.</p>

<p>Yes, I do try to buy once and then keep things as long as I can. Actually, I even bought all of my gear used, and it is still up and working!</p>

<p>I didn't see any 580's for sale, but I will keep my eye out. I figure with only one flash I'm not too worried about the ability to manage a wireless setup.</p>

<p>After last night I found that the 430 had enough power for me, as long as I had it set up correctly, I've got a little bit of learning to do with it, but for the most part was pretty simple. I found my best results last night were bouncing the flash off the ceiling but then setting the FEV to +1/3 or +2/3. Then tilting it down if I needed a farther shot.<br>

<p>Thanks for the recommendations guys, I actually went and picked up a 430 EXII to try for tonight. If I like it i'll probably hold onto it, if not, I'll return it, all depends.</p>

<p>At the moment I am using a fully-manual vivitar zoom thyristor 3500. I have been asked to take candid photos at prom (i'm a teacher), but I am also planning on taking some portraits this summer, as well as the possibility of being a photographer at my cousin's wedding.</p>

<p>I rarely use off-camera flash (I have a 20d), and I like to use natural lighting whenever possible. However, when it gets dark, or inside I really only have one lens that I don't have to crank the ISO up to compensate for. My other lenses are constant F4. Is it worth it to pick up say... a 430 EX II? Or should I practice some with this oldie Vivitar?<br>

Is this one of those purchases that... Once I have it, I'll use it all the time? (things like fill flash etc) or I wonder if it will end up sitting my camera bag.<br>

The other thing I am expecting is having focus issues if I don't have a focusing light.</p>