glenjo

<p>Looks noisey here on a calibrated monitor.</p>

<p>I upgraded from an old tube 19" CRT to a new 24" LCD monitor (both hardware calibrated) last year and was amazed at how noisey some of my high ISO shots suddenly looked. I also found out that the cause of the noise in many cases was not the camera, but added by the raw program I use so I was easily able to make the shots look much better.</p>

<p>That's what mine does.</p>

<p>Doh! Make photo smaller...</p>

<p>Lots of nice shots!<br>

Waiting of Spring here, but it's close!</p><div></div>

<p>It's the dust INSIDE the lens that drives me nuts, especially when it shows up with the lens stopped down.</p>

<p>Are you sure it's not Windows freezing up? (Dumb question, but I'm curious if you have other programs running that remain running and it's only FF freezing up.)</p>

<p>The newer the camera, the less able it is of doing UV or IR photography without removing the UV/IR filter in the camera. In fact, the reviews I have seen state that UV/IR photography was pretty much not possible on cameras produced from about the D200 (so this includes the D80 and D90) onwards without modification.</p>

<p>I would suggest a slightly different approach. Any one of these cameras are excellent to excellent plus. Get the D200 if you are happy with DX and weakest high ISO, get the D300 if you want better high ISO, and get the D700 if you need FX and the best high ISO. IMHO the D700 is your best long term investment.</p>

<p>But you need to concentrate on your perceived weakness - unfamiliarity with the digital photo workflow rather than be all concerned with the camera. Unfortunately it's difficult to "demo" all the software/hardware to find a workflow that suits YOU. My question would be, how much manipulation are you doing in a darkroom for your current work? If it's nothing other than dropping off the film, and later picking out shots to blow up, you may very well find that the in-camera controls for the pictures and jpegs direct from the camera are the way to go for you. You could start by taking your current work, digitizing it to a TIFF, and starting to work with them. Admitedly manipulating RAWs is the way to go, but it would be nice to find a way to get your feet wet without having to take the plunge and buy a laptop and software. You may find that the laptop and software cost MORE than a D700 and are much more baffling to use than the camera.<br>

My suggestion would be to write out your current workflow and work with knowledgebe people to get the digital equivalent of it. I have taken a simplistic approach, I do minimal manipulation on the computer. Oh, don't get me wrong, I have calibrated my monitor, and do color correction, and do HDRs, panos and pano HDRs, but there is MUCH more than that available if you want to really get into Photoshop. Luckily, there are some incredibly knowledgeble people posting on the site that can provide VERY GOOD advice.</p>

<p>I have one and use it extensively as a walk around. A very good lens for what it is, and does. Mine now needs to be cleaned since it has dust inside which shows as soft spots at very high f stops. I can also see the dust in the lens. I will probably have to send it in as the last zoom lens disassemble/clean/reassmble was not good.</p>

<p>Yes, I use the 70-300 G AF-S VR all the time on my F100. Works great.</p>

<p>You can configure the camera to do it three ways on a D200, aperture ring on lens, or sub-commmand wheel, or command wheel (by reversing default functions of sub-command and command controls). I assume the D90 is the same way.</p>

<p>I have a 24-85 AF-S, but I generally use it on a F100, and not on a DSLR. It's just not wide enough for a DX format DSLR. OTher than that, it's a nice lens once it's stopped down a bit.</p>

<p>I use the D200 and the F100. I'm going to agree with Lex. THe D200 is the DX equivalent of the F100 which makes the D300 and the D700 more like F100+ for the DX and FX format.</p>

<p>Your real question should be longevity. I wonder how long the CCD or CMOS chip will last on any dSLR. I honest DO NOT expect them to last as long as an F100. The nice thing about a film camera is that the imaging element is brand new every time you use it.</p>

<p>OK, that image was probably too large, sorry about that...</p>

<p>All my old photos would be Canon, I switched to Nikon when I went digital in 2006. This is BW, F100, 105f2.5 AIS:</p><div></div>

<p>Here are some web sites for monitor calibration by eye:</p>

<p>http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/Calibration/monitor_black.htm<br>

http://www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints1A.html<br>

http://epaperpress.com/monitorcal/</p>

<p>These generally try to set black point, white point, and gamma, so these may not help for color calibration. For that, you need to use a calibration tool.</p>

<p>I have not had either of these lenses. I'd shot both for a while and see which does a better job.</p>

<p>You don't suppose using HSM let them squeeze in that constant f3.5?</p>

<p>I'd like to get the Sigma 12-24 for FX. Are they coming out with a new one of those?</p>

<p>Nice shots Doug. And some way cool riding!</p>

<p>OK, so MUP can be used with the interval timer which can be used with auto-bracketing. Man, this is freaking fantastic camera!</p>

<p>It is possible to combine bracketing and using the interval timer shooting so that's another option. I'm going to do more checking and see if you can combine MUP with interval shooting and auto bracketing.</p>

<p>I wonder - is it possible to bracket and use the intervolometer at the same time? I'll give it a try on my D200 today...</p>

<p>I agree with Michael on this one. Get a real backpack and padded pouches for your gear. Get one that can be chinched down like for skiing so that your load wont be able to shift around on you. There are some killer backpacks made in Montana (my favorite is Dana Design, but he closed up shop years ago), you should be able to find some that fit your requirements.</p>

<p>Off. Unless it's very sunny and your shooting landscapes all day.</p>

<p>Congratulations! The D200 is a great camera.</p>

<p>The AF 50/1.8 D lens just takes 52mm threaded hoods in the filter threads so both the HR-1 and the HR-2 should fit. I'm still using an inexpensive 52mm screw-in rubber hood I picked up over twenty years ago for a Canon 50/1.4 FD.</p>