f._william_baker

Contact the Paramount Company. They're in the new York area. I'm pretty sure they have a web site or you can get their phone number from the B&H listing of vendors (www.bhphotovideo.com). Paramount can make up any kind of sync cord that you desire.

Good Luck!

Ditto....both Kodak and Fuji single sheet Quick/Ready loads work fine in my 545i. Just take your time and don't get in a hurry.

Good Luck!

I installed a Beatie screen on my Master Technika and now I rarely have to a darkcloth. It's at least 2 stop brighter than the standard Linhof screen. It was well worth the cost.

Good Luck, F. William Baker

Bryan,

I shoot for several galleries for their catalogues and have been doing so for several years. The only way to get high quality transparencies for reproduction is to control the light source. I polorize the light source and the lens to eliminate reflections from the surface of the paintings. Because canvases may tend to bow slighhtly the polorization is a necessity, also some paintings have very shiny paint on them. I use 2400 watt seconds of strobe power with 2 heads at 45º angles from the painting. I prefer strobe over hot lights as I can get repeatable results without cooking my polorizing material placed over the light source as it is expensive. I don't know how you could use day light without a lot of white reflector cards. With the lighting as above I am shooting at � 16.3 to 22.6 at 1/125 with either a 210mm or a 120 Macro depending on the size of the painting. Last week 16 small paintings - 8x10 to 16x20 inches out of frame. The week before several large paintings up to 4x8 feet.

Good Luck. Please feel free to E-mail me if you need more information.

Chambre technique? Technical room? C'est vrai?????

Theo,

Bob is certainly correct in all of the technical and electrical aspects of strobe design. All I'm saying is that in the "real" world I consistently get F 45 at 8 to 10 feet with ISO 100 speed and then I can dial down as needed. While there are many excellent brands made in the USA and elsewhere and there are some that are "hipper/cooler" than others I chose Speedotron after owning Broncolor and using other brands as well. I have no financial interest in their company I just know that I will get consistant and reliable results with Speedotron products. The same holds true for my Leicas, Rolleiflex, Hasselblad and of course for my Linhof Master Technika. All tools that I have chosen for their reliability etc.... Rent as many brands as you can before you buy.

Best of Luck,

F. William Baker

Atelier 5.6 Photography

P.S. - This is not a battery pack mono-light, it requires power from the mains or a generator.

You should take a look at the Speedotron Force 10 monolight. It has a guide # of 540 at 10 feet with ISO 100 speed film. 6 F stop range in either 1/3 or 1/6 increments. The modeling light dims as you dial the power down. Has beep sound when re-charged, built in slave and has a screw thread on the reflector to vary the spread of the light. I've had Speedotron products for years and they are built like a tank. I've had the Force 10 since they came out several years ago and I'm getting ready to order another to add to my kit. On shoots where I'm firing 50+ shots, I've never had a meter reading vary over 1/10 of an F stop. B&H and other vendors usually sell this unit for around $750 US. The name Force 10 stands for 1000ws but this baby puts out more light than other units rated at 1600 or 2000ws.

Good Luck,

F. William Baker

Atelier 5.6 Photgraphy

I have used both Kodak and Fuji single sheet films in the Polaroid 545i holder. Both sets of instructions say that the 545i willl work. Also, I have had no "film flatness" problems with either chrome or negative film. Just take your time when loading and pulling from holder.

Good Luck!

Go to K Mart and go to the gun department and ask for a "MTM Sportsman's Dry Box". It is used for carrying shot gun shells and will cost you $6 to $8. It holds 2o - 25 4x5 holders plus 2 boxes of film. It has a rubber O ring gasket inside the hinged lid, also a nice folding handle that lies flat when stored. It is water resistant and seals very tight to keep out dust. I've given up on Igloo coolers as this is a better alternative. If someone manufactured this and called it a "Dry Film Box" they would probably charge $40+ for it and get it. Good Luck F. William Baker

Fuji NPH 400 is great...Like you I only do weddings as favors to very

good friends. NPH is very fine grained and will easily go to 8x10

with no problem. You'd be surprised what some regular wedding

photographers charge...lots of $$$$$'s

 

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Good Luck

FWB

The KEH in Dallas was owned by the wife of the owner of KEH in

Atlanta. I assume (just guessing) that the stock from Dallas was

transfered to Atlanta. Maybe they could help you. If not try Leica

in NJ.

 

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Good Luck,

 

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FWB

Maybe Phil got run over by a Matchless G-50 after he staggered home

from the pub while being seduced by the smell of Castrol "R" bean oil.

 

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Gotta love the TT.....

 

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FWB

World Cup.........5 hours and counting......

 

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Just a thought...How many Film shooters vs. Digital shooters at this World Cup?? Let alone Leica shooters?? There's still gotta be a few shooting film as a possible secondary system.. Anyway, let's hope.

 

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France vs. Portugal in the Final......you heard it here first.....

 

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Good Luck to All,

 

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FWB

Hi all,

Does the M6 meter read correctly when using B&W filers (black and white filters - NOT B+W brand), or is there a sensitivity or lack of when using yellow, orange or red. I tend to argue with my M6 meter occasionly and sometimes I even win....With my hand held meter I've been using a factor of 1 stop for yellow, 2 for orange and 3 for red far into the last century. The M6 meter will sometimes read the same for the yellow as well as the orange and obviously there is more density to the orange. Any other experiences or opinions or should I just use either my M3, M4, or M4-P with my hand held meter like in the good ol' days??

merci en advance....

FWB

 

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P.S. - Sorry but any answer also on accuracy of Nikon F5 Matrix metering with B&W filters would also be appreciated. Occasionally we all have to shoot long or zoom lenses with these new bulky, heavy AF contraptions...... My Nikon bag with F5 and 17-35, 28-70 and 80-200 weighs almost as much as my Linhof bag with 4 lenses..who woulda thunk it??

I've had my legs and ball head since the early 70's. Still have the

box for the tripod with a $15.00 US price sticker on it. I found the

short version of the ball head a few years ago at a swap meet, the

one that is "blued" à la a gun barrel. It was only 1½ - 2 inches

shorter. Looked cool with the blueing but the ball was smooth , not

knurled like the ball on the taller model so it wouldn't lock down

quite as tight. I sold it to a collector who couldn't live without

it and made a few bucks for extra beers. I still see these

occasionally at camera shows. Good Luck. FWB

Ilford is 10 like Agfa. Most small stores will usually give you 5 -

10% if you buy a brick (5%for 10, 10% for 20). But I don't think B&H

will discount on this small a quantity. Last time I bought 40 rolls

of Agfa B&W (120) it was $2.09 a roll, the same as 1 roll. The same

for Agfa chrome. For Fuji, I bought 20 roll of Provia 100 - 36 and

they shipped me the imported (gray) type, which I'm sure is the same

but there was a little note saying that they were shipped in cans

only without the paper box because they buy it in 50 roll "Pro Packs"

and my order was less than that. At $4.19 per roll I thought this was

a bargain considering the cost of chrome these days. It shot fine

and my E6 lab says that they can't tell the difference between USA

and Imported emulsions.

 

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Good Luck. FWB

Another suggestion that is certainly not the same but harkens back to

Steichen and other pioneers would be a pinhole. Soft/sharp and

interesting effects but you need lots of light/time of exposure.

Again for $34-3500.00 a lot of good used or new soft focus lenses

could be had. Also, a #3 shutter has a slow top speed of 1/125

which could also limit shooting at the wide open � stop of 4.5. You

may have to invest in several ND filters if you're doing landscapes

or outdoor portraits.

 

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Again, Good Luck.

FWB

I hope you're sitting down when you see the price for the new Cooke

soft focus �4.5 229mm Portrait lens. It's $3500.00US at Badger when

available. I'd play with soft focus or fog filters or scarch-up an

old UV filter or panty hose or mesh to get the same or close effects

for a lot less.

Good Luck nad I hope you win the Lotto..

FWB

I agree that Optima 100 is a great film. I've only got 2 boxes of

4x5 left since it's not available in the US now. I'm going to write

a nasty letter to AGFA. I've been using their products since the

60's as my main choice of photo supplier. 1st they did away with

Brovira # 6, then APX 25, now paper selection in B&W is getting

limited. It appears that the only 4x5 film still available in the US

is RSX 100 chrome, again which is my primary chrome when I need

accurate not overly saturated true color. It's a pity that AGFA is

trimming the line.

 

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FWB

I use "Picto" when in Paris for E6. I showed them my business card

and they discounted the processing about the same as the TVA (20%).

Processing took about 3 hours as I remember.

 

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On film, I would buy upon arrival just to be safe.

 

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Good Luck,

FWB

Here's Chatterton's #'s - Tel - 253-549-7900 Fax - 253-549-7771

 

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I've bought both Leica and Hasselblad items from Don and have always

considered his selling prices and grading very fair..but I have never

sold to him. It would be interesting to see the "other side of the

coin"..If you mcan't find a buyer here or on E bay and go with him,

let everyone know with a posting if you think his buying prices are

fair....

 

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Good Luck,

FWB

 

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P.S. I hope you don't have to sell your stuff for financial reasons.

Leica goodies should be used and then passed down to deserving family

members or friends.

I agree with the other answers......most labs will make the contact

sheet with the negs in "Printfiles" and they will appear soft. You

can request/make the labs shoot the contacts out of the printfiles

using just the glass frame, but they will most likely charge you

several $'s more per contact sheet. I also wonder that since most

labs are now doing dry to dry processing, in other words NO wet

developing and possibly some type of digital processing if this isn't

the reason. I use BWC in Dallas and they got ride of all their wet

darkrooms about 2 years ago. If you have a dust problem or a

scratching problem, I suggest you have the lab process the negs and

then contact yourself. Good Luck. FWB

The # 12504 is the better lens hood for either 35mm Summicron or 35mm

Summilux (both older formulas NOT ASPH). It is shallower yet slightly

wider than the # 12585. It makes for a more compact package and still

give good protection.

FWB

I shoot shotguns and leicas and nikons with both eyes open. I'm right

eyed dominant. It takes a bit of practice but this allows you to see

what's going on with your other eye especially when shooting action

or during mirror black out on SLR. I still favor my right eye so the

balance is probably something like 60/40. I know several video/film

news cinematographers (sic) and they have told me that they have

trained themselves to keep both eyes open while filming. If I shot

left-eyed with an M I'd be putting my thumb in my right eye while

advancing the film. I guess the right answer is do what feels

right/OK to you.......

FWB

Since you get a free Noctilux, what's the price of the house?

Might be a bargin.....

 

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And who is Francios??

 

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I thought the gentleman's name was François....

 

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FWB