f._william_baker

This same thing happened to me while shooting in a hot enviornment. Drops of sweat dripped down and found their way in between the sandwich of glasses/plastic of the screen. I cleaned it with distilled water and then used compressed air to blow out as much excess water as possible. Then I used a hair dryer carefully and in several sessions so I wouldn't overheat or warp the screen. This worked fine and haven't had any problems since. Good Luck, FWB

Simple Answer: No

Walter,

As you, my favorite film was APX 100 in 35mm, 120 and 4x5. Also RSXll 100 in transparency film. I wrote to AGFA on their web site bemoaning the fact that I had been a loyal user of their products since the 60's and reminded them of the great products that they had discontinued over the years such as Brovira #6 and other warm and cold tone fiber papers as well as the B&W films and RSX ll 100 in sheet film. I also said that they had the unenviable position of having the worst marketing department in the photo industry. On their web site it stated that they would respond within 2 business days. It's been 3 weeks and nothing from AGFA. Like a lot of us, we will need to search and do film tests (not one of my most favorite things) of Fuji or Ilford or Bergger or someone else to find a substitute. Next I hope that they don't drop Rodinal. Please post if you get times for Ilford or other films in rotary processing with Rodinal. Thanks and Good Luck to all of us loyal AGFA users. FWB

Thanks for all the answers and advice from all. That's why this is a great forum. In reading the answers/suggestions I found that as I suspected the gap is too close from 210mm to 305mm for what I want to do. As I said I need something to purchase this year for tax purposes so as I have enough Leica and Nikon stuff as well as the Hassey that I don't use that much it looks like more Speedotron stuff. With do the lens next year. Thanks again for all the info. FWB

I need info from any users of Fuji 240mm �9 A lens. One question is

do I really need to fill the gap between my 210mm Symmar and my 305mm

G-Claron. I'm looking to lighten my load when out shooting

landscapes. Also, I can always use the purchase on my 2003 taxes.

Lens will be used on Master Technika. Thanks in advance for any and

all comments. FWB

Gary,

I do a lot of shooting of paintings (flat subjects) for art galeries as well as sculptures for catalogues. Polarizing both the light source and the lens works best for flat subjects and is "catch as catch can" for 3 dimensional objects. A soft box diffuses the light to such a degree that it can make the polarizer moot. As someone said above, the highlights (glare) can be your friend to accent where you want. Good Luck...........FWB

CL, The reflected flat black disc with a small hole in the center turns the meter into a reflected light reading meter. Make sure that you specify that this disc is for the VF and not the IVF as they are different. There is also a flat disc with a white insert that is used for flat subjects such as paintings but this also makes checking light ratios much easier. I use both of these as well as the standard half white dome that comes with the meter. I have never used the 5º attachment as I have a Minolta 1º spot meter. This is an excellent meter. Good Luck. FWB

Todd,

I've been buying RSX-ll - 100 ISO from B&H for $64.95 for 50 sheets 4x5 for several years. I think that they order directly from Germany to be able to offer this price, so.......they may be temporarily out of stock. I usually order 2 to 4 boxes at a time. I hope that B&H will still carry it as it is one of my favorite NON-saturated chromes. Provia seems my 2nd choice. Good Luck, FWB

Linhof, through HP Marketing, their USA importer, offers a special price for students. I'm sure that Bob S of HP Marketing will give you the details when he sees this post. As a Linhof user for many years there is almost nothing made to the same precision and high standards. (I had a Sinar but went back to Linhof). Good Luck with your decision. FWB

Raid,

I have a Rollei 2.8 F Planar vintage 1962 and there is some slight seperation in the taking lens. I've had the camera for almost 8 years now and it gets more use than my Hasselblad outfit. To test if there was any effect from the slight seperation such as flare etc... I took several shots of a fountain with lots of spraying water and reflections while facing directly into the sun. The transparencies were perfect with no flare or ghosting. I've made portraits with this Rollei up to 20 X 24 and 30 X 40 with no problem.

I checked with a Rollei repair person and they said not to worry about it unless you can see bad effects from the seperation. Test your camera under different conditions to see if it is OK.

Good Luck, FWB

Bob, What is the approx. price for the Wista Extension Board that will fit my Master? I want to use my 305 G-Claron.

merci en advance, FWB

P.S. - As on another thread..........Thank you so very much for answering all questions. It seems as you said that you do this 24/7/365 for all of us and from me it is VERY appreciated. You are just like a Linhof, engineered with precision and quality.

Why all you guys want a digital M is way beyond me. As a dedicated Leica and Nikon shooter since the mid 60's and a Hasselblad, Rolleiflex TLR and Linhof shooter since the early 70's I still think that film is superior and has a magic that links us with the alchemists as well as the great photographers. Granted if you are shooting sports etc. when you need to get it on the wire or the internet in virtual real time but most old geezers as well as some young one use their Leicas et al for their intended purpose e.g. street shooting, discrete and quiet portraits or whatever. The demise of film is not eminent in the near future, but all this digital talk may hasten it. If you need a digital file scan it as the other man said. I can't afford nor would I buy a digital back for the Hasselblad or the 4x5 at the current prices as they are ridiculous. So for my catalogue shots I scan. For a mere $14.95 I can have a 36 exp roll of either chrome or neg film put on a CD for digital output. Still a bargin (I also am using my array of Leica lenses) compared with the price of a Nikon D1 X or H (with that silly 1 to 1.5 ratio)or the new Kodak 14 mp that still has a lot of kinks to be ironed out.

Leicas are made for what they are made for be it my trusty IIIFRD or my M3, M4's or M6. Digital, Smigital............Film rules!

Good Luck to All.

FWB

After you pull out the dark slide it makes a great lens shade...

Go to the Large Format site on photo.net and post this and ask for Bob Saloman (sic) of HP Marketing (BOB IS THE LINHOF AUTHORITY) HP is the USA importer. He can assist with serial #'s and dates of manufacture etc.... Even for a "Baby Technika" the price that you quoted seems too low for all that you have...............but compared to Technika's in 4x5 the demand is not as great for the 2x3. Best of Luck and go shoot some snaps...

F. William Baker - Atelier 5.6

I hope that you are planning to use this in the studio. This is most likely the most sophisticated, finest view camera ever made but it is a beast as it weighs 29 lbs./13 Kg without a lens. This isn't made to lug around for landscapes unless you have a mule or several assistants or you are a weight lifter. Great camera but it's a handful with the several lenses you will need. Good Luck, FWB

I agree with you about the "modern" holders. That is why I continue to search the older wooded holder with the metal loop to pull the dark slide and the screws that are tight. On my modern holders I have started to use rubber bands to secure the dark slide in place. Please let us know if there is a thread locking liquid (locktite??)

Good Luck, FWB

Lot's of shops on Blvd. Beaumarchais or Blvd des Filles-du-Calvaire......don't miss Maison du Leica, Metro - Chemin Vert..also across the street from the Harley shop in Paris where you can get those lovely $38.00US/�36.00 T-Shirts for all the gang back home. Best lab for E-6 is "Picto" near the Bastille - 5 min walk...

Good Luck.....FWB

Jerry,

I don't know about Ft. Worth itself, but in Dallas most of the pros use BWC on Maple Ave. across from Elliot's Hardware. The E-6 direct phone number is: 214-522-6199 and the pro counter is: 214-561-2952. 2 hour turn around on E-6. I've been using them for years for both E-6 and color neg and B&W.

Good Luck.......FWB

Just remove the small screw and snug up the retaining ring tight and start shooting after you have positioned the front of the shutter so that the f stop and shutter speed settings are where you can read/reach them. Good Luck.

F. William Baker

Testors red model airplane paint. Or, Leitz/Leica in New Jersey will send you some if you call them.......

Good Luck,

F. William Baker

Atelier 5.6 Photography

For either Ebony or Arca Swiss look at Badger Graphics. I have purchased several lenses (Rodenstock, Schneider, Linhof stuff) etc. and prices are usually less than B&H.

Plus being in Texas also, no sales tax!

Good Luck,

F. William Baker

Atelier 5.6 Photography

You should be able to find a Dual Range Summicron for $500. The bug eyes for close focusing may be had for an extra $75.00 - $100. This chrome lens looks perfect for the M3 and is still the standard 50mm that others are judged against.

 

Good Luck

F. William Baker

Atelier 5.6 Photography

A friend purchased a used V35 Leica Enlarger in Prague. He came back

to the States and brought the 40mm enlarging lens with him to print

in his darkroom in Dallas on his Beseler 23C. He tells me that he

can't get it to focus on anything bigger than a 5x7 print as he

compresses the bellows all the way in and it still won't focus. I

have a Focomat1C with the 50mm 4.5 Leitz enlarging lens and I use it

on both my 1C and my Beseler 23C and my 4x5 Beseler MCRX and have

never had a problem. Does any body know if the 40mm lens needs a

recessed lens board for the 23C?? My only experience with recessed

lens boards are for wide angle lens on my Linhof and they are a real

pain.

merci en advance,

F. William Baker

I have a 75mm Grandagon on a recessed board for my Master and I take my ball point pin out of my pocket to adjust the � stop and the diaphram open/close lever. I have a right angle PC connection so the synch cord is no problem. I also use the Linhof "widget" system of the mechanical linkage with the tip on the cable release to trip the shutter. Once you get this adjusted it works fine. Good Luck.

F. William Baker

This is a large source of my income as a photographer. As the above responces say, you need to set the lights at 45º and to do it properly you MUST polorize both the light source and the lens. I use at least 2400 watt seconds of power from strobes to be able to shoot at � 16 - 22. I use either a 120mm Macro or a 210mm depending on the size of the painting. I also shoot several densities of the chromes at 1/3 stop increments as some printers prefer a "bang on" transparency and others print better from a slightly lighter one. This also depends on the colors in the painting. Good luck as while this may seem simple it can be very perplexing at times.

F. William Baker