marco_deveer

The crop marks should change (get smaller) when you change settings from 100 to 150 and 250. Your image also doesn't show the rangefinder rectangle in the center of the frame that would indicate correct focus.

 

Thanks, good to know. The focus area is in the photo but it's a small circle just above center, kinda hard to see. It does appear to function properly when I focus the lens, but I will have to run a test roll to know for sure.

The 100mm f/3.5 lens is supposed to be retractable for use with the Press Super 23 bellows feature, but I can't figure out how to make mine do that. It came locked in the normal forward position: twisting and turning doesn't budge it, and there doesn't seem to be a latch or button. When retracted, the rangefinder is supposed to turn half-red.

 

Ah, that is great info @orsetto and a beautiful camera you have there! There definitely appears to be something wrong with my camera. The frame lines don't change at all when I slide the focal length indicator between 100-150-250. I opened up the top viewfinder housing and didn't see any broken or disconnected bits, but it did seem like there were some pieces plain missing. I think I might have to find an interior shot of the housing to figure out this mystery. By the way my camera is all black so definitely a different version than the one you have. I have a Graflex back, but otherwise it looks just like yours.

 

The 100mm lenses were not all made to be retractable, some are fixed and are generally newer and better than the retractable variety. If you have the retractable version it should twist and pop in or out fairly easily. If it doesn't do that it's probably not the retractable version.

I'm looking through my new (old) Mamiya Universal Press and I'm wondering how the cropping lines function. I notice they move when I focus the lens, but I don't see any change when I move the slider from 100 to 150 to 250. Am I wrong or should the crop marks in the viewfinder change when I adjust the slider?

 

Hi all,

Anybody have a Mamiya Polaroid 600SE 127mm f4.7 for parts they'd like to get off their hands? I specifically need the rear element. Willing to buy.

Can you find just one line where the frames separate? If you can find one then all the lines will correspond equally to that one. What you can do is note on the film how many sprockets to the right or left of the frame number indicator the separation line is. For example the separation line might be 2 and a half sprockets to the right of the number 3 (indicated on the bottom of the film strip). Every separation line will be 2 and a half sprockets to the right of its corresponding number on the bottom of the film strip.

 

Or if you can find one separation line, you can place another, well-exposed strip of film on top or below the thin strip of film to indicate where the lines would be.

 

If you can't find any lines you could make one print at 35mm negative size from one of the scans and use something in the image to line it up with the negative image, thus revealing where the edge of the image would be. Then use one of the methods above for the rest of the strip of film.

Hi all,

I have the Mamiya Press 127mm f4.7 and it's developed a bit of oil on the shutter blades. Shutter speeds are still good, but I want to get at it and clean it before it gets worse. I've gotten the front element off but I cant get the next element below it. I've tried rubber grip tools to no avail and I don't see any catch for the spanner wrench. I've also tried screwing the whole front piece off with my hands, but it won't budge. I'm certain I've done this before, but maybe it was with an older model. This is the newer one, all black, and it doesn't "collapse."

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the info everyone. I appreciate the detailed response, Rodeo_Joe.

I just picked up a Mamiya 65mm for my Universal Press camera. When I set the aperture to wide open (f6.3) the blades in the lens do not open all the way, they appear to still be closed just a slight bit. I can't find any info online, but I found

and the aperture on the lens in the video does exactly what mine does. You can see at about the 50 second mark that he opens the shutter and the aperture is clearly still closed a bit despite being set wide open to f6.3.

 

Everything else about the lens seems perfect, and there is no oil or grease on the aperture blades.

 

Does anyone have experience with this lens, or does anyone have one you can check and see what the aperture does at f6.3?

 

Much appreciated.

<p>Craig, I'm eyeing a C330 on ebay, but might do some shopping around locally first and see what's around in people's garages and attics. Craigslist, here I come.<br>

Good to hear, Tony, I'm excited to get it mounted and shooting.<br>

Thanks for all the info.</p>

<p>Thanks Craig. Good to know.</p>

<p>Hey all, I've got a 65mm f3.5 Mamiya TLR lens. It's all black, Seiko shutter, blue dot on the shutter cocking mechanism, looks and works beautiful. I just need a camera to put it on.<br /><br />Any ideas which Mamiya TLR cameras this beauty is compatible with?<br>

I know it will work with the C220 and C330 cameras, but I wouldn't mind using it on a C2, C3, C22 or C33 if everything will work properly. <br /><br /><br>

Thanks.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>"Also, is it possible to remove this dark slide holder? I think it looks just plain ugly piece of plastic attached to a beautiful camera... "</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I appreciate Andreas' sentiment. In addition to some other wonderful features I, and many Hasselblad users love the system because it is beautiful. My most coy models open up for this camera. If you don't want that ugly piece of plastic on your camera start wearing a nice button down shirt and stick that dark slide in your front pocket. Best thing about button downs? When you get hot you can open up the top buttons and cool off quick - everyone loves a man who's willing to show some chest! It's the Middle Eastern look, it's the presidential visiting- hurricane-devastation look, it screams "I'm a hard working, serious, professional photographer who also happens to know how to loosen up a bit."<br>

And you'll know where your dark slide is.</p>

<p>Hey I see this is an old post and all, but if anyone comes across it out of need, let me tell ya what's going on.<br>

When using those crazy little disposable pads with certain chemicals they will get totally trashed and leave nasty scum on your lens. Sometimes yes, sometimes no. If you see this happen don't get all worked up and clean til ya scratch the lens, just grab a CLOTH lens wipe and you'll see your troubles wash away.<br>

Some people like cloth, some like pads, but I'll tell ya what - sometimes the situation calls for one over the other, and I always carry both!</p>

<p>Thanks Dieter, that's great info!<br>

A Leica cell phone, Sanford - Sounds great, but I'll only buy it if it has rotary dialing.</p>

<p>Jim, thanks, that's about what I paid for it, as well.<br>

Dieter, are you seeing the same one I have pictured or is it the upgraded zoom model? I've sen several listings for the zoom at around that price but none for this one. I think the zoom also had nearly double the mp (gasp!).<br>

My phone takes better pictures than this camera, but my phone is no Leica! Seriously, the first Leica digital point and shoot is only worth $50-60. Ah, what are these times we live in? Maybe I'll just give it to my grand kid to play with.</p>

<p>Ah yes, the S1, wow that seems like centuries ago! Well that beastie sure wouldn't fit in my camera bag, but I bet it made some nice pics - over 20mp I believe.<br>

By the way this digilux is definitely Fujifilm. The batteries are all fujifilm and on the serial number bar it says "Made in Japan for Leica by Fuji Photo Film Co., Ltd."<br>

As far as a new home, I'm game for offers if they're fair market value. I've looked for this camera on eBay and Amazon and found nothing, nor on any photo forums. Any idea what it might be worth?</p>

<p>Here's my Leica Digilux, clocking in at 1.5mp!</p><div></div>

<p>Howdy folks, I've got a Leica Digilux 1.5mp point and shoot. Is this Leica's first digital camera? I got it way back in the 90's. Anyone have an idea what this thing is worth? Anybody want it? It's a genuine Leica so it's bound to be a collector's item some day. A diamond in the rough, or just an outdated hunk of junk? You tell me...</p>

<p>So you had to wait 11+ years for this link which explains it perfectly...<br>

<a href="http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?MamiyaRB67.html~mainFrame">"your dream come true"</a></p>

<p>Now ain't that a big promise. Well if you don't see the link just copy all the mumbo-jumbo to your browser and you will be pleased to find the source.<br>

cheers.</p>

<p>So you had to wait 11+ years for this link which explains it perfectly...<br>

<a href="http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?MamiyaRB67.html~mainFrame">"your dream come true"</a></p>

<p>Now ain't that a big promise. Well if you don't see the link just copy all the mumbo-jumbo to your browser and you will be pleased to find the source.<br>

cheers.</p>

<p>Howdy folks, I'm always trying to catch up to you camera geniuses out there, but doubt I ever will. In the mean time can anyone tell me a good book to read about the Mamiya system. I'm looking for something along the lines of the "Hasselblad Compendium" by Richard Nordin, or the "Nikon Master's Handbook" by Pete Braczko, something more about history, chronology, etc, not so much how to use stuff, I want to know what's what and where it fits in to the system, lots of pictures of the gear not pictures taken with the gear. The newer the better. Someday someone will ask me about that weird little doohicky they found in their great uncle's basement. Until then, I'm asking you. Thanks.</p>

Hey, Great info Gents. Thanks. Let me know if any of you find a purple FM with orange lettering. Seriously, that Lupita FM2 is snazzy.

Let me know if you find out anything else.

Howdy folks, I got this local dealer with a Nikon FM2 on the shelf. Love those old cameras, delicious. But, hey, what's up with the red

letters? We can't figure out where they came from. Did someone paint them? Was it manufactured that way? Anybody know anything

about Nikon FM2's with red letters? Serial number is something like 7105000 range, I can't remember the exact digits at the end. All the

letters and numbers are red, The large "FM2" on the front, the "Nikon" on the prism finder, the serial number, even the white line on the self

timer switch, are all red, not your usual white.

 

Thanks Y'all.

Do it. Accept it. And Bill 'em. Darlin' they should be paying for the value of anything you give them. If they can copy and

copy and copy these DVD's they should be paying a bundle. I've never done a DVD for any kind of client (don't do

weddings), but if it were easy for someone to copy my prints I would be charging them ten times what I am now - wouldn't

that be sweet? Look at it as a good thing, you get all the money up front.