tom_boston1

<p>What camera were you using? This is more difficult to do with Nikon's pro and pro-sumer bodies because changing the mode requires pressing a button while rotating the dial.</p>

<p>Could be sticky aperture blades. </p>

<p>Try testing with manual mode to reduce variations caused by the camera's auto-exposure system. And shoot with smaller apertures which should exaggerate problems caused by sticky blades.</p>

<p>You can also try looking in front of the lens while pressing and releasing the preview button to see if the blades are working. Again, this is most easily seen with smaller apertures.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Even if it isn't USM, the Canon 50/1.8 _does_ have a built-in motor.</p>

<p>I've had two or three opportunities to handle various models of Canon Rebels. I am one of those photographers who does not enjoy them.</p>

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<p>if you bothered taking the time to look at the various videos.</p>

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<p>That's the problem with videos. You have to be bothered to take the time to receive the information at whatever pace the video tells it, not to mention the hassle involved with stopping mid-video and finishing it later or even quickly skimming the material to decide if it's worth the bother in the first place.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>The link given in the original posting is spam with a parked for-sale domain containing random advertisements.</p>

<p>I'll assume Bruce gave the wrong link because he's been here on photo.net for a while.</p>

<p>But no sense for anyone else to waste their time looking for these "great" videos. (sarcasm)</p>

<p> </p>

<p>It's unreasonable to expect that they replace your D5000 with a D7000. The D5100 for the D5000 is more than fair.</p>

<p>At best, you might have asked to pay the price difference between the 7000 and 5100.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Since you have a memory card that fails, could you try one good card and one bad card in backup mode (writing to both cards)? Presumably, you'll get one card with good files and a second card with corrupted files, which is one of the points of using dual slots. :-)</p>

<p>I tried bracketing with my D300 and 17-55/2.8. I can still change the aperture in the middle of a bracketing series. But I didn't try this with auto ISO on.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>60 day warranty or 60 day return?</p>

<p>Exif information reads 1/8000, f/2.8 at ISO 400 (requested ISO 3200).</p>

<p>@Elliot - What kind of weird images did you get before the shutter failed? I'd expect bad shutters to show things like random shadows caused by loose blades. However, the exif also does show 137,999 clicks which is a fair amount of use.</p>

<p>The one time (maybe twice) I've seen this sort of thing with my own gear, I attributed the problem to the memory card.</p>

<p>So before going through the hassle of returning the camera for a repair, I'd make an attempt to reproduce the problem with a different memory card, as well using the dual memory slots.</p>

<p>What brand, size, and speed card are you using?</p>

<p>Check for dirty contacts. </p>

<p>Did you buy the camera and lens together both new?</p>

<p>Is this a new problem? How long has it been happening?</p>

<p>Depends on the wording of the contract. If a photographer uploads an image to an online stock agency, the photographer may have to certify that the necessary model releases have been obtained. If model releases haven't been obtained in that situation, it becomes the photographer's problem.</p>

<p>So it's inaccurate to flatly state it's automatically the venue's responsibility. Maybe it is. Maybe it isn't.</p>

<p>If the photographer is providing images and reuse rights to the venue, can there be an assumption that the photographer has acquired the necessary releases? Sure. The comparison to giving snapshots to friends does not apply because the friend does not have permission to use the photos in an advertising context. </p>

<p>What does existing case law say when the contract doesn't explicitly make a statement. I don't know. To prevent problems downstream, the contract ought to specify whether or not the images are model released.</p>

<p>I know this wasn't the question you were asking, but if the venue is using these images in advertising, will the venue have permission from everyone who appears in any of the images? Will you or the venue be responsible for the necessary model releases?</p>

<p>@John - In Massachusetts, do you know if an image provided to a publication as a freelancer is exempt? Does it matter if the image is provided on a tangible medium, like a CD, or an intangible medium, like email?</p>

<p>Of course I will fully check this with a the state department of revenue and/or an accountant.</p>

<p> </p>

Everone is focused on the pins. Don't forget to examine the edges of the slot that guide the camera into place.

Maybe there is a burr or other obstruction there.

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<p>This sounds very much like a switch problem. If the contacts are dirty or corroded the processor may not read the correct setting and think the switch is in the Manual position when it isn't.</p>

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<p>A dirty contact could even cause the processor to read no setting at all. This would be consistent with the blinking meter on the top. Normally, the blinking meter means there's not enough light for the metering system to work. But the processor might also use the blinking meter to signal an invalid input on the CSM switch.</p>

<p>A (temporary?) work around you can try is in the Autofocus custom menu and turn the "AF Activation" setting to off. This will disable the shutter button from activating autofocus. Put the autofocus switch to C. </p>

<p>With this configuration, you can get single-servo type AF behavior by pressing and releasing the rear AF switch with your thumb. (You'll have to look at the AF dot, lower left of the viewfinder, to confirm AF lock because the beep will be disabled in C mode.) You get continuous AF behavior by holding the AF switch down.</p>

<p>If using the camera this way eliminates the intermittent behavior, it will be a strong indicator that the problem is the S position AF switch contact.</p>

<p>Any repair that requires disassembly of the camera is going to start at $150 - $250 dollars. (I recently paid $250 to fix a loose internal connection on my D700 hot shoe.</p>

<p>If you go the repair route, it's worth checking "Authorized Photo Service" which was formerly Nikon's midwest repair facility. They will give you an estimate over the phone.</p>

<p>Sylvio hasn't said if he's gone into the Flash menu to check whether the popup flash is set to TTL mode. If were set to manual mode, it's possible, maybe even likely, that the return light won't be detected since it isn't needed. (but I'm too lazy to do my own experiment to find out)</p>

<p>And he hasn't said if he's tried a Factory reset by simultaneously pressing the buttons with green dots. (off the top of my head, I can't say where they are)</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Is it really the shutter staying open which would give you completely blown out exposures? Otherwise, your problem is more likely to be with the mirror not dropping.</p>

<p> </p>

For now, you should probably use "regular" RGB (I don't remember the official name right now) because that's what most of the world uses.

Did the coursework actually tell you to shoot in Adobe RGB or was it just making a blanket statement?

<p>Use manual exposure. Sounds like the rink is evenly lit and manual exposure will keep the meter from being fooled by white or black backgrounds.</p>

<p>I wouldn't use Sanford for something like that. They are a small shop with one serviceman. If parts are necessary, your repair has to wait until they place an order with Nikon. If the serviceman goes on vacation, your repair has to wait too.</p>

<p>Let's just say that I'm irked that the last time I brought a lens there I paid $25 extra for rush service that got me a ten day turn around. (The lens mount flange had gotten torn off from a camera drop.) </p>

<p>But when it was finally ready, they warned me the lens had a squeak. My options were two - 1) take the repair as is, or 2) wait for them to order a $20 part that _might_ fix the problem. But if I went with option 2 I'd have a further delay because the repairman was on vacation the next day.</p>

<p>If your lens has a US warranty, send it to Nikon. If your lens is gray market, the retailer (B&H? Adorama?) the retailer probably gives you a one year warranty and you can get it adjusted through them.</p>

<p>There is a modeling light on the SB-800. You may have accidentally press that button as Andy Szeto suggested.</p>

<p>Easy enough to test. Grey button near the hinge on the back of the camera.</p>

<p>I feel the pain. Is there any chance your insurance will cover the repair?</p>

<p>Shun's suggestion of Authorized Photo Service in Morton Grove, Illinois is the way I'd go. I've had unfortunate occasion to use them about three times in the last year and they turned each job around very quickly. </p>

<p>They used to be Nikon's Midwest service facility, they keep a large supply of Nikon parts on hand, and they work exclusively on Nikon equipment. </p>

<p>Authorized Photo Service will give you an estimate over the phone if you describe the damage - 1.800.406.2046 - If you call them, we'd be interested in hearing what they have to say.</p>

<p>Don't remember which menu it is but there's a setting called "Exposure Delay". After the mirror has gone up, there will be a delay before the shutter opens. This gives a chance for vibrations caused by the mirror slap to settle down.</p>

<p>Lilly said -</p>

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<p>As an aside, best to not shake or tilt canned-air before pulling the trigger of a 'rested' can. Fire the first spritz into thin-air to blow-out any residue, accumulated dust in the nozzle, etc. Second spritz is the money shot.</p>

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<p>It's a little bit confusing that she explains how to use canned air. You should <strong>NEVER </strong>use canned air on a sensor. I wouldn't use it inside the camera box or camera lens. Used correctly, it could be used to blow off an external lens surface but a bulb blower is cheaper and more convenient. <br>

Inside a film back would be okay but who has one of those anymore. :-)</p>