tom_boston1

<p>Useful input from everyone, thank you!<br /><br />LG - The big selling point for the Nikon 300/2.8 is the sharpness wide open at f/2.8. I already have a Sigma 100-300/4 zoom that I'm not fond off. My Nikon 70-200/2.8 + TC14EII seems to match it for sharpness. I'm a little bit of an f-stop snob and f/4 just doesn't cut it for me. And looking through the viewfinder with an f/2.8 lens is much more pleasant.<br /><br />I'd consider the Sigma 120-300/2.8 but the zoom ring turns opposite the Nikon. Yes, that's a minor quibble but it's a deal breaker for me because I'd get annoyed every time I turn the ring the wrong way.<br /><br />It does sound like there is little difference in optical quality between the the AF-I and even the newest models. That was really the big question.<br /><br />Also going against the third party lenses is that I have a little bit of a collector in me. The purchase is partly to satisfy NAS and Tamron, Sigma and Tokina just don't do it. And though I feel like I "collect" these lenses, I don't worry about using them and trying to preserve the finish for resale value.</p>

<p>If my TC14EII doesn't work with the AF-I, then that pretty much eliminates that lens makes my choice between AF-S I and AF-S II. I'd have to say I'm leaning towards the older lens right now. I'm not sure the closer focusing distance and the 1 lb weight savings justifies the price difference.<br>

<br>

Thanks again. Now I just have to find something at the best price possible!<br>

</p>

<p>By the way, both of the above photos are with a 300/2.8 I rented 5 years ago. I don't know whether it was AF-S I or AF-S II, but I really enjoyed using it.</p>

 

<p>Shun, confirmation that the optics are the same is exactly what I was looking for. </p>

<p>So how much difference in the AF-S speed is there? Does the increased speed come from the lighter mass being moved?<br /><br /><br /></p><div></div>

<p>Regarding wildlife, the interest is chiefly city wildlife. Backyard cats and that sort of thing. I wasn't planning on going safari with it. Also, I already have a TC-14E II, and then putting it on a DX body gives sufficient reach for what I want to do.<br /><br /><br /></p><div></div>

<p>I want a 300/2.8 and VR is out. It's simply too pricey for my pocketbook.</p>

<p>The only choices I'd consider are the AF-S version 1 and the AF-S version 2.</p>

<p>I know that version 2 is a bit lighter and focuses a bit closer. Otherwise, what kind of difference is there in the optics of these two beasts? I really couldn't find any reviews differentiating them.</p>

<p>Or maybe I should go for a new Sigma 120-300/2.8 and get OS to boot.</p>

<p>This is mostly to satisfy a bit of NAS. Practical applications for would be for some youth & school sports, local wildlife including the domestic variety. Maybe some portraiture though that would be overkill as I already have a 70-200.</p>

<p>Thoughts? Thanks in advance.</p>

 

<p>Ilkka, the aperture indexing tab is used by some higher end bodies a non-cpu AI lens is mounted. But obviously, it's not used at all for any of the G lenses because they don't even have an aperture ring.</p>

<p>For some of the lenses that have aperture rings but also have cpu's, i'm not sure what the case is. I think some of the bodies allow you to set the aperture from the ring instead of the subcommand dial.<br /><br />But all the lenses that the original poster is talking about are G lenses so the aperture index ring is unlikely to have any bearing on this at all.</p>

 

<p>The Nikon warranty on repairs is six months for the issue that they repaired. My understanding and experience is that they pretty much repair everything for a flat rate. </p>

<p>I recently had a situation where it took them three attempts to successfully repair the issue. They paid for all the shipping after the first repair though I did have to nag them a bit.</p>

<p>What kind of issue did they repair on the 24-70 and 105? It is also my experience that they don't seem to keep track of repairs that they've done. But if you show them the repair receipt they are very good about honoring warranties even if the warranties are slightly out of date.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>And setting F4 to AF-On automatically disables the shutter button from activating auto-focus. </p>

<p>On the D300s, you would have to use custom setting A5 to explicitly disable the shutter button from activating AF.</p>

 

<p>Backup body</p>

<ul>

<li>I like the suggestion that you shoot with the 18-270 on a single body. Keep it simple. Work with what you know.</li>

<li>You could forgo the 2nd body. Just tell them up front. "I'm thrilled to help photograph your wedding. I'm happy to do it for free. It's unlikely something will happen but I'm not a professional photographer and if the camera breaks then we are just out of luck." - My contract has a line that reads "This limitation on liability shall also apply in the event of camera or other equipment malfunctions or any other circumstances beyond the photographer’s control"<br /></li>

<li>Try to get a backup body anyway. Is it possible another guest would let you use their camera in a pinch? Is there someone you know who can lend you something?</li>

<li>Worse case is buy a used body at KEH for about $325. But if you were spending that much, a better use of the money would be to buy a new SB-700. Shoot with the SB-700 and use the SB-400 as a backup.</li>

</ul>

<p>Memory cards</p>

<ul>

<li>Make sure you have a memory card that is large enough. I use big cards that are large enough to hold the entire event. The rational is that I don't have to worry about losing cards or damaging them while changing them. Others will argue that you should swap.</li>

<li>Format the card in the camera before the event. NEVER EVER DELETE PHOTOS DURING THE EVENT. Do it after copying everything to your hard disks. In the unlikely event you need to do data recovery because you accidentally format the card, you can almost certainly recover everything. Even for certain other card failures, data recovery could still do a lot.</li>

<li>Bring a backup card just in case. After the event, you can do your regular shooting with the backup card and save the event card for a little while as a backup to hard disk.</li>

</ul>

<p>Batteries</p>

<ul>

<li>At least two spare camera batteries. You are more likely to exhaust a camera battery than for the camera to fail.</li>

<li>Buy the backup batteries now so you have time to try them out and confirm their capacity. Especially important if you go with third party batteries.</li>

<li>Battery reliability is important to me so I use only the hugely expensive Nikon brand batteries.</li>

<li>Bring your battery charger. Do your first battery swap early. Don't wait for the first battery to deplete all the way before you begin charging it. The sooner the first battery is on the charger the sooner it gets fully charged again.</li>

<li>I never bring a battery charger. I just bring too many batteries.</li>

<li>I was referring only to the camera batteries above. A lot of people, myself included, use rechargeable NiMH AA batteries. Make sure you bring enough batteries for the flash equipment. NiMH batteries last longer than alkaline batteries.</li>

</ul>

<p>Flash</p>

<ul>

<li>Someone pointed out that flashes are more likely to fail than the camera. So it makes sense to buy a backup flash before getting a backup body. The SB-700 is a good choice. Possibly the single most essential piece of equipment that you should buy.</li>

</ul>

<p>Lenses</p>

<ul>

<li>The 18-55 is the backup to your 18-270.</li>

</ul>

<p>Photos</p>

<ul>

<li>Accept that you won't capture every shot. Tell your friends that you won't capture everything but you'll do the best you can.</li>

<li>It's not the end of the world if you miss the kiss or ring exchange or anything else.</li>

<li>I put another line in my contract that says "Because events are not fully controlled, the Photographer cannot guarantee delivery of any specifically requested images."</li>

<li>Your friends are asking you to do this because you take better photos than any of their other friends. Most likely they will be thrilled with whatever you produce for them because it will be better than anything they could have had otherwise.</li>

<li>They've probably seen the kind of photos you shoot so you know they already like your style of photography. You are already working through on-line courses to improve your photography. Don't try to absorb all the shooting tips you've received here. </li>

</ul>

<p>Data backups</p>

<ul>

<li>Writeable DVDs can degrade after a few years. Make enough backups. What constitutes enough is a completely separate issue that you don't want to get into here.</li>

<li>For now, keep a copy on your hard drive, a DVD copy, and third copy on an external hard drive.</li>

</ul>

<p>Hope this helps. Apologies for repeating at least some of the stuff that's bee repeated several times already.<br /><br />Good luck. You'll do fine.</p>

 

<p>Oliver, you might be thinking of exposure compensation.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>He took 150 - 200 photos each round. Each round lasted about 3 - 5 minutes.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>That's no more than 1 frame per second. Hardly what I'd call high speed shooting.</p>

<p>And how the hell does a shutter get bent. I don't see how high speed shooting could do that.<br>

<br>

</p>

<p>@Melissa - Despite the shutter count, I would have kept the D700 that I knew instead of buying used. I'm sorry the new body isn't working out for you.<br /><br />@Luke - My problem might be related to the A-D converter but Nikon fixed two D3s bodies for me without replacing them. (I am delinquent in updating the posting). To fix the second, it seems the only thing they replaced was a communications cable. The first one took them three attempts and they got that one right when they "repaired the card slot". Go figure.<br /><br />@Melissa - However, if turns out you can't return it, Nikon seems to be pretty good at keeping to whatever they initially estimate for repairs like this. My first D3s went to them a total of three times and they kept replacing different parts at no extra charge to me. So at least your costs will be capped at that point and you'll have something that is confirmed by Nikon to be almost as good as knew.</p>

 

<p>Your lines are much more regular, but it reminds me of this posting "<a href="/nikon-camera-forum/00bzQZ">D3s - Strange lines in dark areas of photo</a>"<br>

<br />One possible issue is a loose or defective "communications cable". Nikon charged me about $300 to fix a D3s though the sting is lessened because Nikon will give the camera a full CLA in the process.<br>

<br />Working and not working after banging it with your hand supports the theory that it's a defective cable or connector.<br>

<br />But like Shun suggested, try to get a refund. Unfortunately, $1500 is not "an amazing deal" as they currently sell on KEH between $1269 and $1539 depending on condition and that's with a warranty.<br /><br />One last thing to try is a NEW battery. Or at least one that you know is good.<br /><br /></p>

 

<p>The 2000 mAh vs. 2300 mAh numbers are a capacity, not a rate and doesn't affect the operation of the camera at all. What it does affect is the number of exposures you will be able to take without switching batteries. With the lower capacity battery, you might get about 85% was many shots. (e.g. if you are able to get 500 shots with the higher capacity battery, you might get only 425 shots with the lower capacity battery.)<br>

<br />I don't know the electrical reasons, but you are going to find that a fully charged NiMH battery far outlasts a new AA battery.<br /><br /></p>

<p>The camera manual says you can use Alkaline AA and Lithium AA batteries. Generic NiMH AA batteries will work too. <br /><br />Eneloops are a well regarded brand and there are better chargers than the Nikon NiMH charger. I'm partial to the LaCross BC-700 which charges each of its four battery bays separately.</p>

<p>I actively dislike the D3xxx/D5xxx interfaces which use a single control wheel for both aperture and shutter speed.</p>

<p>The D700 is laid out more simply. One wheel for the aperture. A different wheel for the shutter. And it doesn't matter whether the camera is set to aperture priority, shutter priority, or full manual mode. The controls work the same in all three modes.</p>

<p>Sylvio's question is about the D700 and he has probably owned it for a while. Advice about using a different camera probably won't be useful to him.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Leszek - The "M" lever on the body near the lens mount. is the autofocus mode (manual/single servo/continuous). It won't affect shutter speed at all.<br /><br />Sylvio - Press and hold the mode button (near the shutter button) with your index finger. Rotate the main control wheel (larger wheel on the back, near your thumb) until M appears in the top left corner of the LCD display. Release the mode button. The M in the LCD display indicates manual exposure mode. The main control wheel (near your thumb) sets shutter speed. The secondary control wheel (near your index finger, front of the camera, below the shutter button) controls aperture.</p>

<p>But haven't you had your D700 for a couple of years now? I'm surprised you don't already know how to do this.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>But all in all, I'd cast my vote for "If it ain't broke don't fix it."</p>

 

<p>Pat - If you qualify (meet minimum equipment requirements, etc), your best bet is to become an NPS member because those guys go to the head of the line.</p>

<p>Other than that, your wait time may vary depending on how long their service queue is.</p>

<p>My D3s was in the shop three times recently.</p>

<p>A day or two after Nikon receives your camera, they'll send an email acknowledgement which you can use to track roughly track where the camera is. The only categories seem to be (ESTIMATE, APPROVAL, SHOP, SHIPPED). It's not a great system because sometimes it can be a day between when they receive the camera and when they put it into their system.</p>

<p>That said, my camera got into the shop pretty quickly the first two times I sent it. The third time, it seemed to take an extra day or two. I don't know. Maybe they were waiting to give it to a technician who could actually fix the camera. (And yes, third time was the charm.)</p>

<p>Authorized Photo Service (yes, that's their name) in Morton Grove, IL only services Nikon equipment and has a good reputation. I've always receive quick turn around when I've sent equipment there so that's second option you might consider.<br /><br /></p>

 

<p>Paul - I've heard of priority repairs and free loaners for NPS members. But, other than special events like the Olympics, I hadn't heard about free CLA service.</p>

<p>Anyway, I think the information about shutter count is only to indicate the condition, not to ask if it should be replaced.</p>

<p>Paul - I think they do cleaning, calibration and general adjustment anytime a camera comes in for a repair. No NPS membership necessary. </p>

<p>I just had a problem fixed on my D3s for $310 and got the same CLA service as you describe (sensor cleaned, AF adjusted, general check & clean).</p>

 

<p>It's too bad the sample photos weren't posted on photo.net. The link to the image gallery no longer works which renders this thread pretty much worthless.</p>

<p>For future readers of this thread, you might find other samples taken at the same Nikon event with a Google search of "D3s Big Apple Circus"</p>

<p>In particular, a review at <a href="http://www.digitalcamerareview.com/default.asp?newsID=4141">DigitalCameraReview.com</a> has some full resolution samples.</p>

Nigel, you are correct. Raw files can be left on the hard drive without doing anything.

 

A more accurate statement is that all raw data must be converted to RGB values before being easily viewed by a Hunan.

 

A jpg or tiff file is not required but there will be a set of RGB values somewhere, even if only in temporary memory calculated by the codec.

<p>By the way, on the top LCD display of the camera, did you see the word RAW? This would be corner of the display closest to hot shoe and towards the back of the camera. I think it's the same as with your D600 and D90. And it is possible to accidentally knock the setting in the middle of shoot though I don't know how easily that might happen with the D7000<br /><br />If RAW was displaying on the LCD display, the camera almost certainly recorded RAW files on at least one of the cards and your only issue is figuring out a work-flow that lets you get them off.</p>

<p>This thread is pretty old now and I'm sure you have moved on from this. But just wondering if you were using the camera's built-in meter when you were setting aperture and shutter speed?</p>

<p>A typical way of using manual mode is to select an aperture then adjust the shutter speed until the meter indicates correct exposure. This is essentially what the camera does when you've selected an aperture to use with aperture priority mode.</p>

<p>Or select a shutter speed then adjust the aperture. This what the the camera does when you've selected a shutter speed to use with shutter priority mode.</p>

<p>And one of the big advantages of manual mode is that the exposure won't change merely because unusual lights or shadows or backgrounds shift in the photo. The automatic modes will sometimes try to adjust for things in the frame that shouldn't really be considered when setting exposure.</p>

<p> </p>