carl_s

<p>Thanks Andrew. Can you recommend any labs that do it "the right way" as you've outlined (OP #2). I've always thought of WHCC as a higher end printing house - maybe I've been wrong. </p>

<p>Some labs (WHCC, MeridianPro, etc.) provide ICC profiles for soft proofing only, and specify that their profiles NOT be embedded in the image. These labs request either AdobeRGB or sRGB color spaces for the images. Other labs, (i.e. Costco) provide ICC profiles and require that the image color space be converted to the supplied ICC profile. Can anyone explain why the difference? It would seem to me that one way is right, and one way is wrong. I don't understand why it's different based on the lab...<br> Thanks all!</p>

<p>Richard,<br> Can you elaborate as to why the AF-S is a better item than the AF-D? There are a fair number of reviews floating around that say the G lens isn't <em>that </em>much better than the D lens. <br> Some even say they prefer what seems to be the better build quality of the older D lens. </p>

<p>Since the thread topic is wandering a bit...<br> I have experimented with bounce flash previously and never spent the time to really understand how to use it appropriately. I just took a few snapshots in the house and am wondering how much I should be trusting the camera's exposure meter. What is confusing me is the balance between camera exposure and flash exposure. <br> Should I be trusting the meter on the camera for the background and then be adjusting flash exposure for lighting of the foreground? It seems like a somewhat delicate balance that could have a million successful combinations.<br> Also, if I am using a bounce flash, should I be leaving the flash in TTL or manually setting the flash zoom as wide as possible (I think 24mm)?</p>

<p>Thanks WW. Will take a look.</p>

<p>Kent - I agree. While I would love to learn how to use off camera lighting, most of my photos are candids of my kids at events (where I barely have enough time to turn my camera on let alone set up off camera equipment). For me, the deciding factor between Canon and Nikon was the integrated flash on full frame bodies. Something is often better than nothing. <br> What I really need is a resource on how to make the best of a bad situation - that is techniques to improve photos when using my SB-800 on camera. </p>

<p>Joe,<br> Wonderful information. Thank you. I am always impressed by the intelligent responses from Photo.net users. If only all forums were so helpful... Happy holidays all. </p>

<p>Thanks for the responses guys. Exactly what I was looking for. I have an SB-800 so should be OK then. I'm mainly buying it for good photos of my kids and I can pick up the 1.8D for about $300 used. Would love to have the 2.8 zoom but for a hobbyist its a bit spendy. Plus, for this hobbist, I always seem to get better photos out of my primes than the zooms. Granted I've never had the money for a pro grade zoom though. <br> Side question - The speed light LCD shows the focal length of the lens accurately, but being that these are all FX lenses, does the flash compensate for the effective 1.6 multiplier for an APS-C sensor camera? If not, anything I should be taking into consideration to compensate?<br> Thanks all.</p>

<p>Evening all,<br> I have a question regarding Nikon's 85mm f/1.8 prime lens. I'm considering purchasing this lens for use on a DX camera (with plans to upgrade to FX in the near to mid term future).<br> Right now I have 35 mm and 50 mm primes. Adding the 85 would give me the telephoto end. The reviews on this lens are really good, with most saying it is a fantastic lens for portraits. If I've done my math right, the APS-C crop factor on this lens will produce a 136 mm equivalent. My concern is that at 136 mm, I might be forced to shoot from a distance that will be outside the range of my speed light. <br> Anyone have thoughts? I'm wondering if I'd be best to stay away from the 85mm until shooting with an FX body, at which time it would be about equivalent to the 50mm that I'm using on DX right now.<br> Thanks.</p>