jt991

Its been a very long time since I had a llC, and have just bought a near mint lllC ,but would welcome clarification regarding the handbook loading instructions, specifically about the use of the rapid-wind lever and film release button, viz:: "If you are using a 20-exposure cassette, set to the index mark between No. 20 and 25. Now work the rapid-winding lever and press the film release button (8). Repeat this until the film counter indicates No. 36 or 20 respectively. At the same time the rewind knob (20)…..etc etc" Presumably this technique is followed with the lens retracted, as the usual "wind & fire" to reach the first frame will only work when the Retina's lens is extended ???

The combined weight of it on my 500C has pretty much restricted their use to when driving my car, so my only hope lies - perhaps - carrying them in a recently ordered LoweproTopload Zoom shoulder bag when walking.My age (83 )may have something to do with this... but I'll get along as best as I can, for I sure love that 800 gram beauty !

You're right... I am talking about about my 80mm f2.8 Planar ..... all the years using 35mm cameras mostly with a "standard" (50mm) lens probably the reason for my mistake. And thank-you for your much appreciated explanation.

I am mystified by the three un-numbered distance markers on the focusing ring of my (Hasselblad) 50mm Planar; viz between those for 3 & 3.5 ft, 3.5 & 4ft, as well as between the 4 & 5ft markers. In each case there is ample room for a distance to be engraved, but all there is is a blackened line at right angles to the ring's edge exactly like the numbered distances have. Surely not one that got past final inspection o_O

I have found the most convenient way to carry my newly acquired 1971 500C & attached '68 80/2.8 Planar in the shoulder bag is nose down ,(viz body uppermost) to leave room in the remaining space for a film magazine etc. A spare divider lies uunderneath the lens as a cushion in view of their combined weight, perhaps unnecessarily, as no doubt your replies will confirm no harm will come to either the lens and or camera mount components, probably from users who have been carrying theirs this way for years.

Hi Rick, From Koh's web site today: "Sorry, We are no longer repair camera, Jimmy Retired For Repair. But If you need any Bronica, Rollei parts or repair questions, just e-mail us For Bronica Repair Please contact Camera Wiz, Mr. Frank Marshman at 1495 Needmore Lane, Harrisonburg, VA 22802 540-867-9671, E-Mail: camerawiz@msn.com" ...But as the $99 SQ-B Body due Monday from KEH was specifically bought to cannibalise parts for my good SQ-B as may be required, the levers will be coming off it.

Many apologies for any offence caused by that obvious and unintended misspelling ----- I hesitated too long until the time for editing ran out !

KEH had a SQ-B body which is already on its way to me. Firstly the multi exposure and mirror controller levers will be transferred, then the rest put to one side for other parts (if and when needed) to keep my SQ-B going for as long as possible. (The mirror control lever on my camera was loose, and a closer look revealed that it was cracked right across the centre ....then attempting to tighten it by rotating the central button-like cap using a finger tip caused tit to break in half and fall off :oops:

A closer look at the whole of the mirror lever revealed that it was cracked across the middle, subsequently coming off in two pieces. Fortunately it was set at 'N', thankfully confirmed as I expose each frame of my first film in this SQ-B. The multi exposure lever was in a similar condition (subject of my separate thread), so I plan to cannibalise the SQ-B body which I expect to buy a.s.a.p; other parts from it may - in due course - keep mine going.:-)

I have new-to-me SQB and am just going through my first film with it. Although I have read a copy of the "proper" User Manual, cannot find whether the mirror is designed to stay up after an exposure has been made (which it does). Although when I wind on to the next frame, the shutter cocks and the mirror goes back down simultaneously. (The mirror control lever is set to N but seems a bit loose , i.e no clicks when turning it between the N -S-C markings.

N.B Please note that the camera in question is an SQ-B. Also thanks for the link to Frank Marshman ! It may turn out that the lever from any of the SQ series will do.

Due to my carelessness this lever broke off my newly acquired SQ as I pulled the camera out of a tight-fitting shoulder bag I was using until an already ordered larger one arrives. Unrepairable and so deriving me of all that the lost facility allows, help in finding a replacement will be very gratefully appreciated. Finding a non-working discarded SQ body for its lever seems very unlikely, I guess - but "hope spring eternal". Although - from photos - the SQ-A lever looks different (evidently incorporating a chrome ring), maybe one of those would do ?

<p>Earlier in this thread I thought I might go for a KMZ turret finder, but noting that Ffordes have a couple in stock - I phoned today to see if they could tell me its compatibility with eyeglasses. The person who took my call (coincidentally wearing eyeglasses) took one of the shelf to try out, and confirmed my suspicions that getting one for myself would not be a good idea after all. He also pointed out that its metal eyepiece could could potentially scratch eyeglasses.</p>

<p>for lllc in that last line, please read lllg (For some my Mac's spell check always tries to change it back)</p>

<p>I might well go for that KMZ Universal Turret Finder (28/35/50/85/135mm) as they seem to be fairly common, once I have established that it has enough eye relief, i.e. easy to use with eyeglasses. In keeping with my strong liking for the Leica lll series, there remains the other option, namely getting a lllg - for the sake its 'built in' 50 mm viewfinder frame. This move would of course permit the Voigtlander 28mm finder to stay in the lllc accessory shoe undisturbed. </p>

<p>Carrying both (one for each focal length) is certainly one option, preferably when both are loaded with identical films. But then I'd have a minimum of 48 frames available which might take me some time to work through ... </p>

<p>I recently came back to using screw-mount Leicas (llla and lll, with 28 and 50mm lenses) and soon bought a SBOOI (for the 50, as you expect) and a VC 28mm finder. To avoid forever changing these finders around, I tend to just use the VC28 and the camera's built in finder, necessarily raising my eyeglasses out of the way. <br> I have looked on the net for an optical accessory viewfinder that incorporates both 28 and 50mm frames (preferably no others), suitable for an eye-glasses wearer, so far in vain. Hopefully someone hereabouts knows if there is one readily available, viz still in production.<br> (A Turret ? Only as a last resort )</p>

<p>Collapsing this lens (recently acquired - previous cla date unknown) has been progressively difficult since I've bought it (together with its 1938 cla'd llla) and started to use them a few weeks ago, so I've packed it off to Newton Ellis hoping the "collapsibility" action was not irreparably damaged by using it before having them check it out first. <br> Anyone else with a Summar like this which survived similar misguided misuse/abuse and was restored to full working order ? </p>

<p>Ten years later . . . I'm about to find out how bad the vignetting might be with an A36 filter and a FISON on my Summar. <br> Both came with the 1938 llla - presumably bought together - in Berlin during that year and which I acquired recently in London. I wonder whether the shop who sold it had recommended the FISON, or if it was a substitute for the right one which was "temporarily out of stock". </p>

<p>I have been perusing my reprint copy of the Leica Instructions for use of the Models c,f and g more thoroughly (see my post above dated March 23 which was incorrect), and in the section covering the g series find the following instruction : "Lenses with infinity lock should be locked at infinity for changing".<br> I very recently obtained my copy of the Leica Instructions referred to from ABE Books, whose URL is<br> http://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/SearchResults?kn=Leica+Instructions&n=100121503&sts=t </p>

<p>I had always set the distance scale to the closest distance before screwing it in James, but latterly - after discussing the so called anomaly in another site's forum - no longer do so, as the general opinion there is to set the lens to infinity. Problem solved. Interestingly Leica's own Instructions for the use of Models c, f & g does not specifically advise on this point. </p>

<p>Specifically aimed at users of this lens . . .<br> I have a newly serviced one (serial number 546**) for my Canon 7, and when screwing it on to the camera it turns very smoothly and steadily until almost the very last turn, when a noticeable degree of resistance is suddenly felt and the final turns needs a little more effort. (No force necessary). There are no problems using it whatsoever...viz. smooth focussing over the full distance range, and it behaves exactly the same on a Leica lllf that I just bought.<br />Both cameras are in full working order, by the way.<br />The only other lens I have for both cameras is a 50mm Jupiter 8 which (to coin a phrase) screws all the way in unhesitatingly.<br> Are other users of this lens familiar with this characteristic? Is it in fact normal ?</p>

<p>For the OP: how far off is the actual focus of your lens?<br> <br> Not at all now its back from the repairer, I hope ! I never asked how far off it was; all I know - is that he found the focal point was about an inch behind the film plane. Nothing wrong with range-finder, blame ascribed to a bad "repair " in the past. <br> I knew something was seriously wrong when I got the negs back from the first film I put through the camera, as I had to turn to my notes in order to recall what the subjects had been. </p>

<p>Has anyone else heard of a case where the focal point of a LTM/screw-threaded Canon 50mm lens (that was described as "Exc +" ) proved to be behind the film plane ? In all my years as a keen amateur, user in turn of a Praktina (FX) Leicas (lllc M4) and Nikons (FM2 F3) I have never heard of such a thing.<br> Hopefully, even presumably, someone out there has the answer....</p>

<p>Thanks for pointing out my glaring typo error Glen. 25mm is the right one.<br> How can you see that the position is off ? That photo of the Jeep is 15 years old, and I haven't uploaded any of the out-of -focus images taken with the Canon Lens. All the affected images are so far out of focus, its impossible to tell what the subjects were without my notes.</p>