gary_jean1

If you're considering a Gitzo, I guess cost isn't a factor. But considering the light outfit you're carrying, a Bogen/Manfrotto 3001 would work well. I've been happy with mine. If it's very windy, I just hang a weight from it. It's plenty tough to withstand the abuse it will get strapped to the outside of a backpack. I also have a 3021 and a 441CF (no I'm not a Bogen rep), but the 3001 is still my backpacking pod.

You may need some of these non-tripod techniques for the boardwalks (Corkscrew, Anhinga Trail) even if you get the most expensive carbon fiber Gitzo. Those boardwalks seem to vibrate when a heron lands on a railing. I once saw a guy who suspended his long lens from a handy overhanging tree branch. He had a strap attached to the tripod mount. Seemed relatively effective if somewhat limited in application.

I 2nd the book recommendation. Or, give Galen Rowell a call.

Having been to Yosemite in May, I used a Canon TS-E 24mm a lot for the perspective control, but often 24mm was not wide enough, so I was glad to have a 17-35 zoom.

Here's a vote for the f/2.8.

1. Bright viewfinder.

2. Better DOF control.

3. Superb optics.

4. With EOS 3 or 1V and 2x TC, you get a light 140-400 f/5.6 that still autofocuses well.

5. Same diameter as all other f/2.8 zooms (77mm), so you only need one set of filters.

6. Works great with 500D close up lens.

7. Weight builds character and muscles.

 

I use max aperture a lot.

 

I still can't figure out how you get to 50lbs. With 1 body, 17-35, 28-70, 70-200 (all f/2.8) zooms, TS-E 24, 50 f/1.4, 2x TC, 550EX flash, a stack of filters and all sorts of other paraphernalia like film and batteries, I doubt I'm at 25 lbs. Kinesis bags make carrying easy.

I use this combo a lot, but with limited success hand held. In good light, ISO 400 negative film (Fuji Superia) works well. But don't expect critical sharpness without a tripod. Also, you'll be relying on the central cross sensor only for autofocus.

Peter Burian tested 400F and Sensia 400 and subjectively couldn't tell the difference. August Shutterbug. Not much difference from pushed 100F either, but I don't know anybody who pushes for free. A&I is a good deal at $1 per stop of push. His conclusion seems to be to keep a few rolls in the bag for when you just gotta have it, but don't expect it to look like ISO 100.

 

Unless I need an original slide, I'll stick with cheap 400 negative film when I feel the need for speed. It scans and prints virtually grainfree and contrast is not an issue.

 

Landscapes do move (e.g., fields of wildflowers in the wind), but that's what TS-E lenses are for. For a long time I wondered about investing in this expensive specialty lens, but I did and it is now my most used landscape lens...unless the landscape is *truly* not moving.

I'm doing all 35mm scanning and printing at home. Nikon LS-2000 scanner and Epson 1200 and 1270 printers. This gives outstanding prints from full frame 35mm slides/negs up to 13" X 19". You cannot tell that these are not traditional photographic prints without a loupe. The ability to control my own output has completely rejuvenated my enthusiasm for photography.

 

If you go this route, you'll also need a fast PC with lots of RAM, because you'll often be manipulating files >100MB in your imaging software. The Nikon LS-2000 generates files up to 28MB (8 bit) or 56MB (12 bit). Add a layer or two in Photoshop and you're playing with some huge files. The newer Nikon scanners (e.g., LS-4000) generate files twice as big.

I haven't participated in workshop groups, but I've been in plenty of Nat'l Parks from the Everglades to Yosemite where there were enough tripods around to constitute a "group," albeit unorganized. I've never been harrassed. Not once in many years. Of course, occasionally there are some who misbehave, at which time I depart after telling the miscreant that I'm going to call a ranger. We need to help police ourselves.

 

Seems like it should be obvious to any organized group that they ought to grease the skids with the authorities in advance. Common sense. Personally, I think that commercial operations should have to buy a permit and register. All it takes is one Fatali-like incident (regardless whether it was exaggerated) to bring the regulators down hard on all of us.

 

Regarding rules, many are indeed a pain in the butt, but I think Romania and many other European countries could have used a few more rules over the generations. Anybody check out the former East Germany after the wall came down? Like a toxic waste dump. No environmental rules to bother anybody though. Try and find some wilderness over here. Trails in the Alps are the size of freeways, except crumbling and eroded from overuse and abuse. I'll live with the rules for the opportunity to enjoy the North American wilderness and near-wilderness that the rules help preserve. There's nothing like it in the world and they're not making any more of it.

 

Gary Jean, Heidelberg Germany

The lenses you have are very slow and were simply not designed for converters. Yes, you can find Kenko or others that may fit, but you'll be very disappointed in results. You said you want to shoot wildlife. Much wildlife is active when the light is relatively dim. The view through your viewfinder will be correspondingly dim. It's not that bright to begin with with slow lenses, and a converter will make you think you've gone half blind. You'll have to shoot very fast film to make up for the loss of light, and the results will then be both grainy and unsharp, even assuming you are successful in focusing accurately. Even with the 1.4X, you'll be manually focusing...I don't think the Elan 7 will autofocus at slower than f/5.6.

 

The Canon TCs are matched for the Canon lenses that they fit. They do not fit yours. They offer excellent results (even the 2x) with fast primes or the 70-200 f/2.8L zoom.

 

Your lenses should be fine for landscapes without TCs, although something wider than 28mm would be nice. I'd say to lower your expectations on wildlife shots, unless you can rent some big glass.

Nothing unusual about color compensating (CC) filters. They come in RGB and CMY at various strengths, just like the 81 series of warming filters. All the big guys make them....Lee, Hoya, Kodak, etc. The reds come from CC025R (no exposure compensation) to CC50R (1 stop compensation).

 

You might try some mild magenta filters (CC10M or CC20M) in the evening.

 

B&H should be able to take care of your filter needs, but maybe you're asking the wrong question. A web search on "color compensating filters" should turn up lots of useful links.

 

Take a look at David Muench's "Plateau Light." He explains how he shot the images (not necessarily sunsets but late afternoon/evening), and many of them involve mild red or magenta filtration. Of course, if you have Photoshop, you don't need filters unless you need a correct original slide.

 

Gary Jean, Heidelberg, Germany

Don't know if you took your trip yet...if you have you could be bleached white bones by now. I think it's foolish to go to Death valley in the summer, unless you simply want to experience the extremes of climate. It's not true that nobody is there. The place is probably full of Germans, who go specifically for the extreme heat, and who are disappointed when the temp is only 120F. In fact, I'll bet that most accommodations are booked. The campgrounds would be absolute misery, unless you camp at very high elevation.

 

I was there for a week in May with temps in the 90s. Perfect weather. However, still not the best for photography, because the sun was rising very quickly. The "golden hours" were measured in minutes. You'd be much better off earlier in the fall, winter, or early spring. The sun stays low, so you get extended periods of good light.

 

That said, if you want be like all the smart animals and sleep during the day, night photography with moonlight is fantastic at the dunes and the racetrack. But you'll need a high clearance vehicle (not necessarily 4WD) to get to the best places. And all the water you can carry, a flare gun, a few cans of tire sealant, a shovel, etc.

 

And be sure to let a ranger know if you are going off the paved roads and when you expect to check back in.

 

Finally, I don't know if the deal is still on, but Alamo was offering 4WD rentals for $189/week. We rented a brand new Toyota 4 Runner at LAX. Needed 4WD low range a few times in the canyons. Only had two flat tires.

 

Gary Jean, Heidelberg, Germany

 

P.S. In the summer, I'd skip DV and do the Owens Valley. Greatest place for nature photography in the known universe.

You can find spec sheets for professional films at the Fuji and Kodak web sites. They will tell you how to rate the various films for pushing, as well as correction factors for reciprocity failure when making long exposures.

 

A&I charges $1 per stop of push in addition to normal developing charges. You can get mailers from B&H.

 

You've got a lot of opinions already expressed here already. Why not try for yourself and see what you like? I like Velvia and Provia 100F too, but I also like Ektachromes. I don't see the grain problems that others talk about. And the Ektachromes seem to have a lot more latitude than Velvia. A lot depends on your intended use of the slides. Are you projecting, printing, scanning? If I'm shooting for scanning, then I often shoot Sensia II 100 or Elite Chrome 100. They are cheap and it's easy to create any color palette you like in Photoshop.

 

Gary Jean

Heidelberg, Germany

Re the 400 DO IS. The "green ring" may be speculation, but you can

see it here: http://www.naturephotographers.net/je0301-2.html

 

The one displayed at Photokina (locked in a plexiglas case) did not

have a painted ring of any color, and Canon reps refused to speculate

about cost or release date. However this (rather dated) Canon page,

says "...first half of 2001," so they haven't missed their target yet.

http://www.canon.com/do-info/

 

Gary Jean

Heidelberg, Germany

Go see the Valley and enjoy it, but forget the cliche shots. To get

away from the crowds, take your gear to the high country. Tuolumne

Meadows is the place to be. Hike up to Cathedral Lakes. Check out

Waterwheel Falls. Scramble up Lembert Dome. It's heaven on earth.

I'd hate to lug a 400 at 8,000 feet though with my lungs used to sea

level. You'll see marmots and ground squirrels, and maybe some bears,

but I'd be looking for landscapes. By July, you normally get fabulous

cumulus cloud build-up in the afternoons, which sometimes build to

awesome thunderstorms.

 

Gary Jean

Heidelberg, Germany

Jennifer, I use the 2x with my 70-200 f/2.8 and I'm very happy with

it. Is it as sharp as the 1.4x? No, it can't be. Is the loss of

sharpness noticable? Maybe...if you are taking pictures of lens test

charts. In "real" pictures, nobody has ever said to me...gee, that

looks soft at the edges.

 

The 2x with the 70-200 makes a great 140-400 f/5.6 that still

autofocuses very well. Nice for wildlife, while still being easy to

carry and affordable. BTW, I have the "old" 2x. At the price

difference of the new one, I'd look for significant savings on the old

one and buy it.

 

Gary Jean

Heidelberg, Germany