gary_jean1

Seems like this should be a common question, but I couldn't find it in a search.

 

The F-2 insert is too small for f/2.8 zooms, 85 f/1.2, 24-105 f/4, etc. with

hoods in the storage position. The 135 f/2 is a tight fit.

 

I don't want to search through a bunch of loose hoods to find the right one

when I'm doing a fast lens change.

 

Can anyone recommend an insert that will accommodate three large diameter

lenses with the hoods on? It doesn't have to be Domke, as long as it fits the

F-2.

 

Also, is the postman strap truly non-slip? Many non-slip straps are only non-

slip if you walk around with your shoulder scrunched up against your neck. The

only true non-slip strap I have found is the UPstrap.

yes, no and maybe.

 

If your PP is very limited, applied directly to the RAW file, doesn't try to stretch the shadow data, and gives you a result you are happy with, then there is no need to be obsessive about exposing to the right (IMO).

 

However, if your PP continues from RAW to the converted image in Photoshop, then everything you do degrades the data to some extent. Color space conversions, curve moves, etc. all cause original data to be lost. The data poor areas in the shadows will suffer the most. Will it be noticeable? It depends.

 

I would say it is good practice to keep the histogram for these kinds of exposures more to the right than to the left, without being obsessive about getting it all the way to the right and thereby risking blown channels.

Hi Cynthia. Any chance we are related?

Loud is relative, but yes, the 300 f/4 L IS is the noisiest of my lenses. The IS was disconcerting, because it sounds like the inside of the lens has fallen apart.

 

In the five+ years I've had it, it has never failed me and has never scared any wildlife away.

 

Enjoy it. It's a terrific lens alone or with the 1.4x extender.

There have been some inquiries about photography in Washington DC.

 

Most of the restrictions fall into two categories: use of tripods and

sensitive locations.

 

If you plan to use a tripod anywhere on Capitol Hill, you need a permit.

Here's the link to the application:

http://www.uscapitolpolice.gov/special_events/uscplib_297482_v1_cp_40_guidelines

_page.pdf The US Capitol Police are everywhere on the hill and they will

pounce on you instantly even if you stand the tripod without a camera on it.

 

If you plan to use a tripod anywhere on National Park gounds (e.g., the Mall),

you theoretically need a permit. However, I have never been questioned,

perhaps because there are far fewer Park Police than Capitol Police. Or maybe

I don't look professional enough, even with my white lenses.

 

All non-tripod camera use is generally okay, but rules may vary from day to day

and the mood of the security people. I was stopped a few days ago inside Union

Station, which is private property anyway. If you shoot anything related to

transportation, expect to be questioned.

 

I hope this is of some use to visitors to our nation's capital.

One way to find out is to go to Photokina, where Canon has its entire lineup on display.

 

I was there last in 2002 and they had a well used 1200 you could attach your body to, as well as pristine versions of the 600 and shorter.

 

At the time you could special order one for $65,000. I doubt very many of these were made.

Nothing gets between my L glass and my subjects. No protective filters. The lens hood is my protection.

 

No expensive 3rd party warranties either. The vendors love to sell those. Very high profit item.

60:40 either way tells me that if you sold it, at some point in the future you would have serious regrets.

Shoot RAW. In DPP, Faithful Picture Style is a good start for reds. In ACR, hold the ALT key while sliding the exposure slider until you see that you aren't clipping any reds. If the reduced exposure is too dark, increase the brightness slider. Re-check the red clipping.

"The original post I placed was intended to warn potential buyers that there may be better options than a 5D."

 

What is the source of your 5D expertise? Why should anyone heed your advice?

I have not run any controlled tests, but having both the 3 and the 5D, I've found that my lenses behave the same on both bodies. Same degree of light fall off. Sometimes perhaps more noticeable with the 5D, perhaps because film grain on my scans tends to mask the fall off a bit. Density seems the same though.

 

Another non-issue except for the people who always see problems where none exist.

Why did you try to BOLD your subject? Do you think it is more important than others.

 

I don't know what you are trying to prove. My 5D doesn't vignette with any Canon lenses. However, it does show light fall of at the corners with wide angle lenses at large apertures. Particularly, with the 24-105.

 

Of course, my EOS 3 does exactly the same thing.

 

The nice thing about the 5D light fall off is that I can remove it in a few seconds in ACR or Photoshop if I find it objectionable. Often I find the slightly darkened corners to be a pleasing effect.

 

Again, what are you trying to prove?

I have this lens. The way I shoot things like waterfalls is using shift to keep correct perspective. This assumes the top of the waterfall would be out of the frame with a vertical non-shift lens. Tilt is of no use unless you are trying for some unusual out of focus look.

 

Tilt earns its keep with things like fields of flowers blowing in the wind. You can get down low, tilt to get the entire field in the plane of focus, and use a wide aperture and fast shutter speed to freeze the moving flowers.

I ordered one refurbed by Canon from Adorama. $1,249. They are now backordered, but Adorama says they will get more in a couple of weeks. You might call them or watch their web site.

Decisive moment and MLU are mutually exclusive, unless your decisive moment means sitting around waiting for the sunset.

 

Try "C" setting on your mode dial and kwitcherbeliakin.

No. You would have to take consecutive exposures and merge them as layers in Photoshop. One more feature my 3 had that I miss on the 5D.

ST-E2 has a stand-by mode (middle setting on the power switch). I believe it powers down after 90 seconds.

Agree the standard disposable 2CR5 lasts a very long time in the ST-E2. I think it is a low drain piece of equipment.

 

However, I'm also curious if anyone has experience with rechargable 2CR5s. I would have loved to have had these for my EOS3, which ate batteries like a Hummer drinks gasoline.

Canon OEM BP511A is 1390 mAh.

 

Capacity ratings of 3rd party replacement batteries are unreliable.

With the 3, I was lucky to get 10 rolls. Admittedly, that was with a lot of auto-focusing without shutter release. Still, it was pitiful at $6 each for batteries.

 

That is one of the reasons I got a PB-E2 booster with rechargeable AAs. The 8 AAs seemed to go forever. It only came off when I really needed to go light.

"F8 and your (sic) there!"

 

Until they add the teleportation feature, I still have to get myself there.

 

"f/8 and be there!"

Yikes! That is bad. Not only on the left either. What seems strange to me is you have green and magenta on the same side.

 

Do you have Photoshop CS2? I'd try converting in ACR. I prefer DPP myself, but for something that bad I would want to see if something was going on in the raw converter.

I didn't know they were still selling 550EXs. Is it new?

 

What kind of batteries are you using? If you're using alkalines, the flash will be noisy as it struggles to charge and quickly kills the batteries.

 

Use NiMH or lithium batteries and the flash will be less noisy.

 

If you're already doing that, I don't know what to tell you. Both my 550EXs are very quiet, as compared to some older non-Canon units I have.

If you want the eyes sharp, then you need to make sure you are focusing on the eyes. AF with multiple focus points may be focusing on the nose.

 

Also, a hint of fill flash would put a catchlight in the eyes, which livens them up.

So what is your point? Not so many years ago, a 1 megapixel Kodak cost $20,000. What do you think that is worth today?

 

What is a $30K Chevy worth the moment the dealer hands you the keys?