anthony_murray

Thanks Paul. I'm loving the IIIf.

 

 

Anthony

<p>First test roll from Leica IIIf and first post in this forum. Elmar 50mm f/3.5. Provia 100F. </p><div></div>

<p>Haven't posted in a while and this is very late, but I thought it was appropriate as Sunday, August 5 2012 is the 50th anniversary of Marilyn Monroe's death. This 26ft statue was driven from Chicago to Palm Springs in May and will reside there until summer 2013. There was a line of about 30 people to my right lining up to pose between her legs, so this was a quick point and shoot. </p><div></div>

Thanks Bill,

 

I will look into this.

 

Anthony

Hi guys,

 

Thank you for the responses. Yes Charles, I had seen that datasheet. I guess what I was really looking for was a develop time

recommendation (relative to standard times recommended on the sheet) for the combinations outlined above. I looked in the massive dev chart and found nothing for Tri-x at 1600. This surprises me since Clayton recommend this for push developing. Maybe I'll try a more common developer for which data exists ( HC-110)?

 

Thanks

<p>Hi,<br>

Can't find any info on this. This is also my first time trying push processing.<br>

I'm shooting Tri-X at 1600 and trying a 2 stop push in Clayton F76+. Does anyone have a recommendation for develop time?<br>

I've tried 22 mins (actually worked out at about 19:50 when adjusted for temp), which is 2x recommended time for ASA 400 in 1+19 at 24C. The negs seem underdeveloped to me (low contrast and flat). My developer temp was also quite high (78C). I'm thinking I'll try about 25 mins next time.<br>

Any ideas?<br>

Thanks</p>

 

<p>4th of July fireworks from Laguna Niguel, S. California. If you look at the bottom right corner, you can see a fire starting to flare up (apparently due to someone setting off their own fireworks, not the main show). 10 mins later the park was evacuated in a hurry. Eventually burned about 6 acres. No injuries and no property damage thanks to the efforts of the firefighters. </p>

<p> </p><div></div>

I realize this is an old thread but maybe someone can help. I regularly use F76+ to develop Tri X exposed at box speed. I want to try

this for a two stop push (Tri X exposed at 1600). Does anyone have a recommended develop time for a 1+9 or 1+19 dilution?

 

Thanks

<p>Taken about two weeks ago, Laguna Beach, S. California.</p><div></div>

<p>Correction, actually wasn't really a B&B, a group of us just rented the house.</p>

<p>This is the ground floor interior of a B&B I stayed in last summer in Napa, CA. I’m a bit sketchy on the details, but as I recall, the original structure (a church) was flown in along with a crew from Pennsylvania? and rebuilt beam by beam some time in the 70’s. The owner has numerous photo books of the construction progress for visitors to view. Really cool place to stay if you’re in Napa for wine tasting.</p>

<div></div>

<p>Yes thanks, although this seems to be the case only in manual flash mode. Works fine as master in ETTL from the PC socket (580 fires), but I didn't check if the slave also fires in this mode.<br>

AM</p>

 

<p>Hi,<br>

I'm trying to trigger a 580 EXII via a PC sync cable and it won't work if the flash is set up as a wireless master in manual mode. I've searched and can't find anything on this. Works fine if set up as master in ETTL or as non-master in either ETTL or manual modes.<br>

I'm trying to set up a two flash system with a Mamiya RB67 Pro SD. The idea was to trigger the 580 via cord and trigger a 480 EXII as a wireless slave (both flashes in manual mode). NOTE: It actually works if I connect a wireless transmitter to the Mamiya PC socket and a receiver to the 580 via the hot shoe connector, so the problem with this mode seems to be the PC sync connection. Anyone seen this before?<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>This was taken after a hike to "Top of the World" in Orange County S. California a couple of weeks ago (from Aliso & Woods Canyon side). Shot is looking East towards Santa Ana Mountains. Peak on the right is Santiago (5689ft, highest point in OC), the one on the left is Modjeska (5496ft) - collectively known as Saddleback because of the characteristic shape of the two peaks. Towards the right in the middle of the frame is the (pyramid shaped) Chet Holifield Federal Building in Laguna Niguel. The array of buildings on the left is Soka University in Aliso Viejo, with Aliso and Woods Canyon in the foreground. The original idea of this hike was to photograph Laguna Beach (behind me to the West), but this view was completely shrouded in fog.<br>

Shot with EOS 3, Fuji Velvia 50, EF 100mm macro lens. Sorry about the strange color cast, but I don't have any filters for this lens and what you see here is pretty close to the original the slide. Spent a little time trying to correct in post but gave up in the end.</p><div></div>

<p>@Cesar. Oops! I did make a boo boo in the description.</p>

<p>For the record though, it is in fact St. Peter's Basilica (the alter). Unfortunately, I am unable to edit the text to correct at this point. @Moderator, feel free to make the correction.</p>

<p>Thanks,<br>

Anthony</p>

 

<p>Haven't shot Canon EOS in a while, so here is a shot from a trip to Rome last year. This was taken in the Sistine Chapel on a 7D, EF-S 10-22mm lens. Believe me it was DARK in here.<br>

ISO 6400, no flash, 1/40, f4.5, Spot metered manually.<br>

Chrominance noise was bad on the original but cleaned up nicely in DPP at +15 NR. Luminance NR in Topaz Denoise (default RAW Moderate setting). Finished off in PS Elements 6 with saturation = +10 and sharpened with radius = 0.3pixels, 90%.<br>

I'm quite pleased with the result considering ISO 6400 on a crop sensor.</p>

<div></div>

<p>Shot about 2 months ago. Salt Creek Beach, Southern California. You can see Catalina Island to the left on the horizon.</p><div></div>

<p>!</p><div></div>

<p>Rishi,<br>

With regard to Costco and COLOR prints. I have had a lot of success dealing with my local Costco for color prints. I’m not a pro, and mainly print 8x10, but have printed a couple of 20x30 there. Believe it or not, I think they do a great job “as is” with no profiles – this means sending them a file adjusted on a calibrated monitor with an embedded sRGB (yes sRGB, not aRGB) profile and letting their drivers handle the color correction. YMMV from site to site, bit mine consistently does a great job using this work flow.</p>

<p>I have also used their Dry Creek profiles (following the instructions downloaded from the Dry Creek website) and these work great too. The colors were marginally better than the above flow (looked a bit more vibrant), but since I’m not selling prints, I tend to stay with the easier “auto sRGB” flow.</p>

<p>For B/W printing (usually scanned Tri X film), I’ve found you must use the Dry Creek profiles for consistent results. I’ve had prints back with an ugly green or magenta cast using the “auto sRGB” method above. I once did a comparison between Costco and Mpix for 8x10 prints taken at a friend’s wedding (scanned TMAX 400 film). 8x10 size is printed on a Noritsu at Costco.</p>

<p>Costco: In general, I was very happy with the prints using the Dry Creek profiles. The file was soft proofed on a calibrated monitor. I requested a glossy 8x10. I was very happy with the tonal range. Next time around I will soft proof without “Simulate Paper Color”, as this made me overdo the contrast curve a bit.</p>

<p>MPix: Requested an 8x10 on their “real B/W” paper. Very happy with the tonal range, but I also noticed the print was not as sharp as the Costco version. They also don’t provide profiles (not even sure if their process uses them) and I allowed them to “perform corrections.” This may have been a mistake on my part, but I don’t really know how the Mpix process works and will probably try them again with no corrections the next time. If they don’t provide profiles, I don’t understand how they guarantee what you get on the print is what you see on your monitor. Can anyone enlighten me? To be honest, I preferred the Costco print and you can’t beat an 8x10 for $1.49, especially when this includes profiles with a choice of luster or glossy finish and you can pick up locally without shipping costs. However, if you are selling prints or archiving them for a long time, this may not be the best choice.</p>

 

<p>Salt Creek Beach, Dana Point. CA. Tri-X.</p><div></div>

<p>Haven't been around for a while but I'm finally back. This was shot over the holidays at San Diego Zoo.<br>

7D, 70-200mm F4L. Shot at 1/60, 200mm, ISO 1000.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi,<br>

Hopefully this is the right place for this question. I recently got the above camera and haven't yet used it with flash. As I understand the "flashmatic" flash system, the camera aperture is tied to the lens distance scale. When a given GN is set on the lens, the aperture will change as the focus distance changes to give the correct exposure. However, I've noticed if I change the film ASA, I get a different aperture value. This doesn't happen with my Olympus 35 RC, where I get the same aperture value independent of ASA (depends ONLY on distance scale). So, does this mean the Canonet also compensates for ASA when a given GN is set? Another observation is that, for a given GN, I also get small changes in aperture as I change the shutter speed.<br>

Thanks</p>

 

<p>Didn't get a chance to shoot this week, but my project for today is replace the light seals on my Olympus 35 RC rangefinder.</p><div></div>

<p>Playing depth of field games with my daughter. She rarely sits this still.</p><div></div>

<p>Josh wasn't the only one at a pumpkin patch lately. That's my 2 year old bottom right wondering what's going on. The Visa/Mastercard sign reminds you how much you are about to spend!</p><div></div>