cole_anetsberger

<p>The crank does stop after one 360-degree turn like it should. So I doubt that could be the problem. I'm not sure exactly what you're talking about anyway, but I honestly can't find a single thing wrong with this thing other than the winding problem. The camera could even maybe pass as new cosmetically, that's how nice it is.</p>

<p>mis-post V</p>

<p>I've run through the paper back and marked where it advances each time, seeing that it goes about 1.5 frames. It seems to start around frame 2 instead of frame one also. </p>

<p>Chris: I've never had the camera serviced, I just got it recently.</p>

<p>Hey all,<br>

I just got my first batch of negs back from my recently acquired C330 and on all three rolls, I'm only getting about 8 shots per 120 roll because the film is advancing too far (about 1.5 frames) each time. I checked that I'm set to 120, checked the linkage with the pressure plate lever, and checked the rod/gear on the take-up area and I can't find anything out of the ordinary. Maybe it's something to do with the crank mechanism? Any thoughts?<br>

-Cole</p>

<p>Wow, what a gorgeous series of photos. I hope to do something like that someday.</p>

<p>Hmm, didn't get a chance to check that out before sending it back. Adorama paid for me to ship it back to them to have it repaired or adjusted until it works right and then they'll send it back. I can't remember if those roller bearings/rods were there, never really checked for sure. When I get the camera back I'll check it out!</p>

<p>yessir, it most definitely is. keep yall posted on what the big A tells me tomorrow.</p>

<p>Hey everyone,<br>

I have an RB67 Pro-S, Pro 120 back, and Sekor-C 90mm lens that I've been trying to make work properly for the past three weeks to no avail. EVERY shot I've taken with this camera is out of focus. It is not motion blur or camera shake. Even focused at infinity on a landscape, the images are coming out blurred. The plane of focus is behind the subject on the negatives. I don't even need to look at the negatives through a loupe to tell they're blurry. I am used to shooting through a wlf on my Yashica Mat 124G and never had any problems focusing. I've already checked that the film in the back is flat and even tightened the pressure plate so that it is flat. SO....<br>

Anybody have any ideas? Adorama is getting a phone call from me demanding a refund or service on Monday, that's for sure. Not to mention all the wasted time, film, and processing....<br>

-Cole</p>

<p>Okay I worked it out- the (I think) double exposure pin was stuck and kinda bent, so once I pushed it out, the camera fired perfectly. What a headache for such a stupid minor problem!</p>

<p>Yeah, I have no idea what the differences are. I didn't think there really were any but apparently there are. Anyhow I still wonder if anyone else has tried this and has had success/failure and would know definitely what my options are. If anyone had a MINT pro S revolving adapter, I might trade if there's no way the SD adapter will work. I'm in San Diego, CA. </p>

<p>Hey all,<br />Just got an RB67 Pro S body with the Pro rotating back adapter and Pro 120 back. I decided to grab a mint Pro SD rotating adapter from B&H the other day cause the one on there is pretty worn out and hard to turn (not to mention the ragged light seals), and it just arrived. So I slapped it on there, and the shutter won't fire. There is film in my 120 back (though I don't think this should matter?). The camera works perfectly when the Pro back adapter is on the body. What could be causing this? I tried taking the dark slide out, winding the film, re-seating the back and adapter, shooting without the back, etc. and nothing seems to work. Any ideas? I didn't think there were any problems with compatibility between any of this stuff :x<br>

Thanks,<br />Cole Anetsberger<br>

I accidentally posted this in the general medium format forum also... moderator, feel free to delete it if it's a problem.<br>

yeah uuhhh it's not letting me post in the RB/RZ forum for some reason... and yes i chose the category before posting.</p>

 

<p><br /> <img src="http://www.flickr.com/photos/canetsbe/3060113989/sizes/l/in/photostream/" alt="" /></p>

<p>i love ektar. i think you will too. i'm addicted to it and portra equally!</p>

<p>Hey everyone,<br>

I don't shoot much in digital, but I went to do some long exposures in moonlight tonight with my XTI and kit lens. Out of the seven photos I took, only one came out reasonably sharp. The exposures were around 5 minutes at f/8 or f/11, iso 200 on a tripod. I used the remote release for the shutter. I am pretty sure my focus was fine (they were mostly landscapes shot at infinity). However, I'm relatively inexperienced at making very long exposures. <br>

Question: does anyone know if this lens just completely sucks for low light long exposures due to it being cheap and having a lot of diffraction or is there something I'm doing wrong? I am thinking a higher quality lens would definitely make a difference but any tips/insight would be appreciated!<br>

-Cole Anetsberger</p>

<p>That's more than F-1's themselves cost in the US :p</p>

<p>That is a really nice case.</p>

<p>side note- if you have the AE power winder with your F-1, you get shutter priority along with aperture priority. don't think anyone mentioned that yet. without the AE winder you only get aperture priority.</p>

<p>Well after a long wait, turns out they don't have the part because canon doesn't make them anymore. Looks like tape is the way to go. Sigh...</p>

<p>If that's the case and it needs a CLA, might as well buy another one. I scored a minty one from the bay with a 50 f/1.8 for $45. Or you could step up to the A-1..</p>

Wow, thanks guys. Henry, thanks for that link. I think I'll go ahead and order one.

 

Cole

Does anyone know where I can get one of these? it's the smaller screw-in cover that shields the shutter priority

AE coupler (not the winder coupler- i have that one) that is usually shielded by the AE power winder. I kind of

feel like using the camera without the winder for a while (taking it somewhere where it needs to be lighter and

more compact) and don't want anything to get in there and damage the camera. I couldn't find any info for it

online. Maybe someone has repair/parts contacts? Help is greatly appreciated!

-Cole Anetsberger

i think sometimes he's crazy and doesn't understand old canon equipment.

Hey guys, thanks for checking this out.

 

My EF's on/off switch seems a bit finicky these days, and yesterday, it would not activate the meter when turned

to the 'on' position. This was after I had been using it for about a half hour, and turned the switch off. When

I went to turn it back on, I noticed that the meter was not responding. So after some button pushing and

checking the batteries, I gave up and turned it off. About an hour later, I tried again, and it worked. But

after turning it off, the same thing happened where the meter would not read if turned on again soon afterward.

Today, it seems to be working fine, with the on/off switch activating/deactivating the meter as it should. Does

anyone know what might be causing this to happen?

 

Thanks again,

Cole Anetsberger

Ah, didn't think of that. Hmmm...

I was casually browsing the photo & video classifieds on craigslist the other day and came upon an ad featuring a

variety of Canon and Nikon cameras. Decided to click, and I'm damn glad I did. Up popped a picture of a very

clean F-1n with the AE finder listed at $150 from a guy in Temecula, CA. He was also selling a Nikon F3 +

motordrive and 50mm lens for $125 and Canon AE-1 with 50mm lens. Turns out I had just sold an iPod touch I had

and wasn't using for $120. So I called the guy, and he said he'd sell the F-1n for $125, and met up with him

today. Told me he wants to sell all his film gear and get a 40D. And so it turns out he also had the AE power

winder n (but with a broken-off attachment screw tightener which can be tightened with pliers anyway) and he gave

me that for free!! I was feeling pretty damn good about it, so I walked across the parking lot to Calumet photo

and checked out the film they were carrying. They had Kodak's new Ektar 100 for $4.19/roll (36). Bought two. I

pretty much feel like the luckiest FD photographer in the world today!

 

 

 

I'll post better pics of the F-1n when I get a chance!

 

***Post edited to remove mention of items for sale. Not allowed in the forums.***<div></div>

I can vouch for the 28-90mm f/2.8 being a good lens, but with some vignetting between 28-35mm wide open. Otherwise it's great. i know that doesn't help much but i have confidence in series one lenses!