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jason_hall5

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Posts posted by jason_hall5

    Loading film under red light

    in Casual Photo Conversations

    Posted

    <p>Hi John,</p>

    <p>I did a little looking around and it would seem that the only Orthocromatic film they offer now is 25 ISO and it has "ORT" on the label. I can only find it is certain sheet size on top of that. I was thinking it was Ortochromatic due to the fact they use an older emulsion chemistry. So there ya go....</p>

    <p>I do like their film, but find the soft emulsion and curly base to be a pain. I had a real problem with "specks" in their IR films.</p>

    <p>Jason</p>

    Armature Lighting and camera stabilizer?

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <blockquote>

    <p> The real power of photoshop (the full version, not to be confused with elements which is a striped down version) is that it can work in layers (among many other powerful tools). Unless it has changed in the latest version, Photoshop Elements does not have layers.<br>

    -Jason Hall</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>This is my mistake. It had been a while since I tried Elements so my memory had failed me. Elements DOES have Layers, maybe always did. What is did lack, however, was layer masking. And that was a no-go for me. However, I have recently learned that the newest version of Elements does have masking. </p>

    <p>Just wanted to correct that for folks in the future who may come across this thread.</p>

    <p>Sorry for any confusion.</p>

    <p>Jason</p>

     

    Looking for maximum sharpness (lenses)

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <blockquote>

    <p>If you want to think of it in extremes: take a picture of a tree on a sunny, cloudless day. Then take one of the same tree on a very overcast, almost raining, grey day. Which is sharper?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Now we are getting into apparent sharpness with this. Using the photo posted by the OP, Lighting had nothing to do with that image not being sharp. It was rather soft (I really liked lighting) but it was not flat. Either way it would not prevent the lack of detail in the lashes or in the reflections of the eye.</p>

    <p>I have never had the use of soft, very diffused light (even overcast day) prevent me from getting sharp portraits.</p>

    <p>Jason</p>

    Looking for maximum sharpness (lenses)

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <p>In the photo that you posted, useing ISO 1600 will prevent you from getting very sharp images no matter what you do. I use ISO 1600 often on a 5D and 40D and the sharpness is resonable and acceptable for smaller prints. But it will not come close if you use the native ISO 100. For "Max Sharpness", low ISO is a must. That is amoung the other factors listed, including find what focal length and aperture your lens is sharpest.</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>So then for a portrait, in order to have maximum sharpness, I would need more direct lighting? I really would prefer softer diffused lighting for portraits. I suppose this means I will sacrifice some of the sharpness then?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Certainly not. If soft light is what you like, there no reason you can not get plenty sharp images with it.</p>

    Beginner questions about post processing

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <blockquote>

    <p>Elements 9 has layer masks</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Yeah, I get that, and that is great. As I said, the versions I had tried several years ago did not. I may would give it another go now, even more so at that price. However I have Photoshop CS and currently useing a freinds copy of CS5. But as I said, Lightroom does 95% percent of my work.</p>

    <p>In any case, hope the OP's questions have been answered and I have not served to confuse them more.</p>

    <p>Jason</p>

     

    What do you use for proofs?

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <p>You can have 4x6 proof print included in your quote to the client and either print them your self or have a pro lab do them for about $0.20 each. Or you can use something like lightroom to create and print proof pages your self. You can put 6 or 8 images per page. </p>

    <p>Most Pro labs also offer proof books with nice bindings and you can create a custom cover if you like. You can get 4x6, 5x7, 8x10, and 10x13. I have done this many time for clients even though it is not automaticly included in my packages. Most of my clients ( I do this part time) are perfectly happy with online proofing. Infact, most want it so that it is easy for friends and family to see them and order what they want on their own.</p>

    <p>Jason</p>

    Beginner questions about post processing

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <p>I agree with others that Photoshop is really overkill for most any photographer, even more so for a beginner. There is no reason to fork out for that just yet. Lightroom does what I need for 95% or more of my photos. I use Photoshop to remove more diffecult lines and wrinkles from a ladies face, or remove a lot of lose hairs in a portrait, or maybe change heads around to creat the perfect family portrait. That is a blessing at time when young children and pets are involved. I had one lady who wanted me to slim down her arms and another that needed some red splotches removed from her neck. Photoshop is simply the best tool to do those things and I can not do with out it.</p>

    <p>That is the reason for my opinion on Elements.</p>

    <p> </p>

    <blockquote>

    <p> Do I understand that the significance of a workflow program like lightroom is the organizational feature?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Sort of. For me the real advantage of Lightroom came when I started shooting RAW. You can not directly edit RAW images in photoshop elements or photoshop. You have open them in a RAW converter and change to JPEG or TIFF and then open in PS/PSE. With Lightroom I can import RAW, TIFF, JPEG, PSD, or any other and view, edit, one after the other in the same folder or multiple folders completely seamlessly. I can export a copy of an image into photoshop, make edits, and then go right back to lightroom with out issue.</p>

    <p>You will likely not find you need all that stuff right off. So with all that said, Elements is all you need to get started and maybe all you will ever need. So enjoy it and learn it well.</p>

    <p>Jason</p>

    <p> </p>

    Beginner questions about post processing

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <p>I am very sorry for my misinformation. I used Elements some time back (I do not remember what version) and was very frustrated that I could not use layers with it. I even recall doing a internet search to help figure it out as I was afraid I was just not seeing it. Again, as I recall, I discovered it did not have that ability and so I stopped trying to use it.</p>

    <p>After reading Mike's post above, It was Layer MASKING that it lacked. I am sorry for the mess up, however, MASKING is a very important part of useing layers. So with out that function, it was useless. Just my take on it.</p>

    <p>Again, it does have layers, but <strong>did not</strong> (the version I had anyway) have<strong> layer masking.</strong></p>

    <p>Sorry, thanks</p>

    <p>Jason</p>

    Beginner questions about post processing

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <p>Photoshop CS5 is about as powerful of image editing software on the market. As even an advanced photographer (and photographer only), you would likely never use half of what it has to offer. The main power of Photoshop (for the photographer) is the ability to work in layers. But for many, that alone justifies the price.</p>

    <p>Elements is a striped down version and lacks that most important part...Layers. Its just a general photo editing software. It works well I guess, but with out Layers, its pointless for me.</p>

    <p>Lightroom is what you would call a "workflow program". It is a file management software also. So you don't pick a photo and open it up in Lightroom. Rather you import your file structure into lightroom and it then will place the photos into its catalog. Even if copy a photo into a certain file, lightroom will not see it until you import it into the catalog. The change you make to a photo in lightroom is not applied to the actual file. Rather they are placed in a sidecar file and only applied while looking at the image in lightroom. If you need the image for the web or to send to a print lab, you then can export a copy with the edits applied to it while the original file is left completely untouched and unchanged. This preserves the quality of the image. So no change you make is permanent to the original image. This is called non distructive editing. It also lacks layers, so I have Photoshop CS.</p>

    <p>You can download a free copy and try it for 30 days at the Adobe web site.</p>

    <p>Jason</p>

    Armature Lighting and camera stabilizer?

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <p>Adobe Lightroom is my program of choice. Just remember, its not just a photo editing software, it is also just as much a file management program. I do recommend the book by <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Photoshop-Lightroom-Digital-Photographers-Voices/dp/0321700910/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290562390&sr=8-1">Scott Kelby on Lightroom 3.</a></p>

    <p>If you do go with Lightroom, then Photoshop Elements will be pointless. The real power of photoshop (the full version, not to be confused with elements which is a striped down version) is that it can work in layers (among many other powerful tools). Unless it has changed in the latest version, Photoshop Elements does not have layers. Because of that, Elements will offer you nothing over Lightroom. Also the workfow with lightroom is much smoother.</p>

    <p>I have been using Lightroom since it was only a beta version.</p>

    <p>Many tripods, such as the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/479927-REG/Manfrotto_190XPROB_190XPROB_Pro_Aluminum_Tripod.html">Manfrotto 190xprob</a>, will allow different positions for the legs so you can make the footprint pretty small.</p>

    <p>I also use Alien Bees and I think, that for the money, they are about as good as you can get. Their PLM systems is also very good. I have used the 64" silver and I have the 86" white on backorder.</p>

    <p>Jason</p>

    Help for a true beginner.

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <blockquote>

    <p>What exactly is the twice mentioned eselar?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Read this from the OP's original post.</p>

     

    <blockquote>

    <p> I went to a camera store last weekend and talked to the salesperson there. She said that I should get an eselar (I don't know how to spell it). I wonder what does it mean?.....</p>

    </blockquote>

    How do I underexpose the background and meter for my flash?

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <p>There are two ways. </p>

    <p>One is to set the camera manually so that the sky is exposed as desired(two stops under). Than, manually set the flash power to properly expose the rider. Its that simple. You may have to trade off between your aperture and shutter cause as you know aperture affects flash while the shutter will not. You can also adjust ISO to give more flexability.</p>

    <p>The other way is to, as before, set the camera manually to get desired exposure for the sky. Then allow the camera to use TTL to set flash exposure for you. You can then use Flash Exposure Comp to adjust your flash output.</p>

    <p>Jason</p>

    Help for a true beginner.

    in Beginner Questions

    Posted

    <blockquote>

    <p> I wondering why there are such a wide variation in prices among the different models?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Because they range from things like plastic construction and 3 or so frames per second and fairly simple Auto focus systems to full metal construction, 9 frames per second, fully weather sealed, dual memory card slots, very advanced auto focus, and on and on and on....</p>

    <p>Its like a low price economy car vs a high end luxury. Both will get you were you need to go just fine. One may just get you there faster. :o)</p>

    <p>Jason</p>

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