tomscott

<p>I have an older model 6X9 Speed Graphic (or at least most of one) disassembled in a box if anyone is interested in it for parts or a project just send me an address and it is yours if you live in the US. If not in the US we need to discuss shipping costs. I hope someone can use this, I hate to see it go in the trash.</p>

<p>If you want 3 separate bodies I would have to recommend the Minoltas as they are a good bit less expensive than the Olympus bodies and lenses or the Pentax lenses.</p>

<p>Argus has been claimed.</p>

<p>I know you are right Mathew but, I've been planning on doing that for about 5 years now and still haven't gotten around to it. I still have a CLA'd Minolta SRT Super that I have never put film in, a Konica C35 and an Olympus XA2 that still have part of the first rolls in them, a Konica AS2 that I have never used and an Argus C4 that I have never had film in. I would rather see someone use the C3 than have to keep dusting it.</p>

<p>While I'm at it, I have a spare Enna Werke Munchen, Lithagan 35mm lens for a Geiss modified C4 if anyone wants it. It mounts on my camera body but it slips when turning the lens or RF wheel to focus it. I have a second one that works perfectly, maybe it would work on a different C4, I cannot tell any difference between the two but for some strange reason, one works and the other doesn't.</p>

<p>Nothing against Hawaii, I was under the impression that shipping to Hawaii was very expensive but, I see now that it is no more than to the rest of the country. I have shipped to AK and PR so I knew that was about the same as the Continental US. Edit my offer to read: will ship to all 50 states and PR.</p>

<p>Lens has been claimed.</p>

<p>I have a Tamron Adaptall 2, 28-70 1:3.5-4.5 Tele-Macro lens with C/Y mount free to a good home. It is in like new condition but does not include lens caps.</p>

<p>I also have an Argus C3 with leather case that has been cleaned up and the RF adjusted but, I have never put a roll of film thru it.</p>

<p>I will pay shipping to the lower 48, AK and PR. If anyone else wishes to claim either of these, I ask that you pay shipping.</p>

<p>I will send one or both of these to the first person who responds by PM to lowlandscots@att.net. It doesn't matter to me if they both go together or in separate packages. Either way, I just ask that you scrounge up something that you can pass along if you can.</p>

<p>Is it to where you could take a dremel tool or something and scratch out the SSN without damaging the lens?</p>

 

<p>I agree with David Smith. If you like the K1000, send it to Garry's Camera. I have used him many times and have always been happy with his work and especially his prices. His web site says he will repair the meter, fix the stuck shutter and do a complete clean lube and adust for $45.00 plus shipping. If you were to buy another K1000 or one of the newer models, who is to say you wouldn't have the same problem? If you have yours repaired, chances are it will last you another 30 years.</p>

<p>I don't think it will mount Mathew, the focus panel and hood should work if you can find the proper mounting frame. Here is a pic of my Pacemaker Crown in 2X3.</p><div></div>

<p>OK, I'll play. Here is the Kodak Bantam, 828 film format. Rochester New York.</p><div></div>

<p>After another look Rick, I believe you are correct. I was also unaware but, the T28 (even though it was designed as a Trainer to replace the WWII era T6) was modified and used extensively in Vietnam as a fighter/attack aircraft. One more thing, the difference in the T28A designed for the Air Force and the T28B designed for the Navy was a different engine and the B model had a 3 bladed prop, which makes me think that these are both T28B models.</p>

<p>Very interesting Arthur, I will have to try and see if it will be rebroadcast anywhere in the near future.</p>

<p>There is the Kalart Master Speed Flash setup but you'd may have to adapt it for use with modern flash. It was designed with flash bulbs in mind. Or you could just use it with flashbulbs. Ebay item: 260789004895</p>

<p>I believe Rick is right on the WWII Navy plane (the T designation being a Trainer, hence the two seats) but the last plane I am almost positive is a Douglas A1 Skyraider, AKA "The Sandy", used in Vietnam as a SAR and Recon/ Forward Air Control Aircraft (among other things).</p>

<p>Reminds me an awful lot of pulling guard duty at the ammo dump. Love the shots, especially the panorama.</p>

<p>Jacob, I have never replaced the bellows on this particular model camera. I bought them for a project camera I intended to build but they ended up being smaller than what I had expected. They have 4 screws that usually go in from the inside that hold it to the front standard and there is a lip that attaches the rear of the bellows to the camera. Without having the camera in my hands, that is about all I can tell you. You are welcome to one of these if you want to give it a try, or if you know someone who can do it for you. Send me an email if you are interested. These are original Kodak replacement bellows still in factory wrappings.</p>

<p>Anyone needing the 27717 Bellows listed in Jim's link drop me an email. I have several and you can have one for cost of shipping. Apparently these fit the No2 folding Auto Brownie.</p>

<p>It's amazing how much the '65 thru '68 resemble each other. The main giveaway is the twin scoops and the reflector on the rear quarter panel of the '68 not present on the '65. The side scoops are a little different as well but not quite as noticeable. As for looking at the tail light lenses for the year, that doesn't always work. A '65 mustang may say '64 on the tail light. The year on the tail light is the first year they made a particular style lens. If they used the same style for two years, say '67 and '68, the light would likely say '67.</p>

<p>Makes perfect sense, thanks a lot for all the helpful answers.</p>

<p>Thanks guys, I consider that high praise coming from the 4 or you. I was planning to sell this rig but now I think I may hold onto it for a while.</p>

<p>That's interesting. I found the pin and can push it manually and the switch moves but the the F body has a groove machined into the mount so that the pin will not be pushed when the lens is mounted.</p>

<p>I meant to say the 55 f/1.8 SMC Takumar has the switch that won't move. The 28 f/3.5 Super Takumar switch does work.</p>

<p>This may be one of those questions that has been asked before but I haven't been able to find an answer so far. Is the auto-manual switch on an SMC Takumar lens supposed to move? I have the 55 f1/8 Super Takumar that the switch will not move from the auto position. The SMC Takumar is fully automatic aperture for open aperture metering so it works just fine with it in the auto position but, was it designed to move or is mine just stuck. I have a 28 f/3.5 Super Takumar that has the switch and it is moveable. I understand that the Super Takumar has to be used with stop down metering, but the Spotmatic F has a switch for this purpose so I just leave the switch on the lens in the auto position. </p>

<p>Thanks Jon. These are CVS Pharmacy scans. I had to do a complete system restore on my computer recently so I haven't gotten around to downloading the software for my scanner or for my color calibration spider so, I don't really know how they look on a calibrated monitor but I was quite happy with the waay the prints came out.</p>