alan_bryant1

<p>That's a pretty severe color balance problem.</p>

<p>Have you changed your lighting rig recently?</p>

<p>Flickering lights can be dealt with by keeping the shutter speed slower. But it has to be pretty slow, like 1/30 or longer, to reliably get past the flickers. Also, I think all light sources change color as they warm up, the effect is fairly pronounced with tungsten.</p>

<p>If you're shooting straight JPEG, I'd change to RAW+JPEG so you'll have more options to fix this in post.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>AF was not working with 2x and 600, was it because of the 5D3 does not support beyond f8 ?<br>

</p>

</blockquote>

<p>The 5D3 does support AF with f/8 lenses with the current firmware, but the original firmware did not. So you may simply need a firmware update.</p>

<p>I've had good experiences with KEH too. I've bought bargain-graded lenses as recently as last July, and I've never had trouble. Sounds like you had a run of bad luck.</p>

<p>Last September, I had an error 01 repaired on a 24-105 and it cost about $250. They did the repair quite fast.</p>

<p>The short answer is "don't worry about it, all lenses have some dust in them, it almost never matters."</p>

<p>Or you can look at this,</p>

<p><a href="http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/05/a-few-easy-lens-dustings">http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/05/a-few-easy-lens-dustings</a></p>

<p>Both of those lenses had $50 instant rebates that expired Jan 4, according to the-digital-picture.com.</p>

<p>http://www.the-digital-picture.com/News/News-Post.aspx?News=8716</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I'd read (but not verified) that a slow SD card in the SD card slot will slow down writing to a fast CF card in the CF card slot.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I did some tests and was unable to replicate that problem.</p>

<p><a href="/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00aYCY">http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00aYCY</a></p>

<p>...I had no idea anything like this was possible, but on 274 of the PDF there's a section called "Copying Images", at the end of chapter 9, Image Playback. It describes how to manually copy images from one card to another. You can copy them one at a time, or the whole set.</p>

<p>Still not quite what Danny is looking for because it isn't automatic. Also it only copies, not moves, so afterward you'd have to delete the images or reformat the CF card to free up that space. Still it's a partial fix.</p>

<p>The 5D mk I is not quite as high-tech as your 40D. It doesn't have live view, for example. It's also slightly lower resolution. On the plus side it uses the same battery and can share memory cards with the 40D.</p>

<p>It is a dated camera, but I use mine as a backup body and it still takes great pictures. Looks like bodies in decent condition are going for around $600 these days, which is a lot less than I paid for mine.</p>

<p>[Edit: I had cameras mixed up, the 5D mk I is slightly *higher* resolution than the 40D. But only a little.]<br /></p>

<p>...For what it's worth, before roughly 1990, every photographer on Earth shot manual focus all the time. Sometimes with a very narrow depth of field. And some of us actually managed to focus. Believe it or not, it isn't impossible to do. It's actually not even hard if your focus screen is optimized for that purpose.</p>

<p>I don't know what's involved in changing out the focus screen of a 5D mk III, except that Canon doesn't officially support it. I assume some electronics need to be disconnected. I would be reluctant to try it on mine. As Robert points out, it's very easy to change the screen of a 5D mk II, so that might be a better option if your budget allows. Honestly the biggest single advantage of the 5D3 over the 5D2 is the improved autofocus, and that's irrelevant if you're shooting Zeiss, so you might be just as happy with a 5D2.</p>

<p>You could also give shooting with Live View a try. I've done it with a LensBaby and it works quite well.</p>

<p>Regarding the exposure compensation and a switched-out focus screen, since Canon doesn't support changing the screen, there won't be a custom function to allow for it. However, you can probably just work out the exposure compensation you need for each lens, and dial that in when you switch lenses. Since the Zeiss lenses have electric apertures it's fairly simple with them. (Manual aperture lenses give much more trouble with the metering, since the compensation needed varies with the aperture setting.)</p>

<p>Jody, clearly the optics have changed, both the EF lenses have optical image stabilizers, which no FD lenses had.</p>

<p>My guess would be sometimes, but not dependably. The Lensbaby's tilting and shifting tends to confuse the light meter and might well confuse the AF too.</p>

<p>Are you actually contemplating having nothing at all between 17mm and 135mm?</p>

<p>In your situation I'd suggest renting the Fuji to see how you like it. It sounds like you've had experience with SLRs; the 6D or 5D3 will handle like one of those.</p>

<p>I've seen some reports that the Sony A7R is pretty amazing, so that might be worth a look too.</p>

<p>How hot is the camera? It might be overheating. Could also be the battery dying.</p>

<p>I checked all of mine. On the 30D and 5D mk 1, the set button spins with the quick control dial. I'd actually never noticed that before. On both of those cameras the set button has no ink, so the word SET is hard to read and the spinning is not very noticeable.</p>

<p>On the 5D mk 3, the set button is inked with SET, and it doesn't spin. It does move very slightly when I move the quick control, but not enough to alarm me.</p>

<p>Regarding point 2, I assume the IS is turned on? I have the mark I version of that lens and when IS activates you can hear it, like a faint rattle, and also feel a very slight vibration. It's by no means loud, though it is louder than the IS in the 24-105. I don't know if that applies to the mk II lens or not. Which version do you have?</p>

<p>I'm apparently one of the few as well. I think the M is kinda brilliant - that is, making a very compact mirrorless that takes EF lenses and supports all their features.</p>

<p>My heavy kit is a 5D mk 3 and a set of generally large lenses. For some events I also take a 5D mk I and a 30D. I used all three last night, and four different lenses, shooting portraits and candids at a community theater. I work mostly without a flash and often in very low light.</p>

<p>My light kit is a Canon D10, the waterproof P&S. Decent image quality in good light, and nearly indestructible. I carry it pretty much everywhere.</p>

<p>I like the D10, but it's got problems. It's bad in low light and it can't shoot RAW. The AF is slow, and the zoom range and video modes are unimpressive. Meanwhile the 5D3 is very heavy and large. It's fairly loud. And it's expensive so I have to be careful taking it some places.</p>

<p>It would be nice to have a medium kit with much better low-light performance. A mirrorless camera seems ideal for that purpose, but I don't really want to invest into a whole new camera system. So the EOS M makes a ton of sense to me. It can use all my existing lenses. It's small and light and great in low light. It's quieter than an SLR, which I like. The lack of a flash doesn't bother me since I seldom use one anyway. It's smaller, lighter, cheaper, and quieter than the SL1.</p>

<p>I was hoping for an M2 with a the dual-pixel AF stuff like the 70D has. It appears they didn't do that, but they seem to be saying the AF is improved. I'll read the reviews, and it if looks really good I might try to hunt one down here. Or just buy the M, which is certainly priced to move right now.</p>

<p>The M was released 18 months ago with an initial price of $800, and look at it now. The M2 price will fall too.</p>

<p>Larger question is whether it will ever be generally available outside of Japan.</p>

<p>I too am amused by the parallels with Leica's naming scheme.</p>

<p>I hope it becomes available in the US. A few will wander to this country regardless. KEH seems to be a good place to find such stuff; they always have a few Kiss-branded Rebels from the Japanese market.</p>

<p>...The M2 has been announced in Japan. It's unclear whether it will be released in the US and Europe.</p>

<p>Discussion at</p>

<p><a href="/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00cCpp">http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00cCpp</a></p>

<p>Currently the mirrorless market is expanding much more than the DSLR market, and I suspect Canon is in this for the long haul. Mirrorless cameras are good and they will get better, and I don't think Canon is going to ignore that market.</p>

<p>I don't really understand the "too few lenses" argument. The M takes all EF and EF-S lenses in addition to the M lenses. And the flange distance is so short that almost anything can be adapted to it. This camera is capable of using more lenses natively, and more lenses adapted, than practically any camera that has ever existed. In that department it easily beats all the other mirrorless offerings.</p>

<p>I don't have an M, but if they make one with the same sensor the 70D has, I'll probably get one.</p>

<p>Roger over at Lensrentals.com wrote a long post on error 99:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2008/12/canons-error-99-the-man-the-myth">http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2008/12/canons-error-99-the-man-the-myth</a></p>

<p>The last page has their troubleshooting procedure.</p>

<p>I assume you mean millimeters of focal length?</p>

<p>No, since 12mm is ultrawide even on a crop frame camera, I don't know of any lenses that span that whole range.</p>

<p>You might look at the Canon EF-S 15-85. Or explain in more detail what you need.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>You would need a wheelbarrow to carry it.</p>

</blockquote>

<p> It would be heavy, but no more than the 70-200/2.8 that I carry all the time.<br>

<br>

Tamron used to make a 28-105/2.8; apparently you can still get it in Adaptall mount. Weighs a couple pounds.</p>

<p>I've used the 24-105/4 IS a lot on a 5D mk 1 and 5D mk 3. I find mine very sharp, and I have no plans to upgrade.</p>

<p>One thing that hasn't been mentioned is the new 24-70/4 IS has a macro mode. The implementation is odd, in that you slide the lens into "macro mode", apparently with the zoom ring, and that loses infinity focus and gains a lot of close focus ability. That'll seem like a new thing to many, but it was pretty common back in the 80s for zooms to work like that. So it's really a throwback to the old days. I've read that the macro mode is very sharp, but that the working distance is extremely short, which limits what you can do with it. The maximum magnification is 0.7x.</p>

<p>I once rented the Tamron 24-70/2.8 VC. I liked a lot of things about it. It's quite sharp and the VC works well. The deal breaker for me is that the zoom and focus rings both turn the opposite direction from the Canon standard, and the order of the rings is different. On the 24-105 it's zoom ring near the camera, focus ring farther out; on the Tamron 24-70 it's focus ring near the camera, zoom ring farther out. Probably it wouldn't be such a big issue if I hadn't used the 24-105/4 for so many years, but I have, so this drove me nuts. I kept changing the focus when I meant to zoom the lens, and when my fingers did find the zoom ring I invariably moved it the wrong direction. Other than that I liked the lens, and if the Canon standard isn't already burned into your brain, it's worth considering.</p>