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davidsimageline

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Posts posted by davidsimageline

  1. Sorry you won't find it in PS CS4 any more it's now in bridge.

     

    1. open bridge then up the top where you find the menu button look for ESSENTIALS, FILMSTRIP, METADATA, OUTPUT click the drop down arrow next to out put. A easier way is to just click CTRL F4.

     

    2. Select the pictures you want to make upi the contact sheet and you setting on the right. That's where you make a gallery as well.

  2. I tried to take some jewelry with my camera ( D200, 28-85mm macro lens & two SB-600 ) in manual model mode. My

    where shutter speed set to 250 ( which is my camera sync speed ) aperture F11 & ISO 200. But my problem is the

    gray back ground when it should be white. I tried to edit the second image to get the back ground white but I

    would like to have it straight from the camera looking like the edited image.

    <br>

    Here is a sample

    <a href="http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/ff296/bussiness4/PhotoDotNet/?action=view&current=2.jpg"

    target="_blank"><img src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff296/bussiness4/PhotoDotNet/2.jpg" border="0"

    alt="Photobucket"></a>

    Edited

    <a href="http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/ff296/bussiness4/PhotoDotNet/?action=view&current=1.jpg"

    target="_blank"><img src="http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff296/bussiness4/PhotoDotNet/1.jpg" border="0"

    alt="Photobucket"></a>

  3. I have a D200 and I was taking some pictures with the flashes (2 * SB 600) of camera with the commander mode and

    one flash was blinking red above the the Nikon sign on the front and the other was not. I wanted to know if that

    is normal, I read the manual and couldn't find anything on why one blinks and the other didn't.

     

    I had one SB 600 before and I just bought another one.

  4. I agree with Starvy but, I would take more than a phone number like a drivers license and something with less or greater value of my camera. If to get the job done is important to her and her client that would not hesitate.

     

    Don't feel bad about it it wasn't your fault. I only have one digital camera for now but, I still carry my film camera (That I used in school before going digital) in my bag with some roles of film just in case. The good thing about that is all my lenses work on my film camera

  5. Hi Michele

     

    Exposure bracketing is a simple technique professional photographers use to ensure they properly expose their pictures, especially in challenging lighting situations. When you expose for a scene, your camera's light meter will select an aperture / shutter speed combination that it believes will give a properly exposed picture.

     

    Exposure bracketing means that you take two more pictures: one slightly under-exposed (usually by dialing in a negative exposure compensation, say -1/3EV), and the second one slightly over-exposed (usually by dialing in a positive exposure compensation, say +1/3EV), again according to your camera's light meter.

     

    The reason you do this is because the camera might have been 'deceived' by the light (too much or too little) available and your main subject may be over- or under-exposed. By taking these three shots, you are making sure that if this were ever the case, then you would have properly compensated for it.

     

    As an example, say you are taking a scene where there is an abundance of light around your main subject (for example, at the beach on a sunny day, or surrounded by snow). In this case, using Weighted-Average metering, your camera might be 'deceived' by the abundance of light and expose for it by closing down the aperture and/or using a faster shutter speed (assuming ISO is constant), with the result that the main subject might be under-exposed. By taking an extra shot at a slight over-exposure, you would in fact be over-exposing the surroundings, but properly exposing the main subject.

     

    You can read more at <a href="http://www.photoxels.com/tutorial_exposureBracketing.html" >photoxels</a>.

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