bob_tourdot
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Posts posted by bob_tourdot
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<p>What you need is :<br>
RZ body - either Pro 1 or Pro II will do, I'd say condition is more important<br>
RZ back - 120 film has many more choice available - black and white and transparency - a 120 back.<br>
Finder - waist level finder is most basic, often comes with a used body, and can work fine for portraits<br>
Lens - RZ lens, go by focal length you prefer, roughly equivalent focal length is 2x to 35mm, i.e. the 180mm RZ lens is kind of like a 90mm on 35mm full frame although the aspect ratio is different. The 180 regular lens is pretty cheap in general, the 110 is very nice, but more like a 55mm lens.</p>
<p>Some way to meter the exposure - a DSLR set to the same film speed can be used.</p>
<p>Lighting - whatever you want - </p>
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<p>I live in Minnesota and have used the Sony A700, and Minolta 7 cameras (among others) outside below 0 F. Frankly I don't know which will last longer in the cold. I'd suggest taking a spare battery and keeping the battery warm, for a longer time outside. I think you'll be fine unless you're going to be on an expedition. There will be condensation when you go inside again.</p>
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<p>I have both, the 7 has more features, the only one I miss on the 800si is mirror lock up. The 800si is considerably heavier, and if you go by weight, may be more robust. Either will do the job fine, but I'm not sure about any compatibility issues with the flash.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the response Stefan, I hadn't thought of one of those. Good luck to you Charles.<br>
Best Regards</p>
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<p>Hello,<br>
I've gotten a Olympus PEN PL-1 to be a smaller camera than my APS-C camera. It came with the kit 14-42 lens and while it's small, it's still too big to fit in a jacket pocket, or bike jersey pocket easily (while in the case I have for it now).<br>
I've ordered a 17mm f 2.8 lens, in part to make the package of camera, lens, and strap smaller.<br>
I just thought I'd ask whether anyone has recommendations for a small camera case for the PL-1, with 17mm lens and strap.<br>
Thanks</p>
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<p>A couple of ways are to 1.) get an off camera flash cord (dedicated to Sony/Minolta) that goes between the hot shoe on the camera and the base of the flash - this is corded, but maintains TTL flash, or 2.) Get a wireless radio trigger/receiver (either compatible or add adapters for the Sony footprints) - this way you lose the wire but also lose TTL metering and control the flash output manually<br>
Regards</p>
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<p>Use Rear Curtain synch (so the flash fires at the end of the exposure) and try some slower than max synch speed shutter speeds -</p>
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<p>My general walk around lens (on alpha 700) is the Sony/Zeiss 16-80. Good quality and very flexible. I'll change it off for a faster lens, a macro, or a telephoto, but for general use it's my choice.</p>
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<p>I'm not an expert on this, but I have a Cooolscan 9000. Here's a couple thoughts.<br>
The advantage of the glass holder is that it improves film flatness edge to edge - use the regular holder, and if parts are sharp and others not, it's probably due to film flatness, not a scanner hardware issue. If areas are not sharp, do the areas move when you reload the film, - turn it around in the holder.<br>
I'd recommend scanning both 120 and 35mm, use all the different holders you have. If you have different format 120 film - ie 645, 6x6 6x7 I'd try those and see how it performs.<br>
The scanner makes some noises, but does it seem to transport the film holders ok, repeatedly?<br>
I lost my internal hard drive and re-downloaded the software from the Nikon website.<br>
For test shots - rest the camera on something, use a timer or cable release, sharp aperture - all the usual stuff</p>
<p>Good Luck</p>
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<p>When I've done a pre wash, as I pour out the water I notice it has a blue/purple color - this scared me the first time I saw it, but it doesn't seem to affect the results as far as I can tell. So it seems to be removing something from the film, what is this?</p>
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<p>I have a Yashicamat 124G, that I bought new years ago as a first MF camera, and I've since picked up a few more including a Mamiya C330f. <br>
The 124G has held up well, after a CLA by Mark Hama it still shoots like new - the in camera meter has worked well, and it's smaller lighter than the Mamiya<br>
Obviously, both will take good photos<br>
With the Yashica you don't think about getting more lenses or accessories - I never bothered with the lens adapters (do have a hood) you just take pictures, I think the user interface is simpler. With the Mamiya, you can get into the system building thing<br>
The Mamiya offers more flexibility - it's not that different to handhold. And if you later decide you want another focal length you can add quality lenses.<br>
It used to be that TLR's were the inexpensive way to shoot MF, now with the prices of the other used equipment I think the difference has shrunk, so that's not as big a factor. I still like the TLR's and enjoy using them. You do get a lot of attention from people, and it's surprising how many people say they used to have one - <br>
On these older cameras, I believe condition is very important, and that might be the deciding factor for me.</p>
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<p>Hello Paul,<br>
I have a Pentax 645N, but your question is not really too specific to the camera.<br>
When you have the camera in manual mode like you indicate, it will expose with the shutter speed and aperture you set. It doesn't change the exposure. It can't change the film speed - that's fixed by the film. All it's doing is biasing the meter reading by the 2 stops you set it for. If you snapped the photo, when you got the film back you'd find it was underexposed 2 stops.</p>
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<p>Pentax 67II 55mm</p>
<p>Coming out of the woods at Murphy Hanrehan park</p>
<p> </p><div>
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<p>Pentax 67II 55mm</p>
<p>Coming out of the woods at Murphy Hanrehan park</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>I have an Epson V500,and I think it does a good job on scans where you print 67 negatives/positives up to as wide as I can go on my 13" wide printer. It does have Digital Ice, which is nice, but this doesn't work on traditional(silver based) black and white. You might look at the Epson clearance center online, they have refurbished ones there - I got mine from there and it works fine. They have sales sometimes, but I don't know what the schedules are.<br>
I don't like it for 35mm film - <br>
I'm not quite sure what you mean about having the same look - but if you start from a good negative I think you can get a pretty good scan.</p>
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<p>I may be ignorant, but I'm using a Nikon 9000ED usually using Nikon version 4 software, with an iMac running 10.6.4 and it works as well or better than it ever did - I'm getting fewer problems now actually.</p>
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<p>Not sure exactly what you're looking for, but another one you might consider is the older version Minolta 35 - 105 zoom. For studio work I'm thinking you may not need a faster lens, the quality and bokeh of this lens is quite nice, and used prices are reasonable. Could be easy to try and see if you like it - here's a link to the Dyxum info on this lens. The minimum focus distance with this lens is kind of long, so that might be an issue.</p>
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<p>From your post I don't know which tripods you looked at and feel are too heavy, but I just picked up a Manfrotto 7303yb for similar purposes. It's 4 section, aluminum, I think I'll tend to use it less than fully extended. I like the build. I think a monopod will gain a stop or two, but sometimes I want more than that. If something like this tripod is too big, I think you can do a fair amount with a cheap micro tripod, or just set the camera on something and use a cable or timer.</p>
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<p>I'd second the Kodak Portra recommendation. I have a Pentax 67II. I've used more of the 400 than 800, and like the 400 - NC for people, VC for more color. I find it scans fine. Haven't had the occasion to push it.<br>
I like the Portra 160NC (on a tripod) for group photos where I want to use fill flash and run into the 1/30 shutter speed max.</p>
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<p>The Diopter assembly does not seem to move in or out so I'm thnking that is the problem.</p>
<p>Thank You</p>
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<p>The viewfinder on my Pentax 645N has gone fuzzy, and adjusting the diopter ring doesn't seem to change it. It seems like the diopter adjustment is out of focus for me and doesn't work. Using an AF 45-85 lens it seems to autofocus ok, and the focus lock indicator comes on, but everything's fuzzy in the viewfinder.<br>
Has anyone else encountered this problem, or have an idea what might be going on, and how to fix it?</p>
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<p>I use an Epson V500 to scan 6x7 film. A recommendation I've seen that I agree with is that it will allow a 5x-6x enlargement from medium format film with good quality. I find with medium format film I print full frame 6x7 negatives ~ 12x16 inches fine. I don't like it to print scans of 35mm film.<br>
With the Nikon software I scan to TIFF format, I don't believe it allows direct scanning to DNG format, however extra software like Vuescan Professional appears that it may allow this.<br>
Epson has a clearance center online where they usually have refurbished V500's, that's where I got mine, don't know if it will work for you.</p>
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<p>I use an Epson V500 to scan 6x7 film. A recommendation I've seen that I agree with is that it will allow a 5x-6x enlargement from medium format film with good quality. I find with medium format film I print full frame 6x7 negatives ~ 12x16 inches fine. I don't like it to print scans of 35mm film.<br>
With the Nikon software I scan to TIFF format, I don't believe it allows direct scanning to DNG format, however extra software like Vuescan Professional appears that it may allow this.<br>
Epson has a clearance center online where they usually have refurbished V500's, that's where I got mine, don't know if it will work for you.</p>
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<p>I use an Epson V500 to scan 6x7 film. A recommendation I've seen that I agree with is that it will allow a 5x-6x enlargement from medium format film with good quality. I find with medium format film I print full frame 6x7 negatives ~ 12x16 inches fine. I don't like it to print scans of 35mm film.<br>
With the Nikon software I scan to TIFF format, I don't believe it allows direct scanning to DNG format, however extra software like Vuescan Professional appears that it may allow this.<br>
Epson has a clearance center online where they usually have refurbished V500's, that's where I got mine, don't know if it will work for you.</p>
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