dan_sabin

<p>Ok, sounds like this is somewhat interpretive and I have a little freedom with white balance. I am generally have with the white balance that ACR sets but if I don't agree with it I pick around grey areas with the dropper. I agree totally with walking away from the screen once in a while. I usually do when I think I'm satisfied and then when I come back to the screen I almost always have another little tweak or two. As far as lighting I generally have a little backlighting behind my screen. I didn't realize a colored room could cast a hew but it makes sense. My room color is pretty neutral. Good point about the variety of lighting and how it can affect white balance. Thank you all for your input. I feel a little more confident about my workflow.</p>

<p>Sorry, that was my first upload to this site and didn't add what I did...On the image I used the liquify filter to crank up the smile (from Sheldons idea), added vignette, used transform/skew to straighten the wall in the back, boosted the red just a tad, sharpened the boys eyes and Santas beard and added a frame.</p>

<p>Here's my take on it....<img src="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Dan/Desktop/00VBuF-198455584-3.jpg" alt="" /><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Dan/Desktop/00VBuF-198455584-3.jpg">file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Dan/Desktop/00VBuF-198455584-3.jpg</a></p><div></div>

<p>Thanks for your responses. I just purchased a grey card (Digital Image Flow) and haven't used it yet but will on my next shoot. I'm just learning the importance of color management. I currently open an image in camera raw and select "auto". If I like the the white balance I see I leave it and tweak any of the settings I think need attention. If not I use the eyedropper method, try to find a neutral grey and select it...Most times that helps. Sometimes I see the hue shift you show. "Depending how close to finished the image appears with regards to saturation and contrast when first opened" I think you're implying the importance of the correct or near white balance setting at the time of the shot, thus the importance of a grey card. The reason for my initial question was exactly referring to the examples you posted and the results I would get to hue shift. So as far as I can tell from what I'm hearing is 1. Try to get as close as you can to correct white balance when you take the shot. 2. If you feel white balance is off, correct it when you open your image (eyeballed result is not a bad thing) 3. Further adjust using saturation, etc..with the color temp you feel is good. 4. If you feel the other adjustments have thrown your white balance out of whack reset the white balance and adjust again if needed. Sound about right? </p>

<p>Just wondering when I should set white balance after I've opened my RAW image in ACR. Typically I see people suggest setting white balance first thing when you open your raw image (I like to use the eyedropper selecting a neutral gray color) but sometimes after making corrections I feel I may have affected the initial white balance selection and results of the initial selection. In this case should I reset the white balance again? I would also be interested in what others workflow in ACR for correction. I currently use CS4 and ACR 5.5.<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>OK...I've gone through the settings (custom and standard) I want for what I consider normal shooting conditions. I went to "register camera settings" then selected "OK" . My question is...Is there a way I can set up multiple variations and select them under "C" mode?</p>

<p>Appreciate the response. I bought it used for a reasonable price and looks like in spite of a few minor limitiations it will be a great introdution to flash photography until I understand all the variables involved. Again, thank you all for taking the time to respond.</p>

<p>I recently picked up a Canon 380 EX flash and was wondering if it's compatable to use on my 5D. From what I've read it seems it would be ok but I'd like to hear from someone currently using that combination. Thank You.</p>

<p>Sorry about the triple post folks, something was hanging up and I tried to submit 3 times before I saw it posted, then of course there were 3 of them. WT I agree with you totally about packing heavy. I wish someone would make an external frame pack for photographers. Actually, now that you mention it I might try to mount my Lowepro to my Kelty external frame.....</p>

<p>Marc,<br />I do a far amount of hiking with my gear. I usually have 2 bodies 3-4 lenses a tripod, a litre or two of water and some safety gear as I'm hiking alone. I use an older version of the Lowepro super trekker. The packs are rugged and well padded. I found their customer service to be excellent. My pack is heavy and for me there's no way around it but I've tried a few other backpacks and just couldn't organize my gear as well as I can with this setup. Comfort is reasonable for that amount of weight. Plus I like the fact that I can add smaller bags to it and find it very modular. I haven't used think tank before but I'm just sharing what I use. Good luck...<br />Dan</p>

<p>Marc,<br>

I do a far amount of hiking with my gear. I usually have 2 bodies 3-4 lenses a tripod, a litre or two of water and some safety gear as I'm hiking alone. I use an older version of the Lowepro super trekker. The packs are rugged and well padded. I found their customer service to be excellent. My pack is heavy and for me there's no way around it but I've tried a few other backpacks and just couldn't organize my gear as well as I can with this setup. Comfort is reasonable for that amount of weight. Plus I like the fact that I can add smaller bags to it and find it very modular. I haven't used think tank before but I'm just sharing what I use. Good luck...<br>

Dan</p>

<p>Marc,<br>

I do a far amount of hiking with my gear. I usually have 2 bodies 3-4 lenses a tripod, a litre or two of water and some safety gear as I'm hiking alone. I use an older version of the Lowepro super trekker. The packs are rubbed and well padded. I found their customer service to be excellent. My pack is heavy and for me there's no way around it but I've tried a few other backpacks and just couldn't organize my gear as well as I can with this setup. Comfort is reasonable for that amount of weight. Plus I like the fact that I can add smaller bags to it and find it very modular. I haven't used think tank before but I'm just sharing what I use. Good luck...<br>

Dan</p>

<p>I know you got a lot of answers on this but there were some coatings in earlier 5ds that could be sensitive to certain liquid cleaners. I had heard if your sensor has a yellowish/orange hue as you look at it that these were the sensor filter coatings vulnerable. I've only read of this but can't verify from experience. I would at least have a qualified person inspect it and get a quote for repair. If it is the filter it could be fairly expensive. I do wish you well on this. Let us know what you discover, it could be helpful to us 5D owners.</p>

<p>I bought a glass protector for my xsi from ebay, ggs brand, and am extremely happy with it. There are some offered there for the MarkII but don't seem to be available USA yet although I've heard of others ordering "out of USA" with no problem. I agree the actual LCD has a "hard plastic" cover stock but I if you wipe it and something abrasive is there it will scratch. I wipe my lcd screen frequently and dont worry about scratches with the glass screen protector. To me that's the beauty of a glass protector. These typically are multicoated and viewing isn't compromised.</p>

<p>Hi Swati...<br>

I'd highly recommend a Tamron SP AF 17 - 50mm f/2.8 XR DI-II. It's selling for about $450. I had one on my 400D and was extremely happy with it, I found it great for for landscapes and very pleased with image sharpness. Build was very good. It also has a 6 year warranty. Worth a look I think especially for a crop sensor, which you have. Good luck with whatever you choose.<br>

Dan</p>

<p>I've read the manual on 5D custom funtion settings, understand a lot of them, but still have some questions about some of the settings and how they may best be used for different scenarios. Does anyone have a link to an in depth explanation of all these setiings and options? Thanks.</p>

<p>Andrew....<br>

I'm not familiar with either but as the old the old saying goes "If it's too good to be true it probably is..." probably applies here. Best bet is to check the rating of the store at <a href="http://www.resellerratings.com/">http://www.resellerratings.com/</a> to see how other consumers rate them.<br>

Good luck...</p>

 

<p>Thanks folks you've given me some good info to digest. I'm going to work with this more this weekend. I appreciate you taking the time to respond. Any other input would be welcome as well.</p>

<p>Ok, I've been reading the manual and taking test shots but I still need help fully grasping this. I would appreciate input and reference to tutorials if they exist. What I think I know and what I know I don't:<br>

1. I have 9 visible autofocus points including one center.<br>

2. The center AF point is most accurate. Cross type vertical and horizontal line detection.<br>

3. Vertical line detection is twice as accurate as horizontal. All points except center are horizontal.<br>

4. Spot metering circle has 6 additional hidden AF points that only work in AI focus at 2.8 both horizontal and vertical (2.8 only?) and turn to horizontal only at 5.6 (5.6 only?)<br>

What I'm not sure of....<br>

1. Is it better to center lock and recompose or use the outer 8 points?<br>

2. Any reason why I shouldn't just use AI servo since some of my photos are not moving some are?<br>

3. I think the invisible Assist points are turned on in custom functions, any reason to not just turn them on and leave them on.<br>

Thanks, those are my initial questions I'm sure I'll have more. I'm trying to keep the questions as simple as I can at this point (for myself). I really want to confront these qustions so I can fully understand. I'd be happy to absorb any input you can provide.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I had a Tamron 17-50 2.8 for my XTI and was extremely pleased with it. Couple that with one of Canons 70-200's and I think you will be pretty happy. If you need the 400mm reach go for 100-400 now, otherwise the 70-200's are respectable and can usually be sold to upgrade with minimal loss in value. Good luck...</p>

Sorry about the double post, I didn't think the first went through. Off subject? Is there a way I can delete my own post?

Thanks,

Dan

I might add it's good to occasionally blow out the sensor area with the camera body facing down towards the ground.

This will help evacuate any loose particles....

I might add it's good to occasionally blow out the sensor area with the camera body facing down towards the ground. This will help evacuate any loose particles....

Years back I used to shoot film but as time went on film and processing became to expensive for me to continue, at

least in the area of experimentation. Photos I would take were generally "safe". As time went on I drifted away from

doing something I really enjoyed because of expense. When I finally decided to get back into photography I went

digital and was so happy I did. It enables me to experiment and learn a whole lot more about photography in general.

My darkroom is now virtual, free of chemicals, freeing up space and time. I'm able to get almost instant results and

failures aren't costly. Now we're not lens limited and I think the combination of digital cameras and available

software enable us to produce images that are equal or exceed those of film, not trying to start an argument with

that statement, just

my thoughts : ) ...

I agree Dan...I was doing some experimenting and was just suprised and puzzled to see those spots...My reaction was "What the heck is that!". That's what got me started. Appreciate your advice as well!