hans_kerensky

<p>Well,as we say, better late then never :-)<br>

Do not soak or flush the shutter completely. That will result in old lubricants being partly dissolved, transported by the fluid (naphtha) and deposited somewhere else.<br>

You could try a partial flush however, just the escapement, and let the flushing fluid run directly out of the shutter. If you are not familiar will these things (opening shutter etc.) then practice first on a similar shutter from a thrashed camera.</p>

<p>The star (asteriks) behind the serial number indicates that your Super Ikonta 531 was produced somewhere between 1945 and 1949 and was produced with one or more parts pre-produced before the end of WW2. Zeiss Ikon had a hard time then getting in production again and sometimes even used Schneider Xenar lenses for their cameras.<br>

<br />See also : http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Super_Ikonta_531</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks Allan !<br>

I had to go quite a long way to get it shooting again. Luckily i managed :-)</p>

<p>No doubt the Yashice-E is an unique camera.<br>

Very complicated on one side (auto-exposure system) but also very simple on the other (only 1 shutter speed).</p>

<p>If you know how to handle it (tripod !) descent images can be made and of course it's also a real collectable being that rare.</p>

 

<p>Nice images Allan !<br /> Guess when you use this TLR on a tripod the 1/60 sec. will not be that a problem unless you have moving subjects.<br /><br />For those curious, here an image of what you find behind the Lens Cover :<br /> <img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7223/13943366872_3464056abe.jpg" alt="" width="364" height="500" /><br /> <a href="

This one from the earlier type.</p>

 

<p>That's true but i should have written that the whole cable release mechanism is missing so also the essential threaded pipe were it goes through (see red arrow).</p>

<p><img src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6054/6362342003_8e8414ecd9.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Q.G., Alas the Rolleigrip was in that 5 Euro box because it had 1 essential thing missing, the wire release !!<br>

Without that you can do nothing with it except using it as a cheap Rolleifix source.<br>

However, full working Rolleigrips turn up at a regular basis on photographica markets and the internet. That one which you see at my Flickr Photostream did cost me € 25,--. It even still was in its original box :-) Bought that one on the anual Doesburg Open Air Photographica Fair.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>It does make economical sense ! Some weeks ago i found a Pistol grip containing a mint Roleifix in a 5 Euro-box on a Photographica fair here in The Netherlands :-)</p>

 

<p>Getting these middle lenses out of a leafshutter occasionaly needs to be done with a lot of force. Usually i take the shutter from the camera before applying such a force.<br>

Another method is by strongly pushing the middle lens brass tube against a rubber mat and rotating the whole shutter ccw. Again, for this method the shutter has to be taken from the camera.<br>

<img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5300/5502276194_6fcf6ed968_n.jpg" alt="" /><br>

Another way to clean the rear of the middle lens, and already mentioned before, is to get the rear lens out, set the shutter on B and keep it open with a lockable wire release and use Q-tips to clean the glass.<br />This method also has some dangers. <br />First, the rear element may come loose once you removed its ring and may fall out so it is important to mark the outer side with a piece of low tag tape so you know which side has to be out during re-install.<br />Second, there is allways the danger that the wire release shoots out of the socket thread and so the shutter closes while you are just poking with a Q-tip between the blades. So make sure that this cannot happen. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>The drawing seems to be made after the one shown in a Zeiss Ikon French patent description of the 1st September 1941 and depicts the patent drawing very well. So guess it's genuine information</p>

<p>Hi Guys,<br />An Internet buddy of mine has a problem with repairing his Electric. He is looking for<br />information about the position of a gearwheel at fully closed and fully open diaphragma.<br />Just wondered if you could help him out ?<br /><br />The link to his question is here :<a href=" /><br />Thanks in advance,<br /><br />Hans<br /></p>

<p>Just recently opened up an Iskra 2 which has the same filmtransportmechanism as the Iskra 1.<br />I doubt that anything easy can be done about the overlapping as the framepositions are fixed in the construction of the 2 sprocketwheels. Only thing that would possibly work is changing the ratio of the gearwheels which is something that calls for a very crafty (and enthusiastic) mechanic.<br>

A picture of the filmframe sprocketwheels can be seen here :<br>

<a href="

<p> </p>

I also obtained an Askania 33 rangefinder. The read distance and the vertical positioning of "ghost"-image where way of.

Just was curious and opened the rangefinder. I made a photo-set with comments about this action. You can find ith here :

 

 

In short, the Askania 33 is a low-tech rangefinder but still you can sort of calibrate it. I calibrated mine on a target-distance of 1 meter and after that the infinity seemed also to be alright.