jay_jay12

Daylight tanks for B&W are not as good as the dip & dunk method. I have developed a lot of 4x5 B&W sheet film and I found one thing always occurs; I need to add 4 minutes to whatever development time it says.

For Real.

 

Ever seen one of those malfunctioning robots in those Sci-Fi movies that is repeatedly running into the wall?

Would you give your film to one of those robots to develop? Just think of those people that develop film at one of those kind of places as a malfunctioning robot. If it isn't a ProLab it is a waste of film.

 

I would like to make one exception: Sam's Club makes really good prints.

 

Dion you should develop your film at home and it would only cost $32.47 for the BASIC material. You can develop your film better than a prolab and I will explain why: You know how you shot your film (Direct sunlight vs. Shade, indoors or outdoors, etc...), and you can personally develop your film accordingly. A prolab won't ask you how you shot your film and will process it like it did the 100 rolls of film it did during the last week. Also you get to choose your chemicals: you want a high acutance developer or a low acutance developer, you want you want a film developer that provides flatter results or a developer that provides a higher contrast, etc...

 

I will provide a couple of links of the few things you need to accomplish this goal of developing film in your own bathroom:

 

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=301&pid=1000003022

 

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=303&pid=1000003025

 

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=5611 OR

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=5612

 

(one is 35mm and one is 120 size film [or double 35mm])

 

Total cost AFTER SHIPPING = $37.46

 

I have personally never used these chemicals nor do I endorse them. I just simply looked for the cheapest chemcals to provide an example. Having said that I am sure those chemicals will work just fine. In fact, I bet you will develop better than a drug store film developing location.

320 ISO

Standing development can cause some serious uneven development.

 

An alternative to standing development is simply pouring the developer out and putting water in. And then pouring the water out and putting the developer back in. You can do this as many times as you want. It causes the shadows to slowdown and the highlights to catch up.

No you can't.

 

People there are not very well educated in photography and I doubt they'd even know the difference between a C-41 film and a Non-C41 film, but they'd throw your traditional B&W film into that Fuji monster and develop it in C41 chemicals and think they were doing a good job.

Underdevelopment and/or underexposure.

 

Use a gray card and bracket exposures and you won't have that problem anymore

There are varieties of 25 ISO 120 size film:

 

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=1000001679

 

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=1000001710

 

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=1000002129

 

Does it have to be TP or will these other films do alright?

I don't think Kodak would've went through all the trouble of creating TMY2 if 120 size film was going to be universally discontinued.

Hey Bob:

 

Nice Print,

Can you post a link where to get pencils or whatnot you did that with?

 

Thanks

Adox ATM49:

 

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=1000002572

Thanks Doug, thats what I needed, a concrete answer/example to a simple question. That distortion doesn't look bad at all. After seeing this picture a 35mm lens seems much better than a standard 55mm for wide angle purposes.

 

What I really wanted to know was whether 35mm is so wide for 6x4.5 it would bow out and start to look a little like a fisheye lens. The picture shows it doesn't.

 

Thank you.

It is real easy:

 

You refrigerate film normally.

 

You freeze film when you bought so much of one film you can't possibly shoot it all in time before it expires.

You're a very diligent photographer Stephen.

"Who would hire someone who has dedicated their critical education to a dying medium?"

 

Medium doesn't matter. The goal of a photography degree is to learn how to take a picture. Who cares how the picture was taken.

 

I have seen pictures taken with a Holga that represent a firmer grasp of photographic skill than some digital pictures enhanced with HDR.

I simply want to know how distorted it will be. would say, it be the same distortion as a 22mm on a 35mm camera?

I have a question for everyone:

 

If silver content doesn't matter (and I admit I don't know if it does or doesn't) then how come film companies advertise their film has a high silver content like Efke?

Here is the Ilford Chart:

 

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2006216122447.pdf

 

I would suggest stock D76 cause you already added contrast to the film by choosing to push it. Using 1+1 will add contrast a second time.

 

The chart says FP4 and D76 stock = 9 minutes @ 200iso. 400iso is another entire stop. Maybe 11.5 minutes to 14 minutes?

 

Good Luck

Excellent portrait Jay.

 

Adox ATM49 developer has low acutance. This makes things appear soft, including grain. ATM49 developer is also an excellent push process developer.

 

This website gives a nice acutance example: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sharpness_(visual)

Specialty films are no where near being dead, the mass of links people provide prove it.

 

This is the B&W film development room, not a digital manipulation room.

Neopan 400 & yellow filter. Adox ATM49 developer.

I suggest a fixed focal length and medium telephoto lens.

How bad is the distortion with a 35mm lens on 6x4.5 format?

Bradley:

 

You didn't ask whether silver rich or silver poor film was better.

 

You asked which film has more silver. I don't know the answer to you question.

 

All I can provide you is with a link to Efke films which boast high silver content.

 

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=1000001711

 

There may be other film companies that boast a high silver content that I am not aware.

Russ he said the roll may have been pushed 1 or 2 stops. If he only adds 10% to a 2 stop push on decades old film he won't get anything.

This is an entire page of 100' bulk rolls. It contains 25 choices of 100' 35mm roll film:

 

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_search.php?rfnc=402&default[]=film&q=film&iso[]=&exp[]=100%20ft&mfg=all&sp=d

 

And this is the direct link to TriX 100':

 

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=955