rich long
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Posts posted by rich long
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You could keep tabs (or ask questions) on the discussion forums at <A HREF="http://colorado.naturephotographers.net">Colorado Nature Photographers</A>. There will be a fair amount of discussion there about local conditions. Right now, the snowpack in the San Juans is 176% of average, so don't expect any Forest Service roads in that part of the state to open early this spring.
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It will be the case, unless you get a telephoto lens. These require less bellows draw than the focal length of the lens (at infinity focus), but there are some drawbacks when it comes to camera movements. I think you could use a 360T on your ShenHao, and certainly a 300T.
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Peter, what area are you in? I've been hearing rumors about the death of Velvia 50 for a year now, but haven't seen any direct evidence so far.
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Spend a day reading the info <a href="http://www.largeformatphotography.info/" >here</a>. Then figure out what the class requirements are and buy some gear. Keep an eye on the used inventory at MidWest Photo, KEH Camera, and B&H, in addition to EvilBay.
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Once you've achieved perfection, I guess you're finished. I'm nowhere near it yet, so I'll keep trying to improve my technique, composition, and ability to capture the scene in the best light. When I can perfectly compose, expose, and print every image that I attempt to capture, I'll sell my photo gear and look for something else to challenge myself with.
I suppose that if I was searching for 'meaning' in my photos, I'd be discouraged. But I enjoy the challenge of the process and once in a while, the results of the process. (I find the process required with large format a little more enjoyable than the point and shoot process.)
I see room for improvement in every photo I've ever taken. That's all the meaning I need - every photo means that I'm not as good at this as I could be. But I keep some of those photos because they're 'good enough' and they have a memory attached - a hike in the mountains, a fall day along a river, a quiet sunrise beside the lake. YMMV.
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Quoted from the <a href="http://www.ebonycamera.com/cam.html" >Ebony website</a>:
"All SV cameras are foldable, with a 30? drop-bed, and have center (or asymmetrical) and base tilts at back, and center and base tilts at front."
There's a pdf of the "SV User's Guide" on the website. It may help.
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I'm a complete novice myself. However, I'll pass along a little of what's in John Shaw's Photoshop Field Guide. He has 11 pages devoted to sharpening, including specific examples and step by step descriptions of his technique. Like his other books, this one is well worth the purchase price. But I must admit that I haven't taken the time to implement much of his technique yet. So don't look at my photos expecting to see the results of his techniques.
John says that he uses a 3-step process. First, a minimal sharpening to correct for the softness from digital camera or scanner. Second, he sharpens specific areas of the image. Third, he does an overall sharpening.
For the initial step, he recommends as a starting point to try Amount 350, radius 0.3, threshold 0, but notes that every photo is different and these numbers are just suggestions. In his first example, he uses 350, 0.7 and 3 for the first step.
His second step, sharpening specific areas, is more complex. He's using it on fall foilage in his first example. At the risk of oversimplifying his example, he selects and copies a specific area of the image, pastes it into a new layer, and sharpens on that layer. He gives two alternatives for sharpening this layer and getting it back into the overall photo.
For the third step, he uses the High Pass filter at a 30 pixel setting in his examples.
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If you're interested in purchasing professional images of the Smokies, you should contact <a href="http://www.jerrygreerphotography.com/" >Jerry Greer</a>.
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In that case, I haven't a clue why my images are getting comments and ratings.
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I uploaded a few photos over the weekend and a couple of them have gathered comments and ratings. I didn't request a critique on any of them, and I haven't notified anyone that I posted anything. I was quite surprised by this, but as best I can tell, any photo that is uploaded will show up under the "rate recent images" category. If 3 people happen to rate the image and give it high marks, then it could also show up on the 'top rated photos' pages.
I quit requesting critiques about a year ago, when the only comment that an image received was "Drop shadow sucks" along with a 0/0 rating. I decided that real critiques were best found elsewhere.
Although it's not the site's intended purpose, I now just maintain a few images here that I can direct people to when they want to see what I've been shooting lately. If I could, I'd disable the 'ratings and critiques' capability for everything in my folder. This site is still a fantastic learning resource, but it's a lot different than it was 7, 5, or even 3 years ago.
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Never mind.... Sorry. Moderators, please delete this question.
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I'm just curious about this. I recently uploaded some new photos to a
folder in 'my workspace'. I did not request critiques on these, but
two of these photos have been commented on and rated. Why?
Do new photos automatically appear in some particular category?
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Here in Colorado Springs, there's only one place that processes 4x5 E6 - they charge $2.25 per sheet for 6-hour processing. If I take my film to Denver, the lab I use there charges $1.80 per sheet for 2-hour processing. (If anyone in the Springs has a better alternative, please let me know.)
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Yep. Looks exactly like the boards for my Tachihara. Also fits Wista and some others.
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CG nailed it. Evaluate the possible compositions before you pick up the camera and before the sun is disappearing. Then set up with the lens that makes that composition possible, and wait for the light. Think ahead, be patient, plan your shots. It doesn't always work out the way you expected, but you'll get a higher keeper ratio than if you just try to grab semi-random shots at the last second.
It took me several years to learn this and put it into practice, maybe you can improve on my record.
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Oops, sorry Scott. Didn't realize that was you on both forums.
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This very topic is being discussed <a href="http://forums.naturephotographers.net/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=8306088241&f=25110141&m=8920054262">
here.</a>
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Some of the locals hang out over at <a href="http://southwest.naturephotographers.net">
Southwest Nature Photographers</a>
You might see if they have any suggestions.
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What's the word on John Shaw's CD - "Photoshop Field Guide"? Has anyone used it?
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I would echo Tuan's comment. If you HAVEN'T seen Jim Brandenburg's book, you really should.
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The pdf manual can now be found at www.largeformatphotography.info
Scroll down the page to 'Camera Reviews', find the Tachihara review, and look at the bottom of that page.
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It's just the standard Tachi manual. How to open, close, etc. There was a third page inserted into mine about how to avoid crimping the bellows. Pretty simple stuff, really. If you want a copy, send an email to me - 'richlongphoto at earthlink dot net'. The pdf is on my laptop, I'll send it out tomorrow.
BTW, I sent a copy to QT Luong, he said he'd post a link to it on the Tachi review at largeformatphotography.info.
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Michael-
Check your email for the PDF version that I just sent.
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Schneider's web page indicates that the lens was recommended for 2" by (almost) 3" negatives (56x72). The seller indicates that he used it "to make 5x7 inch negatives". Seems to be some disconnect there.
http://www.schneideroptics.com/info/vintage_lens_data/large_format_lenses/xenotar/data/2,8-80mm.html
Lens selection
in Large Format
Posted
I started with a 150, then added a 250, then a 90. Later, I sold the 150 and 250, replaced them with 135 and 200. Still saving my pennies for a 300, but once I have that, I'll be set for quite a while.
The 200 shoots about half of my images, and the 135 get most of the rest. The 90 is very useful when I need it, but that's only about 10-15% of the time.