krooshof

<p>My first impression is L L R. And it's only the first impression that counts anyway when looking at pictures. I think most people would agree on that. Can't wait to find out what the mystery system is. You really know the photo.net psychology, teasing us with this test!</p>

<p>I tried it today with an old takumar 200mm f/3.5 preset lens. It seems that the RTS III can meter something in aperture mode, because the shutter times audibly change when I open up or close the aperture. The viewfinder indicates f1.7 for some reason, I know this isn't the maximum f-stop the body can handle. Perhaps I should check against a spot meter, but there is hope! The actual reason for asking, by the way, is that I might purchase a 105mm f/2.8 Super-Takumar. Have any of you got any experience with this lens in black and white? The Contax 85mm and 100mm objectives are still really expensive.</p>

<p>I have a Contax RTS III which I'm quite fond of. I would like to use M42 lenses with this body, and I have the appropriate adapter ring. I just can't figure out how to use the lightmeter in the body now that the body doesn't receive any aperture information. I know that a Contax 167mt can meter with M42 lenses in program mode, but the RTS III doesn't have program mode. Does anyone on Photo.net know how to tackle this?</p>

<p>Hello everybody,<br>

I'm thinking about trying out DS-10, the developer designed by Ryuji Suzuki because it is said to work well with Tmax films, and I would like to know if it is an improvement compared to my own 'Patrick Gainer inspired' developer.<br>

So far I've been using a very simple recipe: 11 grams of washing soda, 4 grams of ascorbic acid and 2 ml of dimezone-S solution in 500 ml of water. (The Dimezone-S solution contains 0.95 grams of Dimezone-S in 100 ml of denatured alcohol) I'm quite satisfied with the results, but I would like to test DS-10 to compare the two. I could off course take a commercially available developer as a benchmark, but I would like to know if I can get better results with homebrew methods since I enjoy that kind of work.<br>

One of the reasons I use a very simple one shot fresh preparation is the availability of chemicals. Only the Dimezone-S is difficult to come by, but I use very little. The recipe of DS-10 required 10 ml of TEA per liter. In Holland TEA or triethanolamine is difficult to get. So here is the question: What is the function of TEA in DS-10, and can it be replaced or omitted if the developer is used fresh only?<br>

I hope some of the more knowledgable members can help me out here!<br>

Douwe</p>

<p>Dear FD users,<br>

I want to take a group shot from a distance with a 90mm lens. I have a tokina AT-X 90mm f/2.5 and a FD 85mm f/1.2 L for my canon T90, and a contax G sonnar 90mm f/2.8 for my contax G1. I plan to shoot around f/5.6. I am very happy with the performance of all lenses, but I am interested in what you would choose and what positive experiences you might have with any of the lenses mentioned above.</p>

<p>Kind regards,<br>

Douwe</p>

<p>Thank you Buzz, for pointing out that this is how the sunpak is supposed to work. I know that the 622 should work in ttl mode, because it is suggested in the manual. It is just strange that you see the maximum aperture value blinking in the viewfinder of the T90.<br>

Thank you for the tip on the 300TL. I will probably get one eventually, but the sunpak 622 was just dirt cheap, and it has a guide number of 200ft! (270ft for a 135mm lens with the zoom head...)<br>

Thanks again,<br>

Douwe</p>

<p>I use a canon T90 for most of my photography, mainly with a 35mm f/2 s.s.c. concave front element and a 85mm f/1.2 L. I would like to start with flash photography, and I bought a Sunpak auto 622 pro-system for 5 euros (!). With it came a CA-3D dedicated unit that is supposed to support TTL with the T90 and EOS cameras. I use a EXT-11 cord to connect the dedicated unit to the flash.<br>

When I power up the camera and the flash, with the flash in TTL mode and the camera on program, I see the following information in the viewfinder:<br>

the shutterspeed: 1/90 sec.<br>

the aperture: 2.0 (the maximum aperture of the lens)<br>

the green flash ready symbol.<br>

Can any of the photographers here at the FD forum tell me if the camera will work properly in TTL mode like this, or has any of you experience with sunpak strobes on the T90? I've not been able to find out on the internet how this combo is ment to work.<br>

Thanks<br>

Douwe</p>

<p> </p>