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bj_larsson

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Posts posted by bj_larsson

  1. <p>I almost want to say that the camera won't matter for the course. Does the course outline have a set of specs for what your camera needs to have?</p>

    <p>If you can, pick up some cameras and see how they feel. I've shot (and continue to shoot) with a number of different film cameras (rangerfinder, lomo, SLR, medium format) and each has their highs & lows.<br>

    But, to start, the equipment should not be the focus of your attention. It should be the process, composition and workflow. As long as the gear doesn't get in the way (i.e. malfunction, perform inconsistently or not let you set the values you want) it should allow you to learn what you need / want from the course.</p>

    <p>If you want to ignore all that I wrote above and just get a film camera recommendation, get a Nikon FM2n with a 50mm f1.8. Done ;)</p>

  2. <p>I shoot B&W still and develop my own. But I don't print. I scan the negatives (at home on an Epson V500).</p>

    <p>I'm still happy with the results and find that working with film has made me change my digital approach as well. I especially enjoy shooting medium format, both Holga and Pentax 645. I simply find that I get more 'keepers'.</p>

    <p>YMMV. :)</p>

    <p> </p>

  3. <p>Colin: I think the key is to figure out what you want the camera for.</p>

    <p>On the MF side, I have both a Pentax 645 (which is great) and a Holga. The Holga is light, easy to carry anywhere, anytime, and when I break it I don't really care (I just snapped the entire lens assembly off, and 'gooped' it back on; everything works ;) ). The results are "fun". </p>

    <p>The Pentax 645 is one of the more 'carriable' MF systems, it feels like a large SLR in my hands and I don't mind carrying it around. It creates very sharp, high quality images. But if anything I'd call the results 'serious' as opposed to the Holga. An the photos are most definitely not square and have a very different feel. I really like it as well.</p>

    <p>Those two are extremely far apart in how / where I'd use them (and I picked up the Pentax for $160 on craigslist so it's not like I spent a fortune on it). I think your MF experience will be so significantly different, that I'd classify the Holga as a LOMO camera first, and a MF camera second.</p>

    <p>My advice: Go buy something that appeals to you and try it out. The MF market doesn't seem to be dropping much (if at all) from what I've seen. So if it doesn't appeal, sell what you picked up. Buy what you like, keep what you love.</p>

    <p>Best of luck.</p>

    <p>Bjorn</p>

  4. <p>Anthony: My "main" body is a D300, but I have 2x FM2n's, a Canonet QL17, Holga, and Petax 645 as well.<br>

    I don't really share lenses between the FM2n's and the D300. I have a 28, 50 and 105 on the film side and they stay with the film gear.</p>

    <p>If I had to do it all over again, I probably would have just chosen medium format for the film side and stuck with 'just digital' on the 'other' side.</p>

    <p>I only shoot B&W with film and develop and scan it myself, so that's much cheaper than sending it out.</p>

    <p>Just a thought.</p>

    <p>Bjorn</p>

  5. <p>I shoot with a Holga (sometimes) and it's just fun.</p>

    <p>Extra benefit? When the weather is horrible or there is a real chance something will get damaged or stolen, replacing a $29.95 Holga isn't going to break the bank.</p>

    <p>Taking a crappy photo with a Holga doesn't make it magically better. But if using a lomo camera improves your visualization of what you want to achieve and helps you to think about the shot, the look and feel you want, it can have some great results... for very little money :)</p>

  6. <p>Have you sat down and actually analyzed your "winners"? Do they come primarily from one or two lenses? If so, carry those.</p>

    <p>No sense carrying things "just in case".</p>

    <p>I really like Leigh B.'s suggestion. I'd add that once you have your focal length fixed, you may just find that your technique changes and improves and you'll find the shot suitable to what you have mounted. </p>

  7. <p>I agree with Bueh B. Get a 35mm RF first and see if that appeals to you before spending significant dollars on an MF system. We're not talking a lot of dollars here if you go with a fixed lens RF, I picked up a Canonet QL17III for $30 a couple of years ago (pricing is of course relative depending on locales).</p>

    <p> </p>

  8. <p>If you're really wanting to experiment, why not start with a Holga. Why does it have to be an SLR?</p>

    <p>Holgas are great for experimentation. </p>

    <p>If not, what type of experimentation are you looking for? Just to play around with film? Are you going to print as well, or just develop? Personally, I develop my own B&W film and then scan it after. Lately I have found myself drawn much more towards medium format and ended up buying a Holga and also a Pentax 645. Note that I also own and shoot with FM2n's and a Canonet QL17. All good cameras, all with their own charm and worth owning if you can pick them up for a reasonable price, depending on your location.</p>

    <p>Best of luck, enjoy the new workflow and approach that will hopefully come working with analog :)</p>

    <p>Bjorn</p>

  9. <p>At what price point?</p>

    <p>While I agree that a wide prime would be nice, I'm not sure how many of them Nikon would sell if they were truly a DX lens.</p>

    <p>Plus, there are plenty of decent 3rd partly lenses to compete with. Both the 10-20mm Sigma and the 11-16 Tokina seem quite capable. I own the Sigma and you'd have to present me with some really amazing value in a Nikon lens to make me sell it / pick up the Nikon. And mine isn't even the 'new' Sigma with the constant aperture. At 10mm on DX I'm also not convinced I need 2.8 (don't have it now, never really had a need for it).</p>

    <p>Just my $0.02. Perhaps I'm just not the target market :)</p>

  10. <p>Like other have said, the grass is always greener.</p>

    <p>If you want it, and can afford it, make the switch. Vote with your dollar (or pound / euro / yen ;) ). But I wouldn't expect to see huge differences in the quality of the photos. If you're not getting good results with the D90 / 35 1.8 / 85 1.8, I'd be surprised if the switch of brand would lead to it. And if you _are_ getting great results ... well, then you'll probably make nice photos with whatever gear you happen to be using.</p>

  11. <p>Rhonda: I would suggest that _all_ the current DSLR from either company can make stunning prints up to 12" x 18" and probably even larger. The biggest factor is in fact the photographers ability and skill (which includes getting the most out of the equipment, having proper support, i.e. tripod. shooting with a cable or timed release etc. etc. ).</p>

    <p>How large are you looking to print? </p>

    <p>My advice would be to try and get the systems into your hands to see how they feel. Which ergonomics, menus and layouts you prefer. </p>

    <p>Best of luck.</p>

    <p>Bjorn</p>

  12. <p>I don't think you've provided quite enough info. jim makes a good point about printing, what's your final output / quality requirement?</p>

    <p>Also, are there any specific lenses that you _have_ to be able to use? Are all of them AFS? I.E. can you use your lenses on a non-screw driven body like a D60 or a D3100? A D3100 with a 18-55 VR and 55-200VR would make a fairly light and flexible kit. An 18-200 VR <em>may </em>(heavy emphasis on 'may') work, but you'd need to be very aware of it's limitations. IMO, the lenses are a significant component of the weight, so this is a 'combination problem'.</p>

    <p>Personally, I just picked up a Canon Powershot S95 for my 'super-light & carry everywhere' camera. Some of the m4/3 systems may also be a viable option. Have a look at: http://craigmod.com/journal/gf1-fieldtest/ I think there are some excellent images there and it looks like a very capable kit.</p>

    <p>Just my $0.02 :)</p>

    <p>Best of luck.</p>

    <p>Bjorn</p>

    <p> </p>

  13. <p>PBM H: I don't think it's that easy of a comparison. IMO you'd have to compare with lens and camera body combination you're shooting with.</p>

    <p>Also, I'm not certain how useful that comparison is in a beginner group. IMO, people worry too much about the gear without worrying enough about gaining the skills necessary to get the most out of the gear. We're talking about some fairly high end bodies with rather lengthy feature lists.</p>

    <p>But then, the only full frame I shoot is film ;)</p>

    <p>Just my $0.02.</p>

  14. <p>Everyone learns differently. Some folks only learn by doing, others do well reading, most need to read a bit, then apply what they just tried to grasp.</p>

    <p>Take small steps, work on one concept at a time, try to understand why something makes an interesting or a non-interesting photo. </p>

    <p>Repeat.</p>

    <p> </p>

  15. <p>I'm not sure how to read the initial post, but if August is correct in the interpretation, I'd have to agree ... to a point.</p>

    <p>For instance, I can not tell the difference between an old manual focus Nikkor 50mm f1.8 E series or the 'modern' 50mm f1.8 AF-D Nikkor. </p>

    <p>But I wouldn't take that too far. For instance, I really enjoy the Nikkor 105mm f2.5 AIS lens. But I wouldn't say that all 105 mm lenses are equal :)</p>

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