gregory_goh
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Posts posted by gregory_goh
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Only thing is the TLA200 will not let you dial in exposure
compensation directly like the SF20 can - you have to do it by a
roundabout way on the G2 itself. Not one of the better
implementations of TTL flash on the G2 IMO :-)
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Absolutely!
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Allows me to be less flustered (with the AE), and also to be more
considered (in manual mode) - best of both worlds
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M7 0.72 + 1.25 Magnifier (assuming accessories are allowed!) +
Noctilux + Ilford XP2 Super
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Press the shutter halfway down!
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Jerry, thanks for the info - just to clarify, which window exactly
the one you look through, or the forsted/serrated one next to it (on
the M bodies)
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Thanks again
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Hi
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I read in another forum about sticking a yellow/orange/red filter (gelatin type I guess) over the rangefinder - the discussion was that this would improve the contrast to help in low light focusing
I know that the LTM cameras had just such a accessory, which was orange, and was just wondering if anyone was practising this, does it work and what shade is the best along the yellow to red spectrum?
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Thanks very much in advance :-)
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Thanks very much, Micah - that was great info
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Hi
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Just wondering if anyone had any recipe and procedure for developing
Techpan in a rotary processor like a Jobo?
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Cheers,
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I belive B+W also make a warm polarizer
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If it is always the same line segment in the LED display then you
may well have a faultly display
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All my lenses fit on both my M7's (35/1.4 ASPH, 50/1.0, 75/1.4,
90/2.0 APO. Since it is new would suggest you have it checked
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Good luck,
Greg
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Hi
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Just my very personal view - I own two, having upgraded from M6
(classics). I would say as long as you remember to keep spare
batteries (and this to my mind is not a hardship), then the M7 gives
you more choices of shooting styles than the M6 - you get manual and
AE. The more accurate shutter is also a plus if you are shooting
chromes.
What to me is the greatest advantage with the AE is that it releases
me from the derivative step of having to set the shutter speed after
deciding the aperture. You of course need to know the meter and know
what to do in unusual lighting situations, but for me 99% of the time
the exposures come out fine, and I find myself concentrating more on
composition, which is my own personal challenge
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Greg
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Thanks again Gary,
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Now look what you've done :-)
I am now wondering if I should have a Summicron to join the Noct!
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Greg
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Hey Steve, I found another page on HP marketing's site:
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http://www.hpmarketingcorp.com/PR/Ergorest%20pr.html
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Here is an extract:
"....(8.8 X 7.1 X 2.9 inch)...a multi-functional support that mounts
to car windows, chest pod, shoulder pod, macro stand, flash stand and
table tripod
At full height (less head), is 6.7 inches high and weighs 1.65 pounds.
Three camera/head mounting positions, double thread brass screw fits
equipment with either -20 or 3/8� tripod sockets, stainless steel,
covered with rubberized material up to 3.8mm thick, is adjusted with
adjustable locking lever, built-in finger grips"
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Looks like you can attach your own ballhead as well
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Exactly!
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But beyond this link below and the earlier one I posted from kb
camera, have not been able to find any dimensions - extrapolating
from the SLR is is shown with, and the leica on the kb camera site, I
would say around 7-10 inches in leg length? It does sound interesting
as a chestpod!
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Hi
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I was just wondering if anyone had any experience or feedback on this interesting item?
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http://www.kbcamera.com/ergorest.htm
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Cheers,
Greg
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Hi Gary
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Many thanks for a very user-friendly, real-world review :-)
Makes me appreciate my Noct even more, and maybe someday after lots
of practice I can produce great pics like yours.
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Greg
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Can I just chime in here again - with the provision that budget is
not the issue, in my view the M7 allows you to be both manual and
semi-automated - if you want to think 100% manual per the M6 camp,
simply don't use the auto mode. On the other hand if you want the AE
etc, then use the auto mode.
What I like about the M7 is that is offers the first time owner like
Robert the choice - like I said, best of both worlds
Again just my 2 cents
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Greg
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Yes definitely my M3 gave a much more accurate idea of the 50mm view
than my M6
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Hi
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My 2 cents worth...
If budget is not a problem get the M7. The battery issue is, to my
mind, minor - just remember to carry spare batteries. The M6 needs
batteries as well.
The AE allows you to concentrate more on composition after having
set the DOF with the aperture ring, (the meter is a spotmeter so you
do need to bear that in mind with unusually lit scenes)Also the
shutter, being electronic, is supposed to be more accurate in timing
If you want to operate the M6 mode, simply go to manual; it will
work in exactly the same way as an M6. I also read somewhere that
the meter is supposedly more sensitive in low light and more
accurate than the M6, although I could not say by how much
If you envision using flash, then the M7 gives you more flash
options as well
All in all, I would say the M7 adds to the M6 and you can have the
best of both worlds from it
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Greg
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Hi again
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Can't really tell - I would say the camera, but have also heard of
Tri-Elmar owners having problems with framelines, in their case I
think it's the lens. One way to find out is to test with another
28mm lens, so I guess a dealer or a friend who happens to have one?
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Hi Mark
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Yes, it's suppposed to...
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Thanks to everyone for the advice :-)
I think I'll just not bother about the (potential) alignment problems
unless the photos indicate a problem, and in the meantime I'll just
enjoy the "look" !
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Greg
Leica vs....Some Contax G images (including 90mm)
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted
Just got a G2 with the 45 Planar + TLA200, and I can hardly tell the
difference between the pics from that and the 50 Summicron (latest
version), handheld, Kodak 100SW or XP2 Super @ 250, in walkabout
shooting.
The AF is fun; can't say I like the TTL flash implementation - a
little cumbersome if you want to have exposure compensation for fill
flash, but other than that a nice, light, quality package.