stephen_doldric

<p>That was an awesome suggestion to try full auto (green mode). However that did not help it. It really seems like a communication / metering problem. Since the flash was only $110 (import) over a year ago I chose not to send it in for repair since I'm not even sure they would fix it and if they did I can't see it being less then $110. Instead, I opted to take it apart and see if I could clean up the springy internal part of the contacts. Since I've been around electronics for years I had no issue doing this (see my warning below about high voltage). I'll add a few details in here so that at a later date if someone wants to try the same there is some info. BTW - cutting to the chase, I was not able to fix it. As a matter of fact it won't even fire at all now, but it still charges up and the ready light comes on. As much as I love my SB400, I'm going to upgrade to a SB600 now. Can't justify the SB900 right now for the commander mode, but I'll at least get something that will work with the SB900 later on.<br /> <br /> <br /> Now for the details. <strong>WARNING</strong> : Don't try this unless you know what you are doing. There is a 800mfd capacitor fully charged with about 300volts sitting in this thing. So if you don't know what that means or how to deal with it, don't go any further. You can seriously shock yourself. It doesn't have a bleed resistor on it either, so it will stay fully charged for a very long time. I chose the brute force discharge method with a screwdriver across the leads along with safety glasses - it's that much arc and puts a puts a melted dimple in the screwdriver.<br /> <br /> <br /> The assembly of this flash is really complicated and tight. There are two screws holding it together in the bottom, and then it's pressure fit together. Two circuit boards (top and bottom - bottom is power, top appears to be logic, along with two flex circuits between the two. The battery compartment sits between the two circuit boards. The main capacitor sits right behind the flash head. Then just some flex circuits heading down to the shoe assembly.<br /> <br /> Dis-assembly is complicated in that if you don't know how to pry it apart (ie where the release clips are) you end up having to pry extra. That's what I did, and I'm still not sure what the factory method is to pry it apart. It really seems like the top housing is supposed to separate from the whole bottom section, leaving the circuit board and battery compartment, but there is actually a screw that I have yet to figure out how it's put together. I broke the small plastic tab for the screw, but seems optional (at least mechanically). So basically the guts come out leaving the bottom section and one of the flex circuits connectors disconnected in the process. So if that's not clear, the top section comes apart along with the circuit board assembly and battery compartment all on one, leaving the bottom section and some wires interconnecting and a dangling flex circuit cable. BTW reassembly is actually a lot easier once you get the top housing off.<br /> <br /> Once pried apart (wearing gloves so I wouldn't get shocked), I was able to work a screwdriver into the capacitor and discharge it. Followed by a second discharge (much smaller) several seconds later.<br /> <br /> All the parts still remain interconnected through various wires through the entire dis-assembly so each section of the housing is always connected to the others in some way. Now here is the most interesting part. The shoe assembly is a real PIA to disassemble and reassemble. It's part electric and part mechanical due to the lever. So avoid taking that apart if you can. If you choose to disassemble it it's going to be a pain to put back together. Also note there is little value taking it apart. I envisioned the contacts spring loaded and free floating needing cleaning internally. In reality the pins are bound/welded directly to springs, and the springs are soldered directly into a flexible circuit board that goes all the way to a circuit board. So each pin that touches the camera is very well electrically connected to the electronics in the flash. So as long as the pins are okay, there is very little failure possibilities. Very nice job Nikon!<br /> <br /> So in summation, there is very little that can be done inside the flash (as you would expect). If I had it to do all over again, I would never have taken apart the shoe assembly. The only real things you can do inside are: 1. Reseat the flex connector. 2. Examine for anything obvious like a loose wire. 3. Possibly if you had a couple of blow SB-400's you could shift around the circuit boards to make a working unit. 4. Look for any obvious fried parts (ie like the main capacitor or flash tube.<br /> <br /> Anyway, that's if for posterity. I was unsuccessful, but did get it back together mechanically, but made matters worse. So unless you are like me, I would not attempt to take apart an SB-400. That and I would be extremely hesitant to take it apart and put it on a camera body. In my case I have a D40 thats a few years old, so I was willing to accept that level of risk, but if my camera were newer and better it really isn't worth the risk to the camera body.</p>

<p>I wasn't sure if I should put this in with Nikon SLR's or under Speedlights, but chose Nikon SLR's since I think its more specific to Nikon. So sorry if I have it in the wrong spot. Also I found plenty of comparisons of the SB400 vs... But did not find anyone who has had this problem.<br>

I have a D40 and SB400. My SB-400 just started acting up. It produces a flash, but its too dim to light up the shot, even straight on. I did get a random shot where the SB400 was bright enough, but that was the exception. I tried it with the D40 flash in the exact same shot and it produces plenty of light. To me it sounds like the flash info from the camera to the flash is not getting there properly. My first try was to clean the contacts with an alcohol wipe and q-tip, but that made no difference. Has anyone else seen this? I don't have a second flash so I don't know if its the camera shoe or the flash. Thanks in advance.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I too have been considering the 120-400 sigma or the 150-500 sigma. They are both large and heavy from what I can tell, so keeping the 55-200 seems like sound advice for all those times you don't want to lug it around. Just to help me with my decision, why have you discounted the 150-500? I think its about $100 US differnce in price. Both are OS and HSM. And if you don't start using your 55-200 until 200 it seems perfect for you. Thanks...</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have both the 50/1.8 and the 35/1.8 AF-S on the D40. I find the 50 to take great photos as long as you are not trying to focus in a hurry. Strictly no action shots. The best method I found was to focus by eye, then look for the green dot. But it's a lot harder to focus manually then the old split screen viewfinders were. Also the 50mm is equivalent to a 75mm fx. So in reality the 50 it a little too long form my taste for general around the house or town use, but probably good for portraits. The 35mm is closer to an old style 50 on FX, and that coupled with the auto focus makes it my lens of choice over the two. Both are great values for the money, but lack of auto focus is a big handicap on a D40.</p>

 

<p>Thanks all for the responses... I think one of the big things I missing with the 18-200 is changing my aperture. I have noticed that I've been in the teens as well when I could open it up more. Also changing it around to higher values might help the softness that I sometimes see. My next purchase will probably be the D90. I hate to chase bodies around for features when I could put the money towards glass, but it may finally be time for me to graduate to a more advanced body. The pictures of the 24-70 looks like an amazing lens - still big an heavy, but there is always a price for something. slrgear.com has it as a 10.0 in optical quality. Oh and I also agree the 70-200 is probably to much for a family vacation.....</p>

<p>Great feedback! I should probably have tried to stop it down. For now I'm stuck where I'm at and will continue to use the 18-200. Sometimes its just learning to use the tools you have better. Agreed on only using the center point. I do that most of the time. Yeah I was thinking 24-70 might not be good for DX seeing 24 would not be wide enough. But good advice.</p>

 

<p>Thought I would give a little vacation shooting feedback that might hopefully help someone. I just came back from vacation with the family in Moab, UT (Arches) and Telluride, CO. Had a great time. I took with me my D40, two lenses (18-200VR & 35 f1.8) and a cannon powershot SD1100.<br>

I was not disappointed with the combination, however this is not the ultimate combination of equipment (but it's what I own). Here are the highlights:</p>

<ol>

<li>Focus points on the D40 is lacking since it only has three auto focus areas. I missed a few action shots that I really think I could have made had I had a better auto focus system. 6mp for family shooting is more then enough for me and I did not want for extra pixels. Though I rarely post process images so I crop with my lens. I see a D90 in my future. </li>

<li>The 18-200 is a little too soft for my liking on the long end (lets say 160-200mm). I really noticed it with the big wide open space.</li>

<li>The 18-200 even though it covers a large range in the end is just too heavy to carry everywhere. But I'm not sure how a different combination of lenses would get me around that. </li>

<li>I'm a bi*!h to zoom lenses. The 35mm f1.8 is nice, but if I had a better quality 17-55 f2.8 or a 24-70 f2.8 I think I could have just left a single lens on for most everything. The 18-200 just doesn't cut it for low light. I only used the 35mm on special occasions just because I was too locked into a single focal length (I know, sneaker zoom). </li>

<li>Having a simple point and shoot was worth it for those times you were out and about but didn't want to carry a camera with you. Small enough for a pocket, and the camera you have with you is always better then no camera at all even if it's low quality. Though the SD1100's build quality is not nearly as good as the older SD600 generation. </li>

</ol>

<p>So basically I'm searching for wide angle zoom that's f2.8 and a long zoom that I would want to carry around for special ocasions. I generally like to only carry a body and a single lense most of the time, leaveing the extas back at home base.<br>

I'm stuck in the place that I want everything for nothing (weight, rang and performance). I'm toying with the following combination to work towards long term. D90, 17-55 DX f2.8 or a 24-70 f2.8 and some sort of zoom. The zoom would be either the 70-200 f2.8 or the 70-300 (lower quality, but lighter and less to worry about). Cost is always an issue, so its just a target to point at. Anyway, thanks for reading and hope this helps someone with a decision somewhere.</p>

 

<p>I bought a D40 as my first DSLR about 1 1/2 years ago. I was on the fence with the D80 since the D90 was not out yet. My figuring was that I was new and until I had an actual need to upgrade it was perfect. I've put my extra money in the the 18-200 instead, which will be good several bodies from now. That said, the D40 has been fantastic and the pictures I get are so much better then my old p&s. But now I'm ready to upgrade because I want to use screw type lenses such as the 50/1.8, I want to control flashes and I want better low light.<br>

If you are strapped for cash, stick with the D60 until you figure out what you need. But if you are at all serious you will eventually outgrow the D60. I think it will take you a lot longer to outgrow the d90.</p>

 

<p>Just an update. Ritz.com just shipped mine and had them in stock as of this weekend. Looks like they are out of stock again, but I'm guessing B&H and Adoroma will also be getting batches in soon.</p>

 

<p>I have a D40 and 18-200VR. I spent my money on the lens and have never looked back. I'm sure there are tons of reason why it's not the best lens for a particular range, but if you look at it as a whole, it's great! In your case if you had one lens that you wanted to cover most everything (wide angle and zoom) this lens is it. It's really is worth the money. The only issue you might have is that compared to the stock 18-55 that comes with the D40, the 18-200 is heavy. But that's because it's built better and so much more lens. The other thing for you that you might also want to consider is that the D40 and 18-200 are not pro grade, so they don't have the same environmental protection that you will get out of pro grade. So fog, rain and dust could be an issue. But I don't shoot in the rain or rain forest, so it has not been a problem for myself. I have a waterproof bag to put it all in when not in use if I'm going to be in the nasty weather.<br>

That all said, I'm still looking to add in the new 35mm f1.8 so I have a low light lens.</p>

 

<p>Thanks all for the responses. Guess I'll just be patient and wait. I agree, not paying more then $200 for this puppy.</p>

 

<p>Not sure if this is the correct place, but it's the thread I follow most. I also did a search. So sorry if I'm rehashing what's been done.<br>

Has anyone received the new Nikon AFS-DX 35mm 1.8 recently? I've had an order in from Ritz.com for about 6 weeks. I know a batch went out in March and shipped to various retailers. But has Nikon been shipping to the retailers lately?<br>

I know B&H and Adoroma also have them listed as backorderd. -- Thanks.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Eric, good point. I forgot about the ability to be used remote later. The SB-400 can not be controlled by an SB-800 in the future.</p>

 

<p>I respectfully disagree on the topic of the SB-400. Its a fantastic addition and you can't beat it for the price. It has variable output, and most importantly you can swivel the head 90 degrees up for bounce (but not left to right). The bounce alone will take indoor flash photos from looking like they were made with flash to looking amazing. The two disadvantages are that it does have less output then the higher end models (but way more then the internal flash) and it can not act as a master to control other Nikon flashes. But even with the SB-600 you can't do that, you need at least an SB-800 to control other flashes.<br>

That all said I would not use it for professional work like weddings or news, but for casual photography it can't be beat. One other caution if you are going to push a lot of flashes through it all at once, like taking every kids picture in a school. This is not the flash for you. It's short term duty cycle is too low (ie the total numbers of flahses you can take before giving it a rest - this is due to internal heat). If you scoop the manual off Nikons website they list how many flash cycles and how long you need to wait. I think its at least 100. Even the higher end flashes have this problem, they just can take more before you have to let the electroncs cool down. But in practice, I have never even come close.</p>

<p> </p>

Sorry for the duplicate posts.... Each time I hit submit it said timeout at the gateway. Obviously it posted... Again sorry...

I know this is not Sigma, but I've had two different Tameron lenses in the past and had to return both of them because of image quality. I know I bought bottom of the line lenses in both cases, but when I went out and paid the extra money for Nikon glass, I never looked back. The difference was night and day. Just so much better.

 

I have the Nikon 18-200 and the lens is awesome! For the first month or so I kept thinking I should have bought a couple of lenses that covered the range, an 18-135 and a 70-300, but I have to tell you the 18-200 really covers a sweet spot in terms of range - at least for general use. If I were changing lenses I would have missed so many shots. Get the 18-200, then get other lenses later as you realize you have a specific need (ie Portrait, etc.). My guess is it will be hard to justify taking off the 18-200.

I know this is not Sigma, but I've had two different Tameron lenses in the past and had to return both of them because of image quality. I know I bought bottom of the line lenses in both cases, but when I went out and paid the extra money for Nikon glass, I never looked back. The difference was night and day. Just so much better.

 

I have the Nikon 18-200 and the lens is awesome! For the first month or so I kept thinking I should have bought a couple of lenses that covered the range, an 18-135 and a 70-300, but I have to tell you the 18-200 really covers a sweet spot in terms of range - at least for general use. If I were changing lenses I would have missed so many shots. Get the 18-200, then get other lenses later as you realize you have a specific need (ie Portrait, etc.). My guess is it will be hard to justify taking off the 18-200.

I know this is not Sigma, but I've had two different Tameron lenses in the past and had to return both of them because of image quality. I know I bought bottom of the line lenses in both cases, but when I went out and paid the extra money for Nikon glass, I never looked back. The difference was night and day. Just so much better.

 

I have the Nikon 18-200 and the lens is awesome! For the first month or so I kept thinking I should have bought a couple of lenses that covered the range, an 18-135 and a 70-300, but I have to tell you the 18-200 really covers a sweet spot in terms of range - at least for general use. If I were changing lenses I would have missed so many shots. Get the 18-200, then get other lenses later as you realize you have a specific need (ie Portrait, etc.). My guess is it will be hard to justify taking off the 18-200.

I found myself in the same situation with the 18-200VR. I was too excited to play with the lens to read the paperwork until a few months later when I noticed the box in the closet. I looked online to see if I could purchase the additional 4 years, and it's not an option because they say all these lenses come with 5 year warranties. I called Nikon and they told me that they just like to have it registered within 10 days, but its not a requirement. Then he told me just make sure I have it registered within the first year. Also they don't send you anything telling you they received it (according to the person I spoke with). So just keep the original receipt and I think you will be fine. Of course I haven't had a to claim service yet.

I've taken a few pictures of products and the biggest difference with my Nikon D40 was the addition of the SB-400 flash. Once I bounced the flash off the ceiling it made an incredible difference. You might be able to simulate this with a simple white piece of paper or card stock, angling it in front of the flash so the light doesn't hit the product directly. You could try this on your point and shoot and your D60. The exposure will more then likely be off, but it might give you an idea.

 

You may already have suitable lighting, in which case it won't make a difference, but if you are using your flash for any of these pictures, a bounced flash will make a big difference.