canonfduser

<p>Thanks for you opinions, I'm now watching eBay for one.</p>

<p>I've thinned my collection down from 7 FD bodis to 5 keeping a T90, F1N with regular and AE finder. Of the remaining bodies 2 A-1's (my favorite, recently cla'd) black AE-1 and a black AE-1P. I'd like to keep the one considered the best of the A series. IMO it's the A-1 but I could be wrong. Does the AE-1 and AE-1P other than being black bodies have features or better long term reliability that make them the best? I'm selling bodies and lenses with the intent of of owning just fast primes, 28-85, 35-105 and a couple of L series lenses such as the 20-35, 300 f4 or 80-200.</p>

<p>It's a great lens. I paid $125 for a bgn lens from KEH winter 09. It suffers from zoom creep but it's still very sharp and I prefer it to my 35-105 too.</p>

<p>I still take mine to the local camera store and have them develope the negatives only. It costs about $2.50 for a roll of 36 exposures and I scan the negatives with my CoolScan V and go back to the store for the few prints I want or need. For my E-6 film I take them to Wal-Mat and send it off for about $7.00 a roll and then scan and print a few.</p>

<p>Chase, watching your video I noticed that your camera has a lot of gooey foam and this may be causing the mirror to be stuck. The foam appears to be stuck to the mirror. I also noticed a lack of foam for the mirror dampener which should have a clean strip attached. Maybe someone could chime in with a fix but at the very least you need to remove and clean up the the old foam and refoam the camera once you get the mirror problem solved. I recently had my A-1 CLA'd because it develped the shutter squeak that A series bodies are famous for and it cost $85 and it was money well spent. My A-1 looks and functions as new and will last a long time because of the CLA. I too could have passed on getting it repaired and attempt a DIY project but I didn't have the confidence to perform the squeak repair and I'm glad I sent it off.</p>

<p>Your card is probably fine, the 151 is just an estimate, it'll may hold more because Nikon is conservative with their in camera estimates.</p>

<p>Since you have a D80 I'd go for the 85vr, it's an awesome lens offering everything the 105vr has for almost half the price. If you plan to go DX I'd go for the Sigma 105 and if need to go cheap get a Sigma 50.</p>

<p>I received my 2nd adapter from Jinfinance and this one works perfectly. I'm trying to figure out how to magnify the image while focusing. I've tried various custom functions but so far nothing has seems to work. What steps do I need to take? I have the G-1 set to no lens attached, using A mode and focusing with a nFD 50f1.8 and I want to zoom in to check focus. So far it's been hit or miss.</p>

<p>Alan, thanks for the information. You have admit it does look odd but I'm glad it's standard for this lens.</p>

<p>I'm looking at eBay auction #300390273375, it's a nFD 50-135f3.5 lens and if you look at the front element it has a phillips head screw below the front element? Does this screw belong there or has someone made a repair to the lens. </p>

<p>Louis, Mark, kelly and Stuart, received my A-1 yesterday and I kid you not, it looks and functions like a brand new camera. The viewfinder and focusing screen are super clean and best of all no squeak. Checked it against my T90 which was CLA'd last year and the meter is dead on. Tomorrow it' supposed to snow and I'm hoping to run a test roll throuh my baby. From my experience so far it's the best $85 I've spent on a repair and keeps my classic going for a long, long time. </p>

<p>Akira-san, thanks for the simple explanation. It seems that 1/30 is the default setting. I tried your suggestion for Manual mode and it works fine. To bad the AE modes don't work better with flash.</p>

 

<p>Nice picture Gary. Snow is in the forcast here in Tennessee and I'm hoping to get out with my FD gear. I may try my nFD 200/2.8 non IF lens. Is your lens the IF or non IF version?</p>

<p>After asking about doing a DIY shutter squeal job I decided I needed to have my A-1 professionally tuned up so I ended up sending the camera to JT Camera in KS and it cost $85 + return shipping so the CLA ended up being $97. The camera is on its way back via USPS. The overhaul included lubricating dry bearings and shutter mechanism, adjusting the meter, internal and external cleaning (it had a lot of dust aroung the prism), cleaning the focusing screen and replacing the light seals which is part of the CLA even though I just replaced them. The repair is warranted for 6 months. I'll run a quick roll through it as soon as I receive it to make sure it functions as it should. If it checks out and I'm happy with the work I'll be sending John Titterington (JT Camera) my AE-1 Program body next. </p>

<p>Dan, keep checking the various forums for a used body. I'm primarily a Nikon digital and Canon FD film shooter and I saw a Blue G-1 on the Nikonians.org "for sale" forum for a LN- G-1 including box and all included accessories for $350. It had everything except the lens and included 4 Sandisk 8gb Extreme III sd cards so I emailed the seller and sent a PayPal payment after viewing pics of the camera body. This is my second G-1 body, the first one dedicated to m4/3 lenses and family (wife and 9 and 11 year old boys) use and the second body is my digital with adapter Canon FD lens body. Good luck, if you keep looking you'll find one.</p>

<p>I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but I can't get my Lumix to sync faster than 1/30 when using the pop-up flash. Is there something in the menu to set it to faster sync speed that I'm missing?</p>

<p>Thanks everyone for the quick responses. I don't feel that I'm very mechanically inclined although my light seal jobs have turned out quite well for myself and for others. That's probably as far as I need to go. I found a seller on eBay that also repais Canon's, his eBay id is Titterington, located in Leawood, KS and he charges $85 for a complete overhaul not including return shipping and since the total is less than the maximum of $100 that I'm willing to pay I may also go that route. I also have a mint in the box AE-1P that hasn't seen much use but it's never been serviced so I may include that also. If you were to send it off who would you send it off to? My only Canon repair experience was a T90 overhaul by KEH but their online quote for the A-1 is $140.00.</p>

<p>My A-1 purchased from a forum member about 6 years ago has developed the A series squeak. It squeaks about every 6th frame, the first 5 go click and then it squeaks or squeals for one frame and clicks away for another 5 frames and squeaks again. I'm not sure wheter to send it off for the repair or attempt a DIY project. Other than the squeak everything seems okay and I just finished refoaming the body. If I can find a repair shop who would address the squeal only or give it a minor tune up if needed including the squeal fix I'm willing to go that route. I love this beautiful body but I don't want to put to much into it. I'm sure it'll last a long time with minor repair. From what I've read here and googling it seems there are two approaches to lubricating the flywheel, (1) from the front by removing 4 screws as per this procedure <a href="http://www.paradesquare.ca/canon_fd/a_series_chirp.htm">http://www.paradesquare.ca/canon_fd/a_series_chirp.htm</a> or (2) removing the bottom plate and inserting a syringe into the gears and putting a drop of oil on it. I've read about #2 but cannot find instructions or illustrations. Those of you who have done this repair can you give me a few tips or describe the methods you used? For those who had it repaired who did you use and how much did it cost? eBay has a seller listing a squeal repair kit, item # 220536257342 and I'm wondering if this is the way to go if I attempt to repair it myself? And lastly, is it safe to use the camera with the squeal? What are the long term effects of doing so?</p>

<p>Just an update with my adapter situation. RJ from JinFinance and I worked out an exchange. Since the adapter shipped from NH I had to convince him that I would ship it there and not Singapore as he requested. I think he has them in stock at the NH location and someone named Dave Durst handles his US sales and shpping. Besides, it would cost $11.50 to ship it to China and only $2.70 to NH and that includes delivery confirmation. The adapter was definitely defective. I could only stop it down to minimum aperture with my nFD50 macro lens, all others stopped somewhere between f5.6 - f11. It was a little different with every lens I tested. I tested the adapter with lenses between 24 - 400, all primes. Once the lens stops at f?? I could put my finger in the adapter an push the little lever to make is stop down further so I suspect the problem is with the lever that controls the aperture blades. If the next one works the same I'll pursue other options. While I had it I tried it with the 50 macro lens and it was a real treat to finally have a digital solution for all my FD and nFD lenses.</p>

<p>Received my m4/3 FD adapter today from JinFinance today. Funny thing is, I won the auction and the seller is listed as located in Shanghai and my adapter arrived all the way from Pembroke, NH. I live in Morristown, TN and I always thought Shanghai was in China not NH :-). A lttle deceptive imo since I won the auction 12/9, was told it shipped 12/11 and it was actually shipped 12/30. Can't complain though since I got it.<br>

I've got a few questions related to the adapter and I'm hoping for some help. (1) The tolerances don't seem to be to precise, my adapter when attached to my Panasonce G-1 has a little play in it, almost as if it needs to be shimmed. Is this normal? (2) The adapter will not stop down to minimum aperture on all lenses, is this normal? With a breech lock 50 f1.4 or nFD 50 f1.8 I can only stop down from wide open to f8. My nFD 50 f3.5 macro stops down all the way, from f3.5 to f32. Should the adapter stop all my lenses down completely or is it designed to stop at a certain f/stop? (3) Metering, focusing and taking the picture. Since I have no instructions other than what I've been reading, I attach the lens, open lens up to focus, set aperture to taking aperture and turn ring to set aperture, focus and take picture. Does this sound correct? I'll experiment more tomorrow and hopefully start posting pictures later in the week.</p>

 

<p>Akira, I didn't uncompress the files, that must be what I did wrong. I'll try to install the update later tomorrow, have a busy evening tonight. The rubber on my camera is fine but my friend keeps hers in her large purse and it probably started peeling from moving around in the bag. I'll try to avoid that. The peeling reminds me of the peeling rubber on my N90 and N90s bodies. The solution was to replace the peeling camera back which is something I hope my friend never has to do.</p>

<p>My bad, I forgot about it. Still haven't gotten around to getting one and now I want a used one because $$$ is tight and a clone would suffice if it worked properly.</p>

<p>While browsing eBay looking for a used MB-D10 I found several 3rd party copies and wondered if anyone used one? If they work it could save some $$$ if they're safe to use. I'd only be interested in picking one up from a US dealer.</p>

<p>22 days later and no adapter. I purchased mine from JinFinance based on Yahoo's FD forum and Photo.net recommendatios and hopefully it'll arrive any day now. </p>

<p>My friend came over yesterday with her Blue G1 to let me check out her Christmas present, a 45-200 lens which I must have. Her camera is a year older than my recent purchase and uses fw 1.4 and her lens uses 1.1 and I'd like to update the fw on my Red G1 and even though I've downloaded the new fw my camera just won't update. I've followed the procedures at the Panasonic site with no luck. Could use a few suggestion as to what I'm doing wrong. I've tried saving the update to several sd cards and I've transferred the update via the little cable that goes from the camera body to the pc to the sd card also. Although I can sucessfully transfer/copy the update to a sd card I can't get it to work when I put the card in the body to update.<br>

While I was playing with the Blue G1 I noticed the rubber peeling on the lower hinge of the swing out lcd and wondered if this was a common problem and whether or not Panasonic would fix this or is it something we don't need to worry about? This camera is out of warranty, I just want to make sure it doesn't happen to mine.</p>