sam_ng2

Hello everyone,

 

I have a Hasselblad PME meter, the original one I believe. The meter is responsive to light, and reading changing with light level, however does not change with the ISO or aperture dial.

 

Anyone familiar with this problem and any suggestion how I should tackle this? Thank you.

<p>Hi everyone<br>

<br />I have not used this lens for a while, but today when getting it out, I noticed it looks unusual.<br /><br />The position of the the cocking screw seems wrong. When the shutter open it is at this position:<br /><br /><a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5966748/shutteropen.jpg" target="_blank">https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5966748/shutteropen.jpg</a><br /><br />When I tripped the shutter, the screw is at this position:<br /><br /><a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5966748/shutterclosed.jpg" target="_blank">https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5966748/shutterclosed.jpg</a><br>

<br />The shutter still works, in the way that all the time is correct (1s, 1/2s etc..). However when I recock the shutter (using a screwdriver), it doesnt feel normal. the cocking screw doesnt "spring back" if I pull out half way like other lenses. It seems like a spring connecting to this cocking screw is broken. However it looks like it can still be mounted on the camera. I have not tried it on the camera yet, afraid it would jam. </p>

<p>Could anyone advise what step I should take now. Many thanks!</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I havent used my Contax T2 a while (less than a year), and today when I put a new battery in and turned it on, the film winding mechanism buzzed for about 2-3 seconds (without film) and film counter flashed "FF". Every time I pressed the shutter, it would make the same sound, shutter didn't fire. When it put a roll of film in, the same things happened. Film had been taken up. It seems that there's something wrong with film winding mechanism. I just wonder if anybody has experienced the same error and if there's anything I can do about it.<br>

Thank you, Sam</p>

<p>Sorry nevermind my question, this Copal shutter is just abit tighter than usual and i didnt want to push it, now i push it through and it changes the speed finally!</p>

 

<p>Hi everyone,</p>

<p>I just got hold of a Sinar Copal shutter for my P, however the shutter speed dial is locked at Bulb I can not change it, is there a lock for this or something wrong with this shutter then I will have to return :(, so many bad ebay buys these days ..</p>

<p>Thanks for your help.</p>

<p>looking the the pic of the open side panel, I think there are 4 screws that hold it together. Do I have to lift up all the leather to see them?<br>

I'm nervous doing this but the focusing mechanism look simple enough, I want to give it a try before sending it out for $150 repair service.</p>

<p>Anyone has hands on experience with this I would really appreciate some advice. Thanks</p>

<p>I'd love to know how to get that side panel off, yes I feel like there's something obstructing it, maybe could be as simple as a screw fallen out or something :(</p>

<p>so normally, how many full turn of the knob can you do on sl66? mine only allows exact ONE full turn. I dont know whether there is any lock that allows it to turn more? Or its simly damaged in some way :(</p>

<p>Its like this, the focusing scale on the knob when i set the knob to 80mm lens is "infinity to 0.85", and that complete one full circle of the knob, and it only allow me to rotate so much, i.e. at infinity the bellows is fully contracted and at 0.85 the bellow is about 2cm out and that its.<br>

It focus well in that range, but there's no indication on the camera that it can focus closer either.<br>

God, I just hope its not damaged :(</p>

<p>hi everyone,</p>

<p>I just got hold of a rollei sl66, i really like the operation of it.</p>

<p>However the bellows is only extended for about 2cm, it doesnt go further the the lens closest focusing distance (im using 80mm) its coupled to the lens somehow. I want it to be fully extended so i can try different large format/process lenses on it. Could you please advise me on this?</p>

<p>Thanks and regards</p>

 

<p>Thank you very much. I know the colour is off but thats actually what im after, im after that vintage/brown faded/earthy tone of this film.I will try NC160 but this film seems to be alot more saturated that NC dont you think</p>

<p>As you can see from the format its 35mm, i just dont know what it is :(</p>

<p>Thanks for your replies, I know it can somehow be replicated with digital but Im more interested in the film.</p>

<p>I love the tone of this film so much but I have tried to contact the owner but no replies so far :(</p>

<p>Anyone could help me guess what film is this? Im very grateful.</p>

<p>

<p>

<p>http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3478/3468405543_4f477ff442_o.png</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>its ISO 100, shutter speed 125, and i get around under f/1.8 less than 2m away from the lamp, standard wide angle reflector. Thank you</p>

<p>Thanks for clarifying that to me. Now I understand for flash, its 500J of energy per flash, HMI its 500J per second.<br>

But of course energy is not equivalent to brightness, because as you know HMI is much brighter than tungsten for the same energy value.</p>

<p>What I really want to ask is from your own experience with HMI open face light, is that level of brightness (as described in my original post) normal or is anything faulty with my HMI?</p>

<p>Many thanks</p>

<p>Hi Brooks thanks for your reply. I have seen the XXX documentary and seen that too. But what i notice is his color work is very different from his black and white "art" work, his color work he usually use large depth of field, quite even soft lighting when his black and white "art" work (<a href="http://www.greenfield-sanders.com/portraits/art">http://www.greenfield-sanders.com/portraits/art</a>) is usually very shallow depth of field, contrasty lighting. I'm just wondering how can he produce this contrasty lighting with an Octabank</p>

<p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.greenfield-sanders.com/files/images/Mapplethorpe,-Robert.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.greenfield-sanders.com/files/images/Mapplethorpe,-Robert.jpg</a><br>

<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.greenfield-sanders.com/files/images/Sanders,-Joop.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.greenfield-sanders.com/files/images/Sanders,-Joop.jpg</a><br>

<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.greenfield-sanders.com/files/images/Bourgeois,-Louise.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.greenfield-sanders.com/files/images/Bourgeois,-Louise.jpg</a></p>

<p>Thanks Brooks</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I dont think it works like that, 500W is the energy the strobe uses up per second, averagely, not per flash. Its more to do with efficiency, the ability to covert electrical energy to light. 2k tungsten light is much less powerful then 2k HMI because its not as efficient. 2k HMI is in turn much less powerful than 2k flash.<br>

<br />I have just learnt that HMI is about 1/4 as efficient as strobe, so 575W HMI is about as powerful as 150W flash.<br />Still, its very disappointingly dim :(</p>

<blockquote>

<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=489058">Brooks Short - Tampa, Florida</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Hero" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/hero.gif" alt="" title="Hero" /> <img title="Subscriber" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/sub7.gif" alt="" title="Subscriber" /> </a> , Nov 27, 2006; 11:05 a.m.<br /> The Timothy Greenfield-Sanders portraits in the link above (thanks Frank) certainly make the point that a large diffused light source, such as the Octobank can produce a VERY DRAMATIC lighting.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Hi Brooks ! I think the same too ! do you know how does it set up the Octabank to have such a dramatic effect?</p>

<p>Im thinking along the line, no outer diffuser, light to the side and quite far away?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I always love the black and white work of Timothy Greenfield Sanders</p>

<p>http://www.greenfield-sanders.com/portraits/art</p>

<p>From what I know he use mostly Polaroid and for lighting, always single light with the Octabank. What amazes me is how he can create such a dramatic lighting with deep black and matte highlight.</p>

<p>http://www.greenfield-sanders.com/files/images/Mapplethorpe,-Robert.jpg</p>

<p>http://www.greenfield-sanders.com/files/images/Sanders,-Joop.jpg</p>

<p>http://www.greenfield-sanders.com/files/images/Bourgeois,-Louise.jpg</p>

<p>I havent own one but from several times i tried, it always created a very diffused and wrapping light, which Im not really keen on.</p>

<p>Of course I understand the beauty of his portraits is about the interaction with subject as photographer but I just want to concentrate to talk about lighting here. I figure many of the quality is also from Polaroid film (i dont know but polaroid film is always instantly recognisable, there are some photos from him that are not polaroid and you can see that right away), but how Octabank can create such constrasty and dramatic light really intrigues me.</p>

<p>Can you please enlighten me on lighting set up or other techniques to create similar looks?</p>

<p>Thanks for your input.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have recently purchased Elinchrom HMI 575W Daylight. However I'm bitterly disappointed with the output. With a standard reflector, ISO 100 t=125, distance about 2m, I can hardly get f/1.8. I was sort of expecting it to be equally powerful to a 500Ws strobe, but obviously not. This can barely make it as a fill, never as a key light.</p>

<p>Is it really normal for HMI or is there any faulty with my unit? Do I have to buy 1.2K or 2K to have any chance of getting about f/8 with HMI?</p>

<p>Please let me know your experience with other open face HMI (profoto, broncolor etc)</p>

<p>Thanks for your input.</p>

Hello everyone,

 

I have recently bought a few lenses at a local auction house which I have very little knowledge about, hope

everyone can help out!

 

1. An ROJA Emil Busch Rapid Aplanat 250/8

2. A Emil Busch Portrait Aplanat 11in/6

3. A Goerz Berlin Doppel Anastigmat Series III 180/6.8

and some other less imporant magic lantern lenses

 

 

From little that I know, the first lens is a quite common lens from Emil Busch, equivalent to the Dallmeyer Rapid

Rectilinear, but I have very little information about the other Emil Busch, the Portrait Aplanat one. Is it just

simply a faster lens of identical construction or is there any significant different? Is this anywhere as

desirable as the Busch Perscheid? Do you have any hand-on experience with these Aplanat and what is your opinion

about them?

 

I have handled and seen a few Goerz Dagor barrel but the third lens, the early Dagor, is in a very different

barrel construction than things i've seen. Photo attached. It has a ring with focus scale and some sort of

helical focusing mechanism i suppose but I can not move it at all. There's also an aperture scale but its somehow

on a lens hood and when i move it the iris does not change at all. Could you please tell me how to operate this lens?

 

Many thanks and regards

 

Sam<div></div>

Put in another way, is early Heliar as valuable/good as later Heliar/Dynar? (im trying to compare both uncoated version)

Thanks Steve and everyone for careful reponses

Yes, I was refering to WWI. I understand after WWI Heliar design was dropped and replaced by Dynar design, what I'd like to ask is is the change significance and could i expect prewar Heliar has the same "look" as postwar Heliar/Dynar?