martin-s
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Posts posted by martin-s
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<p>I'm putting together little tutorials and I need screen grabs of the various menus and live view images as they appear on the camera's screen.<br>
What do I need to capture these from the camera's video out port?</p>
<p>I have various Nikon and Canon bodies at my disposal.</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>"The question is about: <em>why 30s is the longest shutter speed that is included in the <strong>User Selected Shutter Speeds</strong> and also the<strong>Automatic Functionality</strong> of the camera."</em></p>
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<p>That's your interpretation of it, but does it matter? The limitation is annoying either way.</p>
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<p>I can't see any reason for this limitation either. I regularly go beyond the 30 sec limit with my DSLRs with no ill effects. It doesn't matter that noise increases, if that's the only way to get the shot.<br>
On a side note my old Minox GTE takes <strong>automatic</strong> exposures of 5 mins and more in moonlight that mostly turn out fine.</p>
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<p>Thanks, Jos and Colin.<br>
I agree that 3 stops sounds like way too much. What really shocked me though is how the market for film has almost completely dried up. I would never have expected that to happen this quickly.</p>
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<p>I have been digital for more than 10 years but I was recently asked what slide film to use for low-light hand-held shooting.</p>
<p>Fuji states their <a href="http://www.fujifilm.com/products/professional_films/color_reversalfilms/provia_400x/#overview">Provia</a> is suited to push processing up to 1600 and even 3200 ISO. If anyone has any reral world experiences or samples or alternative suggestions to share, I'd be very grateful.</p>
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<p>It's actually very easy using either iTunes or Dropbox as outlined by Olli and Matt. The wireless option makes it even more convenient.<br>
There is also no need to cripple your image names when doing it this way.</p>
<p>Personally I prefer the iTunes way synchronizing a single folder of images. That way I can create new albums and reorder images on the iPad later using its native Photos app.</p>
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<p>I'd definitely go for the 24-70. This zoom will add valuable flexibility to your kit and the Canon one is a superb lens in all aspects.</p>
<p>Actually if you find yourself doing more landscapes I'd also consider adding a wide-angle zoom such as the 16-35mm or 17-40mm, perhaps trade the 14mm for it.</p>
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<p>Matt uses multiple graduted filters to create vignette effects. Check out his <a href="http://lightroomkillertips.com/?s=focal+point">Focal Points</a></p>
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<blockquote>
<p>"The 24-105mm f/4L IS also has a 77mm filter thread and is smaller than the 24-70 f/2.8."</p>
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<p>Yes, but it's considerably less compact than the new 24-70mm, which is what your thread was about.<br /><br>
</p>
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<p>"After all, if you shoot macro, use a macro lens."</p>
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<p>Not really an option if one doesn't want to acquire or carry a dedicated macro lens. If you're travelling with a compact camera kit it's always hard to fit in an extra lens, and that is where the new 24-70 can come in very handy.</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>"I seem to remember lots of comments deploring the fact that the then new 24-70 f/2.8 II didn't have IS. So what is the point? - those who desire a 24-70 with IS now have what they wanted - may be Canon was listening after all."</p>
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<p>Exactly.<br>
Its small size, close-up capability and the use of the much more common 77mm filter size make this a very useful, compact multi-purpose lens. Given its price I have no doubt that the optical quality will be equally high as in other recently introduced zooms.</p>
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<p>Thanks Thom, I really like yours too.</p>
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<p>Lightroom was designed from ground up as a professional <strong>RAW</strong> workflow application. While you can organise and edit other image formats with it, that's not its primary focus.</p>
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<p>Mark,<br>
just keep in mind that this will automatically correct vignetting <strong>and</strong> distortion <strong>for all lenses</strong>. That might not always be what you want.</p>
<p>I actually use 3 different presets instead that correct a) only distortion, b) only vignetting and c) distortion & vignetting. This is almost as quick as incorporating it into the default and you control when to apply what.</p>
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<p>Yes, it vignettes noticeably when used wide open; <a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/reviews/ef-70-300-f4-5-6l-is-review/">others have found that too.</a><br>
I usually add vignetting to a lot of my images, so it's not an issue unless 'm going to create a panorama from multiple images and I want to make sure they blend well.</p>
<p>If it bothers you too much you can enable the lens profile correction in LR and make that part of your new default by pressing Alt + Set default… in the develop module. That way you won't ever see it again.</p>
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<p>Most likely they have been scanned and saved in sRGB as that is the most compatible. Then there would be no point in converting them to a wider colour space.</p>
<p>You could try assigning different profiles in PS and see which one looks most natural. I suspect that will be sRGB though.</p>
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<p>(Sorry, forgot image ;)</p>
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Capture what's displayed on DSLR screen
in Education & Resource
Posted
Just for posterity… it turned out the best solution in my case was the Blackmagic Design UltraStudio Mini Recorder:
HDMI in and output through Thunderbolt. Allows for perfectly clean, undistorted image & video capture.