russell_bastock

Its a JIS - I just couldn't remember the term for it - so I was looking to just buy one JIS driver for that screw rather than the whole kit.

Thanks, I'll give them a try

I've had a screw come loose on my 5D MkIV. The black screw is on the front of the body between the lens bayonet and the prism. Does anyone know the exact size of the screwdriver for this? Its not a phillips driver and I don't want to purchase a kit of drivers.

You can only use full second intervals in the time lapse mode, not fractions, so its 1/4 sec exposures at intervals of 1sec +. I've since found that it is a Movie mode and restricted by that (as is Live View I'm guessing). "If the shutter speed is 1/30 sec. or slower, the exposure of the movie may not be displayed properly" which is a bit cryptic as it suggests exposure will work but the setting will not display in the LCD, or then, it might mean exposure will revert to 1/25 as I am discovering.

I'm experimenting with time lapse using the inbuilt intervalometer on my 5D MkIV but some odd things happen. I gather it won't do auto exposure changes during the shoot, so I've switched to manual. I do a test shot before turning on the intervalometer, which shoots via Live View, but quite a few times the settings have changed when I switch over and I've no idea why. I end up with poorly exposed images because of it. I also did a two hour moonlight shoot on about 1/4 second but found out that it quietly reverts to 1/25th sec, which I guess is the movie frame rate. Are there any issues with manual mode changing settings, or when you switch to Live View? I'm surprised you can only shoot at 1/25th on Live View as how do you do star tracking shots. Any ideas what's going on?

I've got an old 2011 iMac running Sierra that is stalling a lot, I'm guessing its just the OS and some sort of bus issue, I use Lightroom, Photoshop and DaVinci Resolve, but in the past I've tended to double the base RAM the computer comes with as you need it over time. So I was just wondering if there was an issue with 16GB I need to be aware of.

What have people found with a laptop running 16GB RAM - is that enough or is 32GB needed?

I travel a few times a year and need to edit images on the go, but my current laptop has a faulty motherboard. Its interesting about the ports - I forgot about that. I might look into screens as well to use as a laptop-screen alternative to a new iMac.

I don't know if this is the place to post this but its seems a good fit. I'm in the dilemma of needing to replace both my iMac and MacBook due to their age, but I can only replace one due to funds constraint. I use Lightroom, Photoshop and DaVinci Resolve video software. My current iMac has 16GB of RAM, but I'm thinking maybe 32GB is the starting point now. What are people's experiences in this space? The MacBook might seem the go but there is the small screen issue compared to the 24" iMac.

I've installed EOS Utility 3 on my Mac, run the computer wifi pairing option on my 5D MkIV, I've selected the camera SSID on my MacBook Air wi-fi menu and entered the Encryption Key from the camera pairing screen and the pairing screen appears on the camera, but when I start the EOS Utility there are no wi-fi options showing and the menus (download/remote etc) are not highlighted or selectable. There doesn't seem to be a Pairing over wifi/LAN button or wizard I've seen in instructions. I'm still connected to the Camera in the wi-fi menu and restarting the utility doesn't change anything. Any ideas?

Thanks wmweikel, I was reviewing the user manual last night and noted there was an option to flick the Multi-Controller straight down that takes the focus point/array back to the centre, so I gather that's what you're talking about. Its these tips I need to know about. There's so much to learn you temporarily become lost in the forest of options.

Thanks Jochen. I rarely get details on print needs back from clients (even magazine publishers!) and these guys run an annual event so it may be 10 months before they look at printing needs. I like your idea of consistent look. I'm trying to develop my own style to up the value of my work. What I'll likely do is a social media batch that I reduce and sharpen myself, give a broadly hi-res set and they can contact me again if they need it even bigger, so posters or the like.

I'm being paid to shoot promotional images of an event where I'll hand over the images for publication online and in print. So the images could end up in magazines and fliers, as well as social media. What size should I produce the images at (in pixels and DPI) for this varied publication market, and should I create two or more duplicate sets at different resolutions online set and a print set to deliver? I'm using Lightroom for the workflow.

I think its universal that you can photograph anyone in a public space, in western countries at least. Personality Rights varies from country to country and are not universal. The issue is as stated above, seeking commercial gain from someone's image (aka brand), not merely taking their photo. Most major venues won't allow audience members to take a medium to long lens to a concert, so they can't zoom in on individual band members etc.

Thanks Jochan for the detailed reply and I agree with your sentiments. I spent 30 years with a Canon F1 film camera and manual focus lenses. I really miss the simplicity of checking the shutter speed, ISO and aperture dials between shots. They were simply obvious and easy to see at a glance and it was easy to flip up the camera up between shots to eyball the settings. The number of options on the MkIV is amazing, and I wouldn't want anything less as my work is so demanding and diverse, but its also confounding when starting out (even after using a MkII for years - which I now want to toss in a bin every time I try to use it as it is so limited). I realise its a muscle memory thing but its not sticking. I even have a temporary label on the thumb depression area to remind me to check the focus, but even then, shooting events with multilple things at once on-the-fly I overlook it 30% of the time. Moving the focus spots around is fine if you have a few secs to pause, as the buttons need to be nudged into position, but when subjects need to move on then that's an extra time burden. It would be great to have a touch screen to move your finger over to move the focus points rapidly. On the plus side I'm creating some flash cards to remind me of different things to be set, so I can quickly remind myself of the criteria needed for different shots and pre-load my memory so to speak. And when that's down pat, I'll set them to C functions.

I recently purchased a Mk IV and find the default AF Point Selection (the [ ] button on the back, to the right of the * button) that you press to have the AF Point matrix light up in the viewfinder, is difficult to press and only lights up for a few seconds. You really have to stretch your thumb to find it and it just slows things down during rapid shooting sequences. What I am finding is that I forget that I have changed or moved the focus points and shoot many frames on the wrong focus setting. It seems impossible to set the function to another button and I'd like to know how others manage this issue. If it doesn't glow when you press the shutter button halfway, then its not reminding you how its set. As I said above, the button its assigned to show it in the viewfinder is just awkward. Sometimes I wonder if I shouldn't just return to manual focus for anything other than dead centre focus points. How do others deal with this? How do you keep track/remember, especially if you are not an everyday pro shooter where it is welded into your memory?

Thanks. I've done exactly that but for some reason its not working for either button. Settings double-checked, depressed shutter half way. No idea why its not working. Might have to call Canon.

I recently purchased a Mk IV and find the default AF Point Selection (the [ ] button on the back, to the right of the * button) that you press to have the AF Point matrix light up in the viewfinder, is difficult to press and only lights up for a few seconds. You really have to stretch your thumb to find it and it just slows things down during action shots. I've tried assigning it to say the Quick Control dial's SET button, or the Multi Controller (the toggle knob) but none of these actually switch on the AF Point lights in the viewfinder. I don't know that you can assign it to any other button, which is restrictive So am I missing something or is there just not an option to have another button illuminate the focus points in the viewfinder? Also, can you extend the time the points stay illuminated?

I went with the 5D Mark IV, I'm happy with it. The autofocus in the body is far superior to the Mk II, snappy and more accurate, and the dial locking sliders are great, no need for gaffa tape workarounds.

Thanks for that. I've had a quick look at some comparisons and I realise the R is an amateur model. SD card and half the functions are missing or hidden, so I'll stick the the DSLR config. It'd be fun to play with I'm sure, but not my spec.

I currently have an EOS 5D mk II, but it has obvious limitations and want to upgrade. I specialise in available light night photography and use mostly an EF 70-200mm 2.8 L IS USM lens. The issue with the current setup is that the camera/lens has trouble focusing in low light with moving subjects, such as street parades, often confused by a bright part of the subject and focusing on that instead of say someone's eyes. Its also too slow to track subjects or snap to focus in low light, so someone almost walks past without hitting focus. I've been shooting for years, so its not my technique that's lacking. Due to budget limitations I can't upgrade that lens, so I'm wondering what improvements there are in body-based low light focus mechanics. Another issue with the mk II is the dials can't be locked, so I'm forever bumping settings. And I also want to start shooting continuous 1080 video, which the Mk II cuts out at about 12 mins. I was initially thinking of swapping to a EOS R due to its low light capabilities but I've read the dials/options are a mess, so I don't want to go back there. I can't afford a 1D but how much does a 5D Mk IV fit my needs or are there other close models I should investigate? Any comments on the above appreciated.

<p>I just found the frame number reference in the manual. On the Review (Playback) screen, it is in the format of 4/234 where 4 is the current image and 234 is the total number of shots taken so far, so the total shots left will not display here - only on the LCD screen on top of the body.</p>

<p>It's a 'feature' of Magic Lantern I've just discovered. ML has stuff all over the place. This solution I found in another forum:<br> In Magic Lantern under 'prefs' under 'image review settings'. Turn off 'quick zoom'</p> <table> <tbody> <tr> <td > </td> <td > </td> </tr> </tbody> </table>

<p>I'm trying to find out how to change a few settings:<br> When I review photos I've taken, there's a frame number in the lower left which looks like 123/123, which is pretty useless as I want know how many shots I have left, like 123/456 (the second numbers being how many shots left on the card). Is there somewhere I can change this to what I want?<br> Also in review mode, when I zoom in to check focus it zooms to maximum magnification on the first click. I've just installed Magic Lantern so I don't know if this is the result of ML or the default. Where do I change the zoom magnification in review mode?<br> Thanks</p> <p> </p>

<p>This is excellent feedback. I'm using Canon 5D Mk II and 580EX flash. I'll be more specific in future posts, but this is helping sorting out the nuances of flash photography in auto modes and that there are differences between the models in behavior. I've read the photonotes article and its very detailed.<br> <br />I'm moving from film to digital, all manual (Canon New F1 with Metz 45cti) to auto functions and finding my way through experimenting. Its a steep learning curve, but I'm finally getting a solid idea of what's what.</p>