david_smigelskis

<p>Thank you. All is now fine.</p>

<p>I do not know which screw is for vertical adjustment of the rf. Horizontal is obvious and turns easily. But all the other screws are quite tight and I do not wish to mess with what is already doing its job properly.</p>

<p><img src="/bboard/dovydas.com/KOTOP%203a.jpg" alt="" /></p><div></div>

<p>Lou said "Costco, on Clybourn, is north of the river and simply too far to go."<br>

<br />The lady who runs that department said Costco still does one hour processing but will continue to do so only as long as the machine continues to work. Once it stops, no replacement or repair.<br>

<br />Costco policy and my awareness of the coming shutdown by Walgreen was why I asked when we spoke a few weeks ago where you did your quick turn around processing and was why I went back to doing my own B&W processing. You can develop your remaining C41 film using normal B&W process but with no color output. It works. Also you can use ICE when you scan the C41 films.</p>

 

<p>Dan: "The evidence against you is shots after the first shot post-opening."</p>

<p>You say you have a Perkeo II. Once the vacuum effect starts, extra film is pulled out from the 2 rolls and sags forward. Winding the film to the next frame is by the feel of "auto" rollers. Those rollers stop when a certain amount of film has passed. Thus the "extra" amount of film and thus the sag is always present. This is different from using red windows on each frame.<br>

Try it with a new roll of film and open the bellows gently and see what happens.</p>

<p>For Dan:<br /> <br />Could the problem be the vacuum effect of opening the bellows? If the bellows are allowed to spring open, and especially if the spring is strong, the film can be sucked into the film gate giving a very soft focus image no matter the aperture. In my experience with almost all folders, opening the front slowly by having a hand on the base avoids this and normally gives very good results edge to edge, even at wide apertures. This problem could be one reason some avoid all folders. One camera that was built to avoid this was the late 30s Weltur that by design was built to open very slowly throughout its opening arc. Others start to open slowly but then after a certain point has been reached pop the rest of the way.</p>

<p>Have you thought of using a Voigtlander Kontur for 6x6 finder in the shoe to overcome the problems of composition? For many years it has worked wonders for me and a Perkeo II. I now wear glasses but with no problems with the Kontur. It allows for 1:1 view and allows one to see what is potentially to enter the space of the finder.<br /> I also use the 24x36 Kontur with a Vitessa 125 Ultron and the optional shoe with similar consequences. Perhaps the Kontur is an obscure entity. A few years ago Lou Meluso, who is very knowledgeable about older equipment, was not aware of it until I spoke to him about it.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I too have and sometimes still use my 532-16. But Zeiss is not the only source of compact and sturdy fish in the sea.<br>

<br /> What about the very compact Pearl II 6x45 folder from Konica with very nice rf/vf geared to a <em>unit focusing</em> Hexar?<br>

<br /> Speaking of unit focusing and very sturdy, what about the Weltur - much smaller than a 532-16 - with a nice rf/vf and unit focusing 2.8 Tessar or Xenar (the latter a curiosity since it is a five element - four group lens) that with a built-in sliding mask in the VF and a now hard to find 6x45 film mask gives a SI more than a run for the money? I have two, one with each lens. They are particularly nice with B&W film since the uncoated lenses with hood allow for a very wide range of tonality.<br>

<br /> I now wear glasses and use all of these without any problem.</p>

<p>I thank you, Mark, for an appreciative response. I have and am keeping my 5n. Someone asked me as a basis for a future purchase if the 6 was as good as the 5n with WA RF lenses. I would think that the placement and angles of microlenses were the same for both though the addition of phase detection pixels could by itself make a difference and/or might have involved some change of the microlenses placement and angles.<br>

<br />What were meant to be "serious" reviews of the 6 were rather succinct since most of its features were in the 5n or 7 and forum chatter as far as I can tell simply never brought this potential problem up though there was much talk earlier of the new and better features of the 5n wrt WA RF lenses.</p>

 

<p>Anyone used both the Nex-5n and the Nex-6 with wide angle rangefinder lenses? Is there a difference in image quality between the two cameras when used with these lenses. Put another way, do the built in phase detection pixels of the Nex-6 make any difference in IQ compared with the 5n when used with these lenses?<br /><br />I have used a 5, 5n and 7. The 5n sensor was a major advance over that of the Nex-5 and was also much superior over the higher resolution Nex-7 sensor when used with wide angle rangefinder lenses with short flange to sensor distances. Most agree that the 5n is best among these 3 with these lenses because of the use of special microlenses in the sensor. Do the phase detection pixels of the Nex-6 sensor change those in a visible way?</p>

<p>Thank you Paul. Yes, that was the question I was asking. <br /><br />Problem solved.<br /><br />Such interlocks vary from camera maker to camera maker. Usually it is fairly obvious. For example, on the Nikon N90S it is largish and near the film aperture opening. All the others I have found were large enough that they required a toothpick to firmly hold it "open." Your suggestion indeed helped. I had gone over all parts in the rear including the light seal channels. But I had used on this Pentax a toothpick as I had with all others but with no joy. Since you directed me to the spot I kept trying with smaller objects. I was able to find it with a relatively small hatpin and keep it open. Problem solved.<br /><br />I apologize to the moderator for cross posting. Some sites encourage it on tech questions. I misremembered the policy here. Will not happen again.<br>

However, since most of the responses were to this forum while Paul's was to the other, I quote his reply here to finish off the discussion in each forum.<br /><br />"Paul Noble , Dec 11, 2011; 11:21 p.m.<br />Everyone is missing the point of his question. He is not asking how to measure shutter speeds; he is asking how to defeat the rear door interlock that prevents the shutter from firing when the back is open.<br />I don't have a ZX-5n, so I can't answer the question for sure. I do have a ZX-60, which also has an interlock. On this camera, there is a small tab on the door that fits into a slot in the light seal channel and trips a switch or something. As Dave suggests, a toothpick or small screwdriver in this slot will allow the shutter to operate with the back open.<br />Dave, I can only suggest that you look more closely. There has got to be some mechanism that tells the camera that the door is closed. As I said, in my ZX-60, this is a small tab on the door, near the latch. The slot it fits into is located in the light seal channel. It can be difficult to see, especially in bad light. Of course, everything is painted flat black to prevent reflections, which makes it ever more difficult.<br />Paul"</p>

<p>Thank you Paul. Yes, that was the question I was asking. <br /><br />Problem solved.<br /><br />Such interlocks vary from camera maker to camera maker. Usually it is fairly obvious. For example, on the Nikon N90S it is largish and near the film aperture opening. All the others I have found were large enough that they required a toothpick to firmly hold it "open." Your suggestion indeed helped. I had gone over all parts in the rear including the light seal channels. But I had used on this Pentax a toothpick as I had with all others but with no joy. Since you directed me to the spot I kept trying with smaller objects. I was able to find it with a relatively small hatpin and keep it open. Problem solved.<br /><br />I apologize to the moderator for cross posting. Some sites encourage it on tech questions. I misremembered the policy here. Will not happen again.</p>

<p>The ZN-5n is, as many said in another thread, a very underappreciated camera and thus inexpensive. Question. I wish to check its shutter speeds and have the proper equipment to do so. However, this camera, like some others, will not fire if the backdoor is open. On others cameras of which this is true there is a slot in the rear of the camera insides into which one can put a toothpick and the camera then acts as though the door is closed. I am unable to find anything like that on this camera. So how then is it done?<br /> Thanks in advance</p>

<p>The ZN-5n is, as many said in another thread, a very underappreciated camera and thus inexpensive. Question. I wish to check its shutter speeds and have the proper equipment to do so. However, this camera, like some others, will not fire if the backdoor is open. On others cameras of which this is true there is a slot in the rear of the camera insides into which one can put a toothpick and the camera then acts as though the door is closed. I am unable to find anything like that on this camera. So how then is it done?<br>

Thanks in advance</p>

<p>Problem solved. Thank you</p>

<p>I have been using a film plane shutter speed tester since the mid-70s. I was recently given a Nikon N90. It seems that it is not possible to fire the shutter when the camera back is open. I appreciate that this is meant to be a safety feature but I can not consequently use my tester in the ordinary way. This is not true of the N70, the other Nikon I received. But there must be a "trick" that allows repair people to test the N90 shutter speeds. Does anyone know what it is that would allow me to fire the N90 shutter with the back open?</p>

<p>Robin Sibson:</p>

<p>Thank you very much for your comprehensive answer. It helps greatly to know the possible variables and that ultimately the answer is basically try each adapter with each camera and then PERHAPS fiddle with certain settings on the camera (such as the switch at 10AM inside the lens mount) or on the adapter.</p>

<p>

<p>I use a Canon 5D with many different kinds of non Canon manual focus lens mounts. Metering is not a serious problem since I use an EE-S screen that aids greatly in obtaining correct exposure. I use both manual and aperture priority modes without problems. All of my adapters are AF confirm ones that work well with the 5D.<br>

I have film cameras with the different lens mounts for the lenses I have and use them fairly regularly. My bright idea was to reduce the number of these by using some EOS film cameras with the AF confirm adapters I already have. I read up as much as I could easily find about potential problems with metering with EOS film cameras. I shunned those that seem to cause problems.<br>

I picked up for $10 a perfectly functioning Rebel XS (500). All worked fine in all relevant ways. In particular the metering in all of the modes was spot on and linear.<br>

I next found for $15 a perfectly functioning Elan II (50). Metering was possible and proper in all the modes and was linear. HOWEVER if I tried to take pictures or just clicked the shutter in manual or aperture priority even with just the adapter on the body the mirror would hang up in these two modes. Somehow all the adapters I have cause this hangup. It is not lens related. All worked as it should in Program and Shutter Priority.<br>

Is this a recognized problem with Elan II cams and if so is there a fix that would allow full operation in manual and aperture priority?<br>

Given what I read online I stayed away from A2 (5) and Elan 7 (30) cams because of the claim that metering with non Canon manual lenses on these cams is a serious mess for which there is no real straightforward cure. If I am wrong about this it would be nice to know since I would much rather use an A2. It has a much better build and some nicer features than the two EOS film cameras I have tried.<br>

More generally is there a FAQ or website that has a rather full discussion of the use and possible problems and any work arounds of non Canon manual lenses with the many different EOS film bodies?<br>

Thanks in advance from someone who appreciates both digital and film.</p>

 

</p>

Reading the manuals for the K100D and K10D, it seems that M42 mount and ordinary

K mount lenses are not usable on these cameras. If I remember correctly, when

Pentax first introduced its dSLRs one major marketing emphasis was on the

possible use, with some loss of "features", of the M42 and basic K mount lenses.

 

With what Pentax cameras did an orphaning of these lenses happen?

 

If they did not happen, but are simply not mentioned in the manuals, what are

the limitations of use on the K10D and K100D and newer Pentax cameras?

 

Finally I still have some very good Adaptall 2 mount lenses that work fine on

all Pentaxs and other cameras of the pre DSLR era. Are Tamron mounts available

that will make these lenses partially usable and/or as completely usable as

other DLR lenses on present day DSLRS of whatever brand?