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mrraz

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Posts posted by mrraz

  1. <p>Simon, whether crumpling, moisture application or other unintended detrimental change to any print, the print was printed and will exist for some finite period of time in one state or the other depending on how careful I continue to be. With some luck I will sell a few along the way. As a New York cab driver told me way back in the Summer of '65, "when you step off the curb, you're in play." Color me jaywalking.</p>

    <p> </p>

  2. <p>When you are in Chicago, I really don't think you're going to have any problems. I was born and raised in and around Chicago. I still spend a fair amount of time on the street in areas some might consider questionable. I've never had problems on the street anywhere. That is not to say the use of a modicrum of common sense isn't required. Practice good situational awareness, and you'll be fine.</p>

    <p>All that being said. Cameras are so ubiquitous in Chicago as to be standard issue for most everyone in the city. Enjoy yourself because street theatre in Chicago is great.</p>

  3. <p>Clive, I've been on a couple photo sites where I posted my work before arriving at Pnet. One I left for lack of feeling far too confined by the community rules. I left the other after crossing verbal swords with the wicked witch of the west(admin). The revelation didn't take anywhere near 2 years. It was more like 2 actual weeks of a thought here, a feeling there. I almost woke up one morning knowing, "this works."</p>

    <p>I figured out the rating system Pnet uses was virtually useless and stopped giving or receiving ratings rather quickly. I continued to critique images, but as time went by there were fewer images that peeked my interest. Finally, there was nothing of interest.</p>

    <p>No, I will not be posting any further images in the future, abstract or otherwise.</p>

    <p>I made the decision to announce this after realizing how good I felt about the photographic direction I had decided to take. I merely wanted to present my revelation as a possibility for others.</p>

    <p>Best regards</p>

  4. <p>Clive, only images with comments remain. That's out of respect for those that took time comment. All other images have been removed.</p>

    <p>John O, Someone else might scan one of my prints having purchased it, but it will not be me.</p>

    <p>Philip, I don't even know if I understand what happened, but "process" does not feel like it was involved in this personal insight.</p>

  5. <p>I've come to a surprising realization over the last week or two. I no longer have the emotional requirement to justify my work on the internet. From this point forward I will present my work only in a print form factor. I will also only produce a single print from each from each image before destroying the image file. It's an amazingly liberating experience.</p>
  6. <p>If you're asking the question, the answer is always, "take it all." Otherwise, you'll just kick yourself because you missed something. You don't have to carry all of it all everywhere, but it gives you options on a daily basis.</p>

    <p>It's always worked for me. This is my standard travel kit.<br>

    2 Olympus camera bodies, e-500/e-510<br>

    14-45mm zoom<br>

    35mm Macro w/52mm CP<br>

    70-300mm zoom<br>

    4 spare batteries and charger<br>

    58mm Closeup Filter kit<br>

    58mm CP<br>

    58mm R72<br>

    58mm 2 stop ND<br>

    Cable release<br>

    Hot shoe flash w/diffuser<br>

    72in. Davis and Sanford tripod</p>

    <p>It all goes into a 30 year old shoulder camera bag.</p>

     

  7. <p>It's just a suggestion from someone who does this with some regularity. Don't scan at the highest resolution. It tends to bring out flaws that are not readily noticeable to naked eye. I've found about 300dpi gives the best results.</p>

    <p>Another option is to scan one at 600 and the same one at 240. You can then merge them in PS. It will create an average that give you the detail but soften the hard edges. One of the first things to do is convert to grey scale. If you want to keep the antique look, you can always lay a sepia layer over the finished B&W.</p>

    <p>You will need to work at very high magnification when you clone out marks and scratches, so they don't look obvious. The clone patch tool is another favorite of mine.</p>

    <p>You might consider posting some before and afters you've had problems printing.</p>

  8. <p>Jennifer, You have to start somewhere. Talk about what you like or dislike about an image. You don't have to offer suggestions at first if you ask what motivated the photographer to do something in a particular way. Try modifying a copy in PS. If you come up with what you feel might be an improvement, offer the change. Every once in a awhile you get an "whoa, I never thought of that."</p>
  9. <p>Jen, I tried not to pull your leg to hard. That's a line used by tour guides in St Augustine, FL.</p>

    <p>An old commercial studio trick I've used is to take a couple of layers of frosted acetate on the back of the transparent sections of glass to control the amount of backlight. You can tape them down along the frame edge. If you cut them to the correct size, the leading will hide the edges. I know it takes time to do this, but I think you'll find the results satisfactory.</p>

    <p> </p>

  10. <p>On the street, a public place, there is no expectation of personal privacy, so a photographer needs no permission to shoot and post on the web. It's just tough stuff for those that object to having their picture taken. However, one has to be very comfortable with confrontation to proceed in this manner. So know, there will occasionally be someone in your face. </p>

    <p>I never interact verbally with anyone unless they approach me, then I get the chance to be a little obstreperous.</p>

  11. <p>To add to what Charles said, make sure the white card behind the glass is positioned at a 45 degree angle to the glass. It makes it much easier to get the light even.</p>

    <p>Rather than using a kicker from the top, I suggest using a light from each side with white cards on the top and bottom for the leading. You'll get a lot of blacks otherwise. Remember to use a polarizer.</p>

  12. <p>HS, It sounds like your shutter has gone out of calibration. Rather then trying to understand the technical issues, you really need to get the camera serviced and cleaned by a qualified repair person. Unless you have the correct equipment you'll only add to the problem. I'd recommend International in Chicago. You can find them on the web.</p>

    <p> </p>

  13. <p>While in high school I moved an 85 year old woman from a 15 room 3 story house to a 4 room apartment during the summer between my junior and senior years. I was told to get rid of everything in the attic. This included uncounted boxes of cellulose nitrate negatives taken along the Maine coast between 1890 and 1910. I burned all of them because that's what Mrs. Staley wanted.</p>

    <p>That was the last time I knowingly got rid of any negatives. I now understand their value. All negatives have value even if we're not perceptive enough to understand them at a given point in time.</p>

  14. <p>I don't know how many of you have ever fired a weapon in combat or been under fire from someone trying to kill you, but there's no glory or romance involved. It is simply kill or be killed in order to survive. It is wise for those who formulate opinions based on what is seen in a picture to remember that.</p>

    <p>Combat veterans know what the rest of you can only fantasize about. My Vietnam images show the reality of what I and others experienced there. No romance or glory, just the certain knowledge that one's life is finite.</p>

    <p> </p>

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