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spritestress

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Posts posted by spritestress

  1. I really enjoy and rely on Lightroom, largely for two purposes, organizing photos, of which I now have almost two terabytes worth, and for initial RAW processing.

     

    I also have CS3 Master Collection, from which PS CS3 extended is the gold standard for image editing. Anything that requires me to perform pixel squishing gets done in PS CS3. At a fundamental level, there is no comparison between processing in 8bit and 16bit. For 16bit pixel editing, I don't imagine anything compares with PS CS3.

     

    I also have Capture NX. I sometimes use it to see how Nikon's RAW processor interprets an important file before I settle on the adjustments I have made using Lightroom. The Capture NX user-interface is pure trash though, IMO. Capture NX also crashes regularly, requires turning off "data execution protection", requires .NET infrastructure support, and other kludges. I may get a copy of Capture NX 2.0 at some pointt, but primarily just to have verified once and for all that I much prefer Lightroom.

     

    I much prefer Lightroom over other RAW file processors. Lightroom has become the cornerstone of my workflow. I highly recommend it to everyone from beginners to people trying to make a living from photography.

     

    When using Lightroom and PS CS3 together, it is essential to have as much RAM as possible. A 64bit CPU and OS, with a motherboard that allows extra RAM certainly wouldn't hurt.

  2. I can understand that they had materials in the midst of conversion on site, but their scenario sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Right down to having their web site hosted on their own premises. Nobody does that anymore. That is what hosting companies are for.

     

    The story doesn't explain anything about what if any off site digital backup storage they had. However, their indication that their "entire customer database" was lost is ridiculous in addition to negligent. It is their fault for not having off site backups of their core business information. That business is likely going to be sued out of existence for its negligence. Condolences to their customers, but tisk tisk on that company.

     

    Their disaster story should serve as a cautionary tale for anyone in any form of photography business. Have you made your off site backups tonight? If so, are they in an adequately secure, fire resistance rated location?

  3. The link below is an article by Nikon that provides its recommendations for VR on a tripod with various lenses listed in the article.

     

     

    http://support.nikontech.com/cgi-bin/nikonusa.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=7676&p_created=1067977631&p_sid=_SDX8e5j&p_accessibility=0&p_redirect=&p_lva=&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPTEmcF9zb3J0X2J5PSZwX2dyaWRzb3J0PSZwX3Jvd19jbnQ9NTIsNTImcF9wcm9kcz04MSZwX2NhdHM9MCZwX3B2PTEuODEmcF9jdj0mcF9zZWFyY2hfdHlwZT1hbnN3ZXJzLnNlYXJjaF9ubCZwX3BhZ2U9MSZwX3NlYXJjaF90ZXh0PXZy&p_li=&p_topview=1

     

     

     

    The Vibration Reduction technology built into some Nikon lenses or the COOLPIX 8800 can reduce or eliminate vibration during shooting. When the camera is on a tripod there will be very little (if any) movement so the question arises if VR should be used or not.

     

     

    There are two techniques when using a camera/lens mounted on a tripod; keeping the pan/tilt head loose or fluid (when panning or moving with a subject) and keeping the pan/tilt head locked down and rigid while using a cable release (time exposures or for the new HDR techniques).

     

    With the following lenses/cameras VR should be "Off" when the camera is mounted on a tripod and the pan/tilt head is locked down and using a cable release:

     

    * 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Micro Nikkor

    * 18-200mm f3.5-5.6 ED-IF AF-S VR DX Zoom-Nikkor

    * 24-120mm f3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor

    * 70-200mm f2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor

    * 80-400mm f4.5-5.6D ED VR AF Zoom-Nikkor

    * 70-300mm f4.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor

    * Coolpix 8800

     

    With the following lenses/cameras VR should be "On" when the camera is mounted on a tripod and the pan/tilt head is loose (fluid) while using the cameras shutter release button:

     

    * 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Micro Nikkor

    * 18-200mm f3.5-5.6 ED-IF AF-S VR DX Zoom-Nikkor

    * 24-120mm f3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor

    * 70-200mm f2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor

    * 80-400mm f4.5-5.6D ED VR AF Zoom-Nikkor

    * 70-300mm f4.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor

    * Coolpix 8800

     

    Nikon VR technology in the following lenses can detect minute vibrations that emanate from tripod legs. With the following lenses VR can be "On" when the camera is mounted on a tripod for either technique:

     

    * 200-400mm f4G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor

    * 200mm f2G ED-IF AF-S VR Nikkor

    * 300mm f2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Nikkor

     

    For all lenses VR should be "On" when the camera/lens is used on a monopod.

  4. Purchasing studio strobes can be at least as complex a process as choosing and investing in a camera system. There are varying approaches to overall system design, and numerous manufacturers, each with their own unique approach to designing studio strobe lighting.

     

    As with camera purchases, budget is probably a factor for most people. Requirements like portability are also considerations for many people. As with most high-end photographic purchases, an extended research period is probably a good idea. In large cities, it is also possible to rent studio strobe equipment, which can help when getting some idea of which brand to invest in.

     

    In addition to lights, some form of trigger setup is also necessary, as others have described. As others have noted, most often you get what you pay for when choosing a trigger system. The Pocketwizard brand is probably most respected. Sekonic light meters have built in pocketwizard transmitters so they can fire strobes to take measurements. That is one of many reasons most people use Pocketwizard triggers. Lighting companies light Profoto, and I think Elinchrom recently, have Pocketwizard support in their lighting systems as well.

     

    Despite everything I have said, most quality studio lighting systems are designed to be simple and reliable. Although a group of devices are involved, once configured, good ones just work repeatedly and dependably. A strobe is fired either by an attached Pocketwizard (or other type of trigger) or in synch with other lights when they fire, via built-in photo-cell receivers just about all studio strobes have.

     

    The lighting system I use is the Bowens Gemini Digital. It has a very simple interface. Most of the time the only thing I do is flip the power switch and turn the one and only main dial on its side to set the output level in joules (sometimes called watt-seconds (ws)). Its LED display shows its output level. However, it has a menu system displayed on its LED that supports numerous custom settings that once configured probably aren't changed that often. I know I don't.

     

    From an artistic perspective, multiple lights are used in photographs to give an image what people call "dimension". One form of dimension producing light is called "rim light" where a bare strobe, sometimes with grids, is placed behind a subject to produce a halo effect. There many others.

     

    Another reason for multiple lights is to reduce the dynamic range of the lighting levels in a photograph so that even though a shadow exists, its lower light level is well enough within the dynamic range of the other light levels to produce a photograph with minimal noise. Sometimes a reflector substitutes for an individual light, but the purpose is the same, to make a shadow less pronounced.

     

    Specular highlights combined with soft flat light are another reason to use multiple lights. A subject can be light with diffused light to expose it evenly, and then a light source with highlights that selectively expose areas to white can produce controlled and desirable white highlights when used carefully.

     

    Those are just a few reasons why photographers often use multiple light sources and lighting types. The light sources may be strobes or they may be light created by reflectors. Ambient light situations often produce these same kinds of effects without any artificial light sources, which is probably where many photographers got these concepts initially, and further developed them using artificial lighting techniques. Observation is a great resource.

  5. If you don't have portable studio strobes that run on a battery pack, like Bowens Gemini Digital, there are alternatives.

     

    The beach is a great place to use something like a 580EX II mounted on a stand with a shoot-thru umbrella. On a west coast beach, in late afternoon, place the sun behind your subject at a 60-75 degree angle to catch some rim lighting from the sun on the side of your subject. Position the flash through the umbrella with negative compensation. A gel on it can also give a nice effect, to match the flash color with the tungsten like sunset color.

     

    A graduated neutral density filter angled and fading across the sunlight can also help balance the sunlight intensity with the lower light level of the rest of the frame. The best time for such pictures is relatively near sunset. Earlier in the day, the sun produces a light many photogs call "monster light", which has a tendency to wash out photographs unless handled very carefully.

  6. I don't believe in the notion of "beginner" DSLRs. My suggestion is that you purchase as much DSLR camera as you can afford. Remember that using a DSLR requires reading the manual very thoroughly, and getting some practice. However, it is very easy to start with program mode, or the convenience modes on a Canon DSLR for example, and then branch out from there.

     

    Right now the Canon 40D is a great buy with a kit lens because of instant rebates Canon currently has. The Nikon cameras are equally great. The Nikon D200 and D300 are wonderful cameras that will also provide many years of satisfaction.

     

    http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/EC2744/

     

     

    http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/NZ1203/

     

     

    http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/NZ1302/

  7. I wish ..

     

    I have yet to find a truly worthy college level text about the quickly evolving topic of studio lighting techniques. I have yet to discover anything that I could imagine being used in a university level setting or at a place like the Brooks Institute.

     

    Studio lighting technology keeps evolving at a fast clip. The "traditional" principles still apply, but too many great photographs "break" the old rules too much to call them "rules" anymore.

     

    I would imagine that this topic is ripe for someone to give it an excellent treatment. There is just too much useless junk on the shelves of bookstores and in the web pages of amazon.com. With new tools appearing often, and with CS3 post processing techniques, the landscape seems quite vast.

     

    Meanwhile, I imagine classes are taught with custom made handouts, and a lot of hands on tutorial while lacking a comprehensive text book, especially since there would likely be separate textbooks for each discipline: portrait; fashion; nature (still life and wildlife), products, food, architecture, and so on. In the meantime, people who have evolved their craft often hold their skills as close trade secrets, lest their professional attractiveness quickly become the tools of their competitors. The landscape is rough out there when anybody with enough gear can call herself a professional. At the same time, people with truly great skills do amazing things with minimal equipment, while hacks create messes and schlock with mountains of gear they don't know how to control.

  8. Instead of creating a collection, it is possible to export to a catalog from a folder. Just right click on any folder and select the "export as catalog option". Be certain to "include negative files". In Lightroom speak, that means Lightroom will make copies of all the original RAW and other files in the folder and place the copies into the folder that contains the new catalog.

     

    Once complete, burn the DVD from the entire folder hierarchy that contains the catalog and the copies of the image files. Once the DVD backup copy is complete, you can delete the copy of the catalog that is on the hard drive, since it is safely stored on the DVD.

     

    This is how I make backup copies of each and all of my projects on a regular basis. For large projects, good DVD burning software has an option to build multiple DVD sets. Once available, it may be helpful to have a Blu-Ray burner drive so that it will be possible to create even larger discs. The new Blu-Ray burners can create discs up 25GB and 50GB depending on format.

     

    http://www.electronista.com/articles/08/05/27/lacie.doubles.drive.speed/

  9. Have you ever used a Lastolite Hilite background?

     

    If so, what are you impressions of its construction quality?

     

    If so, how easy is it to position the light heads to get the even back light

    they advertise?

     

    If so, how well does it dissemble for travel to location shoots?

     

    If so, would you recommend it to others?

     

    How does its use compare with using a 77in x 77in scrim in front an x-large 6ft

    x 5ft softbox pointing toward the camera?

     

     

    http://www.lastolite.com/hilite-backgrounds.php

  10. I use the following radio frequency (RF), wireless shutter release from Adorama.com.

     

    http://www.adorama.com/CZDRHSCA.html

     

    It supports 16 different channels via dip switches on its two components. It supports the same two-stage release system available on the camera itself. Each component also has an LED that changes color to provide visual feedback that the devices are functioning correctly. It also includes a switch that enables "bulb" usage, which holds the shutter open the entire time the button is held on the trigger.

     

    For its $109.95 cost, this device has been flawless, and better than accessories that cost two, three, and four times as much. Another nice feature is that the remote part is small enough to fit within the palm so that self portraits are possible with the shutter release hidden in the palm.

  11. A single soft-box is not the magic bullet for creating great photographs. Exciting photographs are usually the result of multiple light sources. Realistically, a photographer needs a family of softboxes, reflectors, barn-doors, grids, gels, white-cards, black flags, and other tools to develop memorable shots. Realistically, a photographer needs both a reasonably complete set of tools and well developed skills based on a foundation of proven photographic principals.
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