smarksphotography
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Posts posted by smarksphotography
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<p>Hi, <br>
I realize that this a bit of FAQ, but I haven't found what I consider a simple enough answer. Perhaps this is not one, but I am just looking for a rule of thumb to go by so that I can price my artwork and track my expenses a bit better. It doesn't have to be accurate to the dollar or anything like that. </p>
<p>I am using Epson 4880 and would like to have some idea what the average cost is print per square inch. <br>
I typically print 8 x 11 or 11 x 17 or 17 x 22 and would like to have some vague idea as to the cost of the ink being used. I realize the type of paper probably matters some and clearly the image will effect which colors are used etc, but I am not looking to be that precise. <br>
Thanks in advance for any tips. </p>
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<p>Thanks everyone. I think I am finally on top of this. My biggest mistake was not selecting computer-based color management. I had printer-based color management activated selected (and using epson Luster) was getting what I thought where pretty decent results. I think once I switch to computer-based color management (I hadn't realized that was more or less the standard for serious printing) I'll be OK. </p>
<p>Thanks again. </p>
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<p>Thanks everyone. I think I am finally on top of this. My biggest mistake was not selecting computer-based color management. I had printer-based color management activated selected (and using epson Luster) was getting what I thought where pretty decent results. I think once I switch to computer-based color management (I hadn't realized that was more or less the standard for serious printing) I'll be OK. </p>
<p>Thanks again. </p>
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I tried both of those places without success.
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<p>OK, I think my last post crossed with the one directly above it because I don't think I saw it before posting my last one. It clears up a few things. I didn't realize the media-type is hard wired. I thought adding icc files would add to those choices. <br>
However, I am still a bit confused. I'd like to print from Lightroom using the Premium Canvas Satin media type since that the canvas I am going to use. I haven't opened the box yet, because I wanted to configure the computer first,but I'l give that a try.<br>
Thanks,spencer </p>
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<p>
<p>Hi again, </p>
<p>I attempted to grab the printer profile for:</p>
<p>Premium Canvas Satin</p>
<p>here:</p>
<p>http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/jsp/Pro/ICCProfilesAll.do?BV_UseBVCookie=yes</p>
<p>I contains two icc files and two pdf files.</p>
<p>I tried putting them in the locations suggested above without success. </p>
<p>I happen to be at the apple store right now and the genius is telling me the files I downloaded are for monitor calibration not printing and that likely the epson site download is incorrect... I am a bit skeptical about that, but still at a loss. </p>
<p>Thanks again for the help.</p>
<p>Spencer</p>
<p> </p>
</p>
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<p>
<p>Hi again, </p>
<p>I attempted to grab the printer profile for:</p>
<p>Premium Canvas Satin</p>
<p>here:</p>
<p>http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/jsp/Pro/ICCProfilesAll.do?BV_UseBVCookie=yes</p>
<p>I contains two icc files and two pdf files.</p>
<p>I tried putting them in the locations suggested above without success. </p>
<p>I happen to be at the apple store right now and the genius is telling me the files I downloaded are for monitor calibration not printing and that likely the epson site download is incorrect... I am a bit skeptical about that, but still at a loss. </p>
<p>Thanks again for the help.</p>
<p>Spencer</p>
<p> </p>
</p>
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<p>
<p>Hi<br>
I was wondering how to install new printer .icc files under Mac OS X 1.6.2<br>
I just downloaded some new icc files from epson (well, just means about 2 hours ago) and despite lots of querying can't figure out to install them so that they show up in the printer settings -> basic tab -> Media Type drop down menu. <br>
(I am trying to use them from lightroom, but doubt the application should matter, right?)<br>
Any help greatly appreciated. <br>
Thanks in advance,<br>
Spencer</p>
</p>
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<p>Was hoping it would be funnier than it turned out to be. Had some potential though. Oh well. </p>
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<p>Thanks for the help. I suspect I could probably sell the Eye One down the road if I felt like I needed the printer profile capability. So maybe I'll start there. (I don't even have a printer yet, and might decide to keep working with print labs anyway). </p>
<p>Thanks again. <br>
Spencer</p>
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<p>At this point, I am sold on the idea of doing it, I am just trying to decide I want to spent the extra $100 to $150 on the ColorMunki or not. <br>
I've been told that high end printers like the epson 3880 and 4880 I am considering come with good profiles for the popular papers so I am not sure I need to also calibrate the printer, but I am not sure about that. </p>
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<p>Thanks for the info. When I do this, it will be interesting as I really like my monitors bright (I always have them to set to maximum setting.) So I think I am going to have to get used the "correct" settings. </p>
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<p>If you have a "pro" printer like the epson 3880 or 4880 how important is being able to calibrate the printer? I've heard: "not so much" as they come calibrated and tend to stay that way. I am looking for opinions on this though. <br>
Its seems like the answer to that question will help me decide between the EyeOne or the ColorMunki. <br>
Thanks in advance. </p>
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<p>If you have a "pro" printer like the epson 3880 or 4880 how important is being able to calibrate the printer? I've heard: "not so much" as they come calibrated and tend to stay that way. I am looking for opinions on this though. <br>
Its seems like the answer to that question will help me decide between the EyeOne or the ColorMunki. <br>
Thanks in advance. </p>
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<p>Does the ColorMunki work better than Eye-One or just offer more (i.e. print) features?<br>
Thanks for the info. </p>
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<p>Hi, <br>
After reading this really helpful thread, I am still left wondering which printer to invest in. <br>
Here's some info:<br>
This will be my first serious color printer. <br>
I print low volume on paper and canvas. <br>
I plan to find a paper I like and stick to it. <br>
I have limited space (I know this strongly suggests the 3880)<br>
Then ability to do rolls (especially in regards to canvas) is appealing. <br>
The lack of a paper try in the 3880 is a concern. (What does this mean exactly, each sheet is hand fed?). <br>
The current price of the 4880 including rebate puts it pretty close to the 3880, I think. (I need to double check that). $1319.95 for the 4880 while the 3880 is either 1,295.00 or 1,495.00 (Graphic Arts Edition). <br>
What is the difference between the Graphic Arts Edition and standard? (Does the Graphic Arts Edition come with ink or something?)<br>
Any additional comments appreciated. <br>
Thanks. </p>
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<p>
<p>Hi, <br>
I have recently be advised by a couple of professional photographers that if I am not color calibrating my monitors I am not doing an important post processing step when developing my images. <br>
One of the gentlemen was more adamant about the importance of this than the other, but both calibrated their monitors. The less enthusiastic photographer said, "yeah, I do this, probably not enough, but I don't notice a huge difference, and the monitors these days seem to stay calibrated."<br>
One was a Mac user and the other had Dell equipment. I'll note that the less enthusiastic photographer seemed to do less print work. <br>
I got the following recommendations:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>X-Rite Eye-One Display LT Color Management Solution (low end)<br>
X-Rite ColorMunki Photo Color Management Solution (high end)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The less enthusiastic photographer used some version of a Spyder, but I didn't get the specific version.<br>
To follow this up, I have done some reading on photo.net including this one:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>http://www.photo.net/equipment/color-calibration/datacolor-spyder3-elite/</p>
</blockquote>
<p>where the author by saying:</p>
<blockquote>
<p> "I have put a roof over my head and food on my table as a professional photographer for a decade now...However, I am almost embarrassed to admit that I have never once done any serious color calibration on any monitor I have owned. " </p>
</blockquote>
<p>but then goes on to give a thorough review. <br>
At this point I guess calibration is something I should start doing if I am serious about post processing my images successfully. I wonder if there's anyone out there who would disagree with that point?<br>
Having concluded that, I am now left wondering which device to purchase. I was looking to get some comments regarding the choices. <br>
While I hate buying things twice, in this case, I think I'd prefer to get something basic and economical rather than something I might use the down the road. <br>
Here are some details that should effect my decision:<br>
I use a Mac and with Apple Cinema Displays. <br>
I print my images to paper and canvas. I also display them on the web (who doesn't, I guess). I also plan (but actually haven't yet) to get albums printed by the likes of MyPublisher. <br>
I currently do not own a printer and have been relying on service bureaus to tweak my images before printing them. (I want to stop having them do that.)<br>
I am currently also trying to decide if I want to invest in either an Epson 3880 or 4880 printer or continue to outsource my printing. <br>
If I continue to outsource, I want to take more active role in preparing my images for print. <br>
I have been told that if I get high quality printer like the Epson 3880 or 4880 it will come with a color profile, and I won't need to calibrate it and that I should worry about getting a device like the Spyder that does just that. <br>
I'd welcome specific Spyder recommendations, if I should actually worry about printer calibration, as well as opinions about the Spyder vs. X-Rite specifically under Mac OS X. <br>
Finally, how often do Cinema Display users find they need to calibrate their monitors?<br>
Thanks in advance. <br>
S. </p>
<p> </p>
</p>
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<p>I have the Z1 on the Gitzo with RRS plates and love it. It is a little heavy though. If I really was concerned about weight I'd try the RRS bh-25. Having experienced the RRS first hand, I can say I definitely concur it is really the right stuff. </p>
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<p>Hi, <br>
I posted this question about a year ago and while I got some helpful suggestions, I failed to find what I was looking for:<br>
someone to help me learn how to successfully post process color digital images using tools like Lightroom and Photoshop.<br>
I have some level of skill with both products, but enough to really get what I consider to be successful results consistently with either product. <br>
I leave in eastern Massachusetts and I am looking for a professional photographer who is interested in training me one on one. <br>
<p>
<p>I am a long time amateur photographer. I am a full time software developer. I have been slowing trying to develop a part time business as a life style photographer doing informal family portraits. I have done lots of B&W work and taken photo courses in high school, college and while working. I used to know my way around a traditional dark room. I am looking to develop my chops in the digital dark room. Some of my work can found here: http://smarks.zenfolio.com and here http://thewinterway.com/photos</p>
Other reasons I am looking for a one on one situation include my schedule (which is somewhat restrictive) and more importantly how I learn. I know I'd benefit from a one on one teaching scenario that can be tailored to just what I am looking for (and what the teacher things I need).
<br>
If you enjoy teaching / mentoring and think you might be interested in helping me a long, please get in touch and we'll see what can work out. I can pay cash for training but would also be interested in bartering my skills as a software developer for your skills as a photographer, or perhaps you need a second shooter for some gigs? (I have all my own equipment). </p>
<br>
Thanks in advance, Spencer</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>OK, now I am learning towards the 2 CPU configuration. This site really helped:<br>
<a href="http://macperformanceguide.com/Mac-Refurbished.html">http://macperformanceguide.com</a></p>
<p> </p>
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<p>Still not clear on which is better the single faster CPU or the dual slower ones. I am starting to think the slower ones will be generally be better because photo editing is memory bound rather than cpu activity. </p>
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<p>Still not clear on which is better the single faster CPU or the dual slower ones. I am starting to think the slower ones will be generally be better because photo editing is memory bound rather than cpu activity. </p>
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<p>Thanks, actually, If I had to quantify I'd my biggest hotspot is the rendering of the previews in Lightroom, after that maybe export speeds but those don't actually stop me from working. </p>
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<p>Thanks for the additional info.<br>
I definitely agree about the the dual monitors. I am starting to wonder if 6 gigs are enough. I am also getting some feedback that upgrading the video card can make a big difference but Adobe's tech not on the subject suggests that only some operations are in fact improved. http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/404/kb404898.html</p>
Calculating Average Ink Cost
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted
<p>Hi, Yes, the 4880 can take the larger 220ml cartridges, which I think are about $80 a piece. .50 - .60 per 8.5 x 11 is a number I can easily use to figure out rough cost - assuming the ink use is constant as paper size increases (can't imagine it is not). </p>
<p>Thanks, Spencer</p>