chas._boehm

<p>I've been depressed for a month, or more, now not knowing the direction to take.</p> <p>I have lost at least three years of photos on my external hard drive (a second external hard drive has photos before 2013). I attempted to recover the photos using recovery software, but viewing the results I could not discern what I was looking at. Many were just icons of a sheet of paper with the corner folded over. I elected not to buy the software to save the recovered files. On top of this I tried to copy a lightroom catalog to second catalog and made a second catastrophic error...I made catalog B the same as catalog A (should have been the reverse). All the many years of cataloging and keywording are now gone! Both catalogs are empty! There seems to be no 'Undo' in lightroom. I'm toast!</p> <p>The external hard drive may have been added to...not certain.</p> <p>A second hard drive contains photos before 2013.</p> <p>Need a shoulder to cry on.</p> <p>CBoehm</p>

<p>I've used a D810 (Full Frame seems necessary) with bellows/50mm, slide copier and electronic flash to copy slides at a rate of 8 to 10 a minutes and although I don't consider them museum quality..they are family museum treasures.</p> <p>ChasBOEHM</p>

<p>C.P.M.:<br> Your thorough, concise recommendations worked perfectly with more than a dozen test shots.</p> <p>Thank you... and other responders. Nine focus points, Aperture priority, AF-ON; Fire away!</p> <p>ChasBOEHM</p>

<p>There are a couple good suggestions in these responses that I will act upon in another week or 10 days. I prefer using my 50 mm/1.4 prime lens. (lightweight and fast)</p> <p>Thanks for the suggestions!</p> <p>ChasBOEHM</p>

<p>I'm using an SB900 mounted on a D810 in Cl Release Mode attempting to take multiple shots about 1.5 sec apart of a group of excited youngsters after a sports match. I find many of the pics are out of focus. I'd like a recommendation for appropriate camera settings..or other helpful comments. Currently using AFC 3d and 51 Focus points and Jpeg/Normal.</p> <p>Remember: Take pics of your family.</p> <p>ChasBOEHM</p>

<p>Want photo credit? Why not embed the pic with a watermark or identity plate (Lightroom)?</p> <p> </p>

<p>Completed the suggested procedure by Andrew Rodney and found I could not, with my aging eyes, detect any difference what so ever between an 8x10 (360 ppi) and an 8x10 (180 pip). I'm startled!</p> <p>I do have a better grasp of Image Size and Canvas Size after this discussion.</p> <p>Thank you all!</p> <p>ChasBOEHM</p>

<p>I'll run this procedure on my Mac tomorrow.</p> <p>Thanks</p> <p>ChasB</p>

<p>I will take your suggestions (retrain myself) and give them a go. Using a very dependable 3880 to print.</p> <p>Best to All,</p> <p>ChasB</p>

<p>I'm a bit wary of the pixel juggle. If the long side of my image as indicated in Image Size reads 2125 pixels and I want a 10 inch long side print, that gives me 212 resolution. It has been drummed into my head over the years that one should shoot for 240 to 360 ppi. Yes, I understand about viewing a print at such and such feet. I'm looking for better sharpness...usually. Yes, I always leave 'resample' OFF.</p> <p>Chase</p>

<p>My document is displayed as my image with a white canvas border. If I set a canvas size to 8.5x11, image size changes to reflect the change. If I set image size to 8x10, canvas size changes to reflect the change. Document size does not change...remains at 126M. I think I may be confused, as many times in the past, with pixel count and dimensions. Can't seem to get it straight. So, I do understand your first and third paragraph response.</p> <p>ChasB</p>

<p>Then I expect image size for a postage stamp would read 13/16 inch by 1 inch...instead it reads 8.5x11.</p>

<p>Trying to print a ~8x10 on 8.5x11. (image is actually 8 by 10.353). Not understanding why canvas size and image size are dependent. I set image size then set canvas size to 8.5x11. When I check image size it has changed to canvas size.</p> <p>ChasB</p>

<p>Hello There,</p> <p>Spring and summer will be here before ya know it. A yearly family party will be held too. I'm thinking I'd like to take photographs and wirelessly send them to an assistant at an indoor computer (Mac) who will print them on an Epson desktop printer. Reading about this sort of thing, it looks like an expensive setup like the combination of WU-1A and WT-5A on my D810 is the only dependable way to go. Do I need to worry about 802.11n or 802.11ac compliance? Might all be too expensive for me, but I'd like to know how it all works. Have for many a year thought about some sort of 'Photo Booth' for get-togethers.</p> <p>Take care,</p> <p>ChasB</p>

<p>AR: I've read with interest a number of your writings concerning Color Management and appreciate having them available for reference. Thank you. </p> <p>Thanks for putting me at ease regarding the minor K difference.</p> <p>EV: Thank you for mentioning the dual illuminant profile. I <em>will</em> get to it. I'd like know and be comfortable with 'What I'm doing" with the Passport first, although it seems rather easy. Getting the correct result seems more difficult. I am happy with the monitor calibration...for now.</p>

<p>Hello,</p> <p>Honestly, I do not know the nuances of Passport, but I just took two headshot photos of a person in the exact same light with the passport next to the face. After importing into LR5, selecting my camera profile, and doing the light balance thing I find a similar point on the face will give a 100˚K change. Is this of any significance? </p> <p>I find it quite striking the color change in viewing a print in five different light sources (Solex, incandescent A & B, overcast daylight, and fluorescent)! I'm wondering how a professional portrait photographer could ever produce a print not knowing the light source the customer will view the print (s). </p> <p>Having 'Fun'.</p> <p>ChasB.</p>