jeff_stuart

I use a cheap 25� x 27� generic-brand bag. It�s ok for 35mm. I�ve

loaded as many as 4 reels at a time with it, there�s enough room for

that. A bag is way way easier than trying to make a room light-tight.

<p>

Can�t say whether a bag can be too big. If you can lose a cassette in

there it is probably too big?

<p>

Once in the tank, move your processing to the kitchen. If your

girlfriend complains about that then don�t hesitate to accommodate

her.

<p>

Cheers,

Dave,

<p>

I have the SCA 3502/M2 adapter. On the aft end is a swing gate which

opens to reveal four switches which enable and control -3 1/3 to +3

1/3 TTL compensation. I have tested this carefully and it works as

expected with the M6 TTL.

<p>

Cheers,

Actually Greg I don�t spend any time watching Dan Rather. Did he

comment on the M7 too? I�ll have to start watching the guy, thanks

for the tip.

John,

<p>

Contact DAG Camera at http://www.dagcamera.com/. They sell the

pressure plate & springs for screw mount Leicas for about $25. They

may have the M6 plate too, though I didn�t see it on their parts

list. If they don�t have it I�m sure they�ll advise you where else to

look. If the camera is light-tight you probably don�t need a new door.

<p>

Given the thickness of the aluminum I�d say there is no way on Earth

to flatten a bent plate.

<p>

Good luck,

Steve,

<p>

First, congratulations on dodging the knife. Keep that up.

<p>

I spent some wonderful days in Maui years ago. It is an amazing place

including a sunken volcano, an eroded volcano, an inactive volcano,

tropical rain forests, pineapple plantations, deserts, cattle

ranches, alpine forests and flora found nowhere else. There�s all

kinds of landscapes, endless views. And oh yeah, sunsets.

<p>

There used to be �undeveloped� (local) beaches on the south and north

ends of the island. Really neat places. That was 20 years ago. They

are probably golf courses by now.

<p>

I had one 35mm camera, lenses of 35mm, 50mm and 105mm. I never felt I

wanted anything wider than 35, but I did wish for a longer lens. With

your kit I�d probably be using the 135 lens and Rollie alot. Macro

never occurred to me.

<p>

While you�re on the west side of the island, spend a half day to

drive up to the summit of Haleakala. 10,800 feet as I recall. You can

see the Big Island on a clear day. They close the summit when it�s

cloudy, so don�t put it off till the last day. Trust me, it is good.

And if you dive get a boat to Molokini.

<p>

Aloha,

Thanks George. Last I read the USPS was not saying the extent of

their plans.

<p>

I wonder, do they think the protected ZIPs include the only people

worth protecting? Or the only people worth attacking?

<p>

Happily my Kodachrome mailers and I are in a different ZIP axis

altogether.

<p>

Cheers,

Bob,

<p>

I don�t think this CF news will slow the digital juggernaut. There�s

no need to mail CF cards. If you�re traveling you�d certainly carry

your card(s) on your person. And if you do have to mail images you�d

burn them on CD and mail the CD. And of course you can send images

electronically if you�ve got the bandwidth.

<p>

Don�t get me wrong, I�m a fan of film and plan to be shooting it

right up till I�m planted. I keep hoping the USPS will find some

better way to handle the terrorist threat. That would be good news

for us dinosaurs.

<p>

Cheers,

Fran,

<p>

There are a few alternatives between the automatic bliss of the ATL

and the hellish toil of hand processing. I use a Jobo CPE2+ for

instance, and I find it produces results superior to my local �pro�

labs on a consistent basis. CPE�s with the lift attachment

(recommended) are for sale on EBay anywhere from US$300 to US$400.

Throw in a tank, bottles, thermometers, you should be able to get

started for around US$500 fixed cost. The CPE2+ is the preferred unit

in the CPE line as it has an improved motor and thermal protection

for the heater.

<p>

Besides the CPE Jobo also makes the CPA and CPP processors which have

tighter temp controls than the CPE, and stronger motors for swinging

larger tanks. Any of them can do E6 quite well, though they are

manual processors compared to the ATL series. (See http://www.jobo-

usa.com/products/processor_comparison.htm

for more info.)

<p>

C41 is easy to do with the CPx processors as well. B&W, in my

opinion, is easier done by hand.

<p>

Mike, I�ve run maybe 16 rolls of pushed Provia and I�ve never noticed

a color shift. I�ve never pushed any other emulsion. I rate the film

EI160 and process a nominal N+1, or EI320 and N+2. I also tweak the

2nd developer, though this is an attempt to manage saturation

somewhat, not color balance. My only complaint pushing Provia is the

blue layer gets severely underexposed in tungsten light, and it gets

pretty twitchy trying to correct it after the exposure. I now use a

blue filter for pushed Provia in tungsten light (which negates the

extra speed, but whadyagonnado?) Unfiltered florescent light is

easier to post-process.

<p>

Using JOBO�s 1520 tank I use 250 ml solution for two 35mm rolls.

That�s 40 rolls per 5 liter kit. Kodak�s 6-bath 5-liter goes for

~US$50 and Tetenal (with some creative purchasing) about the same.

The 1520 will also do two 120 rolls or one 220 I think, I don�t shoot

6cm film. I have used up most of one Tetenal kit which is now 5+

months old and I haven�t noticed any degradation in quality due to

oxidation of the concentrates.

<p>

I started doing my own E6 because I was disappointed in the local

labs (including two Q-Star labs) and mailers were unattractive. I

continue because I get good results and I enjoy it. The money you may

save (or not) is small compared to the time invested. I wouldn�t want

to do it for a living, but as recreational entertainment, it is good

fun. And as Phil Greenspun says in his tutorial on Photo.net, when

you set eyes on a clean dry roll of slide film you developed

yourself, you feel like a hero.

<p>

Cheers,

Alex,

<p>

What precisely do you mean by �The TTL is like a hungry baby�

regarding batteries? Leica specifies 2900 frames per battery set. I

use lithium batteries and I�m doing better than that, about 100

rolls/battery. I�m not really sure because I�ve never let the battery

fail.

<p>

How many rolls does your �hungry baby� shoot before it needs to be

fed? If it is below specs maybe your camera needs service?

<p>

In an age when many cameras drain a set of 4 AA�s in 40 minutes of

normal use, and critical assignments require separate battery packs

strapped to the photographer�s belt, it is misleading to suggest the

M6TTL is a battery hog. Don�t be dissuaded Sybil, or anyone else.

Batteries are a non-issue with the M6TTL.

<p>

Cheerios,

Tampa, FL, USA. Chris Lutz, you must be in South Tampa, it�s only 75

up here in Town & Country.

Please excuse my ignorance, does this produce a negative or

conventional positive?

He shoots everything 1/15th @f1.4? He gets an amazing DOF for f1.4.

None of my lenses can do that.

Phillip,

<p>

Cross processing in what way? 1st developer? What�s the basic process?

<p>

I do my own E6 using Tetenal 6-bath and experiment mostly with Fuji

Provia trying, for the most part, to extend the contrast range. I�m

getting good results rating the film at 120 (under exposing) &

processing the 1st dev. the �normal� time (~6:50 in a rotary tank)

and pulling the color dev. about 5%. Saturation is more than adequate

for my tastes, and skin tones in particular are nice & smooth

compared to by-the-book exposure & processing.

<p>

I�ve never seen any color shift with Provia & Tetenal between a �1/3

to a +2 push (which involves both 1st & color dev. timing.)

<p>

I did see a definite blue cast once when I omitted the reversal and

ran the color dev. only half its normal time. Maybe that should be a

blew cast? But, considering the dumbass treatment, the film performed

admirably.

<p>

I�m always interested in E6 info. Please tell me more.

<p>

Cheers,

Mark,

<p>

All lenses exhibit a decreasing DOF at wider apertures. For portraits

and some stills, especially when the subject is close, the thin DOF

at f1.4 can be used to emphasize the subject.

<p>

Comparing shots taken by the Summilux at f2.0 vs. f1.4 the difference

in focus is subtle but discernible. I wouldn�t give it up, I like the

effect. The only fault I see in the �lux is it gets a little soft

when opened that last stop. That used to bother me. It doesn�t bother

me so much now.

<p>

I have the lenses you are considering along with the 35 Summicron

ASPH. The newer (90 & 35) designs are amazingly sharp. But in the end

I have more good shots taken with the 50 than either of the others. I

like the perspective, the close (for Leica anyway) focus, and the

thin DOF when I want it. And the extra speed doesn�t hurt.

<p>

BTW I also have the .85 body � it works great with these lenses.

<p>

Good luck, whatever you choose I think you�ll do well,

Sorry George, not true. You cannot duplicate the lovely DOF of the

1.4 lens be changing film.

Pat,

<p>

I recall reading somewhere (can�t find it at the moment) that the

Microtek 4000 has the same internals as the Polaroid SprintScan 4000.

The promo photos for the M look identical to the P other than the

positions of some switches & lights. The specs are identical as well.

<p>

If it is the same, then it is indeed a good performer, especially

with slides. I have the Polaroid and like it alot. I see it for $750 -

$200 rebate at B&H which is a lot of scanner for the money. This

includes the Silverfast plugin for Photoshop which is pretty nice

too. Only does 35mm, but then so does my M6.

<p>

Cheers,

Mani,

<p>

First attempt, illumination 350 lux, wind out of the north 5-7 knots,

I completed the exercise in 40 seconds or so. Second attempt, well

there was no second attempt because I rewound the leader from a

perfectly good unexposed roll of E100S into the cassette after the

first attempt. Rats. (BTW I also set the camera�s meter speed which

Mani�s instructions don�t require. Without this laborious step I

might have been down in the low teens, for sure.)

<p>

Kaisern, I had a watch like the once. Maybe it just needs a new

battery?

<p>

Also, I�d like to try Bill�s technique but I don�t have an ABCON. Is

it OK to just go in the kitchen and have a beer, skip the ABCON and

the bleeding part?

<p>

Cheers,

Tristan,

<p>

Ignore those funny boys. They probably ate too many Christmas cookies

and they�re a little hyper.

<p>

The correct answer is send the camera to me and I will exercise it

for you.

<p>

Also kidding of course. Remove the battery, wind and fire the shutter

at all speeds a few times, exercise the brightline selector. Better

yet of course, shoot film with it.

<p>

Cheers,

Rick,

<p>

I use the same combination (M6TTL/Metz SCA 3502-M2/Metz 32 Z2) and it

behaves as you describe. It works fine too (especially for �bounce�

lighting).

<p>

My reading of the manuals is different from yours. Page 12 of the

Metz manual states the lightening bolt is �permanently lit� to

indicate the flash is ready. The Leica manual is more ambiguous,

saying if the bolt �continues to flash� this indicates the flash unit

is ready. This may be a poor translation of the original German I

suspect.

<p>

In any case, I think you�ll find your unit is working fine. The 32 Z2

is a handy light, small and versatile. You can�t beat the swivel head

for fast & easy lighting options either.

<p>

Cheers,

I woke up in a sociology lecture once and heard the lecturer remark

that under stress social groups tend to define themselves more by

what they are not than by what they are. In other words, groups

tighten ranks by exclusion. This is accomplished by individuals

assigning increasing significance to smaller and smaller perceived

differences between them.

<p>

When the �M� and �R� camps square off then we�ll know the end is near.

I haven�t done B&W in years (but I do E6 at home, so I�m not out of

touch.) First concern: trust me, no hands on Earth are gentler with

your film than yours. Your film will never be safer. (You will screw

up and gouge the emulsion and you will never do it again � the clods

at the lab will do it again and again and again...)

<p>

Second, chemical shelf life: if you process infrequently look for a

powder developer, mix as little as you can manage, use it one-shot.

As I recall D-76 and Microdol last 2+ months as a working solution. I

don�t think refrigeration helps, but evacuating air from the storage

bottles does. If you process a lot then shelf life is not important.

<p>

Get a good tank and reel. I like JOBO, but there are other good

choices. Don�t put photoflo in the tank or on the reels. The wetting

agent will make the reels sticky and will cross contaminate your

developer.

<p>

Use a thermometer. Be consistent.

<p>

Drying film dust-free can be a problem. Use photoflo in your final

rinse, hang the film in a closet, see what happens. If that doesn�t

work (dust) you can buy a filtered dryer for $500 or build one for a

lot less.

<p>

Try it Gulley, it�s fun.

My sympathies to the EOS forum. You are big and strong though, and I

think you can survive this.

<p>

And please, don�t blame us. Alfie is only getting started. He

would�ve gotten to you sooner or later. Who knows, sooner might be

better?

<p>

Tony, please don�t delete anything. Censorship is darkness. I won�t

try to divide our little village into pro-Alfie vs. anti-Alfie camps.

Let�s just say the critics of Alfie�s critics are pretty consistent

in defending a �right to express oneself� and I agree. And so do we

all share this �right�?

<p>

�If you don�t like it, ignore it.� is the motto. Cuts any whichway I

think.

<p>

Childish? Vindictive? So skip my post.

After last weekend I was genuinely despondent. I had made a real

effort to ignore the big "A". But sheesh, he must do nothing but camp

on forum posts, 24 hours a day, and his "contributions", I swear, are

calculated to aggrevate. Anyway, rather than whine anymore I decided

to write my own forum-specific filtered browser. I call it the "Super

Ronco Wang-B-Gone". I am using it this very minute, and it bloody

works great. It is alpha-code right now, else I'd offer it for free

to anyone interested. BTW, it can filter any number of names and

email addresses, even mine, which should make it all the more

popular. Cheers,