mandymojica

<p>Ok, guys I got through the 8 hours, of shooting it was tiring but I love shooting and I had fun. Who ever sent me the email was completely in correct. Your right guys no way I would have gotten 8500 shots with the just shooting one image at a time. Yes of course each shot had to be composed and taken quickly but it was done in bursts of 3 to 5. I shot mostly in burst of three, reason for that being to make sure you get a sell-able shot. During the last part of the day I took it 5, just because I was tired. The head on my mono-pod broke early morning so I shot free hand all day. The marathon started out slowly I barley got anything the first two hours at the obstacle course I was positioned at. I had to stop and take group shots as well so that brought my numbers down but all and all I shot about 3000 more than the other photographers at the even. I'm assuming that is because I barley took any breaks or leave my obstacle. It was my first time shooting for them I wanted to make sure I at least kept up on my numbers. Thanks so much guys for your input it helped alot!!! I'm including one shot I took. </p><div></div>

<p>Ty first of all for your response Dave, :) what I mean by moterize is I can not use continuous high speed shooting as in bursts of 5. I must compose and shoot one shot at a time. I must do it quickly as they expect 1000 shots in an hour. I will not handle any of the selling. I just shoot and hand over the CF Card. I will not edit or be able to do anything with the images. Mostly it's the Marathon that worries me a bit. As I said Ive been practicing shooting cars driving on the road in bunches and isolating each car as they approach in anticipation for the runners. I figure If i can Isolate 40 cars coming at me shooting each one individually I should be able to do the same with runners. I shot about maybe 60 well composed isolated shots of cars coming at me at the same time. </p>

<p>Hi, I have been primarily a lifestyle and fashion photorapher. It seems as though recently I have been getting many offers and actually just got three contracts with sports event photography companies. Now, I am a photographer at heart, I'm happy no matter what the subject is as long as I have a camera or two in my hand. I am new to sports and action photography I will be shooting a Marathon, the first one this coming saturday, and the saturday after that team portraits as well as soccer photography. <br>

Does anyone have any advise that might help? I'm really nervous about the marathon, we are not allowed to moterize shots. I have been practicing shooting cars traveling at high speed. Composing and just shooting no motor, I'm expected high volume. <br>

I didn't plan on being a sports photographer but it seems to be going that way and I will take all the advise I can . Thanks in advance. I will be uploading some shots to my photo.net port, if anyone is interested. </p>

<p>Yes I do have the d7000 as well as the d700. Thanks you guys I will take all of your advise to heart awesome responses!</p>

<p>So I just got my new D700 with my Nikor 70-200 fx lens. Being a New D700 User I have newby questions. I've never shot full frame digital, Ive gone from film to mid range nikon cameras. Anyway I just tried the 700 with my dx lenses and in frame and on camera I see no aberrations, leaving me to believe that as a back up to the 7000 I should not see a difference. I have not reviewed the images on computer up close. I do however see the vignette when shooting full frame and dx. Now my question is am I missing something other than what I have noted? I want to make the most of the set up I have, until I build my fx lenses. So I would appreciate any pro advise in regards to set up and what how best to use it. Please don't be afraid to talk as if your talking to a 5 year old. I will not take offense. I will be shooting highspeed professional sports, as well as your normal portrait and commercial photography. </p>

<p>Wow, thanks everyone I didn't expect so many awesome responses. I think I will be going with the Tamron 28-75 As stated by Eric and a few Others, I'm a Nikon baby, it's all I have ever shot with, and I love my Nikon Glass, but as finances are not peek I think this is my best option. But with hopes of getting turned over to all Nikon glass in the future. Awesome guys ! Thanks ! </p>

<p>Awesome! Thanks do you think think the Tamron 28-75 ? would be a good alternative? I just shelled out quite a bit for the 70-200mm. I'm trying to keep the cost down. <br>

Yes I got the </p>

<h3 ><a href="http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tamarack%20expedition%205588&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCUQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tamrac.com%2F5588.htm&ei=9B-XUO7bMom89QTmz4HQDQ&usg=AFQjCNEN_AhRZ3MgPHUTuPVsm987_xL7oA"><em>Tamrac</em> - Model <em>5588 Expedition</em> 8x Photo Backpack</a> does not bring wheels but I figure a can get one of those suitcase dollies in case it gets to heavy? </h3>

<p>Hi everyone, I've been slowly rebuilding my equipment after an exented time with out shooting professionally. I'm back in the game and slowly building. My question is I started with a d7000, a Tokina 12-24 ultra wide dx II , Nikon 18-55 Dx, Nikon 55-200 Dx. I recently purchased the D700 with the nikon and the AF_S Nikor 70-200 f2.8. I know not a good Idea to have an fx main and dx back up but it's what I started with and I needed an fx. How can I make the best out of what I have and have an all around lens kit for the d700. I know I can use a dx on the fx I will just have to deal with the cropping factor and for now I'm willing to do that but I need lenses all around lenses for the 700 . I shoot everything from sports to portraits and fashion. If anyone can maybe give me an idea of the best way to go. Maybe what should I invest in next for the 700? Many Thanks in advance. </p>

I shot in raw format hoping it would give me control but unless i have a bad program i don't see the difference.<div></div>

another one<div></div>

Well the fashion show was a success because the promotor was happy with the images. But in reality it was a disaster, it was a local fashion show although they splurged on the venue everything else was way below par. I had difficulty lighting the place because, I only had enough lighting for the runway. Some people in the audience brought cameras of their own and kept tripping my strobes every time they took an image. My lighting is good for the studio work I shoot but not at all for this type of event and the strobes wouldnt recycle fast enough. Causing me to miss Shots. My biggest problem was that it was sooo dark, (by design of the promotor to create an intimate setting) that my camera could not focus. I could barley see I was shooting blind. I bumped up the iso to 800 and 1600 and all of my images were grainy some were saved by photoshop but others were not I will post a few examples.<div></div>

Thanks nathan and john you guys rock! i will def try that.

thanks john, what I'm not sure about is actually what lights to set. I'm thinking just lighting the end of the runway where I will be shooting. not exactly sure. I will be allowed to the terrace at night sometime next week but still not sure how to set up lights I really can't afford to light the entire runway.

 

Im including some images maybe they will help. explain.<div></div>

I'm shooting my first Fashion show, it will be atop a hotel on a roof top terrace. It will be at night no actual

runway just a red carpet. The hotel manager says that the lighting will be limited to lights that are already in

place along the lower part of the walls. I will be shooting from the far end of the terrace my view will be

unobstructed. I was given free license as far as setting up my own lights I'm on a limited budget does anyone

have any ideas?

I'm Having a hard time finding locations for fashion and glamor shoots in Central Florida .

Thanks

Hi Ill be shooting my first fashion show I would love some advise from my senior photographers. Maybe best lenses

and equipment. Any and all comments and advise are greatly appreciated.

Thanks ~ Mandy