gregcoad

September 24, 2010

Non-rotating centre column?? Don't tell me they just revised their models and I got the tail end of the last generation. My C-2681 does not have a non-rotating centre column.

Peter, can you please post the full specs for the C2680T? We are talking about a carbon fibre, 4 section tripod with fold-back "traveler" type legs right? Folds down to how long? Normal Height? Max Height? What features?

September 23, 2010

Saad.

To your original question. How much does the skilled photographer, using manual settings, add to what the camera is capable of producing using a pre-set program exposure?

The answer is everything. The skilled photographer makes the image, not the camera. There is no measureable, margin of difference betweent the two because they are two totally different results.

The question implies that a good photograph is a technically perfect one. This is not true though. Technical merit is sometimes important, but not always. Some of the most striking photographs are ones that break the "rules" of composition, exposure, white balance, etc.

I am actually a bit surprised that this discussion has gone the way it has as I thought that Photo.net was more a community of photographers than camera enthusiasts. I have briefly looked at your portfolio as well, Saad, and I would have thought that you had a very good understanding yourself of what it means to be a photographer as opposed to a "camera operator", if I can call it that. Which leads me to question whether you started this thread just for the sake of starting a discussion, or if you yourself are actually unsure of the answer to the question.

September 23, 2010

Timothy is absolutely right. If that scene had been photographed by an average joe in P mode the camera would have opened up the lens to its maximum aperature (in this case f/2.8) and tried to get the highest shutter speed possible since it would assume that the average Joe would not have a tripod handy and would be attempting a hand held shot. If the camera had Auto ISO it would have bumped up ISO as well to further increase the shutter speed.

So the shot that you see was taken at ISO 50, f/16, 0.6s (Manual exposure)

A Program exposure would probably have ended up somewhere around ISO 400, f/2.8, 1/125s.

The resulting image would have been completely unremarkable. The water would have been frozen by the 1/125 shutter speed. There would be zero depth of field at f/2.8. The edges of the image would have been quite soft at f/2.8 with just about any lens other than a few very select, very expensive ones (not the kind that average joes drop $$$ on). And depending on the camera the resulting image would have more noise due to the higher ISO.

So the difference between the two images is everything. I don't think I can say mine is 10%, 50%, 100% better. The others are simply not worth talking about. They would have no artistic merit to discuss. So the difference between the average Joe with a high end DSLR and a practiced photographer with any kind of camera is everything. The camera is simply a tool the way a router is a tool to a carpenter or a brush is a tool to a painter. Sure a better tool makes the job easier or opens the door to artistic possibilities, but it is no substitute for the artist or the craftsman that uses it.

September 23, 2010

I can assure you that many average joes, with very expensive cameras, have stood in the very same places, and taken photos of the very same scenes, where some of the world's greatest photos have been taken, but for some reason, the great photos come from the great photographers, not from the average joes with the expensive cameras.

A good photo has very little to do with a good camera. One of my favorite photography books is one that is entirely made up of photos taken with a 2 megapixel camera phone.

I myself am not a great photographer, not by any stretch. I am learning as are most of us here at photo.net. But take a look at this photo that I took on a recent back packing trip.

<a href="../photo/11444856">http://www.photo.net/photo/11444856</a>

On that day there were at least 8 other people with me and 4 of them had very sophisticated cameras. From my memory they included a Canon 5D w/24-105 F/4L, Nikon D300 w/ 18-200VR, Nikon D90 w/18-55, and Canon G10. I cannot post any of their results, but I can quite confidently say that none of them were remarkable whatsoever. This waterfall is also a "feature attraction" of one of the more popular locations in Banff National Park and probably sees dozens of people per day throughout the summer, a large proportion of which are more likely than not, carrying very sophisticated cameras. Still I have searched the internet for other photos of this same place and have found none.

The camera has very little to do with it.

September 19, 2010

Marek. Make sure you post your conclusions/experience with the C-268 + GP-S once you have the complete set up. I'd really like to know how it all works out. Thanks.

September 19, 2010

I found Philip Tam's comment quite intriquing. I have always wondered why ISO "L" on my 1Ds is a custom function. Does this mean that the "L" ISO setting, activated using the custom function, it isn't ISO 50 in the same way that ISO 100 is ISO 100? If that is the case, is there an advantage, in terms of image quality, to using ISO 100 and an ND filter rather than using "L"?

Sorry if this is off topic. Maybe I should start a new thread....

September 17, 2010

I am surprised that the difference in size is so minimal.

It looks like the important difference between the GP and GP-S is the placement of the panning knob. On the GP it is right smack in the middle between the drag control and main locking knobs. This would be a problem for traveller type tripods. On the GP-S model they have moved the panning knob so it is located directly below the main locking knob so that one of the legs can fold up to a position between the two main knobs. The other side of the head has no knobs at all so it can easily accomodate the other two tripod legs.

The size of the base being 4mm smaller is probably also the difference between legs that fold 179 degrees back and 180 degrees.

Looks like the GP-S is the latest addition to my wishlist.

September 16, 2010

Acratech's website shows a picture of the GP-S head mounted on the 1 series traveler (GT1541 or similar). I would say they probably desinged the GP-S with that very tripod in mind.

September 15, 2010

I just took another look at the acratech website and they have the GP-s for pre-order for $399 USD. They also show a shot of it attached to a Gitzo 1 series Traveler with legs folded up and it looks like fit is not a problem. If it fits well on a 1 series it will fit even better with a 2 series like the Benro C-268.

September 15, 2010

I found the benphoto website. I was using .com.

They don't have the C-2681. Neither does any of Gnigami's dealers. It isn't on the Gnigami website from what I can see. It is a Travel Angel "Transformer" tripod. Same as the C-268 but the added "1" denotes it as a "transformer" model. Which means that it can transform into a monopod. It is interesting that they claim to be the exclusive distributor for Benro in Canada since Gnigami claims the same thing. I see their prices are lower than Gnigami's dealers but a bit higher than the Chinese ebay sellers.

I think I have the model number schema figured out after all the shopping and research I have been doing over the past few weeks. The Benro website has quite a bit of info but the links don't all seem to work and sometimes you have to try a few different links to find the category of tripod you are looking at. It is also Chinese translated to English so there are some definite language barriers at play. I also found a lot of conflicting information regarding specs. Sometimes it is unclear if the specified height/weight includes the ballhead or not. I think in most cases where a ballhead is included the numbers include the ballhead.

So the model number schema goes like this I think:

C - denotes carbon fibre

A - denotes alloy/aluminum

M8 - I believe refers to the Magnesium frame and the 8 layer carbon fibre tube construction

there are 4 series of tripods denoted by the first numerical digit in the numerical portion of the model number

0 - "0" series. Lightest weight. Smallest diameter tubes. Minimal load capacity. Generally for small DSLR's or compacts

1 - "1" series. Next step up in weight, tube diameter and load capacity. Generally for amateur DSLR's with lighter lenses

2 - "2" series. Next step up. Generally amateur DSLR's with heavier lenses or Pro-DSLR's with average lenses.

3 - "3" series. The beefiest ones for massive lenses on heavy bodies.

The second digit in the numerical part of the model # denotes the tripod type or series. "6" means it is a Travel Angel model with legs that fold back 180 degrees.

The third digit in the numberical part of the model # denotes the number of leg sections.

A "7" denotes 3 section.

An "8" denotes 4 section.

A "9" denotes 5 section.

If there is a fourth digit it will usually be a "1" which denotes that it has the "transformer" capability of becoming a monopod.

So a C-2681 is a Carbon Fibre, "2" series, travel angel, 4 section, with monopod transformer option.

I think that the "transformer" line is a relatively new product and that is why the Canadian distributors/dealers don't have it yet. It is only available in a kit with a B-1 head from the ebay sellers. I don't think the transformer feature is all that special to be honest and would not have picked that other than it wasn't any more expensive than the C-268 and I also needed a ballhead for the short term. So if you are thinking of picking up a ballhead right away, you would be just as well to stick with the C-268 unless you think you would really get a lot of use out of the monopod option. As far as the ballhead base diameter it is the same on both the C-268 and the C-2681 which I believe is 56 mm (fits a 58 mm ballhead nicely).

As far as the Acratech GP-s goes. I don't know when it is expected. I haven't done much research on that yet since I probably won't be shopping for one until next hiking season (blew out my knee this morning playing hockey so hiking season's over for me). I would expect the price to be around the $400 mark, similar to the current GP model.

September 15, 2010

I avoided even thinking about a better tripod for years because many would tell me that I needed a Gitzo in the $900 range. So I kept lugging my Manfrotto 055proB around, assuming that I wouldn't be able to afford a high quality carbon fibre tripod anytime soon. Then I discovered Chinese retailers on ebay selling Benro tripods. I purchased the C-2681 recently and I am more than impressed with the quality. I think in many ways this tripod is superior to the Gitzo model that it is essentially a clone of (2541T). That Gitzo goes for around$900. I paid just under $400 which included a decent ball head, a set of spikes and a very high quality padded carrying case.

So don't count out the Benros. Check out ebay sellers such as KGHobbie.

September 15, 2010

Acratech is soon to release the GP-s ballhead which is identical to the GP but with a smaller base to make it more compatible with "traveller" type tridpods. I can only assume that they are using the Gitzo traveller series as their benchmark. Still if it will fit a 2 series Gitzo Traveller it will very likely fit the Benro C-268 or C-2681 as well. And yes the cool thing about the GP-s is that it has "gimbal-like" action and can be set up for panos without a levelling base. Watch the video at Acratech's website. It is pretty cool. I'll be saving up for one of those soon to replace the B-1.

I couldn't find the benphoto website you referred to (it was a photographer's website that I ended up getting). But check out kghobbie at ebay. Here is the link to their store:

<a href="http://stores.ebay.ca/KG-HOBBIE">http://stores.ebay.ca/KG-HOBBIE</a>

I don't know how comfortable you are with buying from Chinese retailers on ebay but so far I have had really good experiences. They have the C-268 that you are interested in without the ballhead for $333 with free shipping. They can do express shipping for an extra $10. I got mine on the 6th business day (if you don't count the labour day holiday). They are very good with replying to emails and they had the tripod wrapped and at the post office on a Saturday afternoon after getting my confirmed payment on the Friday evening.

September 14, 2010

Can't really help you on the question about the ballheads and clamps.

I am 99% sure however that all Benro tripods come with the padded case.

I assume that you have been speaking to a representative of Gnigami about the Benro tripods. I never spoke to them directly but they supply Vistek and I would assume they set the MSRP for Canada. Vistek was asking $550 for the C-268 kit with the ballhead. They don't have the C-2681 kit that I ended up purchasing. I would assume that you are looking at a similar $$$ figure for the C-268. You can do a lot better on ebay from a number of Chinese retailers. I have purchased photographic equipment from 3 different Chinese ebay sellers over the past 6 months and so far all have been good experiences. You certainly cannot beat the price. I have had one flash trigger crap out on me and I sent it back at a cost of $8 shipping and was sent a replacement immediately. In fact I got it within 10 days, so I don't think they even waited for the defective unit to arrive before shipping me a replacement. They just took it at my word.

I don't know if you have looked at the C-2681, but it is identical to the C-268 with a couple of exceptions. One being that I couldn't seem to find the legs sold without the B-1 head. Seems that it only comes in the kit, which worked for me since I'm not ready just yet to shell out for a better ballhead.

The other main difference is that the C-2681 includes a nifty little feature in that one of the legs has a nice foamy grip and can be unthreaded from the tripod, allowing you to attach the ballhead to the leg and you now have a monopod. I have owned a monopod for the past 4 years or so and only used it a couple of times so this wasn't a huge selling feature but nonetheless a handy feature (now I can sell that dusty old Manfrotto monopod).

I do have one small criticism of the Benro however. The center column rotates even with the clamp tightened as tight as I can make it. With the tension on the ball set to a comfortable level, the tension on the ball is greater than the tension on the center column clamp so if you want to rotate the ball in the socket, the whole centre column rotates. Not a big deal really, and I suppose that as long as the camera rotates to the position you want, what does it matter how it got there? Still I would have liked to have seen a non-rotating column. This will probably be a feature of the next gen Benros of course.

September 14, 2010

Well my Benro C-2681 kit arrived today. Just under $400 cdn. That included $10 express shipping charge.

So far I am totally impressed. I very carefully examined a Gtizo 2541T yesterday at a local camera shop and I honestly cannot say that there is any significant difference in the quality of the Benro. I think the Benro in fact is a better product in a few ways. The biggest difference is in the leg angle locks. A much better design than any other tripods I have looked at or owned including the Gitzos. I think I can actually use these ones without risk of a blood blister.

The B-1 ballhead that came with it is nothing to write home about but I didn't expect much from it anyways. I will most likely replace it soon with the new Acratech GP-s.

The fact that it includes the very high quality padded case AND the spikes is also a major feature to me.

I guess time will be the true test but so far I would classify this as possibly the best value camera gear purchase I have made to date.

September 10, 2010

So I have been at this digital photography thing for the past 5 years or so and more or less getting by with my very basic and limited understanding of digital workflow, file formats, and editing. I have always only shot raw from day 1 and used the various versions of PS Elements since v. 5. I am getting to the point where I think I need to sort out a bit more of a workflow. I am probably also going to move up to PS CS3. You're probably wondering why CS3 and not CS5. Its really just a matter of economics-- a friend is giving me a copy of CS3 no charge. (I'm not ready to spend $700 on the latest greatest)

So my current workflow kinda goes like this:

<ol>

<li>Import raw images into folder named according to shot date</li>

<li>Cull the herd via Photoshop Elements Organizer</li>

<li>Open the raw image in Elements Raw editor</li>

<li>Tweak the raw images (white balance, exposure, recovery slider, clarity, vibrance, saturation, sharpening)</li>

<li>Open image in Elements editor as 16 bit file</li>

<li>Further tweaks (noise reduction, if needed, using Noise Ninja, cropping, unsharp mask)</li>

<li>Save as a TIFF in a new folder called "Work"</li>

<li>"Artistic" touches (burn the edges, colorize, skin softening, various effects, etc.)</li>

<li>Save final image as a TIFF</li>

<li>Size for printing/output</li>

<li>Save as JPEG in a folder called "JPEG"</li>

</ol>

So what's the question?

Recently I was reading a review of the S90 on dpreview.com and the review included a comparison of raw images when processed in ACR vs. DPP. There was a very marked difference in sharpness and contrast that started me wondering if I should give DPP a chance for the raw editing step. Am I getting the wrong idea? The sample images were shown using the default settings for each of course. Will ACR yield the same results with the right settings or does DPP do a better job in some respects?

Also, any suggestions on how I could streamline/improve my workflow? Are there steps above that are perhaps not needed or should I seriously consider adding additional steps?

Oh yeah... the link to the dpreview and sample images:

<a href="http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canons90/page7.asp">http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canons90/page7.asp</a>

Thanks in advance.

September 10, 2010

I will just echo what has been said already.

I carry my 1Ds over my shoulder with a nice padded strap. I can carry it all day and hardly know that it was there. 2 mins around my neck and I need to see a chiro.

Cropped sensor will drastically alter things for you with your current lens kit. Not in a good way.

September 7, 2010

Haha. Just realized this is a Nikon thread and I go rambling about a Canon lens. The point is still the same though.

September 7, 2010

Me too.

The lens hood on my 24-70 f/2.8L is covered in nicks and scratches but the lens itself looks as good as the day I pulled it out of the box. Twice in the past month I have slipped on rocks while hiking with my 1Ds around my neck with the 24-70 mounted (my walk around lens) and both times the front of the lens would have been severely damaged were it not for the hood. Not only does it protect things from striking the front element but provides a "shock absorber" when the front of the camera comes down hard and fast as in a slip and fall type incident.

I remember a pro photographer that came to photograph my house a while ago showed me his 24-70. The front filter threads were "less than round". He told me about how the camera was dropped onto a concrete floor and how he had used a pair of lineman pliers to "more or less" straighten out the filter threads. Needless to say the filter threads no longer served their purpose and to have the lens properly repaired would have been quite costly. Never would have happened if the hood had been on the lens.

A replacement EW-83F hood is about $50. To repair the front element of the lens would be a minimum of $350.

August 30, 2010

Tough call. I only own the 24-70 but have used the 24-105 quite a bit as by brother has loaned me his on a number of occasions.

I personally don't feel that the extra reach makes a huge difference. Especially when it comes to pictures of people. In these cases a step or two forward makes all the difference.

For other subjects, more distant, the extra reach will certainly make a bit of a difference but then again, thats what the 70-200 in your bag is for.

The extra stop of the 2.8 is invaluable in low light. No image stabilizer out there will slow down your 3 year old.

One of the things that I really like about the 24-70 over the 24-105, and this may seem like a very minor thing, is the hood on the 24-70. It really does a good job of protecting the front lens element. Not only from bumps and scrapes, but also from light rain. I do a lot of backpacking/hiking and I don't carry my camera in a case of any kind. The hood on the 24-70 therefore goes a long way from keeping tree branches and other things that could damage the front of the lens/filter from getting anywhere near it.

The only real downside that I myself see with the 24-70 is the weight. It is something I can overlook though given its other strengths.

August 29, 2010

haha. What you haven't seen the MkIV yet?? Good call. I meant MkIII.

August 25, 2010

This is all very good feedback. Thank you all.

I had a chat with a couple of the sales staff at my local Vistek where they sell both Gitzo and Benro tripods. They both said that they sell 10 to 1, Benro tripods vs all other brands combined. I'm sure that number is a bit inflated but needless to say they sell a lot of them. They also said they have never seen one come back. They have on the other hand seen lots of Gitzos come in for repairs/parts. Interesting.

Joseph and Peter, I'm sold on the twist locks. I hear what you are saying about the hazards with the lever locks. I guess I just have always be wary of twist lock devices because other pieces of equipment/tools that I have used/owned (not all photography related) that employ a twist lock coupling usually fail. I suppose they are not all manufactured to the same standards as a carbon fibre tripod though and perhaps its is just a matter of good maintenance too.

Regarding the 4 section leg diameter (19 mm) I too was a bit skeptical. I actually took a look at a Gitzo 1550T (5 section) at a local shop last week and when I saw the pencil thin 5th sections I chuckled to myself a bit. Then I set it up and put a 1Ds mkIV with a 70-200 2.8 IS on it and it was rock solid. I was blown away in fact at how sturdy the thing was. I don't have direct experience with the C-268 as I haven't had a chance to handle one, but the A-269 (alloy 5-section) that I handled at Vistek was surprisingly stable as well with it's 16mm 5th sections. I can only assume that the carbon fibre C-268 4 section with it 19mm 4th section will be quite a bit more stable.

Just a note to Peter: I believe that he C-268M8 is actually a clone of the Gitzo 2540T, not the 1541T.

So it looks like I have found the right tripod. Now just have to find the right ebay seller....

August 24, 2010

Like Marek from another thread in this forum, I am trying to decide between a couple of tripod options. I have been using an 055PROB for the past 6 years or so and it has done the job just fine, but I need something more compact and lighter weight since I have started to do a lot of backpacking.

I would love to drop $850 on a Gitzo 2540T and another $450 on an Arca Swiss ball head, but my wife would divorce me.

These Benro C-268 with the B-1 ball head kits on ebay for $370 sure are tempting. I have even checked out the C-269 with B-1 at my local Vistek and there are several things I am quite impressed by, even over the Gitzo.

<ol>

<li>Lever leg locks. They are what I'm used to. They are no fuss and will stand up much longer. I don't know how the Gitzo twist ones stand up long term, but they seem like an annoyance to me and the weakest link in the whole system. Even when I play with them in the store I have found that sometimes I think I have them all locked in, set the thing on the ground to find out that I missed one or two. With the lever locks, its obvious if they are locked or not.</li>

<li>The leg angle locking system on the Benro is the slickest I have seen on any tripod regardless of brand.</li>

<li>Comes with a case! What a concept!</li>

</ol>

I don't pretend to imagine that I will still be using the Benro in 10 years, but what pieces of my current kit will I still be using? Seriously? Maybe a few of my L lenses, but thats it. There will always be a reason to upgrade and if I have to buy 3 of them in the space of 10 years I have still spent less than the Gitzo/Arca Swiss combo.

So my question is:

Does anyone in the forum actually own the C-268 B-1 combo and if so how has it performed and how long have you been using it?

August 19, 2010

1) P-size (85mm) will not be big enough for your purposes. My 1-slot "wide-angle" P-series holder vignettes at anything wider than 28mm on my 24-70 f/2.8L on my full frame 1Ds. My 2 slot P-series holder vignettes at 35mm and wider. I am going to be adding the 17-40 f/4L to my kit and plan on selling my P-series filters and accessories as I realize they will be useless with that lens. I plan on upgrading to a set of 100mm filters (hopefully those will be large enough - Can anyone else comment on this? Do I need to go bigger than 100mm?)

2) ditto what Joseph said.

3) ditto...

4) ditto...

5) definitely get a set of 3 to start with. 1,2, & 3 stop. Sounds like most of your shooting is wide angle so start with soft transition.

6) I could not justify the cost of the Singh Ray filters (or Lee for that matter). But also could not be satisfied with Cokin junk. I purchased Hi-Tech from <a href="http://www.teamworkphoto.co.uk">www.teamworkphoto.co.uk</a> and couldn't be happier. They sell them in nice kits and the prices are incredible. (at least 1/3 or better what you would pay for comparable Singh Ray stuff). The Hi-Tech filters have no color cast, are made from the same optical resin and come in the sizes and shapes to work with any holder type you might have.

June 9, 2010

Edit: Hitech doesn't make 120mm filters. I meant 150mm. So to repose the question:

Will the 100mm system work with the 17-40 or should I be looking at the 150mm set up?

June 9, 2010

Has anyone used the Hitech Mk4 100mm wide angle 2 slot filter holder with the 17-40 f/4L? I had been using Hitech 85mm filters with some Cokin holders on my 24-70 f/2.8L and noticing some vignetting at the wide end. I am going to be purchasing the 17-40 soon and know that I will need to change up my filter system as well. I just wonder if 100mm is big enough or if I should be looking at the 120mm filters.

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Posts posted by gregcoad