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torin_olsen

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Posts posted by torin_olsen

  1. <p>Lindsey,</p>

    <p>Everyone so far has offered great advice. Particularly Kelby Training. What really worked for me though was watching a tutorial put out by Luminous Landscape. <a href="http://luminous-landscape.com/videos/LR2.shtml">http://luminous-landscape.com/videos/LR2.shtml</a> Right now they only have the LR2 version, but it's an amazing, in-depth look at Lightroom's features. And the LR3 version is forthcoming. Purchasing the training was some of the best $$$ I ever spent.<br>

    They videos are broken down by feature set allowing you to watch what you need. I was a lot like you. A photoshop user who didn't understand LR enough to dive in head first. After Michael Reichmann's tutorial, I was kicking myself for not taking the plunge sooner...</p>

    <p>~Torin</p>

  2. <p>I got the 3880 right before Thanksgiving and LOVE it. I've got a photo show coming up in February so I've been prepping shots for that. The prints look great. If you can't find the printer, try mpex.com. I ordered from them on the Monday before Thanksgiving and had it Tuesday afternoon (with free shipping no less!).</p>

    <p>For a "hands-on" review from a fine art printer: <a href="http://luminous-landscape.com/reviews/printers/3880.shtml">http://luminous-landscape.com/reviews/printers/3880.shtml</a> </p>

  3. <p>I assume from your post that the sole problem is shutter noise bleeding over onto the video. In addition it appears that you are in a fixed location where it is impossible to get away from the video camera?</p>

    <p>As a Canonista, I'm not completely familiar with what capabilities your D300 has, but my 50D has a silent shooting mode. AF doesn't work and it's best used when on a tripod with non-moving subjects, but it's VERY quiet. From what I understand, the "quiet" mode the D300 has requires you to hold down the shutter release after a shot in order to keep the shutter/mirror from re-cocking. So you may be able to take a shot and wait for a noisy portion to release. Additional, you can physically move the camera to somewhere where the sound will be lessened and then release.</p>

    <p>If you're stuck right with the videographer, you might want to see if you can get a piece of sound insulation/baffling and put it directly between you and the video camera mic. Obviously sound isn't strictly linear like light, but it might lessen the problematic noises.</p>

    <p>Best advice however is to simply move to another location...</p>

  4. <p>I took this while attending a friend's wedding this weekend. This was after the ceremony and formal portraits in the church's sanctuary. The couple paused for a photo/kiss in the doors between the sanctuary and narthex. The main church doors were open giving a nice bounce to the natural light off of the floor of the narthex. I love the spontaneous fist pump. =D</p>

    <p>50D + 70-200. f/4.5, 1/320, ISO800 @ 75mm.</p><div>00UYW7-174801584.jpg.7968505269fbf9d9dc65a2b917e2bb0c.jpg</div>

  5. <p>Noticed a possible inconsistency. In the wedding packages page some packages are marked "copyright release" and some "edited image rights to reprint are yours". You might want to clearly explain what the difference is.<br>

    My comment is be careful of the wording of the packages with "copyright release". That can be interpreted as giving up your rights to the image. Perfect if that's what you intend, but may lead to misunderstandings otherwise. There are many threads on photo.net about copyright wording so I'd search and find what might work best for you.<br>

    Loved the site and images!</p>

  6. <p>Lightroom + CS2. Dragged my feet on lightroom initially, but I'd never want to do without it now. If you go the LR2 route, you can really unlock the program's potential with a tutorial such as the one on Luminous Landscape (http://store.luminous-landscape.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=203) or one by Kelby. FWIW, I've used Lightroom extensively and have yet to encounter the "bugs" or "crashes" at all.</p>
  7. <p>NK Guy-- Thats one of the first things I checked. As far as I can tell it's in all the way.</p>

    <p>Nadine-- I think you're right. The flash is 3 years old and seen some significant use. I was just hoping against hope for a miracle cure... =D</p>

  8. <p>Hi all,</p>

    <p>At a recent wedding I happily shooting along with my 580ex on my 50D when I noticed the settings on the status panel of the 580ex were blinking and I was unable to change the flash settings (I was on Manual). Thinking my batteries were low, I swapped them with the same result. Except there was a whirring sound that lasted for a few seconds. When the whirring sound stopped, I was unable to change the camera settings.</p>

    <p>After some puzzlement, I determined that the zoom head was stuck at maximum zoom. The rest of the flash seemed to work. Although in order to change settings I had to turn off then turn on the flash and quickly alter the settings before the flash's internal check finished at which time the settings became locked (until I turned off/turned on again).</p>

    <p>Is there a quick fix for this that I somehow missed? Anyone have any idea if it would be worthwhile (or how much it might cost) to send to Canon for repairs? If not, I can just use it as a manual flash fully zoomed 100% of the time... I have a 580ex2, but obviously I'd like a fully functional 580ex as well if possible.</p>

    <p>Thanks!</p>

    <p>Torin</p>

  9. <p>Heath,<br>

    First and foremost I'm a classical musician and deal with carpal tunnel/tendonitis on a regular basis (exacerbated by all the computer/camera use). You don't say where the pain/discomfort is located. (From the activities mentioned, I'm assuming the top of the wrist when viewed with the palm facing upwards)</p>

    <p>My suggestions:<br>

    1. Get hand straps for the cameras you use. Some require a battery grip, but they REALLY help distribute the weight better for me. You may also want to make more use of the left hand/arm for carrying things when schlepping gear around. Less strain on the right wrist/arm.</p>

    <p>2. Look into wrist/arm repetitive motion injuries and/or see a specialist. I've found that there are some velcro wrist straps that provide good support as well as tennis-elbow braces that can help relax and take tension out of the wrist. (http://banditelbowbrace.com/)</p>

    <p>3. Examine your computer technique. Make sure you're not putting undue stress on your wrists by the angles at which you work. Check out Alexander Technique to become more aware of your body and it's tendencies. (http://www.alexandertechnique.com/)</p>

    <p>4. Check out the Wacom tablets to use for photo editing on your computer. They orient your hands differently and change the repetitive type motion to something different. Might fix some bad repetitive motion habits.</p>

    <p>5. Finally, REST!! This can be the most important part. Make sure you're taking breaks and not overusing your wrist. Stretching it out can also be extremely helpful.</p>

    <p>Hope that helps!<br>

    ~Torin</p>

  10. <p>Hi all,</p>

    <p>At a wedding today my 580ex fell to the pavement and the AF assist red translucent cover cracked and fell off. Fortunately the flash is still completely functional and WASN'T attached to my camera when it met the pavement.</p>

    <p>My question is two-fold. What is the part name/number and where can I purchase another?</p>

    <p>Thanks!<br>

    ~Torin</p>

  11. <p>I don't know if you have a grip on your 400D, but I've found that a wrist strap helps a lot when using either the 100-400 or 70-200 f/2.8 IS on my 50D for extended periods of time. Unless I'm doing long exposures, I also find my monopod much more useful than my tripod...</p>

    <p>As the others said, it's very hand-holdable and fun to use. Enjoy!</p>

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