daniel_mitschke
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Posts posted by daniel_mitschke
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No, as them name indicates this is a portrait-only film.
If you use it on other subjects your camera will explode.
;)
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<p>I just like the concept of the 3F-workflow.<br>
And if you let scan (like many do) you almost have no other choice.</p>
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<p>Here is another example comparing 3F-scans and direct TIF-scans.<br>
<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7029/6788864427_255bf066aa_o.jpg" alt="" /><br>
Fullsize: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7029/6788864427_255bf066aa_o.jpg</p>
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<p>I found the "solution" and we were both right:<br /> If you scan directly to tif then USM = -120 will turn sharpening off.<br /> But if you scan as 3F a value of 120 is always applied (resulting in USM = 0).<br /> So saving a 3F as tif with USM = -120 will actually blur the pre-sharpened scan and you are not able to turn sharping off as with the direct to tif scans.</p>
<p>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/imaconusers/message/4697</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Hi, I asked Hasselblad support about Imacon sharpening and got the response below. Note that different settings are needed for Tiff and 3f scans if no sharpening is wanted. Fred Bjorksten Yes that is correct. If you don’t want to add sharpness to your Tiff scan (made from a preview scan) UMS must be set to -120 and the check box must be checked.<br /><br />A value of 120 USM will always be applied to 3f scans. If you don’t want to add any extra USM to your 3f scans USM must be set to 0 and the check box checked.<br /><br />Best regards,<br /><br />Anne-Marie<br />Hasselblad Technical Support<br />www.hasselblad.com</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I also just played around a bit and it seems like using USM=-60 on 3F-scans comes pretty close to using USM=-120 on tif-scans. -120 on 3F-scans makes them look to blurry.</p>
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<p>The 3F files are just ordinary 16bit tif-files (with some more meta data than a "normal" tif).<br /> I suppose they are not corrected in any kind but of course these files could already have some sort of USM applied, but changing the value to -120 would then mean to alter (blur) the file and not to switch it off.</p>
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<p>Please have a look here.<br /> The raw scanner data (3F) looks pretty much the same like USM=0 in Flexcolor.</p>
<p><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7001/6784306381_a52720ea0d_o.jpg" alt="" width="849" height="1542" /><br>
Fullsize Link: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7001/6784306381_a52720ea0d_o.jpg</p>
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<p>I have to questions regarding the Flexcolor Software.</p>
<p>1. The myth of the -120 USM:<br>
I think setting USM to -120 does not switch USM off, instead it's just blurring the scan a bit.<br>
You can easily check this if you open a 3F-file in photoshop directly (either via the 3F-plugin or renaming the 3F-file to .tif).<br>
What you will see IS the raw data (which is just a 16bit tif-file) and you will see that the sharpness is identical to just having set USM to "0".</p>
<p>2. The canned profiles:<br>
These differ mostly in the saturation setting (most have +15), the gradiation curve (some of them) and the histogram.<br>
If you let aside the first two (saturation and gradiation) and press the auto-button they become pretty much useless. So what's the point of them? Just to show a quick preview?<br>
Having different setting in the color correction tab would be more sense, but that isn't the case.</p>
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<p>Yeah I know, it's quite a jump.<br>
Already thought about the Coolscan 9000, but there are quite a lot of disadvantages:<br>
- aren't produced anymore<br>
- prices are double what they used to be (totally crazy - about 5.500€ for a new one here in Germany)<br>
- "only" 4000dpi (so no step up for 35mm film which I still shot a lot)<br>
- kind of flimsy film holders (or the need to use glasplates for curled negatives)<br>
- etc...<br /><br /><br>
The X1 would cost me about 6000€ (effectively - after taxes), so this might be the best option.<br>
The only thing I would like to know is how much the difference between the X1 and X5 is regarding grain structure.</p>
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<p>I'm about to upgrade my Coolscan V and Epson V750 to a Hasselblad Flextight Scanner.<br>
If money was no object I would go straight for the X5, but unfortunately money IS an object, so I might go with the X1.<br>
My question is, what is the real world difference between the X1 and the X5 (batch scanning aside)?<br />Especially the light diffusor in the X5. Are the scans so much different or are there only subtle differences?<br>
I'm a bit biased because the LED light source in my coolscan makes even Portra 400 (35mm) almost unusable.<br />I know that the X1 will treat the grain a bit harsher than the X5, but is it as bad as with the coolscans? </p>
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<p>Looks more like purple fringing and you even get this with a noctilux or summilux.<br>
So nothing to worry here. And not really a situation where you want to shoot wide open either.</p>
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<p>Is there any way to disassemble the housing on the side of the shutter button?</p>
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<p>I have a Pentax 6x7 (with mirror lockup) that I'm about to sell.<br>
While checking the basic functionality I noticed that one has to press the shutter button really hard.<br />Is this normal behavior on this camera? If not, can it be repaired by myself?<br>
thanks for the help</p>
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<p>should already be out.<br>
at least I just bought some in 120 fomat.</p>
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<p>try kodak gold 100.</p>
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Even the film leicas with almost no electronics are about a few thousand dollars.
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there is no expiration. the demoversion puts watermarks on the image.
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<p>They told this before, but every country answers something different.<br>
so nothing to worry, as long as FUJI Japan says it's still in production.</p>
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<p>It's not their decision - it's the decision of FUJI USA.<br>
If you have a look at the thread I posted the link to you can find a link to an official document on the FUJI JAPAN website that states what films are discontinued and Reala is only discontinued in some package-version (e.g. 24 shots per roll).</p>
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<p>Some countries stopped to import it from Fuji Headquarter in Japan.<br>
But it's still produced and still can be imported from other countries.<br>
have a look here: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum172/73536-interesting-news-about-fujicolor-pro.html</p>
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<p>Most likely it's just imported from different countries.</p>
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<p>Contax T3</p>
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<p>I have an print from Kodak TriX 35mm Negative in 1,5 x 1m.<br>
Looks great!!</p>
<p>have a look at these photos by Ryan McGinley. all of them were shot on a Leica R8 or Yashica T4.<br>
Check wikipedia if you don't know who he is.</p>
<p>P.S. the secret is: DO NOT SCAN AND PRINT!!! DO a CHEMICAL ONLY enlargment.</p>
only mp being made?
in Leica and Rangefinders
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