howard_m

<p>another slight possibility is a buggy display driver or using/not-using something like OpenGL features.</p>

<p>that's unfortunate. Many Fuji lenses have pretty weak detents between 'A' and the f/ ring.</p>

<p>I dont think an iMac of that vintage is capable of acting as 'just a display' or via some external graphics card.</p>

<p>As you can imagine, iMac video cards arent commodity items so they tend to be fairly expensive parts. Still, scouting around online Mac parts dealers should give you an idea of the part.</p>

<p>definitely marginal but I wouldnt want to subject anyone to longterm PS on a MBA usage, esp for a beginner.<br>

How 'mechanical' are you? They're not that hard to work on w/ tools and mind.<br>

take a look at 2012-13 refurbs.</p>

<p>i have an old PPC Mac that still sorta works. I'll try to find time over the weekend if you are unsuccessful.</p>

<p>You should REALLY be seeking out a tax accountant for this.</p>

<p>if you look for 'spectrumviz.jar', it's a spectral database of 700+ papers and you can get a feel for what their base color (a & b near zero) and if they have OBAs (a noticeable bump down in the blue region of the spectrum).</p>

<p>You'd really have to check the various mfgr websites. They almost always indicate whether a certain paper does/does not contain OBA's.<br /> I usually get my papers from BH. It's one day shipping, no tax, no shipping, prices as good or better than most others.<br>

<br /> Don't bother w/ the Harman papers. All of them (except Gloss Baryta) as scheduled to go out of production this year.<br>

I think lexjet or itsupplies has OEM and their own sample packs. Hahnemule probably has the widest range but they are probably more $$ than you want to spend. Canson Rag Photographique is awesome too.</p>

<p>I dont know as I've never used it.<br>

Epson HPB (Hot Press Bright) is basically my go-to matte if I dont want a lot of texture. Their 'Natural' is too warm for me in general.<br>

<br />You may want to pick up a matte 'sample pack' or 2 from a some mfgr's.</p>

<p>how about Ultra Prem. Presentation Matte or the next step up is the Hot Press (which is really really nice for a smooth matte).</p>

<p>you'll need fast shutter speed on the order of 1000 or 2000 (or more). That dictates what will probably be a pretty high ISO (can you set AutoISO ?). Also, that lens is probably more 'consumery' and as such probably doesn't have a very fast maximum aperture. Try it all out but if you're really looking for the best bet, you may want to rent a fast(er) lens (does Canon make something like a 200/2) ?</p>

<p>you should do a custom white balance in the camera (whatever you own, if it's decent, it should allow that).<br>

What exactly does 'messed around w/ my settings' mean? There's no usable information there.</p>

<p>Mirrorless has gotten really good in the last 12-18 months and frankly, I can carry multiple Fuji X bodies and lenses for the same bulk as 1 Nikon & lens.<br>

Have you asked these 2 shooters 'why' ? I'm sure they'd be happy to pontificate on it.<br>

<br />Which club (I'm also in New England/Boston) ?</p>

<p>these days, it's a Fuji XT10 or XT2, 18-55, 14 and maybe the 55-200 if I think I will need it, all in small ApeCase bag. Still lighter and smaller than my Nikon kit w/ just one lens.</p>

<p>Oh. Never heard or saw of such a configuration. <br>

I dont think I personally would like that kind of setup but if it works for you, good luck.</p>

<p>People seem to like it as an incremental improvement over the 38xx between roll support and newer inkset.<br>

They dont seem to like the extra $200 Epson wants for the roll adapter, smaller starter carts and perhaps some of teh fine-art paper handling (via the front).<br>

After owning a 3800 and now a 3880, I think I will try the Canon 1000 when the 3880 decides to pack it in, mostly due to ink switching and failure of the valve.</p>

<p>If I'm understanding you, it may be one of these (from the Rotation180 series)</p>

<p>http://www.mindshiftgear.com/pages/backpacks</p>

<p>well, yea, a wider angle lens (like maybe 35mm) or stepping farther back if possible.<br>

It'd be very helpful to know what camera you're using and what size sensor it has.</p>

<p>Andrew,</p>

<p>Here's the spectral data (and then a lot more).</p>

<p>https://res.cloudinary.com/soraa/image/upload/v1451091975/product_specs/par30s/00861/lm79.pdf</p>

<p>thanks. always interesting to see that sort of thing. the glass manufacture looks sort of 'primitive'.</p>

<p>And they would do well to get rid of the music soundtrack.</p>

<p>I do not think the issue is that the file is/is-not compressed, my read of it is that it is compressed but that the OS provided decompressor wont work. There are a number of other decompress programs out there.<br>

The decompressor will simply flag/tell you if it doesn't find a valid compressed file and stop, it wont cause additional damage. You can use the command line 'file' command to see if it is compressed (although that wont test integrity).</p>

<p>That is my read of it also.</p>

<p>Take a read of this:<br>

https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom/kb/extract-large-catalog-backup-macOS.html</p>

<p>This is not an 'OS' issue. OSX has been full 64bit for a long time. That doesn't mean all the utilities (aka zip/unzip) are 64bit friendly, compression utils are notorious for this as many of them effectively pre-date 64bit</p>

<p>Charles, I'm well aware of the 'limitations' of posting a .cr2. I personally wasn't that interested in viewing it but rather pulling it into a decent raw converter and processing it vs. just 'viewing' it so I pretty much wanted a link to the .cr2 via Dropbox, OneDrive, some-cloud-method.</p>