morthcam

Oops, thanks Matthew, I did say it backwards, shutter-priority it is.

 

Walter makes a very good point about the Stylus Epic -- that is a sweet 35mm lens, and the auto-everything works remarkably well. More pocketable than the RC (love the sliding cover design), if you can live with no manual override it's a great choice too.

Olympus RC35 is aperture priority, not full auto, but is a great little camera that meets all your requirements other than full auto.

Poetry as always.

A very well written and moving article by a former photo journalist turned

wedding photographer <a

href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/08/29/AR2007082902031.html?hpid=moreheadlines"

target="_blank">here</a>.

"Danny Best" from BestBuy? You wouldn't live under a bridge, would you?

That was my feedback -- I sold him my M2, it was a pleasant transaction, no problems. Nothing really to add to that, hope he's okay and it all works out for you.

A 24mm on a 30D is a moderate wide-angle, equivalent to a 38mm or so field of view on a full-frame camera. Even the 20mm is equivalent to a 32mm full-frame field of view. To do interiors you'll probably want wider, one of the digital-only zooms -- Canon has a 10-22mm, Tokina has a 12-24 that gets good reviews, all the usual third-party suspects have their own version.

Much better.<div></div>

Hmm, that didn't work.....<div></div>

I don't know that these show off the lens' capabilities -- mine has some sort of etching between the elements, not fungus, but all it seems to do is enhance the "Leica glow" (i.e., no sun in the frame please).

Dolland was the name of a family that made optical and scientific instruments in England. <p>

 

<a href=http://www.vauxhallsociety.org.uk/Dollond.html>see here</a><br>

<a href=http://www.arm.ac.uk/history/instruments/Dollond-sextant.html>and here</a><P>

 

Dolland and Co. made cameras and accessories: <P>

 

<a href=http://www.ephotozine.com/equipment/manuals/Dollond-and-Co/729>here</a><br>

<a href=http://www.testreports.co.uk/photography/ap/test-reports/dollond-co-test-reports.html>here</a><P>

 

And they later merged with another company to become a chain of optician shops in Europe.<P>

 

<a href=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Dollond>here</a><br>

<a href=http://www.danda.co.uk/opticians/about_us/history.asp>last one</a>

If you don't mind my saying so, you don't quite understand how the Stofen works -- you say there's no ceiling to bounce off of (true), but the Stofen works by bouncing. It bounces off of walls and ceiling, creating a "softer" light because the source is all spread out. The fact that the light is passing through the frosted plastic does not "soften" it, it's the multiple sources (walls and ceiling) of light that falls on the subject that softens the light.

 

Outside, even if you crank up a high-powered flash, you're still not getting any "softening" of the light since your light source is the flash -- still a point source of light, even with the Stofen.

 

Don't get me wrong, I love the Stofen, it's great in the right conditions. But it's a common misperception that the frosted plastic somehow "softens" the light, and that just isn't so, a point source of light is a point source of light. It's the bouncing that works.

Thanks, everyone. And I can now report from personal experience, the ES-65 hood for the original 50mm f1.8 works on the 28mm 2.8 without any vignetting on a 1.6 crop camera.

Check out the <a href="http://www.photo.net/neighbor/opc.tcl?category_id=0" target="_blank">Photo.net Neighbor Section</a> before you buy -- B&H may not look like the cheapest, and in the end it may not be the absolute cheapest, but you don't have to worry about getting scammed from B&H.

See what <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=helpcenter.jsp&A=getpage&Q=HelpCenter/USGrey.jsp" target="_blank">B&H has to say</a> on the topic.

Just found the answer to my question in another thread -- Puppy Face says it fits.

Based on the nomenclature, I would think that the ET-65 hood (for the

85mm,100mm, and other lenses) would fit on the original 50mm 1.8, which takes

the ES-65 hood. That would make a lot of sense on a 1.6 crop camera -- can

anyone confirm that this fits? I've seen ET-65II hoods; is II different from I?

Nope, there was no county called "South Korea" in 1945.

You can also check out the feedback at Photo.net at the <a href="http://www.photo.net/neighbor/opc.tcl?category_id=0" target="_blank">Neighbor Section</a>

If budget is a concern (it always is for me), how about a used 70-200 f4L? The non-IS ones go for under $500 on the used market -- there's one on photo.net classifieds now (usual caveat, I do not know the seller, his reputation, or the state of the lens).

I was going to answer, but there's not much to add to what Beau wrote.

Sorry Chris, that's what you said, I need more coffee.

The Tamron 17-50 also will not work with a full-frame camera.

And another... it's a nice lens.<div></div>

I don't think this was wide open, but it was a fairly large aperture.<div></div>