morthcam

Dan

 

They're yours -- I'm taking the lazy way out and giving them away together. Send me your address whenever convenient and I'll send them on their way. Thanks for helping me recycle my stuff!

I sold off my Leica iiic years ago and went digital. But I'm cleaning the closet and found 2 cable release adapters; you need these to work a regular cable release on the iiic (and probably most of the screwmounts, but don't quote me on that). If you're in the US and want them, send me a message at morthcam58 at gmail dot com and they're yours. I'm not going to bother taking a picture of them, here's what they look like. They're free, no returns, refunds, international or overnight shipping; first come first serve.

 

Thanks

<p>Agree with David, the touch screen on the OM-D is definitely not primary. Using it to focus and take the picture is fun, but not something I'll actually use very often (if ever). But using it to make menu selections without having to scroll through all the options by using a dial is very nice. I've found it to be responsive. No signs of finickyness (is that right?) yet, but I've only had it a couple of weeks. </p>

<p>Don't know what happened to mine, but it stopped focusing close. Sent it in, somehow an internal barrel had gotten bent, I wasn't aware of any drops. They fixed it -- cheaper than buying a new one (and cheaper than buying a working used one on ebay too).<br>

<br>

Sh*t happens in life, this is pretty low on the bad life events scale. Send it in, pay the man, and move on.</p>

<p><em>I'll try CF4 and see how that works, but wouldn't I be changing the AE lock to AF ?</em><br>

<em><br /></em><br>

CF4 has multiple options, the first (what Bradford said) puts the exposure lock on the shutter and AF lock on the back button. <em><br /></em></p>

<p><em>The 5D does not have a AF button that I know off so I would have to use the shutter to re-focus again.</em><br>

<em><br /></em><br>

Try CF4 and back button focus<em><br /></em></p>

<p>You think you've got problems, my 5D (first model) is so antiquated it deletes pictures I've already taken!</p>

<p>Using aperture priority seems to work for some people, but I've not had good experiences. I use some OM lenses on my 5D -- it's supposed to work in aperture priority, if you set the aperture on the lens the camera sets the correct shutter speed, but that hasn't worked for me. When I change the aperture one stop at a time, the shutter does not shift one stop the other direction, so by the time I'm stopped down I'm really underexposing. I find that if I meter with the OM lens wide-open, that's a good exposure value, then I set it on manual and figure in my head the appropriate aperture/shutter combination. And I use the histogram a lot.<br>

With alt lenses, YMMV a lot. </p>

 

<p>I shot high school musicals for a few years, the dress rehearsal is definitely the way to go. That way you also have a couple of chances to get the shot if you see a really good shot but don't get it the first time, you're ready the next time they do that scene. If you can do the dress rehearsal, even a 50 can work well on a crop camera, 85 is plenty long enough. Doing the dress rehearsal also means you can have pictures printed and ready for sale at the show. <br>

If you absolutely can't do the dress rehearsal, then the 135 from the back of the auditorium can work well. An f2.8 or faster lens is required, I tried my 70-200 f4 on a monopod but most of those pics really sucked. Here's a shot with the 135L f2.0, some cropping, on a 30D -- the 8x10 looked great.</p><div></div>

<p>All we can do is guess until you post some examples.</p>

<p>Maybe you should be just a little bit honest and tell us that this is something you're selling, and not just a "hey guys, what do you think of this?" post. Just a thought.</p>

<p>It may go for GBP 750 in England, but in the US I'm seeing most of the body-only 5D's going for $800-$900 on ebay. And since an estimate is just that -- only an estimate -- I would think you're going to have a hard time getting more than a few hundred for this camera. </p>

<p>Oops, caption above should read "21mm"</p>

<p>There are no reported issues of OM lenses not working on Canon EOS cameras I'm aware of. I've been shooting OM 21 3.5, 24 2.8, and 200 f4.5 lenses on my 5D without problems. As Michael Linn said, DOF if pretty forgiving on the 21mm. The Oly 21 gets very good reviews.<br>

I personally enjoy the slow, deliberate nature of using the OM lenses when I'm doing landscapes. Makes me slow down and really think about exposure and composition. If I'm taking pictures that require more speed, I don't use MF lenses.<br>

More information at <a href="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/board/55">Fred Miranda</a></p><div></div>

<p>You should see the 200-400 for that body....</p>

<p>Sorry Hannah, I got confused, you're not the original poster, never mind!</p>

<p>Hannah, before you go chasing after any Kelby actions, you should really post some pictures here with the EXIF data so that the very knowledgeable, helpful PN members can give you some advice. Nothing personal, but most times when people complain about not taking sharp pictures it's something they're doing wrong, not their equipment. You need to make sure that your technique is good before you start looking at software and equipment changes.</p>

<p>I usually blunder my way through software and learn how to use it in a half-assed manner through trial and error. That is totally the WRONG thing to do with Lightroom; how you set up your catalog(s) and deal with the organization of the pictures is critical to making Lightroom work for you. Fortunately for me, I took a class sponsored by the local camera store (Penn Camera in DC) and learned a lot about how to do it right. </p>

<p>Before you start importing pictures and getting into Lightroom I'd strongly advise a class -- either a formal class like I took or a good video. I don't have any to recommend, the link in the first answer looks really interesting and something I'm going to check out. But I wouldn't try to do this without some sort of education first.</p>

<p>My understanding is that it's remotely possible you could have corrupted some of the files on the card in a worst-case scenario, but if so it would be immediately obvious when you tried to view the files. No way you could have damaged the camera.</p>

<p>Have you checked the viewfinder diopter setting?</p>

<p>Maybe it's just me, but I have a hard time with the phrase "backpacking trip" and "135L f2.0" in the same sentence. Since you already have a couple of Voigtlanders, have you considered an alt 135 that might be a little (or a lot) smaller? The Zuiko 135 3.5 is tiny and has a great reputation; yeah, kind of slow. There are a lot of 2.8's out there -- I know that manual focusing a 135 is a lot different from a 40, but it's something to consider.</p>

<p>Craig:<br>

I'm just starting to dabble with alt lenses, that is a fantastic review of the chipped adapters and how they affect metering -- very helpful, thank you for taking the time to post such a thorough and clear answer!</p>

<p>It is there on the 30D, mine got stuck and I had to send it in, I couldn't get it unstuck. And since the 5D has no pop-up flash, well, there wouldn't be much point?</p>

<p>Throw away the wide angle converter.</p>

<p>Sounds like you have what you need -- 18-55 should cover most of your needs (no lens can cover all of them). Don't obsess over equipment like everyone one else here does, take that lens and make pictures with it. You don't need another lens.</p>

<p><a href="00Y4Uv"> January 21 2011</a></p>